[40K] [Model] gaunts fall over

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Archived from groups: rec.games.miniatures.warhammer (More info?)

OK, I just got 13 Hormogaunts off e-bay. They are already assembled and
3 of them fall over. What is the best thing to use to wieght the bases
so they stand up? I have heard of using fishing wieghts but the weights
I have seen would not hide under the slotta base...

With a total of 37 'gaunts so far. I need something.

-Joe

 

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Archived from groups: rec.games.miniatures.warhammer (More info?)

Desert Lurker wrote:
> OK, I just got 13 Hormogaunts off e-bay. They are already assembled and
> 3 of them fall over. What is the best thing to use to wieght the bases
> so they stand up?

I would buy liquid epoxy and tiny lead shot from the gun store, invert
the bases, and fill the undersides with lead and epoxy.

The lead will help keep the models down, while the epoxy will insulate
the lead so you don't need to worry about lead dust / poisoning.


--
--- John Hwang "JohnHwang...@cs.com.no.com"
\-|-/
| A.K.D. F.E.M.C.
| Horned Blood Cross Terror LED Speed Jagd Destiny

 

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Archived from groups: rec.games.miniatures.warhammer (More info?)

Desert Lurker wrote:
> OK, I just got 13 Hormogaunts off e-bay. They are already assembled and
> 3 of them fall over. What is the best thing to use to wieght the bases
> so they stand up? I have heard of using fishing wieghts but the weights
> I have seen would not hide under the slotta base...
>
> With a total of 37 'gaunts so far. I need something.
>
> -Joe

Are they plastic or metal? If they're plastic, go to the hardware store
and buy some steel washers. If they're metal, try the lead shot idea in
the other post.

 

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Brion K. Lienhart wrote:
> Desert Lurker wrote:
>
>> OK, I just got 13 Hormogaunts off e-bay. They are already assembled
>> and 3 of them fall over. What is the best thing to use to wieght the
>> bases so they stand up?

> Are they plastic or metal? If they're plastic, go to the hardware store
> and buy some steel washers.

Steel washers are more expensive than pennies, and they can rust.
Pennies are good.

> If they're metal, try the lead shot idea in
> the other post.


--
--- John Hwang "JohnHwang...@cs.com.no.com"
\-|-/
| A.K.D. F.E.M.C.
| Horned Blood Cross Terror LED Speed Jagd Destiny

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.games.miniatures.warhammer (More info?)

> Are they plastic or metal? If they're plastic, go to the hardware store
> and buy some steel washers. If they're metal, try the lead shot idea in
> the other post.

Steel washers may be cheaper but I used US Nickels on my assault
marines. 5 cents a model and a little super glue. It works really well
to keep them standing upright. I don't have any tyranids but I assume
they don't have a slotta base. I guess if you wanted an even cheaper
option maybe 2 pennies... probably too thick.

Master Ravenclaw

This will work in the US - Not sure about UK or elsewhere

 

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"Langley" <knaus@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:nFBTd.12083$VD5.8853@twister.socal.rr.com...
>
>> Are they plastic or metal? If they're plastic, go to the hardware store
>> and buy some steel washers. If they're metal, try the lead shot idea in
>> the other post.
>
> Steel washers may be cheaper but I used US Nickels on my assault marines.
> 5 cents a model and a little super glue. It works really well to keep them
> standing upright. I don't have any tyranids but I assume they don't have a
> slotta base. I guess if you wanted an even cheaper option maybe 2
> pennies... probably too thick.

Sounds like he's got the older metal hormagaunts so they do have slotta
bases (a few of them are *very* front heavy due to the poses). Using shot
is probably the easiest way to weight them. I use a penny in all the bases
of my minis which is heavy enough. For the slotta bases I just snip the
pennies into two pieces using tin snipers.

And before someone mentions the often repeated myth, no it isn't illegal to
deface US currency as long as you don't intend to continue using it as
currency.


