$2K editing CPU?

[ScrappeyDP]

$2,000 Capturing and Editing build: 1800X vs 7700K vs 6850K

I'm looking to spend around $2K on building a PC that will mostly be used for Capturing, Streaming, Content creation and Editing video. I'm at a loss for which parts to choose.

I'm not sure which CPU to choose now that AMD has the 1800X. And I do plan on running a GPU (either 1080 or 1080TI or dual GPUs if that is worth it), but I am not sure which choice is best. Will most of the load be handed to the GPU so I'm better off spending more budget on the GPU? And will losing PCI lanes cause me problems in the long run? And do I worry about onboard graphics on the CPU?

I need to put at least 1 capture card in the rig. I honestly don't care about the case aesthetic. I would like to have more than 1 capture card, but if that doesn't fit into the build cost, I can add one later. I would prefer PCI capture card. But I also need multiple USB 3.0 ports, an SD card reader. I would like to have USB C as well.

And I would want to run as much RAM as possible. Standard SSD over M.2 because it doesn't seem like performance/$ is worth it yet.

Does anyone have some suggestions?

 

[Chugalug_]

Going back a bit, and also referring to your question, as long as you have a stable ethernet connection, you'll be fine to handle all that capture as you put it, 3x 1080p should hold up fine.
You're overcomplicating it, its pretty much a matter of yes your hardware can handle it, as well as your sound interface.
You're all set on that end.

 

[ScrappeyDP]

Ok thanks. So I'm leaning toward the 1800X build with either 1080 or 1080TI.

Do you have any reccommendation on a PCIE capture card? Or should I try to go USB for all 3?

Does the build include SD card reader as configured?
Will I need to purchase anything else? OS obviously, but any cables, etc? (Mouse/touchpad, keyboard & display I know)
Reccommendation on where to buy OS Windows 10 for least expensive price?


Thanks again!!

 

[Chugalug_]

The 1800X is unnecessary cost, and we can't fit it in well if you want a 4k monitor too.
It does not include an SD card reader as it is, I asked you earlier but you didn't respond lol.
No you don't need anything else.
You can get windows cheapest from outlet PC at $88 after rebate.
http://www.shareasale.com/r.cfm?u=530512&b=65776&m=8565&urllink=www.outletpc.com%2Fhb4142-microsoft-windows-10-oem.html%3Futm_source%3Dhb4142-microsoft-windows-10-oem%26utm_medium%3Dshopping%252Bengine%26utm_campaign%3Dpcpartpicker%26utm_content%3DMicrosoft%252B-%252BSoftware%2520%252F%2520OS%2520%253E%2520Microsoft%2520Windows%252010

 

[ScrappeyDP]

Sorry. I thought I mentioned it.
Yes to card reader if it doesn't push the build cost too high.

Let's say around $2K without a display/monitor. OR $2300-2400 WITH monitor/display.

If I just build the PC I can go monitor hunting after. But don't worry about the monitor fitting the 2K budget. Or throw it in at a $2300-2400 build.


I just feel like the extra CPU power will help me and give it more of a future without having to upgrade as quickly. But maybe I am wrong.

 

[The_Staplergun]

Yea the extra cpu power will help with longevity.

 

[Chugalug_]

No, there's only a small differential between the two.
Especially given your increased budget i've upped it to a 1700X @3.4GHz.
An 1800x gives you 0.2GHz more speed, but costs $100 more, definitely not worth it.
Does this meet your needs?
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: AMD RYZEN 7 1700X 3.4GHz 8-Core Processor ($399.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($31.49 @ Newegg Marketplace)
Motherboard: ASRock AB350 Gaming K4 ATX AM4 Motherboard ($102.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($189.97 @ Jet)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($177.89 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($89.69 @ OutletPC)
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 w/Window (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($89.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: SeaSonic G 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($66.89 @ Newegg)
Wireless Network Adapter: Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I REV 4.2 PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter ($29.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Monitor: LG 27UD58-B 27.0" 3840x2160 60Hz Monitor ($399.99 @ Amazon)
Other: Rosewill RDCR-11004 - Data Hub for 5.25" Drive Bays - Two USB 3.0 ($29.99 @ Newegg)
Other: GTX 1080 Ti Estimated Cost ($699.00)
Total: $2307.87
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-03-09 16:57 EST-0500

 

[ScrappeyDP]

Yes. That looks awesome. Thank you!!

Now I guess I just have to wait for the 1080TI to be released and I will purchase it all.

Then I will likely be back with questions on the assembly ;-)


Thanks so much to everyone for participating in this discussion.

 

[Chugalug_]

Sounds fantastic, don't forget the AM4 socket upgrade kit for the cooler that you need to order for free from their website after getting the H7.

