[SOLVED] Very odd PC reboots when starting Games.

[maxenny_throwaway]

Hello, dear reader! I have a problem with my PC, which has a 50% chance of randomly black-screening and automatically rebooting when launching specific games.
Here is my system:
CPU: Ryzen 5 5600
GPU: GIGABYTE RTX 3060 EAGLE OC 12GB
RAM: G.Skill Aegis F4-3200C16D-16GIS (2x8GB DDR4 3200MHz)
MB: Asus B450M Pro4-F (Not rev. 2.0)
MB BIOS Version: 2.80
PSU: Chieftec ATX IARENA GPC-600S
OS: Windows 11

I recently upgraded my CPU from a 'Ryzen 5 2600' to a 'Ryzen 5 5600'. I needed to update my BIOS version to have my MB be compatible with the new CPU. I upgraded from the original 2.20 that came with my motherboard, to version 2.80, which was the latest, non-beta version of the motherboard. Once the system was ready to boot into my OS, I pressed the power button... and it kept reboot cycling. At first, I obviously thought that the Motherboard was training the memory with the new CPU, however, I soon realized something was wrong when it rebooted for the 6th to even 10th time without even getting to the POST screen. The motherboard does not come with an on-board speaker, so I could not diagnose any beeps to solve the issue...

Eventually... I solved the issue by booting the system with 1 memory stick, however, there is a new problem that I still haven't fixed. For some reason, my PC instantly reboots, with a black screen on both monitors , all LED lights on my peripherals, case, and external lights shut off temporarily, and turn back on once the system starts booting itself back into my OS. Now, for daily use, the PC works fine... however... when launching specific games, E.G. League of Legends, VRChat, the PC reboots after the 1st or 2nd launch of the mentioned games. The PC reboots only when launching the game, not during gameplay. If the PC doesn't crash during the game launching, it will play perfectly fine, and I am able to play those mentioned games. I don't know what the problem could be, as I have played VR and other Non-VR games for hours straight without any hiccups or lag or anything else.
Note: The PC itself does not shut off, it reboots the same way as if I were to press the Reset button on the front of the case.

TL;DR - Upgraded my CPU, solved a reboot cycling problem, specific games now hard reboots the computer after 1st or 2nd launch of said game.
Things to note: There have been no BSOD's when the PC crashes and auto reboots / To my knowledge, the PC is not overheating, since the crashes happen at around 60*C for both CPU and GPU.

Something to know - I checked event viewer, and saw a Kernel-Power Critical problem whenever my PC crashes / hard-reboots.

Things I have tried:

1. Clearing CMOS;
2. Clearing CMOS and booting with 1 memory stick;
3. Un-plug and re-plug all PSU cables;
4. Reseating memory sticks to different slots (from 1st and 3rd slot -> 2nd and 4th slot);
5. Run OCCT stress tests on CPU, GPU, Memory, and Power to find the potential culprit, with no crashes whenever I left the stress tests for half an hour on each type of test;
6. Clean reinstalling GPU drivers;
7. Disable X.M.P. profiles, letting the RAM speed stay at 2133MHz.

Any possible suggestions on how to fix this? I'm trying as much troubleshooting as I possibly can before I buy a new PSU, since a lot of people say that the Kernel-Power issue is mostly caused by a faulty PSU.

 

[Aeacus]

PSU: Chieftec ATX IARENA GPC-600S

Why? Just why?

..sigh..

Random reboots or shutdowns are mostly caused by 2 issues:

1. CPU/GPU overheats and to prevent any damage, system shuts down.
2. PSU fails to deliver enough power to the GPU or fails to keep smooth enough voltage for PC's operation.

Since your temps are within reason, it's the PSU who is acting up.

All Chieftec units are essentially crap. One prebuilt that i bought, also came with Chieftec unit but i threw it out soon after and went with Seasonic S12II-520 instead (that was more than 15 years ago).

Here, only fix is to buy a new, good quality PSU. E.g Seasonic Focus/PRIME or Corsair RM/RMi/RMe/RMx/HX/HXi/AX/AXi, in 650W range.
(All 3 of my PCs are also powered by Seasonic, full specs with pics in my sig.)

For 2nd opinion on your PSUs quality, your PSU sits in Tier D (look for Chieftec GPC-S),
PSU tier list: https://forums.tomshardware.com/thr...er-list-rev-14-8-final-update-jul-21.3624094/

While what i suggest and personally use, is anything from Tier A.

