Build Log: The Green Dragon

Page 4 - Seeking answers? Join the Tom's Hardware community: where nearly two million members share solutions and discuss the latest tech.
Toggle sidebar Toggle sidebar
jappe66

jappe66

Distinguished
Apr 13, 2012
251
0
18,790
Welcome to my very first Build Log! I'm not very good at blurbs or anything like that so I'll just get right on it.

Last week I finally ordered the parts for my build. Today one package arrived but I'm still waiting for a second package from different shop. I should have just ordered all parts from the same website so I could have started to work on the build today already 😛

I don't have much for you yet, but I will show you what is my starting point and some teasers!

So my case is a white BitFenix Shinobi XL. I've heard a lot of people complain about it being plastic and crappy but I just don't see what there is to complain about? The finish on those parts is absolutely amazing and it feels very nice to my hands. The side panels are metal as well as the back and bottom. The front and top have BitFenix SofTouch finish.

The case cost me about 150€ about 6 months ago and I wouldn't change it to anything! Now there's so much room and I started to enjoy watching water cooling build logs so I fell in love with this new hobby.

It turned out to be quite big thing on the money side but I decided, what the heck. "I want it so I'm gonna do it!"

My main colors will be white and green. White coming straight from the case itself mostly and the tubing and liquid will be green. Also green LED fans.

Here's my first plan that I made a couple weeks ago:

pumpplan.jpg


At first I was planning to mount the reservoir outside the case like mentioned in the picture but then I found one that would fit perfectly on the inside. To the same location. And when I start building this there will probably be more changes to the plans. Or so I've heard from people who have done this before 😀

Now here's some teasers for you to enjoy:

vnfmdi.jpg


4vl6c1.jpg


So there you go! I named my project The Turtle because I couldn't come up with anything better. Actually I could go further with this idea and get some turtle figures standing on the case when it's finished or something. See how crazy this watercooling makes me? 😀

You will have to wait until early next week for some build pics but I'm hoping to get the other package by Friday.

Not much to show yet but you gotta start somewhere!
 
Sort by date Sort by votes
What you have researched is as good as what I have researched, I haven't done any sleeving before so I cant speak from experience here.

As for broken cables, doubt it. Metal touching metal conducts, not many ways that can go wrong.
And if you do break the cable, whats to stop you buying some more wire and continuing?
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
If you have a hair dryer with a good hot setting you can use it to do the shrink tubes. Your Dad may also have a hot air paint remover tool. Several power supply makers now have modular sleeved cable sets but you don't wnt to get a set of sleeved cables if what you really need is extensions.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=34_804_1030

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=34_804_1151

If you want the best braided cables then you would get these cable extensions.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=34_804_1096

I have these cable extensions and I have the regular single braided and these are outstanding, there are none better but you can't get green.
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
I think those Silverstone cables are long enough without extensions. Will need to do some measuring to be sure though. The only ones that are currently too short are the 24-pin and 8-pin cables. The pre-sleeved one was 550mm long so I think it's enough to get it behind the motherboard :)
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
Did some measuring now and it appears the current 24-pin cable is 550mm as well :facepalm:

Well another day, another order. Cable extensions for 8-pin and 24-pin cables ordered today.

I started thinking about the GPU waterblock and watched a tutorial on how to install it. So there needs to be thermal pads on the memory chips in addition to thermal paste on the gpu. The pads come with the waterblock so there shouldn't be any issues with installing the block.

Only problem is how do I get the intake and outlet holes on the upside?

http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/EK-FC670-GTX-CSQ-Full-Cover-Waterblock-for-Reference-Design-NVIDIA-GTX-670-Graphics-Cards--Nickel-Acetal-pid-16162.html

^That block has the holes on the downside and I need them to be on top :/
 
Upvote 0 Downvote


I haven't seen a block yet that the inlets are not pass through you choose the routing with the 2 plugs that usually come with the water block.

I suggest if you have not already bought it going with the Heatkiller as you may be able to use TIM on the memory chips instead of the thermal pads.

You won't have any choice but to use the thermal pads on the VRs, but if the fit is close enough you may be able to use TIM on the memory chips, you'd have to investigate that when the water block is in your hands for fit.

With both my 580GTX the fit was so close I was able to use TIM instead of the pads and that allows more headroom overclocking the memory.

http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/cus...n-670-Graphics-Card--GPU-X-670-pid-16503.html

Just a suggestion, as from personal experience the Heatkiller brand are some high quality GPU water blocks with no attention to detail left out.

