Question B660, Z670 or Z690

[demidemon]

I've been trying to find ways to make my build a bit cheaper, however I'm now stuck on which board to get. I've looked at several, I'm not overly interested in OCing but I am also keeping it on the table just in case I may have to as I'd like to stream and game from one PC. I'm going with an i7-12700k CPU for the core and for RAM I picked out G.Skill Trident Z 32 (2 x 16) DDR4 4000. If anyone needs to see the whole build, just let me know.

I've been recommended the b660 because I don't overly intend to OC, I've been told I should save on that same board and pick up a MSI Z690, I'm not sure where to go with this as there is plenty of options and I'm trying to look for a good overall motherboard without spending 300 or more for one.

These are the ones I've found or have had suggested to me. I'm still looking so I may wind up updating the list at some point.

ASRock H670 PG Riptide ATX
Gigabyte B660M GAMING X AX DDR4
Asus ROG STRIX B660-A GAMING
Asus ROG STRIX Z690-A
MSI PRO Z690-A DDR4

 

[Why_Me]

If you have no plans to overlock then I'd look at the 12700F. That cpu uses less power and runs cooler. B660 for a single M.2 SSD and H670 / Z690 for dual M.2 SSD's due to bandwidth. tbh a single M.2 SSD is more than fine.

https://www.amazon.com/Intel-i7-12700F-2-1GHz-6xxChipset-BX8071512700F/dp/B09NPJDPVG/
Intel Core i7-12700F $312.96

https://ark.intel.com/content/www/u...2700f-processor-25m-cache-up-to-4-90-ghz.html

https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16813144528
MSI MAG B660M BAZOOKA DDR4 $129.99

https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/MAG-B660M-BAZOOKA-DDR4

https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16813144522
MSI MAG B660M MORTAR WIFI DDR4 $159.99

https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/MAG-B660M-MORTAR-WIFI-DDR4

i7 12700 / 12700F gaming benchmarks.

 

[Why_Me]

btw what is your full build that you have planned?

 

[demidemon]

If you have no plans to overlock then I'd look at the 12700F. That cpu uses less power and runs cooler. B660 for a single M.2 SSD and H670 / Z690 for dual M.2 SSD's due to bandwidth. tbh a single M.2 SSD is more than fine.

https://www.amazon.com/Intel-i7-12700F-2-1GHz-6xxChipset-BX8071512700F/dp/B09NPJDPVG/
Intel Core i7-12700F $312.96

https://ark.intel.com/content/www/u...2700f-processor-25m-cache-up-to-4-90-ghz.html

https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16813144528
MSI MAG B660M BAZOOKA DDR4 $129.99

https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/MAG-B660M-BAZOOKA-DDR4

https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16813144522
MSI MAG B660M MORTAR WIFI DDR4 $159.99

https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/MAG-B660M-MORTAR-WIFI-DDR4

i7 12700 / 12700F gaming benchmarks.

-snipped image-

Actually, you've spoken to me before about this, after looking at the F, I decided not to go with that specific core. That is also almost the same exact post you made to me a while back after finding the old thread, I really hate making new ones but I've got different questions almost every time. -lol-

Thank you for the boards, btw, I will look into those more as well. Question about micro atx boards, with a EVGA FTW3 3080 card, would those boards fit in an internal capture card? Looking at the Elgato but unsure if I want to go internal or external yet.

Also that second SSD is for storage, I decided to go with an SSD this time instead of an HD drive. Also, before you suggest going with smaller SSDs, I doubt I will be going lower than 4TB, the size of some of my games are almost 200GB or above, mainly Ark being in the above as all the maps, dinos and mods I use tend to eat space.


https://pcpartpicker.com/user/demonicvampiregirl/saved/7d79CJ

or

https://pcpartpicker.com/user/demonicvampiregirl/saved/zdMKqs

Unless I can find some changes mainly board, monitor and potentially case fans. Wanting to stick with all corsair but some of the prices for their fan packs are insane, so may go with the ones listed as I've got them in my current case and they seem to be doing just fine. Going to use the 5000D airflow and using all 6 front fan slots as intake.