 

[maxenny_throwaway]

Why? Just why?

..sigh..

All Chieftec units are essentially crap. One prebuilt that i bought, also come with Chieftec unit but i threw it out soon after and went with Seasonic S12II-520 instead (that was more than 15 years ago).

Before you slander me with my choice of PSU, I feel like I need to mention this:

1. Before the CPU upgrade, there were absolutely 0 crashes, the PSU was working fine;
2. This specific model was the first one I hand picked because my previous one had started smoking during gameplay. My old PSU had been used for more than 4 years, and this one in particular was on sale for about 40 bucks excluding Tax.
3. After asking my friends about the brand / manufacturer of Chieftec (to which one of them is also using a Chieftec PSU, just with a different Wattage rating), they've said that it's fine, and so I trust their judgement.
4. At the time, I didn't have a job, so I was on a really tight budget, and I needed the / a PSU ASAP.

EDIT: Even if the PSU cannot deliver enough power towards the system, then how do stress tests have not caused the system to crash? To me, if the system doesn't crash, that means that the components of the PC have enough power to do multiple processes and rendering jobs. And even if the GPU / CPU don't have enough power, why doesn't the PC crash during gameplay, when it needs it most, and not exactly at the time when an application (a game) opens...?

 

[Aeacus]

Before the CPU upgrade, there were absolutely 0 crashes, the PSU was working fine;

PSU can act up at any given moment. Even on normal day without any system changes for years.

because my previous one had started smoking during gameplay. My old PSU had been used for more than 4 years

Good quality PSUs doesn't smoke. I have Seasonic SSR-650TD powering my build for 6 years problem free and i have easy another 6 years of runtime for it, since it came with 12 years of warranty. Most likely i'll get far more out of my Seasonic unit that it's warranty period, since Seasonic units are known to far outlast their warranty period.

and this one in particular was on sale for about 40 bucks excluding Tax.

If you pay peanuts, you will get monkeys.

For price comparison, my SSR-650TD costed me €206.80 ($220.30).

After asking my friends about the brand / manufacturer of Chieftec (to which one of them is also using a Chieftec PSU, just with a different Wattage rating), they've said that it's fine, and so I trust their judgement.

And now, you can go and ask your friend to pay for your new PSU. Since clearly they gave you bad advice.

In a similar sense; when your friend tells you, that they are constantly driving drunk and without wearing a seat belt, while not having an accident, will you listen to them and also start driving drunk? If not, then why not?

At the time, I didn't have a job, so I was on a really tight budget, and I needed the / a PSU ASAP.

Yet, you have enough money to buy RTX 3060, which costed easy 500-700 bucks (or up to 950 when including scalping prices).
So, no. I do not believe that you did not have enough money.

If money was tight, you could've sold your expensive GPU for ~600 bucks in 2021, buying e.g Seasonic Focus GX-550 for ~100 bucks and using the rest of the money to buy e.g GTX 1660.
Also, from where came the money to upgrade the CPU?

....

Fact is, that your PSU is junk and until you buy proper PSU, the issues you're seeing, won't go away. But they can get a far worse. Since when crap quality blows up and releases it's magic smoke, it has ability to fry everything it is connected to. Aka your whole PC, including your fancy GPU.

Because PSU powers everything, it is the most important component inside the PC, and you do not want to cheap out on PSU.

 

[maxenny_throwaway]

Yet, you have enough money to buy RTX 3060, which costed easy 500-700 bucks (or up to 950 when including scalping prices).
So, no. I do not believe that you did not have enough money.

I bought the RTX 3060 (which I paid 440 EUR for) 1 month ago from a local retailer, which I upgraded from a GTX 1660 Super.

Good quality PSUs doesn't smoke.

Trust me, I know that very well. My PC wasn't built by me at first. I started out with the 4 year old PSU, and I slowly upgraded every part in the past years. Upgraded my Motherboard, then upgraded my CPU to the R5 2600 chip, then upgraded my GPU, only then did the 4 year old PSU smoked on me, then decided to upgrade my GPU again, and now we are here.

PSU can act up at any given moment. Even on normal day without any system changes for years.

I suppose that's understandable. Any electronic device can simply not work suddenly...

