Windows 10 Shutdown and Temperature Issues

[aaronpthomas42]

Since a couple months back, my system has been unusable due to it blacking out a few minutes after I boot into Windows 10. This has happened with both Home and Home N.

A bit of background:
I started experiencing frequent blue-screens with Windows 7. When I decided to try to install Windows 10, the system blacked out upon restart, in the 'Setting up devices' loading before login. When I succesfully installed Windows using my friend's computer, it started blacking out a minute or two after login.
I have experienced occasional complete system shutdown in the past, but with nowhere approaching this frequency.
The system will not die if you leave it in the BIOS. It will only die after boot to Windows.

Everything except my motherboard and CPU have been tested in a friend's computer and are working.

In addition to this, my CPU always and without fail reads exactly 80.0 degrees C, even immediately after boot from a two week holiday. This is present both in the BIOS and in temperature checkers in Windows.


I am at my wit's end. What do I need to replace, fix or do something to so that I can actually use my computer? And could it be the temperature reading that is causing it?


Specs:

CPU - AMD fx-8350 8-core at 4Ghz (stock)
CPU Cooler - Seidon 120V Plus. The pump and fan seem to be working.
GPU - MSI GTX 970, stock
RAM - 2x4GB HyperX 1600 Mhz
Mobo - Gigabyte GA-970A-D3P (rev. 1.0), BIOS version F3 (this is the original BIOS and I have not flashed it)
Storage - Samsung 850 Evo 120 GB SSD
PSU - Thermaltake 550W 80+ Bronze

 

[Jwpanz]

80C while just in the BIOS is way too high. Your idle temps for the FX 8350 should hover somewhere in the mid 40’s. This points to your cooler not doing it’s job.

I would try replacing that cooler. You can grab a decent, yet cost effective, air cooler to get your temps down. Perhaps a Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo or equivalent.

 

[aaronpthomas42]

80C while just in the BIOS is way too high. Your idle temps for the FX 8350 should hover somewhere in the mid 40’s. This points to your cooler not doing it’s job.

I would try replacing that cooler. You can grab a decent, yet cost effective, air cooler to get your temps down. Perhaps a Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo or equivalent.

The cooler is not the problem. I have stated that there is no fluctuation in the temperature - none at all, not even a single tenth of a degree. The temperature of 80 is present even immediately after booting when the computer has been unplugged for two weeks, and is rock steady at 80. The case, cooling pump and the mobo all do not feel close to 80 degrees. The pump and fan on the cooler seem to be working.

 

[Jwpanz]

Ah, well if you’re certain that the cooler is fine then that temperature readout must be the result of a faulty temperature sensor within either your motherboard or CPU. My guess is the motherboard is at fault here.

 

[aaronpthomas42]

Ah, well if you’re certain that the cooler is fine then that temperature readout must be the result of a faulty temperature sensor within either your motherboard or CPU. My guess is the motherboard is at fault here.

Sorry for asking, but why do you think it is the motherboard? (I also suspect the mobo, but if it's not it will be expensive to replace the CPU as well, if I purchase another motherboard.)

 

[Jwpanz]

Faulty CPU’s will usually not even allow the PC to POST or even allow the system to enter BIOS. Your system would power on and the motherboard would indicate an issue with the CPU via an LED light.

Again, if you are 100% positive that your cooler is fine then I’m leaning much more toward a faulty motherboard. CPU’s are one of the more reliable components of your PC and if they become faulty then you would either not be able to post or you would receive an actual BSOD and not just a black screen. Motherboards are much more prone to errors and damage.

 

[AndrewBC]

I agree that it is probably the mobo. As a last resort you can try updating the BIOS and see if that fixes it.

 

[aaronpthomas42]

I will try flashing my BIOS then, doesn't really matter if it fails if I have to get a new one. One thing though, should I flash to a beta version, or the last non-beta version?

 

[Jwpanz]

Try the non-beta first