Archived from groups: microsoft.public.windowsxp.hardware (
More info?)
You are making assumptions without even having sufficient
experience. To appreciate why the numbers from the first UPS
could be 100% normal operation, you should get a 3.5 digit
multimeter and do some voltage testing on your car battery.
What is the voltage when charging? What is the voltage after
car is turned off? What it the voltage after sitting
overnight? What is the voltage when hi beams are turned on?
If you can answer these questions from previous experience,
then your UPS reading make complete sense. But since you do
not have experience and do not have the 3.5 digit meter to
gain that experience, then you are only speculating.
Same is speculation about the UPS 'cleaning' your office
electricity. That's nonsense. The air conditioner may be
connected to a circuit wires sufficient for incandescent lamps
but not wires sufficient for electronic equipment.
Follow the wires from wall receptacles back to breaker box.
Did they connect each wire solidly to screw on side of
receptacle? Or did they connect wires in holes behind that
receptacle? If not using the screws, then you have identified
a wiring problem. The resulting low voltage was tripping that
UPS into battery backup mode.
BTW, when does the computer typically see the most 'dirty'
electricity? When UPS is in battery backup mode. Computer
grade UPSes output electricity so dirty as to harm some small
electric motors. And yet that same 'dirty' electricity is
perfectly good for electronic appliances - that have more
resilient hardware.
If you want to learn from your experiences, then you get a
3.5 digit multimeter that is a tool as important as a
screwdriver; so ubiquitous as to be sold in Walmart, Home
Depot, Radio Shack, and Lowes. Also time to inspect each wall
receptacle between breaker box and office. Again, to learn
WHY these things are occurring.
As for those readings, well, what is does the manufacturer
spec for that UPS state is resolution? IOW 87% and 100% are
same readings for a battery at 96%. Numbers that might change
based upon other external factors such as room temperature and
receptacle voltages. No way around the need for that meter if
you want to answer your questions. No way around the need for
those numbers.
You have no way of guessing (with any integrity) about that
battery unless you take numbers with the multimeter (and
report those numbers here to learn other facts not yet
provided).
d28 wrote:
> No meters to speak of. However, since having these problems with the
> Belkin F6H500. I purchased a Belkin F6B750-AVR. The AVR (Automatic
> Voltage Regulation) feature has exposed some issues within my office.
> I was able to determine that when my air conditioning unit fires up the
> new UPS's AVR feature would kick in. Which indicated that the UPS was
> "cleaning" the current running through the UPS connections. So I now
> know the source of the current issues in my office (and home), the AC.
>
> I now agree with everyone else that the battery on the F6H500 is shot.
> I had stated the battery was holding a 100%. But it dropped again down
> to 87% without anything being plugged into it. So I'm just using it as
> a surge protector now. Thanks to all for their input.