USB mouse and keyboard keep disabling [tried almost everything!]

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Echo-80

Echo-80

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Jan 25, 2015
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I've tried almost everything! Using different keyboards, trying different USB ports, tried 3.0 USB ports, turned off the feature that shuts down the USB ports to save power, deleted unknow USBs in the USB essentials, uninstalling my mouse and keyboard drivers in divices and even searched my computer for viruses or problems. Nothing came up and it's been happening for the past month or so. Please help!


Edit:
System spects

- Processor: Intel(R) Core(TM) i5-2320 CPU @ 3.00GHz
- L1 cache: 256 KB L2 cache: 1024 KB
- Operating System: Windows 7 (64bit)
- Video Card: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 770 2GB
- Power Supply: 800w
- Mode: Display 1: 1920x1080 (32 bit) (60hz) Display 2: 1280 x 1024 (32 bit) (60 Hz)
- Memory: 8192 MB
- Motherboard: ASUSTeK Cmputer INC. CM6630_CM6730_CM6830.
- Total Hard Drive space: 1969524 MB
- Speed: 2993 Mhz
- Network Speed: D: 25 Mbps U: 8 Mbps
- DirectX Version: DirectX 11

I have both USB 2.0 and 3.0 and I do not have USB splitters or add-ons, they are all on board USBs and I am the administrator of my computer.

It happens when I'm just on my computer in general. Be that browsing the web or playing games on steam.

Side note: The lazer on my mouse is still on but the lights for num lock and so on are not on when they both disconnect. When they are plugged into the 2.0 there is no 'disconnect' sound that plays but when they are plugged into the 3.0 they toy with me by disconnecting 'with the noise' but then reconnecting a bit later and after a while they just fully disconnect. All the other USB's work though like my iPod charger and printer USB, it just disconnects my Mouse and Keyboard on multiple USB's. (Like I said, I also tried another brand new keyboard and still nothing)

I also noticed that they turn back on when I close my computer in the 'logging off' screen which means it has to be a setting in my user somehow which doesn't make sense because I'm pretty sure I haven't fitted around with those setting since I got them.

Please help!

- Jack
 
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You say you've tried diff USB ports, including 3.0 I assume these are all 'onboard', no 'add-in cards for usb ports?' meaning we need to find out if it's hardware or software that is your problem. I recently had a nice duo-core fry my 'nice' USB Keyboard by pluggin it in, due to an occasional 'usb overcurrent' error on the pc.

So, what makes them kick out, is it completely random? Or when you are online, or gaming, or after some 'time'.

I'm guessing you could boot into BIOS with a USB keyboard, and it'll work all day, If not, then your problem is hardware, otherwise your problem is Software/windows related.

So..when they don't work, what does device manager say? 'unknown device' for instance? IF this is what it says, your best bet would be to do a 'repair' install, this should fix it.

Another thought, uninstall any and all 'mouseware' or 'setpoint' software, these will break things on occasion as well.

Another thought, do they work in 'safe mode', if not, windows will likely need to be repaired, if they do, then windows is 'OK', but some other piece of software/driver/etc is breaking it.
 
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I've updated the question for better understanding if that helps
 
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There could 'possibly' be some sort of 'mouse filters' in the registry, but where this is so random i doubt it. Just try safe mode with networking for awhile. If it works, we can fix it. If it doesn't, at the least we need to try a 'paralell install', to test the hardware side of things.

A suggestion, if you can find/borrow/download a linux live dvd, and boot from it and play around for awhile, would also test your mouse n keyboard.

Most times this is SOFTWARE/DRIVER related, but need to know for sure, so don't end up troubleshooting for hours fixing software for notta.

A final thought, if you have a lot of USB devices plugged in, you could be drawing too much power, try unplugging unnecessary devices to test the issue.
 
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To add to what Ck1_13 already mentioned it could be something starting when Windows does that is the culprit. Oftentimes its something you would least expect to cause it.

If you run it in Safe Mode w/ Networking and its fine it's time you take a look at everything running and starting up when your computer does.

I would recommend using Autoruns.

Not sure what all those things are? Go to HERE for help with identifying those pesky startup items.
 
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I don't know how to run my computer in safe mode, so I'd need a step by step for that. Sorry

Second, I don't think it would be to many USB's plugged in at once because it's been the same amount of USB's since I got it. Two for the keyboard and mouse, one for the printer, one for my iPhone charger and one normal USB 2.0 cable which isn't even plugged into anything half the time and is there if I need to charge something. Plus, if that was the problem, why would my computer disable the most important USB users and not just my webcam or printer one? (Also my printer isn't always on so again, that isn't using that much power from the USB's)

Something I can mention is that one of my front USB's was torn out due to stepping on a USB plugged into it 4 or so months ago but if that's what the problem is because power going to those USB's and it fried something then why so late? Plus those are not the USB's I use my mouse and keyboard for.

And I'd like it if you could explain to me more about the 'paralell install' you were talking about.

