Name

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I have noticed that in tournament games some players will deal with the
stealth bleeding predator by simply not blocking the bleeds, hoping that
then their predator will have too many stealth cards in their hand.

However, whenever I have tried this it has never worked! I end up just being
bled for large amounts by several minions -- and he might just have only had
one stealth card in his hand!

So, I wondered if any of you had some advice on what to look for when
deciding whether to employ this strategy. Any success stories?

Thanks!

NW
 
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This strategy is always risky but most of the time you won't be able to
block a s&b deck so why bother. He may jam on stealth eventually.

Sathriel
 
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Name wrote:
> I have noticed that in tournament games some players will deal with the
> stealth bleeding predator by simply not blocking the bleeds, hoping that
> then their predator will have too many stealth cards in their hand.
>
> However, whenever I have tried this it has never worked! I end up just being
> bled for large amounts by several minions -- and he might just have only had
> one stealth card in his hand!
>
> So, I wondered if any of you had some advice on what to look for when
> deciding whether to employ this strategy. Any success stories?
>
> Thanks!
>
> NW

Just give in and play with a dozen Deflections.

Jeff
 
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> So, I wondered if any of you had some advice on what to look for when
> deciding whether to employ [not blocking stealthy decks] strategy.

I think this is a great question, and it's hard to answer. Here are my
thoughts:

If you are considering employing the "I will jam them on stealth cards"
strategy, you must be willing to stick with that decision for the rest
of the game. Most decisions you can change your mind about, but in
this case, you have the best chance of success if you don't change your
mind. The bleeds will come big at first, and you just have to hope
that they will die down.

You must be reasonably confident that your pool gain and bleed
reduction will be sufficient defense.

You must also be reasonably confident that your predator won't be able
to cycle stealth cards very easily. That is, if your grand-predator
tries to block your predator's undirected actions, then your strategy
won't work as well.

Furthermore, if you bounce bleeds, your prey might try to block and let
your predator cycle stealth. Also, if you have bounce tech in your
deck, then you should likely try to block in most cases, because then
you can bounce stealthy big bleeds to your prey, instead of zero
stealth big bleeds to your prey.

Since it's rarely the case that all of the above conditions are true, I
think it's generally better to try and block, especially if you can
bounce, if you can sometimes generate intercept, if you have permanent
intercept, and/or if you can beat people up in combat.

If you don't bounce bleeds, you never generate any intercept, and you
can't do anything in combat (i.e. you're a weenie deck), your pool
gain/pool buffer is large, and your predator is clearly a deck with
lots of stealth cards, then you might consider employing the "I never
block" strategy.

Finally, if you do decide to employ the "I never block" strategy, you
should try to make it seem like you could block at any moment, with a
lot of intercept, and beat up whatever minion you catch. :) If that
causes your predator to hold onto a stealth card even for one extra
turn, that could make a difference later in the game.

Good luck,

Ira
 
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In message <uGMZe.197$DY.67@newssvr33.news.prodigy.com>, Name
<name@name.com> writes:
>I have noticed that in tournament games some players will deal with the
>stealth bleeding predator by simply not blocking the bleeds, hoping that
>then their predator will have too many stealth cards in their hand.
>
>However, whenever I have tried this it has never worked! I end up just being
>bled for large amounts by several minions -- and he might just have only had
>one stealth card in his hand!

I've often seen players try to block a bleed or two, only to see stealth
card after stealth card pumped out. At which point, they start doing
other things - be it sitting on their hands, bouncing or whatever.

Also, many successful stealth bleed decks know about this tactic, so
even if you don't block they will often have card cycling to hand.
Obviously, they'd rather use something else if they can, like playing
the cards, but cyclers like Dreams of the Sphinx and The Barrens are
good for a wide variety of decks. There are also potentially good
sources of stealth that are less vulnerable to card cycling worries -
Marked Path, for example, might make a few showings, good for stealth
but playable (from your hand) without the normal excess stealth
concerns.

