[SOLVED] 100C watercooled without overclock

[IndycentJester]

I built my first water cooled rig a frw months agio.
I9=9900k
Gigabyte Z390 Master
32 GB DDR4 3200
Gigabyte AORUS GeForce RTX 2080 Xtreme WATERFORCE WB 8G
Thermaltake Pacific M360 Plus D5 Res/Pump PETG Hard Tube Water Cooling
XSPC EC6 High performance coolant
Arctic Silver 5 thermal compound

Without any overclocking, running Prime95 my core temps reach 100C according to CPUID
HWmonitor. Any advice on what I did wrong?

 

[Karadjgne]

I'm thinking the flow on the cpu block is backwards. I'm pretty sure the input with the jetplate underneath is on the lower port in the TT W4 block, the output is the upper port. According to the picture you posted, you are input on top, basically getting no real flow pressure through the microfins.

You can test that out without changing your tubing, just disconnect the tubes, flip the block upside down and reinsert them as they sit now.

 

[grimfox]

Learn from my mistake. DO NOT USE PRIMOCHILL VUE. As a coolant it works fine. But with a powerful system like that it'll quickly fall out (no more neat effects just tinted water with dust) and stain your tubes and your blocks and your fittings. PETG is probably easier to clean/less likely to stain but the only guaranteed way to avoid staining is to use glass. Dyes and specialty fluids aren't meant for day to day systems. They are used for show systems that only really need to run for a week. If you are going to a LAN event then absolutely drop some VUE in there and geek out, but when you get home you need to drain it and flush/clean the system. Use Distilled water and play with your RGB effects. You can check out some of Jayz2cents videos on primochill vue.

I bought it and have regretted using it in my system since. It's caused a lot of problems even after replacing the tubes and cleaning the blocks I can still see pink stains on the blocks and over time the tubes turn pink too as it's still cycling out of the blocks and rad. There's also been some etching in the microfins and plating. I'll probably have to buy all new kit if I ever build a new system.

To the current matter.
How much paste did you use? AS5 used to be the king of thermal pastes. Now, I wouldn't use it at all. There are better performing non-conductive pastes. Which means you don't have to worry about squeeze out shorting something or causing severe damage. Obviously if you glob it on it could still cause problems but you want to make sure you are using enough or a little more than enough. With AS5 you don't want to risk the squeeze out so the tendency would be to use less than enough. Thermal Grizzly or Gelid would be the two brands I'd go to. Gelid probably isn't as good but I've been using a tube of that for awhile and haven't noticed any negative effects.

 

[Karadjgne]

AS5 has never been King of pastes. 2nd in line for the throne maybe.

Yeats ago pastes were expensive, $20 or up for maybe 3 applications, if you could find it and not have to order it from a pc shop. Royal pain. Then along came Arctic, and blew up paste sales with a $6 tube that was good for 5 or more applications, and was everywhere. Everybody had it, it was cheap, it worked. It was a godsend.

As a paste, it's pretty mediocre, right in the middle of the bunch. There are better, and much worse. The dry out is not a concern, it works just as well wet or dry, unless the seal is broken.

It's biggest concern (for me) is that it is capacitive, and ppl have a bad habit of over application spilling into sockets. With AS5, that can be bad news.

 

[IndycentJester]

Learn from my mistake. DO NOT USE PRIMOCHILL VUE. As a coolant it works fine. But with a powerful system like that it'll quickly fall out (no more neat effects just tinted water with dust) and stain your tubes and your blocks and your fittings. PETG is probably easier to clean/less likely to stain but the only guaranteed way to avoid staining is to use glass. Dyes and specialty fluids aren't meant for day to day systems. They are used for show systems that only really need to run for a week. If you are going to a LAN event then absolutely drop some VUE in there and geek out, but when you get home you need to drain it and flush/clean the system. Use Distilled water and play with your RGB effects. You can check out some of Jayz2cents videos on primochill vue.

I bought it and have regretted using it in my system since. It's caused a lot of problems even after replacing the tubes and cleaning the blocks I can still see pink stains on the blocks and over time the tubes turn pink too as it's still cycling out of the blocks and rad. There's also been some etching in the microfins and plating. I'll probably have to buy all new kit if I ever build a new system.

To the current matter.
How much paste did you use? AS5 used to be the king of thermal pastes. Now, I wouldn't use it at all. There are better performing non-conductive pastes. Which means you don't have to worry about squeeze out shorting something or causing severe damage. Obviously if you glob it on it could still cause problems but you want to make sure you are using enough or a little more than enough. With AS5 you don't want to risk the squeeze out so the tendency would be to use less than enough. Thermal Grizzly or Gelid would be the two brands I'd go to. Gelid probably isn't as good but I've been using a tube of that for awhile and haven't noticed any negative effects.

Thank you for the recommendation. A friend told me several years ago to use AS2, so I always used it without question. Will try Thermal Grizzly on rebuild. Decided to change pc block to Phanteks PH-C350I. As far as VUE is concerned, There have been too many horror stories for me to run normally. Your advise of only using it to show off seems like the best solution, thanks again,

 

[IndycentJester]

I'm thinking the flow on the cpu block is backwards. I'm pretty sure the input with the jetplate underneath is on the lower port in the TT W4 block, the output is the upper port. According to the picture you posted, you are input on top, basically getting no real flow pressure through the microfins.

You can test that out without changing your tubing, just disconnect the tubes, flip the block upside down and reinsert them as they sit now.

According to the answered questions on amazon, flow direction does not matter, besides, I am changing to
Phanteks PH-C350I.