[SOLVED] Would a EVGA 700BR dual 2+6pin cable be enough for a ROG Strix RTX 2060 ?

May 27, 2019
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I am currently working with a EVGA 700BR Bronze and I noticed it comes with a single dual 6+2pin cable:
https://images.evga.com/products/gallery/100-BR-0700-K1_XL_3.jpg

I was thinking on buying a ROG Strix RTX 2060 to ensure having everything as cool as possible:
https://www.asus.com/media/global/products/Nn2KKBWdUEUqttco/P_setting_000_1_90_end_500.png

I checked the specs and it requires one 6pin source and one 8pin source, I have no plans for overclocking it, would it be enough for playing just an average of 60fps games such as Battlefield V or Metro Redux?

Just in case here are my specs:
-Asus Prime A320m-k
-Corsair Vengeance LPX 8gb (2)
-Ryzen 3 2200G (using my Vega 8 right now)
-Windows 10 Pro
-wd10ezex-08wn4a0 1tb

Also I plan to buy a Cooler Master MB500 case as my current one seems to lack good ventilation.

Any advice please?
 
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Solution
No. If the card requires both PCI cables, 6 pin and 8 pin, then that is what you HAVE to use. You can't just use only one or the other because you don't plan to overclock. That is what is required for the card to work.

You need a better power supply, but not JUST because of that. That is a low quality unit, not good enough to be recommended for use with a high powered gaming card like that.

This is the least expensive unit that I'd personally recommend for use with that graphics cards.

PCPartPicker Part List

Power Supply: SeaSonic - FOCUS Gold 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply ($51.98 @ Newegg)
Total: $51.98
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by...
No. If the card requires both PCI cables, 6 pin and 8 pin, then that is what you HAVE to use. You can't just use only one or the other because you don't plan to overclock. That is what is required for the card to work.

You need a better power supply, but not JUST because of that. That is a low quality unit, not good enough to be recommended for use with a high powered gaming card like that.

This is the least expensive unit that I'd personally recommend for use with that graphics cards.

PCPartPicker Part List

Power Supply: SeaSonic - FOCUS Gold 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply ($51.98 @ Newegg)
Total: $51.98
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-07-01 02:40 EDT-0400
 
Solution
Yea its a single cable that then end with 2 x 6+2 pin pcie cable most evga psu are like that. I own evga 650 gq v2 and with that cable i power rtx 2080 that have an 8pin and 6pin connector. You wont have any problem at all. I think the reason they do this is just for cable managment is better to have one cable that end with 2 x 6+2 pcie rather than two separate cables.
 
Yes, that unit has two 6+2 pins, and that WILL work fine for that card. You simply don't use the other two pins on one of the connectors, but that is still not a very good unit and I'd advise replacing it with one better suited for the demands of the system. The fact that it is a 700w model means very little especially since it's 700w rated at 30°C, not 40 or 50°C like any decent quality reliable unit would be.

This is an entry level, budget power supply. It uses poor quality 3rd tier capacitors. It's just not a good unit. If you value the rest of the hardware you would be doing yourself, and your hardware a favor by looking at moving to something with much higher quality like an EVGA GQ, G2, G3, Seasonic Focus Plus, Prime, Corsair TX, RM, HX, Antec High current gamer, etc.

Let's start with the biggest misconception out there, which is that if a unit has high watts it will be ok or is good. Well, that couldn't be further from the truth.

There are plenty of 750-1000w units out there that I wouldn't trust to power a light bulb and might in fact be more dangerous due to their supposedly high capacity due to poor or non-existent protections inside the unit.

If the platform isn't good to begin with, how many watts or amps it says it can support is irrelevant.

Higher 80plus certification doesn't mean anything, UNLESS it is a PSU platform that we already know is good anyhow. For example, a Seasonic Prime platinum unit is going to be a better product than a Seasonic Prime Gold unit, because we already know the Prime platform is very good, and platinum efficiency along with it shows there are some improvements internally to account for the higher efficiency.