I've seen a lot of people say stuff about the BOIS or something and I did try a little with that.
 
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So..you are having problems with USB, and you fried a USB port a while ago, coincidence?

For safe mode:

Just start your computer, wait for the 'splash screen' , then tap 'f8' repeatedly every 1/2 - 1 sec (don't throttle it, just steadily tap), when windows is supposed to load, it won't instead you will see a black screen with text on it for options, you can navigate using arrow keys, select 'safe mode with networking', and hit enter windows will load in a 'diagnostic' mode, graphics will not be great, and no sound, but can use the system and surf. As stated, if prob goes away then we can narrow it down from there.

Paralell install

If you have a second hard drive, you can boot from a windows disc, and install it but during the install you simply choose 'another hard drive' , this basically puts a fresh 30 day trial of windows, on a different hard drive, for testing purposes that does not interfere with your current install.
 
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No, I didn't fry one of my USB's it got ripped out.

Also, thanks for the tip for safe mode, I'll try it out and get back to you. Today, my USB's lasted REALLY long, (around 3 - 4 hours) which is a big improvement from what they normally do (1 hour more or less) If anything I want to say that it might be to much USB power from to many items plugged in but again, like I said, it doesn't make sense unless the iPhone 6 takes up more power then the iPhone 5 but I've had the 6 for a while now and there were no problem till nowish. I plugged them back into 3.0 and they seem fine for now (When they die in the 2.0 I plug them into the 3.0) but I just did now so I can report on my statues now.
 
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I have AVG Tune Up and there is an option there to pick what start up programs I want and what I want to disable until I open it. The only thing is I notice not everything is there, it mainly only works for big programs like Skype, Steam, Chrome and etc. Will this program be able to pick from everything on start up? Things like ipoint, itype, and just everything in the processes tab?
 
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I want to say everything is working fine with my mouse and keyboard on 2.0's in safe mode with networking but then again, there is no way for me to really test it out (nothing to keep me occupied for 3 hours or more with these limitations) But I will say my computer was being a bit slow? (Or that might be because of Safe mode. I think it was safe mode) I'll just leave my computer idle and do something else and come back to it in a few hours. Till then, I guess give me the solutions or narrowed down options if you can? If they do shut off in safe mode while idle, I'll let you know.

Thank you for all the help you've been giving me for this problem so far. I really appreciated it that you're taking the time to help me and are patient with me. (also like your icon and know where it's from)
 
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If it works in safe mode, we will do something called linear logical troubleshooting to resolve it. Kudo's to you for your patience. O ye, I did a small edit on the pic for lighting , tx for the compliment lol
 
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OK SO, I learned some things about my problems. Even though my mouse and keyboard are 'disabled' I can use my art tablet as a mouse so I went to device manager. In device manager, it shows the keyboard and mouse are still there but they just don't work. When I unplug them, they make the disconnect sound and it disappears from the device manager. I plug them back into the 2.0s, they pop back up but they still wont work which would explain why the laser is on on my mouse but it doesn't work but does not explain why the LED's on my keyboard turn off AND it doesn't work. I also notice that in the Human Interface Devices, things pop up, get removed and have a yellow triangle with the '!' in it when I plug and unplug it. I hope this helps for my problems and trouble shooting. Please let me know if there is anything I can do like the linear logical troubleshooting thing you talked about.
 
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A Bang in HID Device, yep, driver issue/software. OK, at this point I'd run a repair install, which If you don't have a windows disc, you may not be able to do. So..Try this:

Run CCleaner to get rid of temp junk

Goto Plain safe mode (not with networking)

Log in as administrator

Create a fresh restore point

Open CMD prompt, as admin

Type:

set devmgr_show_nonpresent_devices=1

start devmgmt.msc


when device manager opens, click at the top 'show hidden devices'. Then proceed to uninstall all the 'ghosted' devices in the list (they are half invisible). Also remove the keyboard and mouse (leave touchpad so you can 'work').

Then, restart windows , it will reinstall the hardware and hopefully, align it properly this time. If this fails, you will need to run a repair on your OS, or perhaps some other folks will go 'deeper' than I am.

Good Luck!
 
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Interesting for sure. What type of keyboard/mouse are you using? Brands and models if you have them would be great.

It could potentially be the computer turning off the ports to conserve power being used.

Not sure if you know how to check each of the USB Root Hubs to see if that is the case. Its real simple to do:
1. Go back to where you can see all the USB Root Hubs in Device Manager
2. Right click each one separately, choose Properties.
3. When window loads, click on Power Management tab.
4. Make sure that check box labeled "Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power" is unchecked.

If that doesn't help, we might be able to uninstall each of the USB Root Hubs (don't do it yet mind you) and see if it is within there. I've seen several instances where the PC is turning off the internal hubs to conserve energy even though the end user is still using them. Years ago, there was an issue with the S3 state in BIOS causing this to happen in Windows but this hasn't been heard about for a bit now.
 