 

[Why_Me]

No idea why you're going with the $400 12700K + $190 360mm AIO and $320 board when you have no plans to overclock not to mention that Corsair case must have pretty bad airflow if you need to add that many fans to it. And as far as going all Corsair .... that EVGA psu in your build says otherwise. There is a ridiculous amount of fat that can be trimmed off your build without sacrificing performance and btw the difference between the 12700K / KF and a 12700 / 12700F is a whopping one frame per second difference. 500GB M.2 SSD for Windows & apps + 2TB M.2 SSD for games, etc ... + 2.5" SATA SSD for streams.

This case was just released and has that 5000D beat seven ways to Sunday. Google the reviews on it. And no this case doesn't require anymore fans which saves you a boatload of money.

https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16811112601
LIAN LI Lancool III RGB Black Aluminum / SECC / Tempered Glass ATX Mid Tower Computer Case $159.99

LANCOOL III

<ul> <li aria-level="1">Mid-tower modular chassis for all kinds of configurations</li> <li aria-level="1">Equipped with 4 × 140 PWM fans (ARGB or non-RGB)</li> <li aria-level="1">Featured airflow optimized mesh structure and hinged side panels</li> <li aria-level="1">Supports up to 420...

lian-li.com

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09NWFPC34
ASUS TUF GAMING H670-PRO WIFI D4 $220.99

TUF GAMING H670-PRO WIFI D4｜Motherboards｜ASUS Global

TUF Gaming series distills essential elements of the latest AMD and Intel® platforms, and combines them with game-ready features and proven durability. Engineered with military-grade components, an upgraded power solution and a comprehensive set of cooling options, this motherboard delivers...

www.asus.com

Top mount this AIO.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08WRJ5MQW
ARCTIC Liquid Freezer II 240 A-RGB AIO $111.99

https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/gaming/easy-streaming-wizard.html

 

[demidemon]

No idea why you're going with the $400 12700K + $190 360mm AIO and $320 board when you have no plans to overclock not to mention that Corsair case must have pretty bad airflow if you need to add that many fans to it. And as far as going all Corsair .... that EVGA psu in your build says otherwise. There is a ridiculous amount of fat that can be trimmed off your build without sacrificing performance and btw the difference between the 12700K / KF and a 12700 / 12700F is a whopping one frame per second difference. 500GB M.2 SSD for Windows & apps + 2TB M.2 SSD for games, etc ... + 2.5" SATA SSD for streams.

This case was just released and has that 5000D beat seven ways to Sunday. Google the reviews on it. And no this case doesn't require anymore fans which saves you a boatload of money.

https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16811112601
LIAN LI Lancool III RGB Black Aluminum / SECC / Tempered Glass ATX Mid Tower Computer Case $159.99

LANCOOL III

<ul> <li aria-level="1">Mid-tower modular chassis for all kinds of configurations</li> <li aria-level="1">Equipped with 4 × 140 PWM fans (ARGB or non-RGB)</li> <li aria-level="1">Featured airflow optimized mesh structure and hinged side panels</li> <li aria-level="1">Supports up to 420...

lian-li.com

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09NWFPC34
ASUS TUF GAMING H670-PRO WIFI D4 $220.99

TUF GAMING H670-PRO WIFI D4｜Motherboards｜ASUS Global

TUF Gaming series distills essential elements of the latest AMD and Intel® platforms, and combines them with game-ready features and proven durability. Engineered with military-grade components, an upgraded power solution and a comprehensive set of cooling options, this motherboard delivers...

www.asus.com

Top mount this AIO.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08WRJ5MQW
ARCTIC Liquid Freezer II 240 A-RGB AIO $111.99

https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/gaming/easy-streaming-wizard.html

The AIO is because it will keep it coolest, I'm also in the room in the house that has the hottest temps at times due to no shade and kitchen/washer & drier being nearby. I'm literally just one room away from both. Prices between the F and K versions are not that different, maybe 80ish. So why not grab the higher end model then? I have said before I would like to find a different z690 board if I can, I found the Prime one but wanted opinions on it.

Actually it was rated one of the best for airflow, I just want to make sure I have plenty, even if it's overkill. I'm not one for heat at all, even the PC I have currently I can tell every time the GPU starts going above 70, I'll still be right beside this new build but it will be off to the side rather than on my knee caps, so hopefully between it, the fans and it being even closer to the AC, I wont feel anything.

As for the ssd, I am not going to be saving my streams, it's literally just storage for games. I said that earlier too, I am unlikely to get 2 SSDs to do what I want one to do. I'm going to put some extra stuff on the first drive this time than I did last, so that will free space as is. The 1TB is to counter that as I have plenty of music and saved files, plus probably anywhere between 10-12 CDs still to rip that I cannot reach atm.