 
Upvote 0 Downvote
Inlet and outlet would be either left or right, if it specifies it at all. You use any two ports in whatever flow direction you want unless its says not too.

The block I use for my 7970 is a Heatkiller, its pretty good quality. Though admittedly I have nothing to compare too.
TIM on the memory chips I dont know about, only thing if you were going too, dont go with a conductive paste like AS5 (actually dont use a conductive paste outright). Wouldnt want conductive gunk on the PCB.
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
The Heatkiller looks good. It's even 4 pennies cheaper than the EK FC670 😀

You can see the thing I was worried about in the pictures.

ekfc670na.jpg


In the EK waterblock those holes are in the bottom. I did some research and found that you can turn them 180 degrees with the Bridge: http://www.jimms.fi/tuote/EK-FC-BRIDGE-SINGLE

But in the Heatkiller it looks like there is already that Bridge attached:

GTX670_1.jpg


The EK waterblock does say there is a "FC Link" included with the block but isn't that used for SLI?

And another question: are the GPU backplates just for looks or do they affect the performance as well?


One thing to say about the current status of the build: I noticed that there's little green water between the threads and I had to drain the loop and dry the reservoirs threads. I don't know how did it happen since the O-rings looked like they were in place.

I tightened the top and bottom so tight as I could with my hands wearing gloves so if it still leaks, I have no clue where the problem is 🙁

Noticed one thing that manofchalk reminds me of everywhere 😀 the T-line was stupidly short. I know I was reminded of that and it's now longer. Goes all the way next to the radiator.

I'll post some pictures later.
 
Upvote 0 Downvote


Those holes in the EK block go all the way through, what you are seeing on the Heatkiller block is the plugs that block the ports you do not want to use, the EK block comes with a similar set of plugs.

 
Upvote 0 Downvote
My Heatkiller block has ports on both sides vertically, though no horizontal ports. The 670 block might be different, but cant imagine why.The silver things are just plugs.
Though one gripe I had with them was that they use an Allen Key design on them, and its a fairly large Allen Key hole. A small Allen Key was supplied for the screws to mount the cooler, but one for the plugs wasn't supplied. I eventually just wrapped a pair of pliers with a towel and used that to undo it, which despite precautions has left some teeth marks on the plug. Quite annoying that.

Backplates are pretty much entirely for looks. They do help keep the card straighter (weight of the cooler can make the PCB sag) but that's not really an issue. Despite that, I'm considering getting one, don't like the blue PCB of my card 😛.

:lol:
Some things just need to be learnt from experience it seems.
 
Upvote 0 Downvote



As you can see from the image you use one hole as the input and the other hole as the outlet, then the other two holes are plugged. You can use both top and both bottom which ever is more convienent as long as you use one on each side (left or right). You can't use both on the same side as it won't circulate inside the block.
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
Yup I'm aware how it works 😛 my main concern was if that piece comes with the water block or do I need to order it separately. They do sell them separately so that got me wondering. Thanks for all the answers :)

I will order the Heatkiller soon. Do you think the NexXos 360 rad is enough for gpu and CPU? I'm going to over clock the CPU at least to 4.0GHz.

I could fit a 240 rad or a slim 360 to the top of the case if needed :)

This is already getting out of hands... Remember I started this by talking about getting a closed loop cooler? Well the budget went up about 10 times more than it originally was but damn I'm satisfied with this. Still need to do proper cable management though 😛
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
I have a 360 that cools two video cards and two ram blocks without issue, then I have a 240 for the CPU and the motherboard blocks which I do question as being enough. I have the CPU overclocked to 4.7ghz and the temps at idle are mid 40's and under 100% stress are high 70's. I'm not completely happy with that and will be changing that soon, within the next couple months there will be a rebuild and I plan on getting a 480 Monsta from Alphacool that will be for the CPU and motherboard. Since it's not built yet I may change that and make use of the 240mm and have it cool the MB and ram and have the 480 just for the overclocked CPU. I know it's a bit of an overkill but in a good way.
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
CompSLIView.png


Here's my Heatkillers setup in SLI with my 2 580GTX you can see the routing plugs and their purpose is to either close off one side of the distribution block for a single card setup, or port through for an SLI or Crossfire setup.

I will order the Heatkiller soon. Do you think the NexXos 360 rad is enough for gpu and CPU? I'm going to over clock the CPU at least to 4.0GHz.
Click to expand...

It truly depends on what your definition of enough is, the 360 will cool with the 4.0ghz overclock to a certain point above ambient for a CPU and GPU combined loop, the radiator can only do so much and levels out to an constant idle and then raises to a constant load temperature when gaming and such as that.