--

-smithdoerr

 

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In article <nFBTd.12083$VD5.8853@twister.socal.rr.com>, Langley,
knaus@yahoo.com Varfed out the following in Timo speak...
>
> > Are they plastic or metal? If they're plastic, go to the hardware store
> > and buy some steel washers. If they're metal, try the lead shot idea in
> > the other post.
>
> Steel washers may be cheaper but I used US Nickels on my assault
> marines. 5 cents a model and a little super glue. It works really well
> to keep them standing upright. I don't have any tyranids but I assume
> they don't have a slotta base. I guess if you wanted an even cheaper
> option maybe 2 pennies... probably too thick.
>
> Master Ravenclaw

Unfortunately - both the old metal AND the new plastics are slotta
base models. That being said - there's Jay Wirth's Renaissance ink that
sells weights designed to fit the bases.

Myrmidon

--
#1582. I think they call it Warhammer "40K" because that is how
much you are going to have to make per year in order to play.

- Eric Noland

# 1082. Pound for pound I can buy cocaine cheaper than
raise a Warhammer army

- Roy Cox

http://www.PetitionOnline.com/gwprice/

****

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In article <cvkvlf$14hm$1@delphi.ridgenet.net>, Desert Lurker,
ironman150.spam@ridgenet.net Varfed out the following in Timo speak...
> OK, I just got 13 Hormogaunts off e-bay. They are already assembled and
> 3 of them fall over. What is the best thing to use to wieght the bases
> so they stand up? I have heard of using fishing wieghts but the weights
> I have seen would not hide under the slotta base...
>
> With a total of 37 'gaunts so far. I need something.


Hello Joe,

Well, you've got some options. As others have pointed out you can
weight the bases your self. While washers will work, I don't
particularly like them in the case of gaunts since the gaunt bases are
slotta which means either the washer sticks out below the plastic slotta
base, or requires a lot of work to grind away parts of the inside of the
slotta base and figure support - which may well result in the figure
breaking off the base a lot more easily. All is not lost if you still
want to go the do it yourself route - as John Hwang pointed out - epoxy
is your friend when combined with lead shot or other weights. I have a
bunch of the old metal gaunts that really really like to tip over - I
used two part metal bondo auto body filler to fill in the bases on mine,
and I wish I would have added shot too. They're still a little front
heavy at times. To counter that you can also do the following - add
base extensions on the front with plastic card. In my case I simple
glued 'terrain bits' like a small stone or a pile of debris to the front
of the base to lengthen it.

Or if you're feeling a bit more inclined to spend more time
working on the minis then on the bases - you can also get premade 'base
weights'. Jay Wirth's products do come well recommended by 'Dr.
Faust' - well known for his Minis Painting Clinic site. At this point
I'm looking at putting in an order for the bases on my large number of
gaunts.


http://www.renaissanceink.net

http://www.renaissanceink.net/index.php?body=bases.html

You'll find the listing for base weights about half way down the page on
bases. They're a bit expensive, but by the time you figure up the cost
of epoxy, lead shot, your time, and the effort in redoing the bases -
the price becomes a bit more attractive.

Hope that helps,

Myrmidon


--
#1582. I think they call it Warhammer "40K" because that is how
much you are going to have to make per year in order to play.

- Eric Noland

# 1082. Pound for pound I can buy cocaine cheaper than
raise a Warhammer army

- Roy Cox

http://www.PetitionOnline.com/gwprice/

****

RGMW FAQ: http://www.rgmw.org

Or...

http://www.sheppard.demon.co.uk/rgmw_faq/rgmw_faq.htm

 