In a case like that, it might be worth it. It's likely the unit will create less heat, it will probably have better performance in regard to ripple, noise and voltage regulation. It might shave a few pennies, or dollars, off the electric bill over the course of a year.

Other than that, it is not going to perform any better than the same platform with Gold efficiency. On the other hand, just because a unit has Titanium 80plus ratings doesn't mean the unit is any good at all. For example, there are Raidmax units with Titanium efficiency and I wouldn't trust one of those to power a light bulb. There are a lot of units like this out there.

If the platform isn't good to begin with, whether or not it has an 80plus certification or not is irrelevant.

Whatever you do, don't EVER buy a power supply based on whether it has RGB or lighting, or looks like it might be a quality unit. Some of the biggest hunks of junk out there look just as good as a Seasonic Prime Ultra Titanium, but I assure you, they are not. So far there are very few very good units out there that have RGB built in. Maybe one or two models, but rest assured you'll be be paying for the lighting, not for the quality of the power supply.

I don't know what country you reside in, and I know that sometimes it's hard to come by good units in some regions, but when possible, when it comes time to get that PSU, I'd stick to the following if you can.

Seasonic. Seasonic isn't just a brand, they are a PSU manufacturer, unlike many of the PSU brands you see they make their own power supply platforms AND a great many of the very good PSU models out there from other brands like Antec, Corsair and older XFX are made by Seasonic.

Just about anything made by Seasonic is good quality for the most part. There are really no bad Seasonic units and only a very few that are even somewhat mediocre. They do make a few less-good quality OEM style units, but mostly those are not going to be units you come across at most vendors, and they are still not bad. Also, the S12II and M12II 520 and 620w units are older, group regulated models. At one time they were among the best units you could buy. Now, they are outdated and not as good as almost any other Seasonic models. They are however still better than a LOT of newer designs by other manufacturers.

The Seasonic 520w and 620w S12II/M12II units CAN be used on newer Intel platforms, if you turn off C6/C7 in the bios, but I'd really recommend a newer platform whenever possible. Prices are usually pretty good on those though, so sometimes it's worth accepting the lack of DC-DC on the internal platform. Higher capacity versions of the High current gamer are not based on that platform, so they are fine. Those being the 750w and higher versions.

Most common currently, in order of preference, would be the Seasonic Focus series, then Focus plus, then Prime, then Prime ultra. It's worth mentioning that there are generally Gold, Platinum and Titanium versions within each, or most, of those series, but that does not necessarily mean that a Focus plus Platinum is necessarily better than a Prime Gold. It only means that it scored better in the 80plus efficiency testing, not that the platform is better.

Again, don't let yourself get tangled up in the idea that a higher 80plus rating specifically means that it is a better unit than another one with a lower rating, unless you know that it is a good platform from the start. All these Focus and Prime units are pretty good so you can somewhat focus on the 80plus rating when deciding which of them to choose.

Super Flower. Super Flower is another PSU manufacturer. They are like Seasonic and they make power supplies for a variety of other companies, like EVGA. Super Flower units are usually pretty good. I'd stick to the Leadex, Leadex II and Golden Green models.They also make most of the good units sold by EVGA like the G2, G3, P2 and T2 models.

Super Flower doesn't have a very broad availability for the units with their own brand name on them, and are not available in a lot of countries but for those where there is availability you want to look at the Leadex and Leadex II models. The Golden green platform is fairly decent too but is getting rather long in the tooth as a platform AND I've seen some reviews indicating a few shortcomings on units based on this platform.

Even so, it's a great deal better than a lot of other platforms out there so you could certainly do worse than a Golden green model. Units based on the Leadex and Leadex II platforms are much better though.

Corsair. The CX and CXm units are ok as a budget option, but I do not recommend pairing them with gaming cards. The newer 2017 models of CX and CXm are better than the older ones, but still not what we'd call terrific, so if it specifically says 2017 model, or it has a capacity other than an even 100, like 550w, 650w, 750w, etc., then it's likely at least better than those older ones. Aside from that, any of the TX, RMx, RMi, HX, HXi, AX or AXi units are good. Those are listed from best to worst, with the best being the AX and AXi units.

