Which thermal compound should i use?

Mortem420

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Feb 12, 2017
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I have an Arctic Cooler Alpine 11 Rev.2 in my PC and when i installed it i just left the MX-2 thermal compound that was already on there cause i didn't want to waste the thermal compound if i didn't have to. However, when i was buying all the parts for my PC i also got a tube of Arctic Silver 5 thermal grease to re-apply thermal grease on the CPU and GPU in my old HP desktop and also for in case i needed it for my new PC build. So now its about 6 months after Ive installed the arctic cooler alpine and my idle temps will sit around 35-37 degrees celcius, but when i game the temp sometimes gets as high as 70-75 degrees. Should i just leave the MX-2 on there or should i try the Arctic Silver 5.

Side note: I at one point had uninstalled and reinstalled the arctic cooler alpine because it was not installled how the instructions showed (I had to turn it 90 degrees one way). Im not even sure if that even mattered im just OCD. But would have removing it and then reinstalling it caused the MX-2 to not work as well??
 

Ok. I thought so. I'm just too lazy and too busy to do it but i guess i should whenever i get a chance. I dont want to burn out my CPU or something before i even get a chance to overclock. Would the Arctic Silver 5 be a good choice to use or should i just buy a new, different tube of thermal grease??
 
If i were to decide that the AS5 doesn't quite preform how i want it to, what would be a good thermal grease to try after that?? Cause theres just so many different thermal compounds out there i have no clue. I actually didn't even know that thermal grease was a thing that you had to do until a few years ago
 
Well i may just buy a bunch of different kinds and do some testing myself to see what works best for me. But ill try the AS5. Then ill probaby get some MX4 because common logic would dictate that the MX4 would be better than the MX2 because the number is higher. Anyone know how well the IC Diamond, Arctic Silver ceramique, and Noctua pastes work
 

I was actually just reading this article 😛 Quite a good read that seems to be very well thought out and written for helping to choose a thermal paste. After Reading it, it seems that the AS5 or MX-4 would be best for me
 
Though it has very good thermal properties ... eventually, I don't use Artic Silver. In addition to cost, the reasons why are on AS5s web site:

http://www.arcticsilver.com/as5.htm

Arctic Silver 5 was formulated to conduct heat, not electricity.
(While much safer than electrically conductive silver and copper greases, Arctic Silver 5 should be kept away from electrical traces, pins, and leads. While it is not electrically conductive, the compound is very slightly capacitive and could potentially cause problems if it bridges two close-proximity electrical paths.)

Due to the unique shape and sizes of the particles in Arctic Silver 5's conductive matrix, it will take a up to 200 hours and several thermal cycles to achieve maximum particle to particle thermal conduction and for the heatsink to CPU interface to reach maximum conductivity. (This period will be longer in a system without a fan on the heatsink or with a low speed fan on the heatsink.) On systems measuring actual internal core temperatures via the CPU's internal diode, the measured temperature will often drop 2C to 5C over this "break-in" period. This break-in will occur during the normal use of the computer as long as the computer is turned off from time to time and the interface is allowed to cool to room temperature. Once the break-in is complete, the computer can be left on if desired.

At the typical 30 hours per week, that's 7 weeks. I don't want to wait 7 weeks to dial in my OCs, the limits of which are based upon temps and the ability of the cooler / TIM to stay below desired limits. I also don't want to worry about excess TIM being squeezed out of a lil drip falling somewhere unseen and causing problems.

Shin Etsu G751 has the same thermal properties, cost half as much, cures in minutes and is not capacitive.

http://pcpartpicker.com/product/mDPfrH/masscool-thermal-paste-g751

That being said, if you already spent the money ...

Questions:

1. Are you saying that a) the cooler came with a pre-applied paste (solid at room temperature) and you left it on .... or b) are you saying the cooler was used for some time in another installation and then you took it off and reused the old paste.

a) i just fine
b) was a no-no

2. If you were installing the cooler and re-oriented it while paste was still wet and machine was not booted, chances are you are just fine as long as both surfaces still had it spread evenly and you placed it in a manner so as not to trap any air bubbles.

Not saying that it isn't a better idea to re-apply in these instances, just saying that I have seen it done a few times w/o any real impact on performance. It is however certainly possible. Even with fresh clean installs we can see 2-3c variations which is why users will typically do 3-5 installs and report the average.

One time the user mounted the cooler in standard blow to rear position using IGP and turned on machine just to get into BIOS ... he spent a few minutes in there and happened to take note of CPU temp.

The box wound up on my bench an hour later when he brought it over because it was a 4 PCI slot MoBo and when he went to install the 2 GFX cards, the top card was hitting the cooler. He didn't have any more TIM, but while he was here he wanted to make sure everything fit so I watched him uninstall / reinstall the cooler (fans blowing up) and the cards went in just fine . He turned on and looked in BIOS to make sure everything was "seen" properly and he commented the BIOS temp was same.

