[SOLVED] Asus z97 blank screen at boot

Cale810

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Hey, I just finished putting my first PC together and at start-up, I get a signal but it's just a blank screen. The motherboard I'm using has a red light on Boot_Device_Led and I have tried everything I can think of. Thanks.
 

Cale810

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Oct 30, 2022
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<Mod Edit for readability>

Cpu is a Xenon e3 1220 v3 sr154,

motherboard is Asus z97 A S# (EAM0CS161239),

Memory kit is Micron DDR3 (4GBx4) PC2L-12800E MT9KSF51272AZ-1G6E1ZF ECC ram.

PSU is a Thermaltake Smart 430W 80+ black continuous power atx 12v v2.3/eps PS-SPD-0430NPCWUS-W.

Graphics card is an AMD Radeon RX460 2GB GDDR5 Video Card HP 910486-022.

The storage device is a seagate SV35.5 ST3500410SV9SK142-500 FW: CV12 500GB 7200RPM 16MB Cache SATA HDD.

Cpu cooler is ID-COOLING SE-214-XT ARGB CPU Cooler (5V 3-PIN Connector) also all fans run when attempting boot up.
 
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Did you just get all this hardware, used? Separately or did it all come together?

Have you tried using one a single DIMM, and each one separately if the first one fails to make any change? Installed in the A2 slot.

Have you tried without any storage devices connected?

In fact, what exactly HAVE you done, or not done?
 

Cale810

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1. I bought everything used except for the pcu, CPU cooling unit, and tower.

2. I finished putting everything together and ran into my problem

3. I tried using only one stick of ram in the first slot, then the third slot. Also removed all the ram to ensure there was no dust or debris.

4. I removed the CMOS battery for around 15 minutes and then restarted it.

5. I removed the motherboard to ensure there were no wires or anything shorting the board out.

6. I tried running the unit without the hard drive hooked up.

7. I tried running it with 1 stick of ram, the CPU, and CPU cooler, no hard drive, and no GPU. Also without any wires for the case plugged in.

8. I added windows 10 and the latest BIOS to a USB grasping at straws

9. I came here and decided to see if anyone could help me in a forum. Thank you by the way I appreciate you taking time out of your day to help me.
 
You have ECC memory and that motherboard does not support ECC memory.

Also, your CPU does not have integrated graphics so you MUST have a graphics card installed or you will never get a display signal and you must have your display cable connected to one of the outputs on the graphics card since the motherboard outputs will not work without a CPU that has integrated graphics. But the ECC memory is your problem here.
 
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SDRAM "IS" DRAM.

You need standard high density DDR3 SDRAM. Older low density DDR3 won't work/isn't supported on that platform. It's unlikely you'd see any of that unless you bought it used anyhow, but worth mentioning.

What country are you in? How much memory do you want and at what speed? What is your maximum budget for the purchase of memory?
 

Cale810

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Ah, I see. I'm in the USA and really don't care what speed as I'm only planning on some light gaming for the time being. I would say my max budget is around 40-50 USD on memory for now. I saw G.Skill PC3-14900 4GB DIMM 1866 MHz DDR3 SDRAM Memory (F3-14900CL9D-8GBSR) 16GB and am wondering if that would work.
 
Well, that's definitely a drag, but of course you bought all this stuff used so you knew going in there was a real chance for problems and if you didn't, you should have and you do now. This is exactly why I keep trying to tell people not to buy used graphics cards or motherboards. They are usually, more often than not, faulty or have some kind of problem.

So, this is probably a motherboard issue but I suppose it could be a lot of things.


I think the first thing you need to do is verify that the graphics card works. And to do that you will need to either have another system you can try it in, or know somebody with a system that will let you try it in their machine, or take it to a shop to have them test the card in one of their systems.
 

Cale810

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I havn't gotten the chance to get the GPU tested but if it turned out to be faulty would you recommend I buy a used or new GPU? Im looking at the msi GeForce GTX 1630 but the 4gb new is the same price as the 6gb used.
 