I also have to keep in mind I intend to stream from the exact same PC as I am playing from, I am unsure if the 12700F will be a problem or not in this case. The only benefit I can see going with the F over the K is power draw is nearly half.

The temps from that case that I found on a video are based on stock, no extras and the Corsair 5000D only comes with one intake and the radiator fan. I definitely am not going to just use two fans, I will at least use 7, the 3 side ones are optional but highly considering it either way, especially if they pull air in rather than out.

I'll look at that motherboard, I think I saw it when I was looking earlier.

Doesn't top mounting increase the CPU heat because it has to exhaust all of the heat from the case out through that? Wouldn't front mounting be better?

Also, I intend to use OBS as I've got plenty of friends who use it and can ask for help if need be that way.

 

[KyaraM]

https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16813144489

This is the board I use with my 12700k. It's affordable and good. Far too often overlooked, too, the Bazooka has so little over it it's a bit annoying to see it recommended so often. Also exists in DDR5 and WiFi versions for both DDR4 and DDR5. Allows OC as well in case you want to go that route.

As for the cooler, get a good air cooler over an AIO. Both the BeQuiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 and even the Noctua NH-D15 will keep that chip nice and cool while being massively cheaper than any AIO, with lower failure chance and no chance of leaks destroying anything. Even a weaker cooler can keep this chip in acceptable temperature ranges.

 

[demidemon]

https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16813144489

This is the board I use with my 12700k. It's affordable and good. Far too often overlooked, too, the Bazooka has so little over it it's a bit annoying to see it recommended so often. Also exists in DDR5 and WiFi versions for both DDR4 and DDR5. Allows OC as well in case you want to go that route.

As for the cooler, get a good air cooler over an AIO. Both the BeQuiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 and even the Noctua NH-D15 will keep that chip nice and cool while being massively cheaper than any AIO, with lower failure chance and no chance of leaks destroying anything. Even a weaker cooler can keep this chip in acceptable temperature ranges.

I'll look at that board.

As for air cooling over AIO, I'm considering options still but likely to still stick with an AIO. I may be looking at a new nvme after reading the WD SN850 gets rather warm, I intend to use it as a boot drive and storage for some files. I'm just trying to keep it as cool as possible so it doesn't get add heat to my legs as I'm on the hottest end of my house. Dx

 

[KyaraM]

I'll look at that board.

As for air cooling over AIO, I'm considering options still but likely to still stick with an AIO. I may be looking at a new nvme after reading the WD SN850 gets rather warm, I intend to use it as a boot drive and storage for some files. I'm just trying to keep it as cool as possible so it doesn't get add heat to my legs as I'm on the hottest end of my house. Dx

I use the WD Black SN850! Boot drive and most important games, so pretty much always busy. Never seen it go above 50°C with the mainboard heatsink, which is pretty much perfect operating temperature iirc. Wouldn't worry too much, honestly.

 

[Nighthawk117]

I've been trying to find ways to make my build a bit cheaper, however I'm now stuck on which board to get. I've looked at several, I'm not overly interested in OCing but I am also keeping it on the table just in case I may have to as I'd like to stream and game from one PC. I'm going with an i7-12700k CPU for the core and for RAM I picked out G.Skill Trident Z 32 (2 x 16) DDR4 4000. If anyone needs to see the whole build, just let me know.

I've been recommended the b660 because I don't overly intend to OC, I've been told I should save on that same board and pick up a MSI Z690, I'm not sure where to go with this as there is plenty of options and I'm trying to look for a good overall motherboard without spending 300 or more for one.

These are the ones I've found or have had suggested to me. I'm still looking so I may wind up updating the list at some point.

ASRock H670 PG Riptide ATX
Gigabyte B660M GAMING X AX DDR4
Asus ROG STRIX B660-A GAMING
Asus ROG STRIX Z690-A
MSI PRO Z690-A DDR4

I would go for something like the MSI MAG Z690, that's slightly cheaper than the Strix and still gets you a quality board with good features. The B660M Mag Mortar is also a very good quality board and significantly cheaper but is mATX so has less future expandability for things like storage. I would avoid cutting corners on the board though, you picked the i7 12700K, you asked for this You'd be better saving money on the RAM instead IMO.

https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E168131...ag z690-_-13-144-487-_-Product&quicklink=true

 

[demidemon]

I use the WD Black SN850! Boot drive and most important games, so pretty much always busy. Never seen it go above 50°C with the mainboard heatsink, which is pretty much perfect operating temperature iirc. Wouldn't worry too much, honestly.

