Would this be a good PC for gaming?

[zChris]

Hi all,

I'm new here. I have been interested in building my own PC for a while now, and I really started looking into it after Microsoft announced the XBone. I noticed a lot of people were mentioning the dated hardware. I wanted the best gaming experience possible and I turned to the PC (console-only gamer for 13+ years). I've been doing quite a lot of research about it lately, and I find myself coming back to Tom's Hardware. I figured I would make an account and see if I could get some help..

I'm wanting to build myself an Intel-based gaming rig. I'm trying to keep the price below $1200. I put together a list on PCPartPicker.com that seems like a good starting point. Hopefully it's okay to post links, here it is: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/371x0

For the motherboard, I was trying to decide between the one on the list (ASRock Z77 Extreme4) and the ASUS P8Z77-V PRO. Is there much of a difference between the two?

A few more questions: Is there anything that I could change to get better performance for the money? Should I go for a better graphics card? Would you recommend anything else? Is this a little overboard for my first build? I'm open to any advice/suggestions.

Keep in mind that I have little knowledge of the technical stuff, like: SATA, Advanced MoBo settings, how to use SDD as main harddrive (for OS and main programs/games) and HDD as secondary. Any information would be helpful.

Sorry about the length.. There's a lot left for me to learn.

Thanks for reading,

-Chris

 

[woltej1]

PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/38DDF
Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/38DDF/by_merchant/
Benchmarks: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/38DDF/benchmarks/

CPU: Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($209.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($30.98 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: ASRock Z87 Extreme3 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($104.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: GeIL EVO POTENZA 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial M500 240GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($109.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($57.99 @ NCIX US)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 760 2GB Video Card ($249.99 @ NCIX US)
Case: NZXT Source 210 Elite (White) ATX Mid Tower Case ($45.99 @ Mwave)
Power Supply: Antec High Current Gamer 620W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 (OEM) (64-bit) ($84.98 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1034.88

Changes I made:

Your build was using 1 gen old CPU and mobo chipsets, got you the latest for a cheaper price.

Your mobo is a good OC mobo for the price as it has 8 power phases(something to pay attention to for overclocking)

That CPU cooler comes with decent paste already, no need to buy more.

Same performance RAM for cheaper.

I switched up your storage options. Twice the SSD storage for the same price. Your back up HDD doesn't need to be a black series as it is just a mass storage device now.

Big upgrade to the GPU, could even boost it up to a 770 pretty easily if you wanted me to.

Much better PSU.

 

[zChris]

PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/38DDF
Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/38DDF/by_merchant/
Benchmarks: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/38DDF/benchmarks/

CPU: Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($209.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($30.98 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: ASRock Z87 Extreme3 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($104.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: GeIL EVO POTENZA 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial M500 240GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($109.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($57.99 @ NCIX US)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 760 2GB Video Card ($249.99 @ NCIX US)
Case: NZXT Source 210 Elite (White) ATX Mid Tower Case ($45.99 @ Mwave)
Power Supply: Antec High Current Gamer 620W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 (OEM) (64-bit) ($84.98 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1034.88

Changes I made:

Your build was using 1 gen old CPU and mobo chipsets, got you the latest for a cheaper price.

Your mobo is a good OC mobo for the price as it has 8 power phases(something to pay attention to for overclocking)

That CPU cooler comes with decent paste already, no need to buy more.

Same performance RAM for cheaper.

I switched up your storage options. Twice the SSD storage for the same price. Your back up HDD doesn't need to be a black series as it is just a mass storage device now.

Big upgrade to the GPU, could even boost it up to a 770 pretty easily if you wanted me to.

Much better PSU.

Thanks for that. It looks like a much better setup than what I had thrown together, and I like how it's basically the same price.

If you would want to change it to a 770, feel free. I'm open to suggestions. Is there a noticeable difference when going from a 760 to a 770?

A quick question: How do you make the SSD your main storage? Like how would I have Windows and system-related files download to the SSD (along with a few games/programs), and everything else download to the HDD?


Here's another question I have that doesn't really relate to my original post:

I'm planning on upgrading the RAM on my office desktop. The PC is a Gateway SX2185-UB37 from Best Buy
specs: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/sx-series-desktop-4gb-memory-500gb-hard-drive/1747348.p?id=1219062808000&skuId=1747348&st=SX2185-UB37&cp=1&lp=1#tab=specifications

Here's a link to the stock RAM stick: http://www.kingston.com/us/memory/search/Default.aspx?DeviceType=2&Mfr=GTW&Line=SX%20Desktop&Model=86407&Description=Kingston_System_Specific_Memory_HyperX_Memory_for_Gateway_SX_Desktop_SX2185-UB37

I'm on Crucial's website looking at their RAM. When it says that it's compatible, does it mean with my current RAM, or with the MoBo? Would it be safer to buy the 8GB kit?
Here's the link to the Crucial site: http://www.crucial.com/store/listparts.aspx?model=SX2185-UB37&Cat=RAM

When I'm looking at the MoBo, it looks like the empty RAM slot doesn't have notches on the locks. Is that normal?

 

[zChris]

Nevermind on the RAM thing. I'll just buy another Kingston. I wasn't thinking.. Haha. I'm still wondering about the locks not having notches, though.