Also also, most decks tend to have zero to light intercept (the
occasional Telepathic Misdirection for intercept or bounce, the odd
master intercept location), or heavy intercept (e.g. a wall deck). IME,
the ones that include medium intercept are the Prince decks which are
relatively easily spotted - and you can often take those out with cards
like Seduction. Ministry might also be a possibility, with Black Hand /
Seraph vampires - I've not seen that turn up so much in practise, but
I'm sure someone's doing it somewhere.

The point is that most of the decks you'll see, I would wager, have
light intercept - so you don't need heavy stealth. The wall decks will
be able to generate huge amounts of intercept pretty quickly (as they'll
often have a couple of intercept locations going off quickly), so you
either rely on speed or trying to take out the blockers. For that
reason, cards like Seduction are great, or Call of the Hungry Dead or
Elder Impersonation. So a strong stealth bleed deck these days will
often be relatively low stealth, but with a few block denial cards -
Seduction is also relatively easy to cycle, even if people aren't
declaring blocks, for instance.

So, here you might well conclude that a player who's designing a strong
deck will try to out-think you in this regard and make her deck much
less vulnerable to the "Don't block, he'll get jammed!" strategies of
the past. And IME, with good players, you'd be right. People who are
just throwing the deck together in twenty minutes, people who over-
estimate the power of stealth bleed and inexperienced players may make
the mistakes. So in those situations, it may well be worth it.


However, the general point about knowing / guessing well what's in
someone's hand is interesting. If you're a later prey, you can go
through their ash heap and look at the ratios. If there are, like, 5
stealth cards and 15 bleed cards and the odd master or two, and he
hasn't been ditching one sort of card like crazy, you can often take
that as a reasonably reliable guide to the deck composition. (In fact,
some players have used such information to try to clone decks.)

If you're also worried about what players are carrying, there are simple
ways around it - Owl Companion, Revelations, Aura Reading etc. These
obviously only lend themselves to certain deck-styles, but you might
well be able to find a few decks in there that you want to play, that
are enjoyable for you.

--
James Coupe
PGP Key: 0x5D623D5D YOU ARE IN ERROR.
EBD690ECD7A1FB457CA2 NO-ONE IS SCREAMING.
13D7E668C3695D623D5D THANK YOU FOR YOUR COOPERATION.
 

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jeffkuta@pacbell.net wrote:

> Just give in and play with a dozen Deflections.

Is there anything beyond personal aesthetics that suggests you should
"give in" to Dominate, but not to:

A) weenies
B) PTO
C) Stealth Bleed
D) Whatever else gets people panties in a bunch?

Just curious about the rationale.....
 
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bluedevil wrote:
> jeffkuta@pacbell.net wrote:
>
> > Just give in and play with a dozen Deflections.
>
> Is there anything beyond personal aesthetics that suggests you should
> "give in" to Dominate, but not to:
>
> A) weenies
> B) PTO
> C) Stealth Bleed
> D) Whatever else gets people panties in a bunch?
>
> Just curious about the rationale.....

My somewhat tongue-in-cheek comment was more about having access to the
best bounce card in the game--usually the best way to deal with stealth
bleed--than generally about Dominate which is incredibly powerful in so
many other ways.

Now, if a decent disciplineless bounce card existed, then his question
would have a very simple answer...

Jeff
 

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<ira212@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1127722540.794002.250260@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> > So, I wondered if any of you had some advice on what to look for when
> > deciding whether to employ [not blocking stealthy decks] strategy.
>
> I think this is a great question, and it's hard to answer. Here are my
> thoughts:

Thanks all for the ideas, you've given me much to mull over. What I do know
is that I should probably have been trying to block the other night when I
actually had an intercept location in play!