Antec. The True power classic units are made by Seasonic, and are very good, but are not modular. The High current gamer 520w and 620w, or any other PSU you see on the market that is 520w or 620w, are also made by Seasonic, based on the S12II and M12II platform for modern versions, and are pretty good units but again they are an older platform that is group regulated so if you go with a Haswell or newer Intel configuration you will want to avoid those because they do not support the C6/C7 Intel low power states.

The Antec High current gamer 750w and 850w units are very good and are not the older design, which came in 520w and 620w capacities and were good for back then but again, are an aging Seasonic platform that is not the best choice most of the time these days. Occasionally, these older units MIGHT be the best unit available and you could do worse than one of them, but a newer DC-DC platform is desirable when possible if it doesn't mean sacrificing quality elsewhere in the platform. There are however older and newer HCG models, so exact model number will likely be a factor if choosing one of these however both the older models and the newer models are good.

Antec Edge units are ok too, but reviews indicate that they have noisy fan profiles. I'd only choose this model if it is on sale or the aesthetics match up with your color scheme or design. Still a good power supply but maybe a little aggressive on the fan profile. This may have been cured on newer Edge models so reading professional tear down reviews is still the best idea.

Antec Earthwatts Gold units are very good also.

BeQuiet. BeQuiet does have a few decent models, BUT, you must be VERY selective about which of their models you put your trust in. From model to model their are huge differences in both quality and performance, even with the same series. If you cannot find a review for a BeQuiet unit on HardOCP, JonnyGuru or Tom's hardware that SPECIFICALLY says it is a very good unit, and does not have any significant issues in the "cons" category, I would avoid it. In fact, I'd probably avoid it anyhow unless there is a very great sale on one that has good reviews, because their units are generally more expensive than MUCH better units from Antec, Seasonic, EVGA and Corsair.

EVGA. They have BOTH good and not very good models.

Not very good are the W1, N1, B1, B3 (Most models failed testing), BQ, BR, BT and G1 NEX models.

Good models are the B2, G2, G2L, G3, GQ, P2 and T2 models.

FSP. They used to be very mediocre, and are a PSU manufacturer like Seasonic and Super Flower, although not as well trusted based on historical performance. Currently the FSP Hydro G and Hydro X units are pretty good.

I would avoid Thermaltake and Cooler Master.

They do have a few good units, but most of the models they sell are either poor or mediocre, and the ones they have that ARE good are usually way overpriced.

This is just ONE example of why I say that. Very new and modern CM unit. One of the worst scores ever seen on JonnyGuru for a well known brand name product. Doesn't look to be much better than a Raidmax unit. Sad.

Cooler Master Masterwatt Lite 600W review

And most of the models I have linked to the reviews of at the following link are at least good, with most of them being fantastic.

Power supply discussion thread

The Powerspec units sold my Microcenter are a mixed bag. Some of them are fairly decent using the same platform as the Sirfa High power astro lite platform, so not total dumpster fire type units, but not particularly good either, and some of their units are simply garbage and should be listed below in the DO NOT USE category, but I'm leaving them out because there are really no reviews of them and since there are a few units from them that are ok-ish, I'm giving them a "use at your own discretion but buy a better model if you can" grade.

A gray label CX or CXm unit would probably be an upgrade from one of those Powerspec models, without any doubt.

Certainly there ARE some good units out there that you won't see above among those I've listed, but they are few and far between, much as a hidden nugget of gold you find in a crevice among otherwise ordinary rocks and don't EVER assume a unit is good just because of the brand.

If you cannot find an IN DEPTH, REPUTABLE review on Tom's hardware, JonnyGuru, HardOCP, Hardware secrets (Old reviews by Gabe Torres), Kitguru (Only Aris reviews), TechPowerUP, SilentPC crew or a similar site that does much more than simply a review of the unboxing and basic tests that don't include reliable results for ripple, noise, voltage regulation and a complete teardown of the unit including identification of the internal platform, then the unit is a big fat question mark.

