it is possible, you have to look at your amp's detailed specs and what load you are going to drive, then for the power compensate for about 50% efficiency and then should be good to go. I am actually doing this with a Riot 1100M and an old FSP Saga 450R 450w power supply for the past couple of years and sounds awesome.
The specs on the Riot 1100M:
https://www.bossaudio.com/product/car-audio-sound-system-auto-monoblock-amplifier-boss-audio-r1100m/
1100 W MAX Power 1 Channel
825 W X 1 RMS @ 2 ohm
413 W X 1 RMS @ 4 ohm
207 W x 1 RMS @ 8 ohm (I calculated this using ohms law, since I am driving a 4-ohm dual-coil sub bridged into 8 ohm)
FSP Saga 450R specs: +12v (combined) @ 360W max
So far so good, since I am most likely not going to drive the amp at full capacity the realistic ceiling I have 180W with this PSU. I had to trace the +12v1 and +12v2 and make sure I combined them into the amp + and remote power inputs (it is much easier with single-rail units), connect up the same # of black / ground to the negative, grounded the amp and PSU chassis together with the usual green wire (color does not really matter lol - but most chassis ground wiring is green, and I have some)
Using my DC clamp meter I can estimate using about 100W max on my amp at good volumes to match my 60W/ch Onkyo 5.1 @ 50% volume levels (which is just about right for a higher powered sub amp, and right on target for the efficiency of both the amp and power supply). For the record, my sub is the old BSR 15" passive sub from the DAK catalog that was available some 25 ~ 30 years ago.