After giving him the speech about replacing TIM, he left with the mindset that he was going to order some Shin Etsu and reinstall.... but anxiousness got the best of him and he installed the OS ... and then anxiousness took hold again and he installed a game. That was 2 years ago and he still hasn't gotten around to using the tube of Shin Etsu. He's got a 4.7 Ghz OC on it and temps are in the 70s.

So yes it **can** work just fine ... I doubt that would have been the case if he had taken the box thru several thermal cycles or heated it up to any significant temperature...as it was the paste was still "wet" and pliable.

Seen few more instances where dropped screws, access to wire sockets or headers required reseating and where wiping clean was not an option but these were after only a few seconds to few minutes and no ill effects were observed. OTOH in one instance with a prolimatech, user was thinking "Hot Air rises" and installed cooler blowing up ... then when looking to see how his temps stood up, he found out the prolimatech recommended a "to rear" orientation stating a 2-3C improvement. He reinstalled w/o changing TIM .. after 3-4 days of usage and his temps went up 2C. Hard to say what contributed how much to what but after the reinstallation "to rear", cleaning and application of with Shin Etsu... he was down 6-7C

3. Is the CPU overclocked ?


 
I read online that apparently for the AS5 you are supposed to warm it up or something before you apply it. Is this something that is absolutely necessary or does it just make application easier??
 
I also found another guide that gets into many other choices.

http://overclocking.guide/thermal-paste-roundup-2015-47-products-tested-with-air-cooling-and-liquid-nitrogen-ln2/

As well as a very recent article that tests quite a few you listed above.

http://www.computermonger.com/the-best-thermal-paste-for-cpu-cooling/
 

To answer you questions:
1. The cooler was brand new and came pre-applied with dried paste on it.

2. Not really a question more of a statement and advice. But when i was re-positioning the cooler either a small bit of the pre-applied paste came off with the heatsink when i took it off or the other way around meaning that when i took it off a small bit of the paste was stuck to the CPU (i cant remember which specifically, it was a while ago) but basically theres a possibilty that a little bit on the corner of the cpu has very little or no paste.

3. My CPU is not overclocked right now but I have found a stable 4.1GHz overclock for my C2D E8600, so like nothing is glitching or freaking out, however my temps just run too high when idle and way too high when im gaming. as idle my temps will me like 45C at the lowest and then can spike up to like 85 or higher under full load sometimes. average full load temps are more around 80. Withough overclock my idle temps are around 35-37 degrees and with MSI Kombuster CPU burner running my temp stops rising at around 57-58C and with prime95 Torture test running my temps will stop rising at around 58-59C. Also this whole time i have all my controllable case fans on full speed and my cooler fan is also running full speed
 
So i guess ill just be trying the AS5 first. Then buy some tubes of MX4, Gelid Solutions GC-Extreme, and AS Ceramique 2. And i might try the Phobya LM cause the reviews I've seen are pretty good
 
I would be very careful with liquid metal pastes (such as the Phobya LM) as they are conductive and leakage and/or drippage onto the motherboard can cause shorts. It also appears from what I read that using many of the liquid metal pastes is not recommended with aluminum heatsinks. Also, upon hardening, they appear to almost 'fuse' the heatsink to the cpu, making removal of the heatsink near impossible.

The Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut seems to get quite high reviews, and is supposed to be a top performer for non liquid metal pastes.

Just things to consider 😉
 


At 58C, you obviously have no issue with the TIM

Here's the best TIM comparison I have seen over the years and tho its a bit old, the only things of significance I'd consider is the top end Grizzly product. It tops my perrennial favs (Shin Etsu for CPus / Gelid Extreme for GPHs) by a fraction of a degree in some tests but it is expensive

http://archive.benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=150&Itemid=62

And in a similar vein, here's the best TIM application article I have read to date:

http://archive.benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=170&Itemid=38&limitstart=5



 

Ok well good to know that at 58C i dont have to worry and that it seems like the MX-2 that was pre-applied is sill working fine. Thats kind of what i figured is that at stock clock speed i wouldnt go any higher than like 60C. I actually managed to do a 10% overclock to a 366MHz FSB speed. I ran OCCT last night for 2 hours and my temps only maxed out at 69C, which i feel is safe enough so im happy with that till i get a better cooler. I know that 2 hours may seem kind of short for a cpu stress test but i only have my pc out of sleep mode like a few hours at a time and i only get to game like a few hours at a time during the day and not even every day cause im a single father of a one year old and dont get as much time on my pc as id like 😛
 
http://www.arcticsilver.com/pdf/appmeth/int/vl/intel_app_method_vertical_line_v1.1.pdf

I was just reading this which says that the best way to apply Arctic Silver 5 to a Core 2 Duo is with a vertical line. But i thought that entire top surface of the cpu should have a layer of TIM on it. Any thought on this?? The whole controversy about how to apply thermal paste is kind of annoying and confusing and it seems like noone has an actual 100% set answer for it