I'm also seeing if I can cut a bit off to get some better RAM if possible. Considering grabbing two 870 Evos, one at 1TB and the 4TB. I've been adjusting this build all night even. My only issue is it seems I'd notice a drop in boot time if I went with a SSD. I've got a 970 Pro in my current build. May see what prices on them are like too.

 

[demidemon]

I would go for something like the MSI MAG Z690, that's slightly cheaper than the Strix and still gets you a quality board with good features. The B660M Mag Mortar is also a very good quality board and significantly cheaper but is mATX so has less future expandability for things like storage. I would avoid cutting corners on the board though, you picked the i7 12700K, you asked for this You'd be better saving money on the RAM instead IMO.

https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16813144487?Description=msi mag z690&cm_re=msi_mag z690--13-144-487--Product&quicklink=true

Been suggested the Pro Z690-A as well for MSI boards, will look at both and definitely going to skip Micro ATX. Would like to put a potential internal capture card in it, so will need the space especially with an EVGA FTW3 3080.

I'm actually looking at other RAM as we speak as I have 3200 in this one and would like something a bit faster for this one.

 

[Nighthawk117]

Been suggested the Pro Z690-A as well for MSI boards, will look at both and definitely going to skip Micro ATX. Would like to put a potential internal capture card in it, so will need the space especially with an EVGA FTW3 3080.

I'm actually looking at other RAM as we speak as I have 3200 in this one and would like something a bit faster for this one.

The Pro Z690-A is a good budget Z690, but the MAG Z690 Tomahawk is a better board, it has better features and stronger VRM's. A good alternative would be the Gigabyte Z690 Gaming-X:
https://www.newegg.com/gigabyte-aorus-z690-gaming-x-ddr4/p/N82E16813145347?Description=Gigabyte Z690 Gaming X&cm_re=Gigabyte_Z690 Gaming X--13-145-347--Product&quicklink=true

That's a fair bit cheaper than the Tomahawk, I think it looks better too. That's better than your Pro Z690-A but not much more expensive. That would be my pick if it was me, it's a good board without spending the earth. Your 12700K and 3080 are worthy of a nice board.

I'm not sure what prices you were looking at with memory but where I live the G Skill stuff is usually a bit more expensive than say Corsair, so you may be able to save a few pennies there. I wouldn't go lower than DDR4 3600Mhz though.

 

[KyaraM]

The Pro Z690-A is a good budget Z690, but the MAG Z690 Tomahawk is a better board, it has better features and stronger VRM's. A good alternative would be the Gigabyte Z690 Gaming-X:
https://www.newegg.com/gigabyte-aorus-z690-gaming-x-ddr4/p/N82E16813145347?Description=Gigabyte Z690 Gaming X&cm_re=Gigabyte_Z690 Gaming X--13-145-347--Product&quicklink=true

That's a fair bit cheaper than the Tomahawk, I think it looks better too. That's better than your Pro Z690-A but not much more expensive. That would be my pick if it was me, it's a good board without spending the earth. Your 12700K and 3080 are worthy of a nice board.

I'm not sure what prices you were looking at with memory but where I live the G Skill stuff is usually a bit more expensive than say Corsair, so you may be able to save a few pennies there. I wouldn't go lower than DDR4 3600Mhz though.

The Pro Z690-A is a nice board. And the VRMs are completely fine, even when OCing the CPU they don't go above 60°C.

Intel Z690 Motherboard VRM, Entry-Level Roundup

We test VRM thermal performance of 9 Intel Z690 motherboards priced between $220 and $300. If you're aiming for best value, these are budget boards to pair...

www.techspot.com

According to the data, the Pro board does just fine. Better than the cheaper Gigabyte boards, actually, which are called disappointing in this test. Including your linked boards.

 

[demidemon]

Been looking at F4-4000C18D-32GTZR, F4-4000C18D-32GTRS for G.Skill RAM and CMW32GX4M2D3600C18 for Corsair. I was told if I didn't go with b die there would be no use in getting new sticks. I only really was going to use the XMP profile for it, I don't even know how to time them myself and really do not want to mess around with that until I understand it.

In the US btw!

