Question Best glue for these washer-like screws ?

[VermilionNeko]

Hi

I'm not sure what the proper name is for these. Perhaps someone can clarify...?
Does anyone have any experience with gluing these washer-like screws back into these holes you would find on the underside of a laptop case/screen? I'm not able to get the LCD screen back into place securely whilst these have come out. So I need a glue recommendation that works best. I did see some poxy resin Gorilla glue on Amazon that would probably work, however, it would probably need to be applied with something small and thin around the rim of these holes. Last thing I want is for the glue to get inside and set and then I'm unable to screw anything in them. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

https://imgur.com/a/aHYQBI3

 

[Ralston18]

In agreement with @stonecarver

Another thing you can do is to install the appropriately threaded screws, but but much longer screws, into the set sockets before gluing sockets/flanges into place.

Doing so will help protect the inside threads and once the glue has cured then remove the longer screws.

No harm in pre-threading it a few times by screwing in and unscrewing the longer screws beforehand. Just to ensure that all goes and fits together smoothly and likewise removes easily.

Also much easier to hold on the the screw etc. as it is being placed into position and set accordingly.

Give it all another try.

 

[VermilionNeko]

In agreement with @stonecarver

Another thing you can do is to install the appropriately threaded screws, but but much longer screws, into the set sockets before gluing sockets/flanges into place.

Doing so will help protect the inside threads and once the glue has cured then remove the longer screws.

No harm in pre-threading it a few times by screwing in and unscrewing the longer screws beforehand. Just to ensure that all goes and fits together smoothly and likewise removes easily.

Also much easier to hold on the the screw etc. as it is being placed into position and set accordingly.

Give it all another try.

In all honesty, I'm quite lost and unsure about how to approach things. And with some of the explanations.😕 I still don't even know what kind of flanged nutserts to get. If I'd need a specific size, if I need to go about learning how to use a drill and drill the holes wider in the existing posts... Plus, 2-3 of the existing posts are cracked with some of it missing.

 

[stonecarver]

This is the type of kit I was talking about. I don't know if this kit has the right size you need so you will need to verify that on your side.

https://www.amazon.com/JROUTH-Threa...ocphy=9031499&hvtargid=pla-2281435179498&th=1

But these need to be epoxied in and sometime you need to do some demo work to assure that when all is said and done the repair is 100% lined up with the hinges that will need to be screwed to the new mounts.

And just an FYI silicone will not hold it the epoxy will be like you added plastic and form a solid structure.


If you don't feel comfortable as if you get it wrong epoxy is permanent see if you can find a shop that might do the work.

 

[Ralston18]

No problem with being "lost". Nor with being unsure for that matter.

Both occur in life - multiple times. Find your compass and base.

Hopefully, there will additional ideas and sugggestions of varying complexities and risks.

Keep in mind that there is no real rush and that there is no harm in thinking and working through it all.

As for drills - find some scrap chunks of plastic or even wood to practice on.

Clamp your work and keep your hands and all loose clothing out of the way. No "hoodie" strings.

I am one of those who believe that is better to try and perhaps fail than to not try at all.

Just my thoughts on matter.

 

[stonecarver]

I am one of those who believe that is better to try and perhaps fail than to not try at all.

👍

 

[VermilionNeko]

This is the type of kit I was talking about. I don't know if this kit has the right size you need so you will need to verify that on your side.

https://www.amazon.com/JROUTH-Threa...ocphy=9031499&hvtargid=pla-2281435179498&th=1

But these need to be epoxied in and sometime you need to do some demo work to assure that when all is said and done the repair is 100% lined up with the hinges that will need to be screwed to the new mounts.

And just an FYI silicone will not hold it the epoxy will be like you added plastic and form a solid structure.


If you don't feel comfortable as if you get it wrong epoxy is permanent see if you can find a shop that might do the work.

Okay. A set of them would certainly help narrow down the right size I'd need. I'm not sure what size I would need. A shame that many of those sets are brass instead of stainless steel, but if I can't find any, it's not a big deal. Thankfully the hinges have holes that line up with the posts.

 

[VermilionNeko]

No problem with being "lost". Nor with being unsure for that matter.

