Hi there,
New to the community but am recent enthusiast of PC building and understanding how things actually work but have only just entered the sea surrounding the iceberg.
Hardware:
Old DH55tc hp motherboard
i5 680 @ 3.6GHz
16GB ddr3
SanDisk 240GB SSD
R5 430 LP - Shameful I know
400w PSU Cooler Master - RS-400-PSAR-13
Running windows 10 pro
Please let me know if missing anything.
Ok so had this all functioning well especially for age of everything. Decided to upgrade my Gpu to begin with as this is by far the weakest link.
I do this as I do enjoy gaming but more specifically for CAD/CAM, I have a stone carving CNC Router I built from scratch.
Bought myself a GTX 1660 super GP OC 6GB.
Going from a moped to a contach I'm aware, but this is the first upgrade of an entire rebuild. As I am crash coursing all of this new found information
I neglected to realise my PSU doesn't have any form of 8 pin PEG. But by this point I had received my beautiful new GPU and pulled my existing one out and inserted the new. This triggering my learning of 8 Pin PEG's and the power requirements of a modern GPU and the age and incompatibility of my PSU.
I resolved to buy a new appropriate PSU.
Meanwhile, I reinsert my old lacking GPU to continue my day to day functions. Only to have it not want to play the game at all.
When Power button is pressed, fans spin up, for about 15 secs, they ramp up in preparation for something, then anticlimactically the system shuts down,
only to reboot 2 seconds later and continues this endlessly. Even if I hold power button down to turn off, it turns off but when released reboots on its own accord. Monitor doesn't register anything.
I can boot into BIOS by switching CMOS jumper, I have used this to try to bypass peripheral GPU and use on board to try to troubleshoot. But regardless
the same scenario plays out when jumper is returned. Even with no PCI-E GPU installed at all.
I have tried booting from a USB Boot of Windows 10 in order to possibly repair, but as it will only get anything on the monitor with CMOS jumper switched I haven't found a way to boot to USB from there.
Any help would be most appreciated, Please tell me if I can provide anything more to help add puzzle pieces or if I've missed something.
I plan to pay any kindness forward.
Thank you.
New to the community but am recent enthusiast of PC building and understanding how things actually work but have only just entered the sea surrounding the iceberg.
Hardware:
Old DH55tc hp motherboard
i5 680 @ 3.6GHz
16GB ddr3
SanDisk 240GB SSD
R5 430 LP - Shameful I know
400w PSU Cooler Master - RS-400-PSAR-13
Running windows 10 pro
Please let me know if missing anything.
Ok so had this all functioning well especially for age of everything. Decided to upgrade my Gpu to begin with as this is by far the weakest link.
I do this as I do enjoy gaming but more specifically for CAD/CAM, I have a stone carving CNC Router I built from scratch.
Bought myself a GTX 1660 super GP OC 6GB.
Going from a moped to a contach I'm aware, but this is the first upgrade of an entire rebuild. As I am crash coursing all of this new found information
I neglected to realise my PSU doesn't have any form of 8 pin PEG. But by this point I had received my beautiful new GPU and pulled my existing one out and inserted the new. This triggering my learning of 8 Pin PEG's and the power requirements of a modern GPU and the age and incompatibility of my PSU.
I resolved to buy a new appropriate PSU.
Meanwhile, I reinsert my old lacking GPU to continue my day to day functions. Only to have it not want to play the game at all.
When Power button is pressed, fans spin up, for about 15 secs, they ramp up in preparation for something, then anticlimactically the system shuts down,
only to reboot 2 seconds later and continues this endlessly. Even if I hold power button down to turn off, it turns off but when released reboots on its own accord. Monitor doesn't register anything.
I can boot into BIOS by switching CMOS jumper, I have used this to try to bypass peripheral GPU and use on board to try to troubleshoot. But regardless
the same scenario plays out when jumper is returned. Even with no PCI-E GPU installed at all.
I have tried booting from a USB Boot of Windows 10 in order to possibly repair, but as it will only get anything on the monitor with CMOS jumper switched I haven't found a way to boot to USB from there.
Any help would be most appreciated, Please tell me if I can provide anything more to help add puzzle pieces or if I've missed something.
I plan to pay any kindness forward.
Thank you.
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