A 4.1 GHz Dual Core at $130 - Can it be True?

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You'll really need to list ALL you components to help figure things out, including brand and model of case, power supply, video board, etc.

A couple of things that I've noticed already:
1) The Ninja article that I found describes it as a fanless heatpipe, which obviously wouldn't be appropriate for OCing a power hog like the 805D. Are you perhaps using a different model Ninja, or a fan attached to your Ninja?
2) In any case, non-"flower" style CPU hsfs like the Ninja (and my Freezer 7 Pro) don't meet the socket 775 Intel thermal spec, because they don't blow air down onto the MB and out in all directions to cool the surrounding components.
I had to rig up a small pair of extra fans to cool my board's PWM area and the radiator for the northbridge hs. Have you checked temps on your board's PWM area? For my board, it's actually the PWMs and/or Northbridge that limit the OC potential, not the CPU.
3) The RAM shouldn't be affected by your raising the CPU FSB, unless you raised the memory bus speed at the same time, or maintained the same FSB:memory speed ratio, which would do the same thing.
 
you mentioned that a fanless motherboard could have something to do with this...my motherboard (ASUS p5wd2-e premium) is fanless. Do I need to get the "flower" type fan or can I work around it by getting some other type of fan (I don't know what the PWM area is that you referred to)
 
The PWM area is the circuitry that supplies power to the CPU, typically containing a number of standing cylindrical capacitors, some coils, and some voltage regulators. Looking at a photo of your board, the area to the right of the CPU, and especially behind the CPU, toward the purple parallel port connector, is the PWM area. I looks like there might be a big heatsink just in front of the purple connector -- that's probably not getting much airflow. The northbridge (the heatsink labeled ASUS to the left of the CPU) is probably not getting that much airflow either.
The MB page also talks about an "AI Quiet" function that affects CPU and CPU fan speed -- I would *definitely* disable that (in the BIOS?).
 
I posted this before and meant to connect it to the 805D discussion, but unfortunately failed to do so. Here is the post in the correct place.

Any help would be appreciated.

------------------------------------

Does anyone know if the 805D will work on the Nvidia 590 Intel SLI boards? I know they are not out now, so I am really looking for a hypothesis. I apologize if this has already been asked.

I know that the board is designed to operate at a minimum of 800 FSB, and the 805D is defaulted to 533 or 667 (can't remember which, but I think it is 533), but perhaps you can start it out OC'ed to 800 if you are willing to take the risk, or perhaps you can underclock the FSB if the board has the capability (perhaps ASUS will have this option).

I have an 805D proc, but I want a Core Duo compatible board so I don't have to upgrade the board soon after I get one for the 805D. Obviously Nvidia's website does not show the 805D as being supported, but since it is such an OC'ing monster, I am eager to hear what everyone thinks.

Thanks for the advice!!
 
I know this is late, but i want to know why this wont work?
i really wanted a SLI setup
am i running out of power? read on



Overclock P5N32 SLI SE Deluxe

Specs

PSU = Thermaltake 650watt atx 2.0
Fan = Zalman CPS9500
Proc = Intel 805D 2.66GHZ @ 3.65GHz vcore = 1.288
MOBO = P5N32 SLI SE Deluxe 0401 bios
Graphics = eVGA 7950 GT
RAM = DDR2 Twinx cosair 2048 6400c ram 800MHZ
Hard drives = 2 x 300GB Maxtor 7200 rpm sata (RAID 0)
1 x 80GB seagate
OS = Windows XP 32 BIT

Ok so im overclocking a pentium D805 processor, i have the thing right now overclocked to 3.65 GHZ a 732 FSB divided by four being 183 external clock with no vcore increase, the vcore running at 1.288 volts, and its perfectly stable, here's where the problem is

Problem: so i have a Zalman CPS9500 keeps the processor relatively cool idling well below 40 Celsius full load can get as high as 49, but i know i can clock the processor higher and keep it stable with this fan, so for me to change the external clock on this board i have to change the FSB which is 4 x the external clock, so if go to 733 the system doesn't boot, 734 735 same thing, i have to power it off, power it on and the cpr kicks in and recovers the default settings, i tried increasing the core voltage but it still doesn't work.