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Myrmidon wrote:
> In article <cvkvlf$14hm$1@delphi.ridgenet.net>, Desert Lurker,
> ironman150.spam@ridgenet.net Varfed out the following in Timo speak...
>
>>OK, I just got 13 Hormogaunts off e-bay. They are already assembled and
>>3 of them fall over. What is the best thing to use to wieght the bases
>>so they stand up? I have heard of using fishing wieghts but the weights
>>I have seen would not hide under the slotta base...
>>
>>With a total of 37 'gaunts so far. I need something.
>
>
>
> Hello Joe,
>
> Well, you've got some options. As others have pointed out you can
> weight the bases your self. While washers will work, I don't
> particularly like them in the case of gaunts since the gaunt bases are
> slotta which means either the washer sticks out below the plastic slotta
> base, or requires a lot of work to grind away parts of the inside of the
> slotta base and figure support - which may well result in the figure
> breaking off the base a lot more easily. All is not lost if you still
> want to go the do it yourself route - as John Hwang pointed out - epoxy
> is your friend when combined with lead shot or other weights. I have a
> bunch of the old metal gaunts that really really like to tip over - I
> used two part metal bondo auto body filler to fill in the bases on mine,
> and I wish I would have added shot too. They're still a little front
> heavy at times. To counter that you can also do the following - add
> base extensions on the front with plastic card. In my case I simple
> glued 'terrain bits' like a small stone or a pile of debris to the front
> of the base to lengthen it.
>
> Or if you're feeling a bit more inclined to spend more time
> working on the minis then on the bases - you can also get premade 'base
> weights'. Jay Wirth's products do come well recommended by 'Dr.
> Faust' - well known for his Minis Painting Clinic site. At this point
> I'm looking at putting in an order for the bases on my large number of
> gaunts.
>
>
> http://www.renaissanceink.net
>
> http://www.renaissanceink.net/index.php?body=bases.html
>
> You'll find the listing for base weights about half way down the page on
> bases. They're a bit expensive, but by the time you figure up the cost
> of epoxy, lead shot, your time, and the effort in redoing the bases -
> the price becomes a bit more attractive.
>
> Hope that helps,
>
> Myrmidon
>
>
All I have are plastic gaunts. so metal bondo is likely enogh weight. I
shall test... Thanks!

-Joe

 

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"Desert Lurker" <ironman150.spam@ridgenet.net> wrote in message
news:cvkvlf$14hm$1@delphi.ridgenet.net...
> OK, I just got 13 Hormogaunts off e-bay. They are already assembled and
> 3 of them fall over. What is the best thing to use to wieght the bases
> so they stand up? I have heard of using fishing wieghts but the weights
> I have seen would not hide under the slotta base...
>
> With a total of 37 'gaunts so far. I need something.
>
> -Joe

In the UK use 1p coins - works for me !

Stephen

 

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In article <421f6235$0$12863$cc9e4d1f@news.dial.pipex.com>, Stephen
Dibble, s.j.d@dsl.pipex.com Varfed out the following in Timo speak...
>
> "Desert Lurker" <ironman150.spam@ridgenet.net> wrote in message
> news:cvkvlf$14hm$1@delphi.ridgenet.net...
> > OK, I just got 13 Hormogaunts off e-bay. They are already assembled and
> > 3 of them fall over. What is the best thing to use to wieght the bases
> > so they stand up? I have heard of using fishing wieghts but the weights
> > I have seen would not hide under the slotta base...
> >
> > With a total of 37 'gaunts so far. I need something.
> >
> > -Joe
>
> In the UK use 1p coins - works for me !

Are you simply gluing them on the bottom (i.e. does it increase
the height of the mini)? Or are you getting them to fit in some other
way?

Myrmidon


--
#1582. I think they call it Warhammer "40K" because that is how
much you are going to have to make per year in order to play.

- Eric Noland

# 1082. Pound for pound I can buy cocaine cheaper than
raise a Warhammer army

- Roy Cox

http://www.PetitionOnline.com/gwprice/

****

RGMW FAQ: http://www.rgmw.org

Or...

http://www.sheppard.demon.co.uk/rgmw_faq/rgmw_faq.htm

 

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Archived from groups: rec.games.miniatures.warhammer (More info?)

Desert Lurker wrote:
> Myrmidon wrote:
>> Desert Lurker, ironman150.spam@ridgenet.net Varfed ...
>>
>>> OK, I just got 13 Hormogaunts off e-bay. They are already assembled
>>> and 3 of them fall over. What is the best thing to use to wieght the
>>> bases so they stand up?

>> Well, you've got some options. As others have pointed out you can
>> weight the bases your self.

> All I have are plastic gaunts. so metal bondo is likely enogh weight. I
> shall test... Thanks!

You should slip a penny in there. Metal should be heavier than bondo.