N
 
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also check out the master-based module to discourage bleeds.

if i remember correctly it was something like this:

2 (or 3) archon investigations
2 major boons
2 dummy corporations

major boon your grand predator bleeding your predator, if he's smart he
won't increase the bleed, especially if noticing that your predator is
s&b. the dummy corp encourages a bigger bleed, but you can trigger the
major boon to force your predator to take the damage instead.

when the boon is gone and a dummy corp is in play your predator may try
big bleeds again. dropping an archon investigation to render their
minion to ash is a good learning lesson.

this can help towards any block/no block decisions you make to survive.

but *sigh* still, deflection is best.
Name wrote:
> <ira212@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1127722540.794002.250260@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
>
>>>So, I wondered if any of you had some advice on what to look for when
>>>deciding whether to employ [not blocking stealthy decks] strategy.
>>
>>I think this is a great question, and it's hard to answer. Here are my
>>thoughts:
>
>
> Thanks all for the ideas, you've given me much to mull over. What I do know
> is that I should probably have been trying to block the other night when I
> actually had an intercept location in play!
>
> N
>
>
 
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Name wrote:
> I have noticed that in tournament games some players will deal with the
> stealth bleeding predator by simply not blocking the bleeds,
>
> So, I wondered if any of you had some advice on what to look for when
> deciding whether to employ this strategy.
>

The best time to choose this strategy is when you are making your deck.
Ask yourself- How will I deal with stealth-bleed (or just plain
stealthy) predator?

If your plan is intercept, you'll want to try to block from the start
even if you haven't hit your intercept yet.

If your plan is Telepathic Counter, out run, out bloat, rush and smash
etc... then don't try to block. Ever. With just bounce and no intercept
you probably don't want to try to block either.

-Ben Swainbank
 
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Name wrote:
> So, I wondered if any of you had some advice on what to look for when
> deciding whether to employ this strategy. Any success stories?

Well, here is the thing. If your predator likely has enough stealth to
get by any intercept attempt you try, there is no point in trying to
block, as it just lets him cycle your hand.

If you have a deck that has no intercept whatsoever (and there are lots
of decks like that), trying to block someone who can even get reliable
+1 stealth is pointless in any situation--sure, they *might* not have
the stealth in their hand, but the vast majority of the time, they
will, and so you'll just let them cycle cards that they couldn't get
out of their hands otherwise, and probably draw into more stealth.

On the other hand, if your deck has a reasonable amount of intercept
(permanent usually works better for this--a dude with 3 Raven Spies is
going to go a lot further in depleting stealth reserves than a couple
intercept cards and a guy with aus), trying to block all the time is
likely to run them out of stealth.

Generally, if you can't generate reliable +3 intercept, it isn't worth
trying to block someone with a lot of stealth (i.e. a bunch of vampires
with OBF, say, or a bunch of vampires with obf who you see throwing out
3 or 4 stealth cards when someone does try and block them) at all.
Ignore them. Deal with their bleeds in some other way
(Rush/Bounce/Bloat). If you can't regularly match their stealth, don't
let them cycle cards.

What this means, however, is that you have to be able to deal with
getting bled for about 3 per action all the time. Which means having
reliable bounce, or relaible Rush to torporize minions, or enough pool
gain to counteract their bleeds. And you want to avoid throwing a bunch
of Wakes in every deck, just in case, if you can't generate
intercept--trying to block, just to cycle the Wake is often going to do
more damage to you than not.

If you have reason to believe that your predator doesn't have a lot of
stealth (i.e. they are an all DOM deck that relies solely on Bonding
for the +1 stealth; they are a Viscistude based deck that isn't going
to outright kill you in combat; whatever), trying to block is usually
useful, as long as you are regular about it (i.e. don't let them build
up stealth and *that* try and block--try and block every action, and
eventually they will run out of stealth). But the old school Malk
Dom/Obf bleedzooka decks that run 30 Obfuscate cards? Don't even bother
unless you can reliably generate +3 or +4 intercept. Yeah, you might
get killed by not blocking, but you were probably going to get killed
by trying to block, and at least if you don't try to block, you have
the chance of getting to the mid game, and seeing your predator go like
"Uhh, I bleed you for one. No block? Ok. It's one. Next action. I bleed
you for one. Try and block? No? Ok. It's for one. Discard phase--I
throw out my 5th Lost In Crowds in a row..."

The result of this, however, is that if your play group notices this is
what you are doing, the S+B players will lowball the stealth in their
decks, and start killing you anyway. But that is a risk with any
strategy.

-Peter