USB ports stopped working.

[Ubrales]

I7 3770K (overclocked), EVGA Z77 FTW motherboard, Samsung 850EVO 500 GB SSD, Win 7 Pro 64-bit, Corsair AX 850 PSU (OEM Seasonic), EVGA GTX 660Ti, CAT 7E cable plugged into the Ethernet port.

No new hardware added; no new software installed before the USB ports stopped working.

USB 2.0 as well as USB 3.0 ports stopped working. I tried multiple USB flash drives and none worked. They work on two other computers without any problems. All drivers are up-to-date, and in addition, I uninstalled the USB controllers in Device Manager and then re-started the computer. No luck.

Next, I tried Microsoft's "Fix-it" - no luck, did not solve the issues.

When I plug in and unplug the USB flash drives I hear the familiar sound (chime) of a device being plugged in or unplugged.

I need suggestions at this point. I am not ready to re-install Windows or upgrade to Win 10.

(I did read other posts as well as checked other forums;, including Youtube videos).

Thank you in advance for your suggestions!

 

[Gman450]

I'm not expert in this section, but can you try System restore?

 

[4Ryan6]

Ubrales, Pick up a USB PCI or PCI-E add in card, (whichever you have a slot for), and see if that gets you back in operation, if it does then more than likely the USB part of the motherboard has failed.

I've had USB failures, Ethernet failures, on a couple of motherboards and a PCI or PCI-E add in card can get you right back in business, in most cases.

Edit: Additionally before you go the add in card route check all your USB port sockets, look for any dust or debri that could be shorting any of the connectors, also if you live near any ocean or salt air, look for signs of corrosion in the USB socket.

Blow dust out with canned air, but If you discover any corrosion at all on the contact fingers or socket wall, clean that off completely with CRC QD Electronic Component Cleaner, which you can find from any auto parts store, make sure it is QD as that will not hurt any surfaces in the socket or on the motherboard.

If dust or corrosion is not the problem, then somewhere your motherboard pathways to the USB ports have failed and use the add in card.

 

[Ubrales]

Ubrales, Pick up a USB PCI or PCI-E add in card, (whichever you have a slot for), and see if that gets you back in operation, if it does then more than likely the USB part of the motherboard has failed.

I've had USB failures, Ethernet failures, on a couple of motherboards and a PCI or PCI-E add in card can get you right back in business, in most cases.

Edit: Additionally before you go the add in card route check all your USB port sockets, look for any dust or debri that could be shorting any of the connectors, also if you live near any ocean or salt air, look for signs of corrosion in the USB socket.

Blow dust out with canned air, but If you discover any corrosion at all on the contact fingers or socket wall, clean that off completely with CRC QD Electronic Component Cleaner, which you can find from any auto parts store, make sure it is QD as that will not hurt any surfaces in the socket or on the motherboard.

If dust or corrosion is not the problem, then somewhere your motherboard pathways to the USB ports have failed and use the add in card.

Ryan, thank you so much for taking the time to reply. Your thoughts mirror my analysis; especially true since the motherboard warranty (3 years) has just expired!

In fact, this A.M. I started looking for available PCI slots, and I have one x16 (too close to the graphics card, so unsuitable), and three x8 slots available. (The PCI-Ex1 slot is taken up by a TP Link AC 1900 Wireless card).

http://www.evga.com/support/manuals/files/visual/151-IB-E699_Visual_Guide.pdf

This is the motherboard I have. PCI slots 2, 3, 4, & 5, are available (Slot #2 is too close to the graphics card). I think I will use slot #5 - adequate air flow around it.

In answer to your query, yes I diligently use compressed air to clean off dust bunnies, and I tried out the rear as well as the front USB 2.0 and USB 3.0 ports, and nothing worked. I live between the Atlantic and the Pacific; in Chicago!

However, when I plug-in any USB flash drive in any of the USB ports, I hear the distinct Windows chime that alerts that a USB device is plugged in. Ditto when unplugging a USB flash drive. If the USB communications path is defective on the motherboard, why does Windows acknowledge the device when plugged in? I appreciate your comments on this.
Ryan, your solution is a good one, and thank you!

I will also see what EVGA has to say on this issue.

 

[4Ryan6]

A signal chime could be a part of the USB pathway that is still connecting but the rest of the pathway is not allowing date through put.

FYI: You probably already know this but in case you don't, you can run PCI-E 1, 2, or 4 in an available PCI-E 16 slot.

 

[Ubrales]

A signal chime could be a part of the USB pathway that is still connecting but the rest of the pathway is not allowing date through put.

FYI: You probably already know this but in case you don't, you can run PCI-E 1, 2, or 4 in an available PCI-E 16 slot.

Yes, thanks! Generally, I try to stay away from the PCI 1x port because the PCB edge connectors are not mechanically aligned with the mounting bracket; not square, or slightly under-square (tolerance stack-up).. I end up re-aligning the product and then inserting it into the motherboard.

On the recent TP Link wireless AC adapter I made up an Autocad drawing and sent it to them explaining the issue, and suggesting a simple assembly fixture revision to address the alignment. (I called them in China to solve an installation issue that was not covered in the manual).