--
--- John Hwang "JohnHwang...@cs.com.no.com"
\-|-/
| A.K.D. F.E.M.C.
| Horned Blood Cross Terror LED Speed Jagd Destiny

 

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In article <38a9v5F5g0h39U2@individual.net>, John Hwang,
JohnHwangCSI@cs.com.no.com Varfed out the following in Timo speak...
> Desert Lurker wrote:
> > Myrmidon wrote:
> >> Desert Lurker, ironman150.spam@ridgenet.net Varfed ...
> >>
> >>> OK, I just got 13 Hormogaunts off e-bay. They are already assembled
> >>> and 3 of them fall over. What is the best thing to use to wieght the
> >>> bases so they stand up?
>
> >> Well, you've got some options. As others have pointed out you can
> >> weight the bases your self.
>
> > All I have are plastic gaunts. so metal bondo is likely enogh weight. I
> > shall test... Thanks!
>
> You should slip a penny in there. Metal should be heavier than bondo.

That's the problem - they're SLOTTA bases. You can't slip a penny in
there. You either have to cut a lot of pennys in half, or you have to
grind the slot - which is holding up the mini - out of the base. Either
way it's a pain in the butt. More to the point, the sides are uneven,
so even if you cut pennys in half you still have the problem of making
it fit.

Myrmidon

--
#1582. I think they call it Warhammer "40K" because that is how
much you are going to have to make per year in order to play.

- Eric Noland

# 1082. Pound for pound I can buy cocaine cheaper than
raise a Warhammer army

- Roy Cox

http://www.PetitionOnline.com/gwprice/

****

RGMW FAQ: http://www.rgmw.org

Or...

http://www.sheppard.demon.co.uk/rgmw_faq/rgmw_faq.htm

 

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Archived from groups: rec.games.miniatures.warhammer (More info?)

Myrmidon wrote:
> John Hwang, JohnHwangCSI@cs.com.no.com Varfed ...

>>>All I have are plastic gaunts. so metal bondo is likely enogh weight. I
>>>shall test... Thanks!
>>
>>You should slip a penny in there. Metal should be heavier than bondo.
>
> That's the problem - they're SLOTTA bases. You can't slip a penny in
> there. You either have to cut a lot of pennys in half, or you have to
> grind the slot - which is holding up the mini - out of the base. Either
> way it's a pain in the butt. More to the point, the sides are uneven,
> so even if you cut pennys in half you still have the problem of making
> it fit.

Hmm... back to lead shot then.

--
--- John Hwang "JohnHwang...@cs.com.no.com"
\-|-/
| A.K.D. F.E.M.C.
| Horned Blood Cross Terror LED Speed Jagd Destiny

 

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Archived from groups: rec.games.miniatures.warhammer (More info?)

>> With a total of 37 'gaunts so far. I need something.
>>
>> -Joe
>
> In the UK use 1p coins - works for me !
>
> Stephen

I use 2p Coins here.. polish them up, and epoxy them on the 25mm base, they
overhang a tiny little bit but look really nice..

Cheers

K-Light

 

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"Desert Lurker" <ironman150.spam@ridgenet.net> wrote in message
news:cvkvlf$14hm$1@delphi.ridgenet.net...
> OK, I just got 13 Hormogaunts off e-bay. They are already assembled and 3
> of them fall over. What is the best thing to use to wieght the bases so
> they stand up? I have heard of using fishing wieghts but the weights I
> have seen would not hide under the slotta base...
>
> With a total of 37 'gaunts so far. I need something.
>
> -Joe

Superglue a penny to the base.

 

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Archived from groups: rec.games.miniatures.warhammer (More info?)

John Hwang wrote:
> Myrmidon wrote:
>
>> John Hwang, JohnHwangCSI@cs.com.no.com Varfed ...
>
>
>>>> All I have are plastic gaunts. so metal bondo is likely enogh
>>>> weight. I shall test... Thanks!
>>>
>>>
>>> You should slip a penny in there. Metal should be heavier than bondo.
>>
>>
>> That's the problem - they're SLOTTA bases. You can't slip a penny in
>> there. You either have to cut a lot of pennys in half, or you have to
>> grind the slot - which is holding up the mini - out of the base.
>> Either way it's a pain in the butt. More to the point, the sides are
>> uneven, so even if you cut pennys in half you still have the problem
>> of making it fit.
>
>
> Hmm... back to lead shot then.
>
They don't fall over nearly as often as my plastic skellingtons do. Just
the ones with thier claws streched all the way out. I could probable
just put some green stuff in the bottom of the slotta and it'd be heavy
enough. but I see what walmart has for lead BBs or something... or
should I look for shotgun reload shot from my gun store...