And now, you can go and ask your friend to pay for your new PSU. Since clearly they gave you bad advice.

In a similar sense; when your friend tells you, that they are constantly driving drunk and without wearing a seat belt, while not having an accident, will you listen to them and also start driving drunk? If not, then why not?

I have no reason to. The PSU worked fine for the time I used it, I don't see a reason to suddenly disrespect my friend just because it didn't survive as long as I had hoped it would.
Besides... you simply can't compare drunk driving to a bad PSU manufacturer... One thing is a bad purchase / product, the other one is illegal.

Also, from where came the money to upgrade the CPU?

I don't feel the need to answer this question for privacy reasons..... I'll just say that I paid 130 EUR for the CPU, which costs way less than the RTX card...

I don't see a reason for us two to fight and spill out unnecessary banter. I thank you for your answer, and will be looking for a suitable PSU purchase once the time comes.

 

[Aeacus]

Besides... you simply can't compare drunk driving to a bad PSU manufacturer... One thing is a bad purchase / product, the other one is illegal.

It isn't illegal to drive without a seatbelt. Since when car doesn't come with one (e.g '57 Chevy Bel Air, beautiful car btw), there's nothing you can do about it.

Still, the point i wanted to make, is that just because someone is doing/using something, doesn't instantly mean it is safe for others as well. They have gotten lucky thus far, but luck will eventually run out.

Btw, crap quality PSUs should be banned from entire world, since they have killed people.
Example article: https://www.thesundaily.my/archive/...wer-supply-unit-computer-updated-LTARCH461974

I don't see a reason for us two to fight and spill out unnecessary banter. I thank you for your answer, and will be looking for a suitable PSU purchase once the time comes.

I've seen way too many instances over the years, of people cheaping out on PSUs and then coming here when issues arise.
People cheaping out PSUs, but paying top dollar for GPUs, is slowly getting to me 😣 (being annoyed would be understatement).

Before any PC hardware purchase, come here into TH forums, and ask industry experts about your planned purchases. Rather than asking a friend.

Edit:

EDIT: Even if the PSU cannot deliver enough power towards the system, then how do stress tests have not caused the system to crash? To me, if the system doesn't crash, that means that the components of the PC have enough power to do multiple processes and rendering jobs. And even if the GPU / CPU don't have enough power, why doesn't the PC crash during gameplay, when it needs it most, and not exactly at the time when an application (a game) opens...?

Stress test/bench = full load.
Game/app = specific load.

Proper PSU has to be able to cope with all kinds of loads, be it full load, minuscule load or specific load. With crap quality PSUs, you'll never know what is their triggering point. Often it is full load, but it doesn't have to be full load, it could be specific load, triggering the PSU fault.

 

[maxenny_throwaway]

It isn't illegal to drive without a seatbelt.

Do know that we live on the opposite sides of the world, assuming that you live on the America side of the world. Where I live, it is simply illegal to operate and / or register a vehicle that doesn't have seatbelts. It is quite bad to assume that everything is the same where you are.

I've seen way too many instances over the years, of people cheaping out on PSUs and then coming here when issues arise.
People cheaping out PSUs, but paying top dollar for GPUs, is slowly getting to me 😣 (being annoyed would be understatement).

I can understand that, some people simply do not know what they are looking for when buying a new computer, only to get very disappointed when something goes horribly wrong. However, in my circumstances, there was simply no other choice but to buy the Chieftec PSU... of course, I could live temporarily without a PC, but, at the time, that would be unacceptable due to school being a 'from home' type of deal.

 

[Aeacus]

Do know that we live on the opposite sides of the world, assuming that you live on the America side of the world.

Unless America has switched to Euros in the past few days , no, i don't live in America.
If you didn't catch it, then when i disclosed my PSU price, it was in Euros, since i payed Euros for it. Thus, i must live somewhere in EU (and i do).

Where I live, it is simply illegal to operate and / or register a vehicle that doesn't have seatbelts. It is quite bad to assume that everything is the same where you are.

I don't assume and it is legal to drive antique cars, which doesn't have any modern day safety features (seat belts, airbags, ABS, crumple zones) etc. Even in my nick of the woods, despite the high safety standards for cars.