 

[Nighthawk117]

The Pro Z690-A is a nice board. And the VRMs are completely fine, even when OCing the CPU they don't go above 60°C.

Intel Z690 Motherboard VRM, Entry-Level Roundup

We test VRM thermal performance of 9 Intel Z690 motherboards priced between $220 and $300. If you're aiming for best value, these are budget boards to pair...

www.techspot.com

According to the data, the Pro board does just fine. Better than the cheaper Gigabyte boards, actually, which are called disappointing in this test. Including your linked boards.

Oh ok that's interesting that the Gigabyte aren't quite as good on the VRM's there. That's only a couple of degrees though compared to the Pro, the Gigabyte X has better IO and stuff like that.

The Tomahawk though still has better IO, is more nicely finished and has better VRM's. For someone who is not overclocking with an i7 the Pro's VRM's look plenty sufficient. I'd still opt for the Tomahawk though with that calibre of system.

 

[KyaraM]

I

Oh ok that's interesting that the Gigabyte aren't quite as good on the VRM's there. That's only a couple of degrees though compared to the Pro, the Gigabyte X has better IO and stuff like that.

The Tomahawk though still has better IO, is more nicely finished and has better VRM's. For someone who is not overclocking with an i7 the Pro's VRM's look plenty sufficient. I'd still opt for the Tomahawk though with that calibre of system.

I did OC this CPU on the Pro... it works fine. And it seems like TC would like to save some money, so I really think a cheaper board would be better here. The Tomahawk is significantly more expensive.

 

[geofelt]

Here is what the different chipsets can do:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LGA_1700

Since your main use is apparently for gaming, look for good single thread performance. The number of threads does not matter much past 8 unless you play multiplayer or run multithreaded batch apps.
The single thread passmark rating of
I5-12600K is 3975
I7-12700 is 3852
I7-12700K is 4049
I9-12900K is 4201
They are all in the same performance level.
The main difference is how many processing threads are available if that is applicable.

Most gamers will not overclock. The turbo mechanism will boost a couple of cores past what an all core overclock will give.
I think to get the best turbo, the Z690 motherboards will be generally more capable.
To get a top turbo, pay attention to cpu cooling. You want to be able to keep the cpu under 70c.

For that, the first requirement is a case with good airflow to get heat out of the case quickly. Two 140mm or 2 120mm front intakes will do the job. Air or aio makes little difference. They are both air coolers. The only difference is where the heat exchange takes place.
The max cooling potential will be the volume of the cooling fins.
A 280 aio will have about the same cooling fin volume as a top twin tower cooler like the NH-D15.
To do better, you are looking at a 360 or 480 aio.

In a gaming situation, not every cpu thread will be maxed out. Cooling requirements will be less than for a fully loaded batch app.

How good do you really need to be?

On a budget you will need to make tradeoffs.

I advocate spending some $25 more for the non-F version of a processor.
It is good insurance if you encounter a graphics problem.

 

[demidemon]

Here is what the different chipsets can do:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LGA_1700

Since your main use is apparently for gaming, look for good single thread performance. The number of threads does not matter much past 8 unless you play multiplayer or run multithreaded batch apps.
The single thread passmark rating of
I5-12600K is 3975
I7-12700 is 3852
I7-12700K is 4049
I9-12900K is 4201
They are all in the same performance level.
The main difference is how many processing threads are available if that is applicable.

Most gamers will not overclock. The turbo mechanism will boost a couple of cores past what an all core overclock will give.
I think to get the best turbo, the Z690 motherboards will be generally more capable.
To get a top turbo, pay attention to cpu cooling. You want to be able to keep the cpu under 70c.

For that, the first requirement is a case with good airflow to get heat out of the case quickly. Two 140mm or 2 120mm front intakes will do the job. Air or aio makes little difference. They are both air coolers. The only difference is where the heat exchange takes place.
The max cooling potential will be the volume of the cooling fins.
A 280 aio will have about the same cooling fin volume as a top twin tower cooler like the NH-D15.
To do better, you are looking at a 360 or 480 aio.

In a gaming situation, not every cpu thread will be maxed out. Cooling requirements will be less than for a fully loaded batch app.

How good do you really need to be?

On a budget you will need to make tradeoffs.

I advocate spending some $25 more for the non-F version of a processor.
It is good insurance if you encounter a graphics problem.