I recommend not trusting such units as companies generally always send out review samples of any unit they feel is going to get a good review, and don't send them out if they know they are going to get hammered by the reviewer. No review usually equals poor quality. Usually.


Other models that should never be trusted OR USED AT ALL, under any circumstances, include

A-Top, AK Power, Alpine, Apevia, Apex (Supercase/Allied), Artic, Ace, Aerocool (There might be one model worth using, but I'd still avoid them.), Aspire (Turbocase), Atadc, Atrix, Broadway com corp, Chieftech, Circle, CIT, Coolmax, Deer, Diablotek, Dynapower, Dynex, Eagletech, Enlight, Eurotech, Evo labs, EZ cool, Feedtek, Foxconn, G7, HEC/Compucase Orion, HEDY, High power, iBall, iStar computer co., Jeantec, JPac, Just PC, Kolink, LC Power, Linkworld electronics, Logisys, Macron, MSI, NmediaPC, Norwood Micro (CompUSA), Okia, Powercool, Powmax, Pulsepower, Q-tec, Raidmax, Rave, Rocketfish, Segotep, SFC, Sharkoon, Shuttle, Skyhawk, Spire, Startech, Storm, Sumvision, Tesla, Trust, Ultra, Wintech, Winpower, Xilence (Until I see a reputable review of a model showing different), xTreme (Cyberpower), Youngbear and Zebronics.
 
Well here are the available options in my region, that store is close home and it actually shows an average of what is available here, for what you say none of them look quite encouraging:

https://translate.google.com.pe/translate?hl=es&tab=rT&sl=auto&tl=en&u=https://www.mesajilhnos.com/tipos/181/fuentes

I would rather buy anything through normal retail, since sending a PSU to Peru may cost like 20% of the product cost and in case of problems RMA may cost me about 60 dollars in delivery expenses through DHL.
 
The best unit for you, on that list, is probably the Seasonic S12II 520w model. That is the highest quality model aside from the other Seasonic model listed there with 1300w, which obviously you don't need. I don't understand why so many countries have very modern power supplies available, but only the crappy models by a certain brand when it would be just as easy to carry decent quality models by those brands. If you can carry an EVGA BR or BT unit, there is no reason they couldn't also have the G2 or G3 available. If they have a Seasonic Prime 1300w model available, there is no reason they should not have a 550w Focus plus available as well.

Makes no sense, but whatever.
 
Well yeah, it seems like they ran out of stock, sadly Seasonic doesn't seem to be available over here, you see lots of Cooler Master, Thermaltake and EVGA, although most of my gamer friends haven't had problems despite our city being in the middle of a desert which is very hot in summer and becoming very dank in winter, funnily enough my previous PSU was a Super Talent Atomic Juice PS-700 which lasted for 5 years in combination with a Radeon HD7850 without never giving me an issue aside from a time I got a fried RAM memory.

A few months ago the old card started to fail, I replaced it with a RX580 and during two weeks I got my 1080p 50fps, then one early autumn morning it died while I was playing Total Warhammer 2 (very resource intensive game), I have been discarding culprits and right now I believe it was due a combination of overheating and faulty components, I don't think it was a surge peak as my rig is plugged to a FVR 1202 automatic voltage regulator, and since nothing else died at home I guess no current or voltage accident was involved. On the other hand I discovered my case, a MasterBox Lite 3.1, is very bad at dissipating heat when it comes to high-end GPUs, and I noticed when playing the side of the case would get hot despite being perpendicular to the graphic card.

Nowadays I have had a new problem, my PC froze when playing a Youtube video, I read it was due hardware acceleration not going well with the integrated Vega 8, so I turned it off and didn't have any problem until 2 weeks later I got a new system freeze while watching a video in Windows Media Player after using my PC for 6 hours, I have turned the hardware acceleration off in that one two and ran a memory test, memory appeared ok, also I checked CPU temperature, it's 25 °C when using Chrome, 30°C when playing old games like Command and Conquer 3 and MW3 in max settings (60fps), and it gets up to 45°C when running Total Warhammer 2 in low settings (45fps), it's the same temperature I get in the GPU, which makes sense since Vega 8 is an integrated card.