 

[ScrappeyDP]

Thanks. I def. Would have forgotten that/not knwn to do so until it wasn't fitting.

 

[Chugalug_]

Yeah, I believe you need the product code though, so you'll need to wait till you have it.

 

[ScrappeyDP]

Hey guys. I have another quick question.
Paul reccomends in this video to wait until 3rd party 1080TIs are released in April to buy https://youtu.be/QDbLyfrUkXU

I don't really want to wait that long to start the build. But obviously without a GPU this isn't going to function. I unfortunately don't have anything I can slap in it right now.

Do you have a reccommendation on something I can use to get by until the 1080TIs are released? Obviously if I'm going to spend $699+ on the 1080TI I don't want to make an investment into another card. But I want to get the build started and get it assembled and software installed sooner than April if possible.

Thanks

 

[Chugalug_]

Yep, I agree.
However, third party cards will probably start releasing over the next few weeks, its an absolute nono to buy reference cards simply because they overheat tonnes, especially if using them at high load over long periods of time like you're doing.
Just make the build without the GPU and add that later down the line, no hurry.

 

[ScrappeyDP]

But don't I need a GPU in order to view on a display? Do the Ryzen chips have any onboard graphics? I thought they didn't and so I need to have at least some GPU installed in order to get a display running?

I don't want to buy everything and assemble it and then find out weeks down the line something is defective and have issues with a return. so if I need some modestly priced GPU to get by with until I can get it operating with the 1080TI do you have a recommendation for something inexpensive, maybe even used if it functions properly because hopefully it won't be used for more than a few weeks. ... Unless I don't need a GPU to get it operating and can just slap the 1080TI in when I make that purchase and can save myself the cost of a card to get by with until then?

P.S. Do you have a good recommendation on a combo wired/wireless capable mechanical keyboard and mouse? Wired for low latency when needed, but wireless when latency isn't an issue. budget $80-150 pushing that total build near $2500 but trying to keep it under that with everything including the display keyboard and mouse and any additional accesories (cables, connectors, etc.) needed for the build.

 

[Chugalug_]

They don't have integrated graphics; no.
If you're willing to drop down $75 for a card in the mean time get this.
$125 for the keyboard/mouse combo.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Video Card: Asus Radeon RX 460 2GB Dual OC Video Card ($73.98 @ Newegg)
Keyboard: G.Skill Ripjaws KM570 Wired Standard Keyboard ($64.99 @ Newegg)
Mouse: Razer DeathAdder Elite Wired Optical Mouse ($59.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $198.96
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-03-13 04:00 EDT-0400

 

[ScrappeyDP]

Thanks!

 

[ScrappeyDP]

I realized that I have enough mice that I probably don't need to buy another.

I will likely use the MX Master as my daily driver.

I was going to take the money saved and buy the new Logitech G Pro keyboard because I thought it was both Wired AND Wireless. But it seems like is has to be plugged into a USB port to function even though the cable is detachable.
http://gaming.logitech.com/en-us/product/pro-gaming-keyboard?gclid=Cj0KEQjwhpnGBRDKpY-My9rdutABEiQAWNcslBsDQJMv2bHyj37LIpuSn1FfXOgmuTmD2CmjlC8qzqMaAips8P8HAQ

Do you know of any keyboards that are BOTH wired and wireless? So I could plug in when I need low latency but use wireless for the majority of my use?


I think I will end up throwing the $75 at a GPU to get up and running. Thanks for the advice.

 

[ScrappeyDP]

**UPDATE**

After having no luck with my own research and talking to my friend about his Corsair K95 RGB I decided to dig thru some of my old peripherals to see what I had. I found like 5 more USB and PS2 mice. I found my old wireless keyboard and mouse combo that used to be my daily driver with my old desktop. It's the OG Microsoft Wireless Multimedia Keyboard 1.0A - model: WBR0168

The receiver has 2 plugs on the end of it so you can plug in PS2 x 2 (one for mouse and 1 for Keyboard) but 1 of the plugs is actually USB with an adapter to PS2. I always used it plugged into both PS2 ports. But since it has that USB end I decided to try and see if the receiver would work for either or both if I just had the single USB plugged in. I downloaded the old IntelliPoint Software, but figured Windows 10 would try and find a driver once I plugged in so I tried that first. Once it auto-installed the driver I unplugged and connected the receiver again and clicked the sync button on the receiver and then the mouse and the mouse IS working. I then did the same sync with the Keyboard and it too IS working!! I tested the multimedia quick buttons on top of the keyboard and even those work. Even the "calculator" button launches the calculator.

So I'm in business and can use that as my wireless keyboard when I want to go wireless.

