[SOLVED] Where can I find the parts for this Water Cooling CPU?

Morcaster

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Jun 11, 2013
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View: https://imgur.com/a/6cSiAqF

CPU is i7-3770, SR0PK, 3.40GHZ
MB is in image

Please, I need to know what parts would be compatible and what brand this is (For Heat Sink+Valve) and if possible a link to where I can make a purchase. You can see the brand on the sink.

Left most valve is leaking and needs a replacement.
The Flat part on the right side looks like another imput/output spot, but it's not, its just the brand logo.

The tubes could also use a replacement as they are stained and looks caked on the inside.

Thank you,
Ryan
 
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Solution
For a beginner, that's quite often the wisest course. Full custom loops require extensive research into needs, wants, ability, parts etc and an understanding of what's what and how it works and the tips and tricks and knowledge of what to definitely do and not do. It can be seriously daunting and if you aren't a hands-on, mechanically adept kind of person, just the construction can get overwhelming.

And that's with a start from scratch loop where you make the choices, a retrofit where some choices are already made can be worse. I don't blame you for backpeddling and going the route of the AIO, especially if that's a locked i7-3770 not the overclock able i7-3770K. A plain jane h80i or h100i will be more than sufficient, if it is a 3770k...
View: https://imgur.com/a/6cSiAqF#Sh0OwX9


CPU is i7-3770, SR0PK, 3.40GHZ
MB is in image

Please, I need to know what parts would be compatible and what brand this is (For Heat Sink+Valve) and if possible a link to where I can make a purchase. You can see the brand on the sink.

Left most valve is leaking and needs a replacement.
The Flat part on the right side looks like another imput/output spot, but it's not, its just the brand logo.

The tubes could also use a replacement as they are stained and looks caked on the inside.

Thank you,
Ryan
 
It's a custom loop. It's pretty much a good bet that all the fittings are the same standard G1/4 fittings. So any cpu block that fits Intel lga 115x will fit just fine. It's your choice on brand/looks etc.

As far as the actual fittings themselves, that's a little bit rough. It'll all depend on the tubing diameters. They could be 10/13mm (inner/outer) or 10/16mm or 13/19mm etc.

But that's not even the hard part. If you also replace the tubing, you'll need to know what size that is first, because for each section of tubing there's 2 fittings, one on each end. That means wherever that tubing is going will have a fitting attached, so if you get a different diameter tube, you'll need a fitting to fit that too.

With barb style fittings, outer diameter isn't usually a worry, it's only the internal that's important, those barbs need to be tight to avoid leakage, but not so tight as to allow the tubing to split or leak. But, that's just barb fittings. If there's also barb with compression ring, then outer diameter becomes important as well.

Retro-fitting someone else's loop isn't usually easy, it's usually a pain in the... unless you have an assortment of stuff on-hand.

If it were up to me, I'd replace all of it, every fitting, all the tubing, keeping just the expensive parts like the pump and rads and gpu block.

One thing else you'll need to know is the loop composition. Is it a copper or aluminium based loop. You will need to stick to whichever it is with cpu block and fittings, copper/brass mixed with aluminium creates galvanic corrosion in the coolant and that'll get to be a mess is a very short time. You'll get leaks, holes in rad pipes, pump failures etc.
 
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It's a custom loop. It's pretty much a good bet that all the fittings are the same standard G1/4 fittings.

It'll all depend on the tubing diameters. They could be 10/13mm (inner/outer) or 10/16mm or 13/19mm etc.

With barb style fittings, outer diameter isn't usually a worry, it's only the internal that's important, those barbs need to be tight to avoid leakage, but not so tight as to allow the tubing to split or leak. But, that's just barb fittings. If there's also barb with compression ring, then outer diameter becomes important as well.


**
"So the part this is leaking is actually the fitting "Valve" It's self, not the tubing, I testst this more by putting water into the block and covering one side with my thumb and blowing on the other end, the result was that the fitting "Valve" was leaking AT the part where you Twist tight to the Hardpoint of the block, (Not the block hardpoint it's self"
**

If it were up to me, I'd replace all of it, every fitting, all the tubing, keeping just the expensive parts like the pump and rads and gpu block
^^^^ This

One thing else you'll need to know is the loop composition. Is it a copper or aluminium based loop. You will need to stick to whichever it is with cpu block and fittings, copper/brass mixed with aluminium creates galvanic corrosion in the coolant and that'll get to be a mess is a very short time. You'll get leaks, holes in rad pipes, pump failures etc.

So I want to replace the fittings and tubes. But my main concern should be the tube size and the loop material composition? Is there a way we can find this out?
There is a silver coil I want to place in the Res/pump, and just replace the liquid with distilled water.

Anyway, whats the next step, after I desired replacing all the tubes and fittings?
So I may also be in contact with the person who made this loop, so this may help a lot. We'll see, It's been years.
 
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For a beginner, that's quite often the wisest course. Full custom loops require extensive research into needs, wants, ability, parts etc and an understanding of what's what and how it works and the tips and tricks and knowledge of what to definitely do and not do. It can be seriously daunting and if you aren't a hands-on, mechanically adept kind of person, just the construction can get overwhelming.

And that's with a start from scratch loop where you make the choices, a retrofit where some choices are already made can be worse. I don't blame you for backpeddling and going the route of the AIO, especially if that's a locked i7-3770 not the overclock able i7-3770K. A plain jane h80i or h100i will be more than sufficient, if it is a 3770k and you want to push some OC, then a 240mm-280mm will be good.

I would suggest you slap the pump and rad/s on ebay though, they aren't cheap, so should get you a few $ back. No point in letting that go to waste since they'll not be used.
 
Solution
The CPU is already being overclocked. But Now I'am looking for a product to best suit my needs. Thank you for your help!
Was looking at this: https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categ...uid-CPU-Cooler/p/CW-9060033-WW#tab-tech-specs

This is the case I have: https://www.coolermaster.com/catalog/cases/full-tower/haf-x/

Unfortunately I may want a new case as well, but taking off the side fan on the side panel fixed my issue with my GPU not fitting. All is well.

Please let me know if you have any concerns with my choices.
 
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HAF stands for High Air Flow, and the X was definitely that, those are some huge fans it'll mount, 3x 200mm and a 230mm intake. What it really wasn't designed for was liquid cooling. There's 1 spot to fit an AIO and thats up top for a 240mm rad, which is kinda jacked for such a large case, but that's 2010 for ya.

The H100i Pro fits.

The primary design was for E-ATX mobo's and large air coolers, so that case has tons of space for such, psu shrouds, gpu tunnels etc.

It's still a popular case, because of its airflow potential, but all that mesh and gimmicky removable filters makes it a pain for dust. So whether you'd want to downsize to a regular mid-tower with far better mounting options for an AIO, nicer looking tempered glass instead of the fan mount and small acrylic window etc is up to you. It's really a personal choice.

Me, I'd sell it, I have a fractal design R5, I love it, but it's also a huge case, and with the mITX I'm looking at, the small size of modern gpus etc, it's really nothing but a serious damper on desktop real estate.
 
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