Not a single crash when playing videogames, the worst I got was a sudden stop for 2 or 3 seconds when launching a nuclear missile while targeting a support power in Command and Conquer 3. I have had the multiple Radeon Settings icons issue, that has happened a couple of times, the last the same day I got the Windows Media Player crash.
 
Here are the models you want to try to find.

EVGA - G2, G3, GQ, P2, T2. The rest, meh.

Corsair - TX, RM, HX, AX, if absolutely necessary, you could get by with a gray label CX but NOT a green label CX, those are older and much crappier. The rest, VS, etc., are junk. Actually, the Corsair Vengeance models are not too bad and are generally EU available. In fact, those were primarily EU and upper European models only for a while there I think. I'd take a Vengeance Corsair unit over a lot of other budget models.

Antec - True power classic, High current gamer

Super Flower - Leadex, Leadex II, Golden green.

FSP - Hydro X, Hydro G. The rest, meh, at least mostly.

Seasonic - S12II, M12II (Both group regulated but ok for non-Intel Haswell or newer platforms, if it's the best you can find), Focus, Focus plus, Prime, G series, X series,

Thermaltake - Toughpower grand. The rest, less than meh.

Cooler master - Eh, I'd take a pass on any of their units. They are mostly all pretty sucky or WAY overpriced.

If your case is getting hot, you need to add some case cooling fans. Please describe in detail your case cooling fan arrangement including number of fans, locations where they are installed and which way EACH fan is blowing, intake or exhaust.

If you have not done so yet, I'd do all of these especially the CLEAN install of the graphics drivers.

If there are any steps listed here that you have not already done, it would be advisable to do so if for no other reason than to be able to say you've already done it and eliminate that possibility.



First,

make sure your motherboard has the MOST recent BIOS version installed. If it does not, then update. This solves a high number of issues even in cases where the release that is newer than yours makes no mention of improving graphics card or other hardware compatibility. They do not list every change they have made when they post a new BIOS release.


Second,

go to the product page for your motherboard on the manufacturer website. Download and install the latest driver versions for the chipset, storage controllers, audio and network adapters. Do not skip installing a newer driver just because you think it is not relevant to the problem you are having. The drivers for one device can often affect ALL other devices and a questionable driver release can cause instability in the OS itself. They don't release new drivers just for fun. If there is a new driver release for a component, there is a good reason for it. The same goes for BIOS updates.


IF you have other hardware installed or attached to the system that are not a part of the systems covered by the motherboard drivers, then go to the support page for THAT component and check to see if there are newer drivers available for that as well. If there are, install them.


Third,

Make sure your memory is running at the correct advertised speed in the BIOS. This may require that you set the memory to run at the XMP profile settings. Also, make sure you have the memory installed in the correct slots and that they are running in dual channel which you can check by installing CPU-Z and checking the Memory tab. For all modern motherboards that are dual channel memory architectures, from the last ten years at least, if you have two sticks installed they should be in the A2 (Called DDR4_1 on some boards) or B2 (Called DDR4_2 on some boards) which are ALWAYS the SECOND and FOURTH slots over from the CPU socket, counting TOWARDS the edge of the motherboard EXCEPT on boards that only have two memory slots total. In that case, if you have two modules it's not rocket science, but if you have only one, then install it in the A1 or DDR4_1 slot.


Fourth,

Make sure the problem is not just a bad cable or the wrong cable IF this is a no display issue. If it is NOT related to a lack of display signal, then skip to the next step.

This happens a lot. Try a different cable or a different TYPE of cable. Sometimes there can be issues with the monitor or card not supporting a specific specification such as HDMI 1.4 vs HDMI 2.0, or even an HDMI output stops working but the Displayport or DVI output still works fine on the graphics card. Always worth checking the cable and trying other cables because cables get run over, bent, bent pins or simply were cheap quality to begin with and something as simple as trying a different cable or different monitor might be all that is required to solve your issue.