I actually do play a lot of multiplayer games. CoD, Ark, Halo and just picked up Fall Guys, so there is a chance I will pick up or play even more from my library once I get the new PC set up.

As for cooling, definitely going with a 360 aio. I just need to decide if I want to stick with Corsair iCUEH150i Elite Capellix or go with a Fractal Design Lumen to match the case fans I chose. Going with the Corsair 5000D Airflow and Fractal Design Aspect 12 fans for it. Using 120mm fans all around for the case.

What I'm leaning towards, I just need to see if I can cut anything down further. If I could find some decent SSDs that boot quickly, I'd probably take that SN850 off. Will have to see as I tinker with it later tonight.

 

[geofelt]

Do not chase ssd speed.
You will not notice.
These guys could not tell the difference:

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4DKLA7w9eeA

As to a fast boot, consider using sleep to ram instead.
Sleep is a very low power state for the pc and monitor.
It only takes a handful of seconds to sleep/wake.

 

[demidemon]

Do not chase ssd speed.
You will not notice.
These guys could not tell the difference:

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4DKLA7w9eeA

As to a fast boot, consider using sleep to ram instead.
Sleep is a very low power state for the pc and monitor.
It only takes a handful of seconds to sleep/wake.

I don't like using sleep mode, especially in this area, storms can get pretty bad and I'm not always around when they start. I also do not like leaving a PC or anything on over night if I can help it. Monitors are always on but between replacing one of those vs an entire PC, I'd rather replace a monitor. Will look at that link in a few either way. I'm trying to also find a good SSD just in general.

Also, I'd like to note, the only speed I'm looking for on that is mainly for boot. Outside of that, I want to switch from HD to SSD mainly due to them apparently not crashing/corrupting as much.

 

[KyaraM]

Do not chase ssd speed.
You will not notice.
These guys could not tell the difference:

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4DKLA7w9eeA

As to a fast boot, consider using sleep to ram instead.
Sleep is a very low power state for the pc and monitor.
It only takes a handful of seconds to sleep/wake.

Sleep still eats quite a bit of power, so no, don't do that. Seen an experiment just recently it was still around 10W vs 0.1W or lower from just turning off the machine. Nothing short of wasteful, especially in a world where energy and resources get scarcer every day. Plus all the other possible issues, ie the storms mentioned above. Also, as expensive as energy costs are getting now, every watt counts. Always power down as many devices as you can. ALWAYS.

 

[geofelt]

If one is worried about storms, protect yourself with a good(expensive) surge suppressor as well as a good UPS.
A UPS will let you ride through many electrical interruptions, letting you shut down gracefully.

While leaving a 10w device on 24/7,365 might cost $15 there are negatives.
Starting and stopping devices, either electrical or mechanical puts an extra strain on them possibly leading to premature failure.

All, in all, I think a nit.

 

[demidemon]

If one is worried about storms, protect yourself with a good(expensive) surge suppressor as well as a good UPS.
A UPS will let you ride through many electrical interruptions, letting you shut down gracefully.

While leaving a 10w device on 24/7,365 might cost $15 there are negatives.
Starting and stopping devices, either electrical or mechanical puts an extra strain on them possibly leading to premature failure.

All, in all, I think a nit.

I think I have one, but either way, I've never liked sleep mode. I had issues with it in the past where the PC would wake back up afterwards. Never used it sense that day.

 

[KyaraM]

If one is worried about storms, protect yourself with a good(expensive) surge suppressor as well as a good UPS.
A UPS will let you ride through many electrical interruptions, letting you shut down gracefully.

While leaving a 10w device on 24/7,365 might cost $15 there are negatives.
Starting and stopping devices, either electrical or mechanical puts an extra strain on them possibly leading to premature failure.

All, in all, I think a nit.

It would cost me 25.55€ extra per year, tendency going up. I would rather go out for dinner than pay that for something so useless, thank you very much. Or, well, pay my natural gas bill since unfortunately I life in a flat that is heated by that and also uses it to heat my water. I already save as much as I can by lowering temperatures, but I can only lower that so much before it starts triggering my respiratory system issues. 20°C indoors is already hard at the limit, and at night it's set to 19°C. That's already straddling the line. And next winter might get very rough considering all the talk here about reservoirs not being properly filled. I really can't afford bs like this, and neither can many, many others around the world.

And, seriously? Higher failure rates? Man, I must have been incredibly luckly that I never encountered any hardware failures under these horrible conditions I run my machine under...