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I've tried this as well and same results, still disables and re-enables. No real changes...
 
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The thing is like I said, I've tried with a few different keyboards and mice. I've also done the 4 steps you showed me and have done the whole uninstall and reinstall thing. Again, it's very odd since I've had this computer for a good year now and have been upgrading it slowly. I've had each upgraded part for more then 4 months (4 months since last upgrade) and this problem started happening 2 months ago. It did go away for a while a few weeks ago but came back again recently. I was staying away from my computer for the longest time so when I came back to it, it was working more or less properly then the issue came back! I don't leave my computer on all day and the most I would normally use it in one day would be for 7 hours or so. I keep my drivers up to date and I'm sure using it a lot wouldn't have this effect on it since some people never turn off their computers or us it almost all day and night for weeks on end. I have no idea what to do other then buy a new one, move parts over and so on but the problem is I have no money for that type of move.
 
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You've been through a lot during this process. The problem with USB ports, is generally they either work or not. Most times, it's a driver issue, and it sounds like that is what you are experiencing.

The only tangible item I noticed, thus far, is the fact that you have a bang under hid devices, which would explain it. This would come down to a broken registry entry most likely. The only real way to alleviate this issue, besides a 'specific' fix goes, would be to run a repair on the Operating System. If you can't do this, my advice, would be to see if you can pick up a USB card for $5 somewhere's, it's a simple plug into a PCI slot, gives you 4 ports, and if you need more you can buy a USB hub for around $5-$10 that will give you more.

I understand you don't want to purchase new hardware, but if you cannot format or repair the OS, I'm not sure what else to try.
 
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But the thing is, I don't need more USB ports, I have enough, the problem is that my computer keeps disabling my keyboard and mouse ONLY.

Update on my situation. It seems like it freezes my mouse and keyboard, stoping them from working because I press in the numlock key on my keyboard (which I always have on) and it doesn't turn off when they are disabled in USB port 2.0's but the computer is still working because the clock is still going and components are still working. My mouse is also stuck on what ever I was clicking on at the time like for example, if I click and hold onto an image and drag it, the shadowed version of the image is still there if my mouse disabled or 'froze'. Maybe that will shine some light on my situation? I hope?
 
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I'm beginning to wonder if something isn't amiss with the HAL for the operating system which would cause a "bang" to appear in Device Manager on a unplug and re-plug situation. I may have overlooked it but did you state if you have your original Windows CD or not?

If not, lets still run System File Checker to see if it picks up anything.
1) Click the Start pearl (circular thing in the bottom left corner)
2) In the search box, type cmd.
3) When it lists up above where you typed it in it will probably be called "Command Prompt"
4) Right click it and choose "Run As Administrator". If you get the UAC, click Yes
5) It should load and you will be at a prompt that looks similar to C:\Windows\System32
6) At this prompt, type in sfc /scannow NOTE: There needs to be a space between sfc and the / or it will return a bad command or file name error.
7) Allow this to run (it may take some time) and when its finished the window will close itself. Don't panic, this is normal.
8) Once its complete, reboot your computer.
NOTE: Be sure to do this at a time when the computer can work undisturbed as it is checking essential system files and will replace them if need be and is possible and attempting to use the computer while doing so could result in it taking longer or not working at all.

Once finished and rebooted, see if the issue reoccurs.
 
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What if during the proses my problem happens? Should I plug them into my USB 2.0's which is the proper placement but they disable a lot quicker or the 3.0's where they last longer but isn't the correct placement for them?
 
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This tools simply checks all the files within windows, to ensure they have not been altered from their original versions, or have been deleted. In this regards, don't worry about if they freeze up, as long as the SFC continues to run, until it disappears.
 
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Like Ck1_13 mentioned it shouldn't matter where they are plugged in. If it was an issue with the ports themselves it would be happening on any and all USB related devices.

Are the keyboards and mice all wireless or through corded USB (and you may have already told me, sorry :pt1cable:) ?

What type of other wireless, IR, or RF devices are close to your computer? This can include wireless home telephones, receiver for stereo equipment, cellphones, routers, etc.
 
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The window did not close once it was done and it says it did not find any integrity violations yet I'm sure the issue still stands.
 
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Are you familiar with creating a new user account at all?

If not, follow these steps:
To Create A User Account
- Click the Start button
- Click Control Panel
- Click User Accounts and Family Safety
- Click User Accounts
- Click Manage another account
NOTE:If you're prompted for an administrator password or confirmation, type the password or provide confirmation.
- Click Create a new account
- Type the name you want to give the user account
- Click an account type
- Click Create Account.

Once you've got it created, log off your current account and log into this new account. Once logged in, see if the issues with the mouse and keyboard occur. If not, you may have a corrupt user profile.
 
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I have a windows disc now and am currently using the memory diagnostics tool (if this is the same one or something similar to what AVG PCTuneUp has them it won't detect anything) What do I need to do with this disc to restor or search for errors which might be able to fix my problem.
 
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