Both occur in life - multiple times. Find your compass and base.

Hopefully, there will additional ideas and sugggestions of varying complexities and risks.

Keep in mind that there is no real rush and that there is no harm in thinking and working through it all.

As for drills - find some scrap chunks of plastic or even wood to practice on.

Clamp your work and keep your hands and all loose clothing out of the way. No "hoodie" strings.

I am one of those who believe that is better to try and perhaps fail than to not try at all.

Just my thoughts on matter.

Thanks. And I completely agree. Definitely want to find the best option to go for and look into other possibilities before jumping in. Hopefully I can avoid the drill root if possible, but we'll see. At some point, I do plan on practising with a welder so I can sort out a Razor keyboard's lights.

 

[VermilionNeko]

So, based on the images I posted, is there any way of being able to tell what size of threaded insert I'd need? Any info that can be found on the inside of the chassis? Or some sort of measuring tool I could get?

 

[BFG-9000]

Most likely you will have to bring your screw to a fastener store, as the bolt checkers in typical hardware stores only go down to the #6-32 UNC, M3 or #4-40 UNC sizes typically found in desktop PCs

A shame that many of those sets are brass instead of stainless steel, but if I can't find any, it's not a big deal.

You don't want stainless unless you are willing to have to use anti-seize. Without it, stainless into stainless will gall so quickly that you won't even be able to screw it all the way down before it seizes up. That's why the original one was brass, which you already managed to bind up by using the wrong thread in it. If you aren't confident you can keep epoxy out of the hole then you aren't going to be able to keep anti-seize in it as it rather infamously gets everywhere

and will definitely keep glue from sticking.

 

[VermilionNeko]

Most likely you will have to bring your screw to a fastener store, as the bolt checkers in typical hardware stores only go down to the #6-32 UNC, M3 or #4-40 UNC sizes typically found in desktop PCs

You don't want stainless unless you are willing to have to use anti-seize. Without it, stainless into stainless will gall so quickly that you won't even be able to screw it all the way down before it seizes up. That's why the original one was brass, which you already managed to bind up by using the wrong thread in it. If you aren't confident you can keep epoxy out of the hole then you aren't going to be able to keep anti-seize in it as it rather infamously gets everywhere

and will definitely keep glue from sticking.

That's a very good point. The original is brass. Didn't know that was the reason for it though.

I'm not sure if my local DIY store (B&Q) have some sort of threaded insert chart. But it's certainly something I'll have to look into. I should be able to take the bottom chassis with me if I need to get any assistance from someone there.

Thanks.

 

[JeffreyP55]

Hi

I'm not sure what the proper name is for these. Perhaps someone can clarify...?
Does anyone have any experience with gluing these washer-like screws back into these holes you would find on the underside of a laptop case/screen? I'm not able to get the LCD screen back into place securely whilst these have come out. So I need a glue recommendation that works best. I did see some poxy resin Gorilla glue on Amazon that would probably work, however, it would probably need to be applied with something small and thin around the rim of these holes. Last thing I want is for the glue to get inside and set and then I'm unable to screw anything in them. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

https://imgur.com/a/aHYQBI3

As mentioned, Gorilla or super glue.
Make sure to prep the surfaces to be glued together. Clean contact surfaces are a must for a secure bonding.
Try apply some kind clamping device if possible.

 

[stuff and nonesense]

Another possiblilty to consider is to use superglue and baking soda.

Google as necessary to read and watch the resulting links.

Likely to be very tricky but may be viable as a last resort.

However, there are others here that may be able to provide more guidance as applicable.

In the past I have used superglue gel, it fills in the gaps. If the screws used to fit in the part are not overly load bearing a drop of locktite will secure without needing over tightening.

 

[VermilionNeko]

Zero luck with this. Went to the DIY store we have here in the UK - B&Q - and they don't have anything for laptops, and certainly not threaded inserts small enough for laptops. 😕 So I don't know where else to go or try. No idea how to find the correct size.

 

[VermilionNeko]

My dad suggested a nearby computer shop to potentially fix it, I emailed them about the situation, and they told me to ignore online advice, bin it, and buy a replacement one.

