When to put posts back on a clearcoated playfield...?

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

I should be getting back a clearcoated playfield in the next few days,
(the first one I have ever done), which I will probably leave for a
couple of months before I re-attach the wiring, ramps, mechanisms etc.

But from what I have read before I believe it may be best to fix all
the playfield posts as soon as possible, whilst the clearcoat is still
a little more flexible and so less likely to crack when they are
tightened down.

Is general opinion that this is the best way, or has anyone ever done
this and encountered a problem that I may not be aware of?

Regards,
Roger.

 

[alex]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

I'd let it cure for about two months and make sure you put washers
under the posts when installing them. Also, don't overtighten anything.
I hope that helps...

Alex

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Putting a washer underneath will just make the clear crack that furthur
out if you overtighten and will raise the post slightly so the ball
does not hit the center of the rubber....

Best advice is to not overtighten!!

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

I've not had problems doing either way.

Bill Davis actualy recomends installing everything asap since there's
less possibility for the layers of clear to separate while the
playfield is uncured. Then wait for a month or so before playing.
_That_ is definetely the hardest part

-c

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Biggest suggestion I would have is to make sure the post does not spin
when you tighten the nut under the playfield. I use a piece of rubber
and a pair of vice grips to hold the post from the top while using a
nut driver underneath to snug up the nylock nut (also make sure you use
nylocks, as this will reduce the amount you need to tighten and have
the post not come loose). For posts that screw down into t-nuts, or
screw into the playfield, there is no choice but to tightnen them from
the top and turn the post against the clear. Here just go slowly and
evenly, and watch for any bunching or tearing. If the post has a hex
base, consider using a washer under it to prevent the hex edges from
grabbing the clear.

h_h

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

I'll add my 2c here- when installing post that screw only into the wood
(any of those that don't use a t-nut or through stud / nut combo) be
sure to apply ample pressure.

If you go easy on the pressure you'll increase the chances of
vertically separating the ply layers and damaging the clear coat since
the screw will act more as a wood extruder instead of penetrating into
the playfield.

It's a balancing act that might take some practice to develop the right
feel, too much pressure and you'll risk playfield damage in other ways,
too little and you'll pop up the wood surrounding the screw holes.

Just remember to not hold your breath too long

Mike Doyle

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

> I'd let it cure for about two months and make sure you put washers
> under the posts when installing them. Also, don't overtighten anything.
> I hope that helps...

Is this what Stern does and other mfg's in the past did...wait two months?

--
Mike S.
Kalamazoo, MI

Gameroom: http://tinyurl.com/4hfev
W C S Owner's List: http://tinyurl.com/39cjo
M B Scoop Repair: http://tinyurl.com/9lfu
--------------------------------------------

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

They don't wait 2 months but its usually 2 months before they are used just
because of the manufacturing process.


--
Kerry Stair

Mantis Amusements "Its all about Pinball"


"Mike Schudel" <schudel5@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:432989af$1_1@x-privat.org...
>> I'd let it cure for about two months and make sure you put washers
>> under the posts when installing them. Also, don't overtighten anything.
>> I hope that helps...
>
> Is this what Stern does and other mfg's in the past did...wait two months?
>
> --
> Mike S.
> Kalamazoo, MI
>
> Gameroom: http://tinyurl.com/4hfev
> W C S Owner's List: http://tinyurl.com/39cjo
> M B Scoop Repair: http://tinyurl.com/9lfu
> --------------------------------------------
>
>
>

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

I've done it both ways: installed parts within a week or two of receiving the
playfield, and waited for about 3 months. I had no problems in either case.
But I'm not torquing the posts down with an air impact driver or anything; I
just get them snug to the surface and add a quarter-turn or so more.

Joseph "Tony" Dziedzic

In article <1126780591.704154.193090@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com>, "Roger
(UK)" <look@thathorse.wanadoo.co.uk> wrote:
>I should be getting back a clearcoated playfield in the next few days,
>(the first one I have ever done), which I will probably leave for a
>couple of months before I re-attach the wiring, ramps, mechanisms etc.
>
>But from what I have read before I believe it may be best to fix all
>the playfield posts as soon as possible, whilst the clearcoat is still
>a little more flexible and so less likely to crack when they are
>tightened down.
>
>Is general opinion that this is the best way, or has anyone ever done
>this and encountered a problem that I may not be aware of?
>
>Regards,
>Roger.
>

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

Thanks for the comments everyone.

I will see if I can get some really thin washers for under the hex base
ones I think.

Roger.

 

[martin]

Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (More info?)

I used hand tight + 1/4 turn. The clearcoat didn't mind that. I used a
soft-faced hammer to drive stuff into holes where the clearcoat had
reduced clearance. i would not mess with the washers, they may leave
you with a dimple and they will certainly annoy you.