Here's where it gets interesting, ok so i get frustrated, cause my goal ultimately is 800 fsb or 820 fsb for an external clock of 200 or 205 mhz which will equal a proc speed of 4.00 GHz or 4.10 GHz,

ok so im frustrated and just blast the FSB to 800, and i increase the core voltage to 1.6500 volts, and it boots i see 3999 mhz i get into the bios sitting at 52-53 degrees Celsius, im thinking any real load will kill it, but here's the pointer i set it to 1.6500 volts, when i check what the vcore is getting its sitting at 1.588 so my question here is, do you think its my power supply or over heating that i cant get my system to boot correctly when i pass 183 external clock? ill try and come up with screens and a tutorial of what I've done later but im at work right now.

my power supply is a thermal take 650 watt atx 2.0 power supply, i have the 8 pin rail plugged into the mobo, so i think it should have plenty of power, it doesn't make sense that its over heating to me cause i saw toms hardware with themputures of 72 degrees Celsius before crashing, thats not even burning up. plus it has TM2 so i really want to think its power. cause i can fix that, i want to do it with this board. but if anyone has any intel or if you guys need screens ill have them later.

oh yea i also have a eVGA Geforce 7950 GT video card, i have the supplemental 4 pin rail plugged into it also, does this drag away from the amperage of the 8 pin rail going to the mobo?
 
just an update: I've spent much money on cooling just my CPU, which is running at around 59 C at idel unclocked. I've tried all suggestions: I have some mini fans blowing on the motherboard, I have arctic silver thermal grease, I have the zalman uber fan at full blast. When exporting videos my computer will often shut off from overheating, it gets to around 77 C (unclocked, not even at 100% activity).

What the fuck could possibly be going on? Anyone? Anyone? The installation is just fine, don't even mention it (please). So the only thing I can think of doing now is to install a liquid cooling system with alcohol instead of water...
 
I've had my D805 for a good few months and i'm very pleased with it. Here's some answers to some questions i've just seen floating around over the last 3 pages (sorry, the thread is too long to read from the beginning😛 )

The program that reads out the cool stuff from page 6 of the article on tomshardware.com is called CPU-Z, it's found here:
http://www.cpuid.com/download/cpu-z-137.zip

They also used a different program to read out the stock voltage of their D805 using the Rightmark CPU clock utility - this also gives readings related to throttling etc. It can be found here:
http://cpu.rightmark.org/download/rmclock_215_bin.rar

Depending on your stock voltage your D805 could idle anywhere from the reported 30's up to the high 50's. It also depends on your air circulation within your case. The people with Vcore's in the 1.2v region should be idling in the low regions, the closer to 1.4v you get the hotter you should be expect it to idle.

ANYONE with some severe air cooling contraptions (you know who you are 😉 ) who is having issues with high temps at low clock speeds should try removing blank drive covers at the front of their case to let more cold air in the front.

My D805's core voltage is 1.3625v and i'm using a Zalman CNPS-9500. When i first purchased it it was idling in the 50's full load 68ish at stock speed/voltage. When I removed two empty drive bay covers my temps immediately dropeed 6 degrees! So i'm now idling in the 40's full load 62 at stock. I then removed the final drive bay cover and mounted a 12cm fan in it, and my temps dropped a little further 😛

Overclocking the D805 up to 3.4Ghz or 3.5Ghz results in a very very small temperature increase as the extra power consumption goes to processing power. In the article in tomshardware they mention that the power consumption at 3.33Ghz increases only marginally over the stock speeds which means even less of the tiny increase goes to making it hotter. It's only after the 3.6Ghz area that temps start skyrocketing 😛

It's also worth noting that in the tomshardware article they incraesed the northbridge voltage on their P5WD2-E after 3.6 or 3.8Ghz to keep it stable, and also that they were effectively underclocking their RAM up to the 4Ghz mark.

Hope this helps
 
Has Anyone overclocked this with a P5N32-SLI Deluxe?

I had this motherboard given to me recently and when I change the CPU setting to Manual in the BIOS I am unable to make any changes to the FSB frequency.

It remains at 533, the same for the memory it remains at 800
 
Have you looked in the manual? The web site says:
SFS (Stepless Frequency Selection) allows
- FSB tuning from 133MHz up to 400MHz at 1MHz increment
- Memory tuning from 533MHz up to 1200MHz at 1MHz increment
- PCI Express frequency tuning from 100MHz up to 150MHz at 1MHz increment
Click to expand...
 
Yes, I should be able to step the FSB but when I try nothing happens.

It shows as an option once I set the CPU setting to manual, but when I highlight it and hit the enter button ...nothing happens.
 
Yep, the +/- key's work.... that is not what the verbage says off to the right in the BIOS when you highlight it but that did work...