The last thing we want to look at,

for now anyhow, is the graphics card drivers. Regardless of whether you "already installed the newest drivers" for your graphics card or not, it is OFTEN a good idea to do a CLEAN install of the graphics card drivers. Just installing over the old drivers OR trying to use what Nvidia and AMD consider a clean install is not good enough and does not usually give the same result as using the Display Driver Uninstaller utility. This has a very high success rate and is always worth a shot.


If you have had both Nvidia and AMD cards installed at any point on that operating system then you will want to run the DDU twice. Once for the old card drivers (ie, Nvidia or AMD) and again for the currently installed graphics card drivers (ie, AMD or Nvidia). So if you had an Nvidia card at some point in the past, run it first for Nvidia and then after that is complete, run it again for AMD if you currently have an AMD card installed.

 
That's a long list of things to do, some news, I made two additional tests, first I got a PSU tester to see if the cables were working, seems like everything is fine, both in the old PSU and the current one gave 12v or a bit more in the CPU connector and the 6+2 pin cables although true be told I didn't see how to test the +2 part of the cable since the plugs were only for 6 pins, so at least it may work ok while I find one of the PSUs your are suggesting, additionally I made some testing with Valley Benchmarking, let the thing run for like half an hour and then got benchmark, of course being a Vega 8 I got 1564 which is a low score even in basic, but at least it didn't crash, so I suppose we are good on that one.

Question, is there a chance to update the BIOS using a USB? I got a portable DVD reader which connects to one of the USB ports of my MOBO, here is the link of the lastest BIOS:

https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/PRIME-A320M-K/HelpDesk_BIOS/

Update: BIOS updated, it was in v. 3000, working throught the peripherical drivers.
 
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The extra 2 pins are both ground on the 6+2 cables, so that's irrelevant anyhow. Those are only there for "sense" purposes so the graphics card can know whether it is a PSU that technically should be capable of supporting a graphics card that requires an 8 pin connector.
 
The extra 2 pins are both ground on the 6+2 cables, so that's irrelevant anyhow. Those are only there for "sense" purposes so the graphics card can know whether it is a PSU that technically should be capable of supporting a graphics card that requires an 8 pin connector.

Oh, good to know that, so the BIOS is updated to v. 5000, I also tested the memories through the Windows app without any issue detected and updated the graphic cards driver.

However I can't install the last "optional" update available (19.7.1), right now I am running with 19.5.2 and so far there haven't been any problems

I was planning to buy a new case to make things cooler for the RTX 2060, I read this model allows to keep things quite cool although I may need to remove the front panel to get the results shown in the tests:

https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/cooler-master-masterbox-500-tuf-gaming-edition,5691.html

And here is the stuff available in my region:

https://translate.google.com.pe/translate?hl=es&tab=rT&sl=es&tl=en&u=https://www.mesajilhnos.com/tipos/180/cases&orden=3

They still have a stock, also and ironically enough, I notice now some of the Corsair cases come with PSUs.
 
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Optional updates, are optional. So don't worry about those. They are usually beta versions anyhow and not fully stable. Only worry about updating to fully stable versions of graphics drivers UNLESS you are having a REAL problem with something.

You do not EVER want to buy a case that comes with a PSU. Two reasons.

One, the case will be cheap and the only way they can legitimately find a market for it is with thrifty shoppers who see that it comes with a PSU and think they are saving money. (Hint: They're not, because the case sucks and they'll end up having to replace the low quality power supply anyhow, which will cost more on top of the initial purchase.)

Two, the PSU will be cheap and you'll end up having to replace it anyhow when it causes no end of problems, if it even works. Nobody is going to give a power supply of any halfway decent level of quality, away for free, with a case. You'll either pay more or get junk. So avoid these.

Buy a decent case. Buy a decent power supply. Always. Never buy one that comes with the other. For me, that includes 90% of prebuilt systems as well unless you're getting them from a vendor like Dell who generally includes good, but very basic, and only the bare minimum in terms of capacity, units. Often they might also be proprietary and not compatible with aftermarket cases or replacement power supplies down the road. Another reason to avoid prebuilt systems.

How much can you reasonably afford to spend on a case? What actual country are you in?