Then depending on what you definition of "light gaming" is, you might want to consider something a little better. The GTX 1630 is pretty much a joke in that regard.


Especially considering you can get a WAY, WAY more capable RX 580 that will grossly outperform it at 1080p for like ten bucks more. Or even a RX 6500 XT for twenty bucks more than the GTX 1630.

PCPartPicker Part List

Video Card: XFX GTR XXX Radeon RX 580 8 GB Video Card ($149.99 @ Best Buy)
Total: $149.99
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2022-11-13 21:09 EST-0500



If you just need basic graphics and the ability to play like browser based games, then save yourself some money and go with something really cheap like the GT 730 or RX 550.
 

Cale810

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I just got the unit checked out and they said the most likely culprit is the 430w PSU and to try to upgrade to at least a 650w or 750w. the other thing it could be is either a faulty motherboard or a faulty CPU. They also checked out the RAM and GPU and verified that they both worked. Where do you think I should go from here? Purchase a 750w PSU? or attempt to return the motherboard and PSU and get some new ones. Thanks
 
They said "most likely"? They couldn't tell you for CERTAIN? If so, then they didn't test anything. I sure hope you didn't pay them anything to tell you it could be the PSU, motherboard or CPU, all of which we already knew it COULD be. The whole point was to have them tell you what it was or was not.

If you bought new memory, then it wasn't that.

An RX460 WITH the rest of the system, only needs a decent 400w power supply, so that 430w Smart PSU that you said was new, should have been perfectly fine for that configuration. If it wasn't new, then sure, it could be the problem. If it was new, then it most likely is not. There is absolutely no reason why you should need a 650 or 750w power supply for that configuration. None.

If they had TESTED the graphics card, which is what they were supposed to do, we'd know one way or the other whether it was or was not the graphics card. But since they clearly did not, that was simply a waste of time and hopefully was not also a waste of your money. If they charged you ANYTHING to tell you "well, it might be this or that" then you should go back and demand a refund. Perhaps even threaten to get the local District Attorney and consumer affairs involved or report them to the regional branch of the Federal trade commision (FTC) that oversees consumer affairs. If you are in the US anyhow. If not, then whatever agencies handle such things in your country or region. If they did not charge you anything, then going to a more REPUTABLE repair shop that CAN test the card in another system to verify it is good or bad would still be the first thing you should do.

Guessing what is wrong is not what you want to be doing. Without knowing if the graphics card even works there is no way of knowing if anything else is not working. We need to KNOW that the GPU is either good or not good. If it is not good, then you need to get one that works. If it IS good, then we need to figure out why there is no display and what is causing it.
 

Cale810

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Yeah, I went to best buy and they said they put the GPU in a unit and it displayed. I didn't pay them for it either but they said if I pay them 200$ plus the parts fee then they can get it up and running I declined cus I do kinda enjoy building it and that's kinda pricey. They were pretty vague with their diagnosis tho and I was disappointed but it was free so I can't really complain. What are your thoughts now that we know the GPU works? Also yes, I did buy the PSU new.
 
So, graphics card verified working. Power supply brand new. Memory brand new (Assuming you did buy a new kit and not a used one).

That leaves the motherboard and CPU and while either of them could be bad we definitely see problems with faulty motherboards FAR more often than we do CPUs. However, finding a good motherboard that is compatible with that CPU is probably more expensive than finding another CPU that is compatible with that motherboard, so if you have to GUESS and roll the dice on throwing money at it to see what the problem is I'd probably go with the CPU first. This works in two ways.

One, if it is the CPU you will know and the problem is solved.

Two, if the problem is NOT the CPU, then you now know and have an extra CPU to keep around as a backup or you can simply resell it to recoup your money.

I'm not suggesting that you should buy THIS particular one, I am only posting a link to it as an example.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/275254325670