[SOLVED] What power supply should i get?

[laktisbrendo]

GIGABYTE B450M DS3H

GIGABYTE GeForce GTX 1650 D6 WINDFORCE OC 4GB GDDR5 128bit (GV-N1656WF2OC-4GD)

AMD Ryzen 5 3600 Hexa-Core 3.6GHz AM4

Kingston HyperX FURY 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 3200MHz HX432C16FB3K2/16

 

[Lutfij]

Welcome to the forums, newcomer!

Where are you located(which will also help us understand what you have access to), what is your budget and what is your preferred site for purchase? You should look into a 550W reliably built PSU, if you don't intend to upgrade the GPU. If you do, then look at a 650W reliably built PSU, something akin to a Seasonic unit.

 

[--SID--]

Powerusage is less than 200w. A good 400w is more than enough. Do you have a link to the shop where you want to buy?

 

[refillable]

CX 450 or MWE V2 Bronze 450 would be the best.

 

[geofelt]

If you are in the market for a new psu, here are some thoughts:

1. Buy the capacity you need and then some.
Here is a link to what you need; it depends on the graphics configuration:
http://www.realhardtechx.com/index_archivos/Page362.htm

I have no problem overprovisioning a PSU a bit. Say 20%.
It will allow for a stronger future graphics card upgrade.
It will run cooler, quieter, and more efficiently in the middle third of it's range.
A PSU will only use the wattage demanded of it, regardless of it's max capability.

2. Buy only a quality psu. Try to buy a tier 1 or 2 unit from a list such as this:
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/id-2547993/psu-tier-list.html
Seasonic is generally very good.
Look for a unit with a 7 to 10 year warranty.
A good psu is a long term investment.

A cheap PSU will be made of substandard components. It will not have safety and overload protections.
If it fails under load, it can destroy anything it is connected to.
It will deliver advertised power only at room temperatures, not at higher temperatures found when installed in a case.
The wattage will be delivered on the 3 and 5v rails, not on the 12v rails where modern parts
like the CPU and Graphics cards need it. What power is delivered may fluctuate and cause instability
issues that are hard to diagnose.
The fan will need to spin up higher to cool it, making it noisy.
A cheap PSU can become very expensive. if it should fail.
Do not buy one.

3. It is unlikely that the price premium paid for gold rating will ever be returned to you in electricity cost savings.
There IS value in higher efficiency in that the cooling fan will need to run less and the unit will generally be quieter

4. Modular costs more. Consider that you are likely to be using most of the power leads regardless. There will normally be a decent place to store unused leads away and out if sight or the cooling airstream. Also, if you have a length restriction, the leads that plug into a modular psu will not bend as much as a fixed attachment consequently taking more room, not less.

 

[Juular]

Try to buy a tier 1 or 2 unit from a list such as this:
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/id-2547993/psu-tier-list.html

That tier list is dead.

 

[dorsai]

If there's a chance you'll be upgrading to a newer GPU in the next year or two it's worth it to buy a quality supply in the 750w range...if not then I'd grab a 500w.In either case stay away from cheap supplies and invest in a decent gold rated one that has a solid warranty.

 

[geofelt]

That tier list is dead.

True enough.
There are many such lists.
I use it because many looking for power supplies are looking at older units and are looking for general guidance.
To be accurate, one should rely more on reviews from those with expertise in power supplies.

 

[Juular]

There are many such lists.

And we have one right here (in my sig), it's constantly updated, has a lot of old units and reliance on the hard data from expert reviews is a cornerstone of out methodology.