Which means I can spend a little more on the keyboard and I think I'm going to buy this new Logitech G Pro Mechanical Gaming Keyboard for the wired keyboard when needed. http://gaming.logitech.com/en-us/product/pro-gaming-keyboard?gclid=Cj0KEQjwhpnGBRDKpY-My9rdutABEiQAWNcslEUkybQdfGZijBv_SfF2rKB8HwN6ZZs8zm9GVAb6aw0aAnnV8P8HAQ


I'm still unsure about a wired mouse. I like everything about the Razer mouse, except it has too few buttons and I'm not into the whole Razer super branding going on with it. I'm gonna try to do some more hunting, but I think going fully wired as the connection is going to be fine since I already have fully functioning wireless options.

Thanks again!!

 

[Chugalug_]

The MX Master should be good for you then, wireless and great ergonomics.
The Strafe is still a fantastic value choice, as the keys will feel the same as any other Cherry MX Blue board, but if you want to spend more get either
A. The RGB version: http://pcpartpicker.com/product/WxcMnQ/corsair-keyboard-ch9000120na
Or B. The metal plated version with higher build quality. (MX Red Switches) http://pcpartpicker.com/product/Q6DzK8/corsair-k70-lux-rgb-wired-gaming-keyboard-ch-9101010-na

 

[ScrappeyDP]

Yeah. I have been using the MX Master for almost 2 years now. I like it for editing because of the side scroll wheel which makes scrubbing much easier.
The only problem is that it doesn't have many programmable buttons for shortcuts so I was going to go with something that has more since I can always use that. I honestly am very highly considering the G900 Chaos Spectrum Professional-Grade Wired / Wireless Gaming Mouse - It's both Wired and Wireless and Super pricey! but I figure it will do what I want so it's worth the price if I can make it last me a decade.

Is there a reason you don't suggest the Logitech Pro Mechanical Gaming Keyboard I mentioned? http://gaming.logitech.com/en-us/product/pro-gaming-keyboard

It's 10 Keyless, but I don't use a number pad currently because I'm on a laptop. And my wireless does have the num pad already so I don't think I'll miss the keys.

Is the Corsair a better keyboard? What's the difference between the STRAFE and the K70 LUX? They look identical except for the break in the wrist rest and the texture on AWSD keys.

 

[Chugalug_]

It uses logitech's in house mechanical keys which feel really squishy to me, not very nice feeling. 😱
The difference between the STRAFE and KK70 lux is that the K70 has an aluminium finish while the Strafe is hard plastic. The 'LUX' name refers to a slightly updated lighting controller which supposedly gives off a few more color ranges, although I can't tell the difference.

The G900 is praised as one of the best mice on the market, so if you really like the feel of it and programmable keys, go for it.
It is pretty god damn pricy though.

 

[ScrappeyDP]

Ok... Well do you have a comparable Corsair Mouse to the Logitech one I listed? The G900?

I'm about to pull the trigger on the K70 because they have it on sale for $119 right now so I don't want to miss that deal. but if I can throw on a mouse that will ship with it and pair Corsair together maybe that's the way to go? Otherwise I'll pull the trigger on the G900 if you don't think Corsair has something as good as the G900

 

[ScrappeyDP]

I ordered the Corsair K70 LUX with Cherry switches and the Logitech G900 mouse. ... A lot more money than I wanted to spend, but hopefully they will get me thru the next decade and a half and justify themselves.

I will try to look at the build to start accumulating the parts this weekend.

Thanks for your help!

(I would insert Screenshots of my orders but I can't figure out how to embed an image in these posts. ... clearly I'm the best at these forum posts 🙂 )

 

[Chugalug_]

Corsair mice aren't all that great.
Considering the amount of time you're looking to keep your peripherals, you made a good purchase; you want high quality, not something that's gonna crap out on you after a year or two.

 

[ScrappeyDP]

Awesome. Thanks for your advice.

That is also what I'm trying to go for with this build. Hopefully high quality and will last for a while without needing upgrades and then upgrade in the same case if not same motherboard.

I'm going to check back with you before I pull the trigger on the build parts to make sure you don't think something else is better/prices drop and you think there's a better part for the build.


I do have questions though. Is there a reason you chose a 4x8GB RAM setup instead of a 2x16GB? Wouldn't it be better to go 2x16GB to leave 2 additional open slots for upgrading?

P.S. I am loving the case you chose for the build!!

 

[Chugalug_]

Sounds good, prices are always flying around.
I chose a 4x8GB RAM setup because the pricing is insanely good for higher frequency RAM. (you want somethingl like 3000MHz, as it helps a lot with video processing)
If you are planning on going 64GB or want to leave the option open however, grab this: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/VYgPxr/gskill-memory-f43000c15d32gvr
Let me know when you're ready to buy and i'll refresh it again for you.