In my country, when car is at least 35 years old, it can be given up for validation and after successful validation, registered as antique car and no-one is forcing you to install modern safety features in it, since it didn't came with them. (On the contrary, modifying the antique car by replacing original parts with custom ones/adding stuff, lowers the authenticity of the car.) But you can still drive it on public roads issue free.

However, in my circumstances, there was simply no other choice but to buy the Chieftec PSU... of course, I could live temporarily without a PC, but, at the time, that would be unacceptable due to school being a 'from home' type of deal.

There is always another option.

One such option i explained above.

Another option would've been coming here, telling us your store and asking experts to pick the best PSU within your budget.
For example, you would've been better off with older Seasonic unit (e.g S12II or M12II EVO), than with that Chieftec crap. Sure, old Seasonic units are group-regulated (entire S12II series and up to 620W M12II EVO series), but these two PSUs are solid as a rock and best group-regulated PSUs ever made. They would've given you several solid years of operation, despite them being released way back in 2009.

 

[GF`LAW`LESS]

Hello, dear reader! I have a problem with my PC, which has a 50% chance of randomly black-screening and automatically rebooting when launching specific games.
Here is my system:
CPU: Ryzen 5 5600
GPU: GIGABYTE RTX 3060 EAGLE OC 12GB
RAM: G.Skill Aegis F4-3200C16D-16GIS (2x8GB DDR4 3200MHz)
MB: Asus B450M Pro4-F (Not rev. 2.0)
MB BIOS Version: 2.80
PSU: Chieftec ATX IARENA GPC-600S
OS: Windows 11

I recently upgraded my CPU from a 'Ryzen 5 2600' to a 'Ryzen 5 5600'. I needed to update my BIOS version to have my MB be compatible with the new CPU. I upgraded from the original 2.20 that came with my motherboard, to version 2.80, which was the latest, non-beta version of the motherboard. Once the system was ready to boot into my OS, I pressed the power button... and it kept reboot cycling. At first, I obviously thought that the Motherboard was training the memory with the new CPU, however, I soon realized something was wrong when it rebooted for the 6th to even 10th time without even getting to the POST screen. The motherboard does not come with an on-board speaker, so I could not diagnose any beeps to solve the issue...

Eventually... I solved the issue by booting the system with 1 memory stick, however, there is a new problem that I still haven't fixed. For some reason, my PC instantly reboots, with a black screen on both monitors , all LED lights on my peripherals, case, and external lights shut off temporarily, and turn back on once the system starts booting itself back into my OS. Now, for daily use, the PC works fine... however... when launching specific games, E.G. League of Legends, VRChat, the PC reboots after the 1st or 2nd launch of the mentioned games. The PC reboots only when launching the game, not during gameplay. If the PC doesn't crash during the game launching, it will play perfectly fine, and I am able to play those mentioned games. I don't know what the problem could be, as I have played VR and other Non-VR games for hours straight without any hiccups or lag or anything else.
Note: The PC itself does not shut off, it reboots the same way as if I were to press the Reset button on the front of the case.

TL;DR - Upgraded my CPU, solved a reboot cycling problem, specific games now hard reboots the computer after 1st or 2nd launch of said game.
Things to note: There have been no BSOD's when the PC crashes and auto reboots / To my knowledge, the PC is not overheating, since the crashes happen at around 60*C for both CPU and GPU.

Something to know - I checked event viewer, and saw a Kernel-Power Critical problem whenever my PC crashes / hard-reboots.

Things I have tried:

1. Clearing CMOS;
2. Clearing CMOS and booting with 1 memory stick;
3. Un-plug and re-plug all PSU cables;
4. Reseating memory sticks to different slots (from 1st and 3rd slot -> 2nd and 4th slot);
5. Run OCCT stress tests on CPU, GPU, Memory, and Power to find the potential culprit, with no crashes whenever I left the stress tests for half an hour on each type of test;
6. Clean reinstalling GPU drivers;
7. Disable X.M.P. profiles, letting the RAM speed stay at 2133MHz.

Any possible suggestions on how to fix this? I'm trying as much troubleshooting as I possibly can before I buy a new PSU, since a lot of people say that the Kernel-Power issue is mostly caused by a faulty PSU.

Not necessarily, check your BIOS settings and make sure to disable low power c-states / I'd start from there - then start re-enabling them 1 by 1. Usually you don't really need all of them, but that depends on the type of usage and personal needs.
That should work even if your PSU is getting faulty.