Thank you
 
I had lots of issues with that motherboard and this processor. I could not OC it all that much and have it be stable. Others have had a lot of luck with it. You definitely need the latest bios before you start OC'ing it though.

I ended up returning it, and am hoping I can use either a nVidia 590, or the latest nVidia chipset that should be coming out in November (655i or something like that). It is supposed to be a great OC'er. Only question I have is whether you can adjust the clock down to the 533 Mhz level to start out as the board defaults to 800 Mhz.

Have fun.
 
Update:

We've been running 2 805Ds now for just over 5 months.

One was at 4.1GHz on water for about 4 months, but was just converted a month ago to 4.0GHz on air. I changed from a Lian Li PC65 case to a Thermaltake Gandalf for better air circulation. Using a Thermaltake Big Typhoon CPU cooler on it. Very quiet and does the job well. I should also mention that I changed from the Asus P5WD2-E Premium to a Gigabyte GA-965P-DQ6 motherboard when changing cases. All other components remain the same. (I really hated the sound quality of the Asus board, well all Asus boards for that matter. The new board has much better onboard sound and is quad core ready when the time comes.)

The 2nd system is at 3.8GHz on air with the Gigabyte G-Power Pro. In the past couple days, the system has begun to reboot out of thin air. There is decent air flow in the case with a separate CPU fan in the door. Raising the CPU fan speed made no difference. No errors show up in the event viewer and nothing looks out of the ordinary on the system monitors. However, I've been forced to reduce the CPU to 3.2GHz to keep it running.

A bit strange as this was the least taxed of the 2 systems. Time will tell how long the other CPU holds up to this punishment.

Best of luck with your own projects. 🙂
 
I am using the new EVGA 680i MB to OC the 805D and am getting some interesting voltage readings. The board defaulted my voltage settings to like 1.24, when Tom's says the default should be 1.37. Also, even if I set the voltage in the bios to 1.37, the bios and CPU-Z report something like 1.28....

Are there any tools other than a physical multimeter that I can use to verify the voltage levels. nVida included a monitor, but it is showing wildly high voltage levels....

Also, has anyone else used this board for OC'ing the 805D? If anyone has any experience with this combo I would love to hear about it.

I have been able to OC from 2.66 to 3.33 without changing any voltage settings or memory timing settings, and that is with voltage being 1.24... But after running for a little while at 100% at 3.6, I started to have issues. So I have been trying to bump up the voltage level, but the voltages seem to be a little fishy. I also dropped the Hyper Transport link from 5X to 4X and bumped the memory voltage a little bit.

Thanks
 
...

Are there any tools other than a physical multimeter that I can use to verify the voltage levels. nVida included a monitor, but it is showing wildly high voltage levels....
Click to expand...
Nope, and the built-in voltage monitor is not very accurate. +/- 10% is probably what to expect.
 
tbh id go on power consumption and just wait for E4300 and buy one of those and overclock it well down side is you need a pretty good motherboard for high overclocks but overall best option
 
Usually there's BIOS updates to fix such problems. Have the latest BIOS?

I haven't used the Nvidia 600 series mainly because of all the problems with Nforce3 and Nforce4 chipsets with RAID. I see the 680i also has issues with hard drives not writing correctly. There's a hotfix available for that now. Only Intel chipsets with Intel CPUs for me.

Had you gone with a 965P or 975X by either Asus or Gigabyte, you'd have a program for monitoring voltages and temps (PC Probe or Easy-Tune). Both have always been very accurate for me. All of which does you no good now.

Won't any 3rd party voltage monitors work? I've found CPU-Z to be pretty accurate, and SpeedFan isn't too bad in a pinch. Of course if the motherboard is sending the wrong figures, no software will read it correctly. :-s
 
dl, the OP is presumably getting correct readouts of the sensors. The problem is that the sensors themselves are not very accurate -- software won't change that.
Click to expand...

Understood, but I'm assuming at this point he/she didn't know whether it was the sensors for the MB itself or the software that was "all over the place".

Case in point, the reason I didn't mention Everest is because it monitors my voltages wrong with both versions (Ultimate and Home, which by the way is no longer free as both versions are now shareware). While Everest claims I'm running 1.3v, both my BIOS and CPU-Z state the correct 1.5v. 🙂
 
Fair enough. I'd hope that the BIOS at least is showing correct temps. Since there are so many hardware variations out there, it's understandable (but still annoying!) when one of these programs gets a temp wrong or a memory bus clock wrong.
 
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