 

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Archived from groups: rec.games.miniatures.warhammer (More info?)

Desert Lurker wrote:
> John Hwang wrote:

>> Hmm... back to lead shot then.

> should I look for shotgun reload shot from my gun store...

Yes.

--
--- John Hwang "JohnHwang...@cs.com.no.com"
\-|-/
| A.K.D. F.E.M.C.
| Horned Blood Cross Terror LED Speed Jagd Destiny

 

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Archived from groups: rec.games.miniatures.warhammer (More info?)

John Hwang wrote:
> Desert Lurker wrote:
> > John Hwang wrote:
>
> >> Hmm... back to lead shot then.
>
> > should I look for shotgun reload shot from my gun store...
>
> Yes.

Just as a reminder: Lead shot is fairly safe. Lead *dust* is not.

Number 12 birdshot pellets are sized at @0 .050in in diameter.

They'll compact nicely without requiring any special precautions.

Any gage smaller tends to exhibit some of the qualities of *dust*.

Use a shot/ PVA slurry, but be careful not to fill the base to the
'top'.

If overfilled they'll need to be filed, and then you're back to *dust*
..

The real trick is keeping all those figs inverted until the glue sets .
.. .

HTH


Playa

--

"Resentment is like taking poison and waiting for the other person to
die."
- Malachy McCourt

 

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Playa wrote:
> John Hwang wrote:
>
>>Desert Lurker wrote:
>>
>>>John Hwang wrote:
>>
>>>>Hmm... back to lead shot then.
>>
>>>should I look for shotgun reload shot from my gun store...
>>
>>Yes.
>
>
> Just as a reminder: Lead shot is fairly safe. Lead *dust* is not.
>
> Number 12 birdshot pellets are sized at @0 .050in in diameter.
>
> They'll compact nicely without requiring any special precautions.
>
> Any gage smaller tends to exhibit some of the qualities of *dust*.
>
> Use a shot/ PVA slurry, but be careful not to fill the base to the
> 'top'.
>
> If overfilled they'll need to be filed, and then you're back to *dust*
> .
>
> The real trick is keeping all those figs inverted until the glue sets .
> . .
>
> HTH
>
>
> Playa
>
> --
>
> "Resentment is like taking poison and waiting for the other person to
> die."
> - Malachy McCourt
>

What about just pushing some pellets into green stuff?

-Joe

 

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In article <d04atr$29ck$1@delphi.ridgenet.net>, Desert Lurker,
ironman150.spam@ridgenet.net Varfed out the following in Timo speak...
> Playa wrote:
> > John Hwang wrote:
> >
> >>Desert Lurker wrote:
> >>
> >>>John Hwang wrote:
> >>
> >>>>Hmm... back to lead shot then.
> >>
> >>>should I look for shotgun reload shot from my gun store...
> >>
> >>Yes.
> >
> >
> > Just as a reminder: Lead shot is fairly safe. Lead *dust* is not.
> >
> > Number 12 birdshot pellets are sized at @0 .050in in diameter.
> >
> > They'll compact nicely without requiring any special precautions.
> >
> > Any gage smaller tends to exhibit some of the qualities of *dust*.
> >
> > Use a shot/ PVA slurry, but be careful not to fill the base to the
> > 'top'.
> >
> > If overfilled they'll need to be filed, and then you're back to *dust*
> > .
> >
> > The real trick is keeping all those figs inverted until the glue sets .
> > . .
> >
> > HTH
> >
> >
> > Playa

Excellent points Playa. I'll have to look for some number 12 shot
myself as it would seem the most practical way of weighting a large
number of gaunt bases. As for keeping them inverted, that's what
'Playdough' was really invented for. Non oil based, and if it dries
out, it's designed to be revitrified by simply adding water to it in
small amounts.

>
> What about just pushing some pellets into green stuff?
>
That would work, though I imagine you'll be about to find epoxy
for less than the green stuff would cost (by volume). If you do go with
green stuff, put a layer of shot in the inverted base and green stuff
over it - again, as Playa pointed out - so as to prevent developing lead
dust over time and wear on the base.