The temperatures you're experiencing now only running the CPU idle and load will change quite a bit when the GPUs constant heat is added to the loop, combined with the overclocked CPU.

I suggest if you're satisfied with your present cooling of the CPU, if you intend adding the GPU to the loop test first before the change and test again after the addition and report here the temperature differences you encounter.

First you will help someone else in learning what to expect that does the same thing as you and then you can decide if you are satisfied with the results.

You are already in the learn the hard way territory, what matters is what temperatures you expect to end up with, that you, will be satisfied with.

It does not matter what anyone out here in these forums thinks, what matters is what you, end up being satisfied with!

 
Upvote 0 Downvote
Yes I'll need to run some tests and see how the temps will be. I would be happy with less than 40C in idle for CPU. If I recall correctly, with the air cooler the temps were 35-40C idle with 4.0GHz. Under load it was 65-70C.

Another radiator would add something to the looks as well 😀 and I've been thinking about adding more 45 angle fittings to the loop to get the tubing look more simple.

Is one pump enough for a loop having pump-radiator-cpu-radiator-gpu-reservoir? I believe the D5 pump is very powerful so it should handle that kind of loop, right?
 
Upvote 0 Downvote


That's a good thing in custom water cooling :) just need to drain the loop and fill it again every time I add a component. That's why I'm not sure if I will install the gpu block before getting new motherboard and a Haswell processor since it would mean draining/filling again in a short time.

By the way, has the prices of RAM gone up in general? I noticed the same kit of Corsair Vengeance 8GB 1600MHz memory is currently priced at 70,90€ while it was 57,90€ when I bought mine a year ago... Same shop and exactly same kit. I even made sure by going to check my old orders and clicked the link to go to the current product page.

Same kit was about ~70€ in another shop too so it's not only that one shop changing prices...
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
I've read about DDR4 making it's debut soon too. Maybe that will be the reason for next motherboard upgrade 😛

Well I'm fine with 8GB so I'll just wait for the prices to go down and I'll see if I upgrade to 16GB :)
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
RAM prices always drop in anticipation of a new Windows OS, since usually to upgrade all the people running basic machines need more RAM to get good performance from it. However the fact the Windows 8 was less resource intensive than 7, and isn't exactly popular, has meant no one was buying more/new RAM. So the prices stuck for a while, and only now are going back up.
Could also be a bit of price fixing. Memory manufacturers have been operating at a loss for years. Hynix was one of the biggest manufacturers of memory globally, went bankrupt and was put up for auction.

DDR4 I think will either appear around 2014 or 2015 as a mainstream technology (its existed in the server space for a while now).
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
Good to know. I'm good with 8GB at the moment. Since I started planning adding the GPU to the loop I've been thinking about how would I set up the loop if I add a second radiator.

Been looking at putting another 360 radiator there, but mounting it outside, actually on top of the case. There's the plastic mesh where I would need to drill mounting holes. Also if it will be possible, I will mod the top of the case so that the tubing will go through the top straight to the rad and back down through the top.

That way the tubing would be minimal outside of the case. There is this awesome white edition by Alphacool which would fit with the case:

901781.jpg


And yes, it's a monsta! What do you think? I'm not home at the moment and will not be for few days but my plans go ahead in my head all the time 😛

Fans would be 3x BitFenix Spectre's with green LEDs (the ones from inside the case) and for the current rad inside the case I will get the Corsair Air series fans :)
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
The Monsta Rad is just that a monster and you don't get the full scope of the size of this thing until you have it in your hands, this thing is big. I have the very same only black. To give you an idea I have the 240 also and it has the Corsair fans on both sides and the measurement with the fans is 6 inches thick. There is one bigger and it's the Magicool Limited Edition Monsta and that beast is 104mm thick.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14193/ex-rad-141/MagiCool_Limited_Edition_Monsta_420360_Triple_120mm_140mm_Xtreme_Performance_Radiator.html?tl=g30c95s667
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
Wow.. Didn't think there would be any bigger than this monsta 😛
I was surprised with the 60mm rad already how big that was so even though I'm prepared, I'll most likely still be surprised on the size when I see it.

There's no space limitations since it's outside of the case and it's not too much more expensive than another 60mm rad so it is what I'm going for :)
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
You must log in or register to reply here.

TRENDING THREADS

Latest posts

Moderators online

Share this page

COMPANY
RESOURCES
FOLLOW
Top Bottom