 

[Ubrales]

Update:

Working with EVGA tech support, I did the following:

1. Looked for USB option in the BIOS boot - None visible (indicates USB controller not working).
2. Re-installed the chipset - No change - No USB
3. Re-installed Intel ME - No change - No USB.
4. Changed OS disk to a 1-month older clone when USB was working. No change - No USB
5. Changed OS disk to a 4-months older clone when USB was working. No change - No USB

While discussing the issues with EVGA, they first suggested a host PCI card for USB. But based on the info about the two cloned OS disks where the USB does not work, they stated that the USB controller on the Southbridge of the motherboard has failed, and going to a host card would not solve the problem.

EVGA is looking into sending me an RMA board and they will ship such that I get the board before I send in my old board because of some sort of "EAR" program that I purchased years ago. I expressed concern about having to re-install the OS; a little dusty for age. The support engineer assured me that he had swapped out an X79 motherboard and did not have to re-install the OS; 4 years, no problems.

Conclusion: I shall wait for the RMA (courtesy of EVGA because the warranty has expired) board to arrive and then I will swap out motherboards. I will re-install the OS if absolutely necessary, and get it phone activated courtesy of Microsoft.

(Never realized that USB was so important!).

 

[Ubrales]

I'm not expert in this section, but can you try System restore?

Thanks for your reply! Yes, I used a 1-month old OS clone, no luck - then I used a 4-months old clone; no luck. When these two clones were created, the USB ports worked fine.

 

[4Ryan6]

Your thoughts mirror my analysis; especially true since the motherboard warranty (3 years) has just expired!

Sometimes I wonder how the components last just past the warranty so the manufacturer is not held responsible, but you know of course they don't want these things to last forever, because they do want to sell more updated components.

So what's happening?

 

[4Ryan6]

Update:

Conclusion: I shall wait for the RMA (courtesy of EVGA because the warranty has expired) board to arrive and then I will swap out motherboards. I will re-install the OS if absolutely necessary, and get it phone activated courtesy of Microsoft.

(Never realized that USB was so important!).

Sorry I missed the Update My Bad, Wow is EVGA replacing the board at their expense?

If it is the same model motherboard you may not have to do a reinstall at all.

 

[Ubrales]

Update:

Conclusion: I shall wait for the RMA (courtesy of EVGA because the warranty has expired) board to arrive and then I will swap out motherboards. I will re-install the OS if absolutely necessary, and get it phone activated courtesy of Microsoft.

(Never realized that USB was so important!).

Sorry I missed the Update My Bad, Wow is EVGA replacing the board at their expense?

If it is the same model motherboard you may not have to do a reinstall at all.

Yes, EVGA has probably the best tech support in the US! Excellent products too!

This motherboard change will give me the opportunity to experiment with my 1-micron diamond powder that I plan on mixing with Arctic Silver 5 when I install the CPU/heatsink. (Diamond has superior heat conductivity when compared to Silver which is higher than gold).

 

[4Ryan6]

Yes, EVGA has probably the best tech support in the US! Excellent products too!

This motherboard change will give me the opportunity to experiment with my 1-micron diamond powder that I plan on mixing with Arctic Silver 5 when I install the CPU/heatsink. (Diamond has superior heat conductivity when compared to Silver which is higher than gold).

Wow, That is fantastic!

Will you be opening another thread with your testing?

If you do PM me a link to it, Please.

 

[Ubrales]

Yes, EVGA has probably the best tech support in the US! Excellent products too!

This motherboard change will give me the opportunity to experiment with my 1-micron diamond powder that I plan on mixing with Arctic Silver 5 when I install the CPU/heatsink. (Diamond has superior heat conductivity when compared to Silver which is higher than gold).

Wow, That is fantastic!

Will you be opening another thread with your testing?

If you do PM me a link to it, Please.

Yes, I will open another thread and post the results of the diamond powder testing. I have 1-micron diamond powder; 0.5-micron powder will cake-up in storage. The test will be a "ball park" type of test as I don't have the capability of switching back and forth, with and without!

I was surprised to learn that silver has better heat conductivity than gold; and diamond surpasses them all!

Yes, I will PM you and alert you!

 

[4Ryan6]

Thanks Ubrales! Ry

 

[The Original Ralph]

as an FYI, yes carbon (diamonds) do have the highest rate of thermal conductivity - i work with carbon fiber, and it's crazy, but it seems to suck heat out of whatever it's attached or molded to, and then gives it up to the atmosphere on the other side equally fast.

I had a VW R32 with 3.2 liter V6, with an aftermarket turbo kit - it was dyno'd at 414 hp and 381 ft/lbs torque. I fabricated a sheet or laid up a sheet of carbon fiber to the engines oil pan, running up the sides about 2" - then molded a bunch of "C" channel (1/2" tall X 1/2" wide) and cut them to fit the sheet on the oil pan (to create ribbing ala heatsink), and bonded them to it. I knocked 14-15 degreesF off my oil temps

came into this thread looking for a solution to a similiar problem - and suspect my mobo has gone - when my usb ports went, i had just plugged a seagate backup slim plus (2.5" hdd) into a powered anker usb hub, and the instant i did, computer BSOD'd, and i remember seeing a small spark at the port where i was plugging in the usb plug.

fwiw