Myr

--
#1582. I think they call it Warhammer "40K" because that is how
much you are going to have to make per year in order to play.

- Eric Noland

# 1082. Pound for pound I can buy cocaine cheaper than
raise a Warhammer army

- Roy Cox

http://www.PetitionOnline.com/gwprice/

****

RGMW FAQ: http://www.rgmw.org

Or...

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"Myrmidon" <ImNot@home.com> wrote in message
news:MPG.1c902e4022bf8c7798a4ac@news-server.woh.rr.com...

> > What about just pushing some pellets into green stuff?
> >
> That would work, though I imagine you'll be about to find epoxy
> for less than the green stuff would cost (by volume). >

Myr, et al... ~3 foot rolls of green stuff can be had for $10-12 at fortress
figures:
http://secure.nxco.com/fortress/cgi-bin/figures/store/commerce.cgi?cart_id=7580016.26100&product=Epoxy_Putty
Neal at the Warstore carries about the same, "4 times as much as GW's" (4 x
8"=32")for $13. I'd go with Neal for rep alone.

Donovan Borman

 

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Myrmidon wrote:
> Desert Lurker, ironman150.spam@ridgenet.net Varfed ...

>>>Just as a reminder: Lead shot is fairly safe. Lead *dust* is not.

Yes. Avoid eating sunflower seeds while handling lead shot.

>>>Number 12 birdshot pellets are sized at @0 .050in in diameter.

>>>Use a shot/ PVA slurry, but be careful not to fill the base to the
>>>'top'.

I recommended 2-part epoxy because it's a little denser and tougher.

>>>The real trick is keeping all those figs inverted until the glue sets .

> As for keeping them inverted, that's what
> 'Playdough' was really invented for.

I suspend them from their bases when I'm gluing pennies. Either hang
inverted between a couple of sticks, or like a kabob with the stick
between the feet.

>>What about just pushing some pellets into green stuff?

Liquid is easier, dries level and flat.

--
--- John Hwang "JohnHwang...@cs.com.no.com"
\-|-/
| A.K.D. F.E.M.C.
| Horned Blood Cross Terror LED Speed Jagd Destiny

 

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" Donovan Borman" <borscope@charter.net> wrote in message
newsHwVd.3721$xf6.3614@fe04.lga...
>
> "Myrmidon" <ImNot@home.com> wrote in message
> news:MPG.1c902e4022bf8c7798a4ac@news-server.woh.rr.com...
>
> > > What about just pushing some pellets into green stuff?
> > >
> > That would work, though I imagine you'll be about to find epoxy
> > for less than the green stuff would cost (by volume). >
>
> Myr, et al... ~3 foot rolls of green stuff can be had for $10-12 at
fortress
> figures:
>
http://secure.nxco.com/fortress/cgi-bin/figures/store/commerce.cgi?cart_id=7580016.26100&product=Epoxy_Putty
> Neal at the Warstore carries about the same, "4 times as much as GW's" (4
x
> 8"=32")for $13. I'd go with Neal for rep alone.
>

In case some poor soul doesn't know the URL it's www.thewarstore.com

 

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Archived from groups: rec.games.miniatures.warhammer (More info?)

John Hwang wrote:
> Myrmidon wrote:
> > Desert Lurker, ironman150.spam@ridgenet.net Varfed ...
>
> >>>Just as a reminder: Lead shot is fairly safe. Lead *dust* is not.
>
> Yes. Avoid eating sunflower seeds while handling lead shot.
>
> >>>Number 12 birdshot pellets are sized at @0 .050in in diameter.
>
> >>>Use a shot/ PVA slurry, but be careful not to fill the base to the
> >>>'top'.
>
> I recommended 2-part epoxy because it's a little denser and tougher.
>
> >>>The real trick is keeping all those figs inverted until the glue
sets .
>
> > As for keeping them inverted, that's what
> > 'Playdough' was really invented for.
>
> I suspend them from their bases when I'm gluing pennies. Either hang

> inverted between a couple of sticks, or like a kabob with the stick
> between the feet.
>
> >>What about just pushing some pellets into green stuff?
>
> Liquid is easier, dries level and flat.

Very well, I shall comply...
Thanks for all the help!

-Joe