 

[woltej1]

PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/38If5
Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/38If5/by_merchant/
Benchmarks: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/38If5/benchmarks/

CPU: Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($209.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($30.98 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: ASRock Z87 Extreme3 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($104.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: GeIL EVO POTENZA 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial M500 240GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($109.00 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($57.99 @ NCIX US)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 770 2GB Video Card ($327.36 @ B&H)
Case: Corsair 300R ATX Mid Tower Case ($59.99 @ Microcenter)
Power Supply: Antec High Current Gamer 620W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 (OEM) (64-bit) ($84.98 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1125.26

The 770 will handle pretty much anything at 1080p while the 760 will struggle with the better graphics games. I had to change the case as the 770 apparently wouldn't fit into the 210 unless you removed some HDD cages.

For the SSD, when I upgraded my HDD to a SSD+HDD, all I did was start with only the SSD plugged in, then installed the OS. I shut down my PC, installed the HDD, then started it back up and went into BIOS. I then changed the SATA set up from IDE to ACHI mode. From there on it will automatically try to install everything to the SSD, which is where you want all of your programs anyways. If you have stuff you want to save to the HDD instead you just need to set the default save folder to something on the HDD.

For the RAM, if the RAM in your computer is that top stick, then a 4gb from that crucial site should work as they run on the same frequency, timing and voltage.

 

[zChris]

Ah.. I had a reply typed out, and I accidentally hit the back button.. Attempt number two:

The 770 will handle pretty much anything at 1080p while the 760 will struggle with the better graphics games. I had to change the case as the 770 apparently wouldn't fit into the 210 unless you removed some HDD cages

Can't argue with that. I'll probably spend a little more to pick up the 770 then. Is there a difference between the MSI 770 and the EVGA 770? I like the look of the MSI model. It matches the red/black theme I wanted to go for. Gotta love that OCD.

For the SSD, when I upgraded my HDD to a SSD+HDD, all I did was start with only the SSD plugged in, then installed the OS. I shut down my PC, installed the HDD, then started it back up and went into BIOS. I then changed the SATA set up from IDE to ACHI mode.

It seems easy enough.. What's the difference between the IDE and AHCI modes?
And would it be a good idea to keep a copy of the SSD files on the HDD? I'm not sure what the failure rate is for SSD's, but I have an act for killing drives, unfortunately.

I'll go ahead and grab the Kingston model. I just noticed that it's the RAM stick that has the notches in it..not the locks. I'm such a rookie.

Oh, and will the parts come with all of the cables I need? Or should I pick up some extras? I've heard that some SATA cables have trouble reaching the drives, which makes cable management a pain.

These are probably simple questions. Sorry about that.

 

[woltej1]

There isn't too much difference between them, both are good makers. EVGA just has amazing support.

The difference in modes will treat the drives as one main and one back up so files don't get put on both or separated.

Usually the drives do not have cables, but motherboards do usually have some sata cables. Check out monoprice.com if you think you'll need any, can find them for $.50

 

[zChris]

There isn't too much difference between them, both are good makers. EVGA just has amazing support.

I suppose going with a company that has good customer support beats a black and red case. Will the EVGA 770 run cooler due to the additional fan?

The difference in modes will treat the drives as one main and one back up so files don't get put on both or separated.

Cool. I'll take that route then. Someone recommended that I use RAID.. I decided to read up on it, and it sounds like it's more trouble than it's worth.

So to switch to ACHI, I'll have to:

Connect SSD and install Windows;
Power down the PC and unplug the PSU;
Connect HDD and reconnect PSU;
Boot it up, go into BIOS and change SATA from IDE to ACHI.

Did I get that right?

 

[zChris]

I changed the list up a bit.

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/39szH

Changes:

Motherboard- Asus Maximus VI Hero. It doesn't cost a whole lot more than the ASRock, and it has a few more features. And being red and black makes it that much better.

GPU- Asus GTX 770. Some reviews mention that Asus' 770 runs cooler than other 770s on the market. I don't know how accurate that is.

PSU- EVGA SuperNOVA 65W Fully-Modular. I checked on the psu that you selected. It was out of stock, unfortunately.

CPU Cooler- Zalman 9900 Max-R. Only $10 more than the 212 Evo. Also has good reviews, and it looks nice.

Case- NZXT H440. I want to get the Red/Black H440, but NewEgg is out of stock. Amazon says that they have them, but there's a 1 to 2 month shipping time.
I really like how clean this case looks. It's not a dull box, and it's not a 'spaceship' either. I also like how easy the cable management looks. I'm probably being too picky about the case, but...she's a beauty.

Total: $1296.82

What do you think?

 

[woltej1]

There isn't too much difference between them, both are good makers. EVGA just has amazing support.

I suppose going with a company that has good customer support beats a black and red case. Will the EVGA 770 run cooler due to the additional fan?

The difference in modes will treat the drives as one main and one back up so files don't get put on both or separated.

Cool. I'll take that route then. Someone recommended that I use RAID.. I decided to read up on it, and it sounds like it's more trouble than it's worth.

So to switch to ACHI, I'll have to:

Connect SSD and install Windows;
Power down the PC and unplug the PSU;
Connect HDD and reconnect PSU;
Boot it up, go into BIOS and change SATA from IDE to ACHI.

Did I get that right?

yea, you could change it to achi as soon as you connect the ssd also, just make sure achi is on before you actually start using the computer.

 

[zChris]

yea, you could change it to achi as soon as you connect the ssd also, just make sure achi is on before you actually start using the computer.

Alright, I'll try and remember that. Thanks for all of your help, Woltej. I really appreciate it.

Have a good one!

-Chris

 

[Deleted member 217926]

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[zChris]

Thread type changed

Thank you!