So much for that

 

[stuff and nonesense]

Zero luck with this. Went to the DIY store we have here in the UK - B&Q - and they don't have anything for laptops, and certainly not threaded inserts small enough for laptops. 😕 So I don't know where else to go or try. No idea how to find the correct size.

Look at RS components… you might need to tell a small untruth to open an account..

An alternative, if you have a friend with a lathe. Threaded inserts aren’t difficult to make.

 

[VermilionNeko]

Look at RS components… you might need to tell a small untruth to open an account..

An alternative, if you have a friend with a lathe. Threaded inserts aren’t difficult to make.

Is that to ask for their advice on what I could do?

No friends, sadly. 😅 And certainly not any who would have a lathe. I’ve no idea how I’d go about making my own threaded inserts. My dad *may* have one though.

 

[VermilionNeko]

I’ve decided I’m going to have ONE more try at sealing those threads back in place. But I’m going to isolate the correct screws first and put them to one side. I’ll clean up the posts as best I can again, and carefully apply to resin around the sides of the threaded inserts, and plug up any gaps, and try to avoid getting it down the centre of them so the screws aren’t prevented from going in all the way. Wish me luck! 🤞🏻

 

[stuff and nonesense]

Is that to ask for their advice on what I could do?

No friends, sadly. 😅 And certainly not any who would have a lathe. I’ve no idea how I’d go about making my own threaded inserts. My dad *may* have one though.

RS tends to be trade only. You can get an account with a small untruth.

Shape and size the outer of the pieces then and tap a of the thread through the middle. Use the screws to identify the thread.

 

[VermilionNeko]

Yeah, I have absolutely ZERO faith/hope in this procedure. There was already one of those threaded rivets still 'securely' in place from the last time I tried. I screwed a screw into it, it screwed in securely and tight, I un-screwed it again, and it took the threaded rivet with it, breaking it free from the post yet again.

Irrespective of what others have said, and no matter how much I might do things properly, or step-by-step, this method of using poxy resin to secure them back in isn't going to work.

 

[JeffreyP55]

Yeah, I have absolutely ZERO faith/hope in this procedure. There was already one of those threaded rivets still 'securely' in place from the last time I tried. I screwed a screw into it, it screwed in securely and tight, I un-screwed it again, and it took the threaded rivet with it, breaking it free from the post yet again.

Irrespective of what others have said, and no matter how much I might do things properly, or step-by-step, this method of using poxy resin to secure them back in isn't going to work.

I bet your surfaces were not cleaned properly for adhesion.
You can's glue crusty old crap with old glue still visible.

 

[VermilionNeko]

I bet your surfaces were not cleaned properly for adhesion.
You can's glue crusty old crap with old glue still visible.

I already showed pics of a before and after. I can do the same again, for what it's worth, but it's unlikely I'll be able to get them 110% perfect.

 

[JeffreyP55]

I already showed pics of a before and after. I can do the same again, for what it's worth, but it's unlikely I'll be able to get them 110% perfect.

Parts should be almost spotless for things to work.

 

[VermilionNeko]

Parts should be almost spotless for things to work.

'Almost'. But not perfectly 100%.

It still doesn't change the fact, that if a screw is being screwed into them, the force and rotation of them, is causing the threaded rivet to rotate with it and then break free. I can't imagine the resin being strong enough to withstand that.

 

[VermilionNeko]

Well, this is before:

https://imgur.com/a/ZxjOsr5

https://imgur.com/a/IlRbTJC

And after:

https://imgur.com/a/q1J9AGc

https://imgur.com/a/qanhPrV

I can't get them any cleaner. I've used cleaning alcohol, sandpaper, a toothbrush, a thin paint brush, and a thin allen key to scrape off the old resin.

 

[JeffreyP55]

Well, this is before:

https://imgur.com/a/ZxjOsr5

https://imgur.com/a/IlRbTJC

And after:

https://imgur.com/a/q1J9AGc

https://imgur.com/a/qanhPrV

I can't get them any cleaner. I've used cleaning alcohol, sandpaper, a toothbrush, a thin paint brush, and a thin allen key to scrape off the old resin.

How about bottom taping the threads so maybe the hardware will be more compliant? Short of a complete replacement, it seems you're running out of options.