Ah, here's where I can really help you ...
Starting with Win8 on PCs from Dell/HP/Lenovo/Acer/etc. (OEM PCs) there are no more "usable" COAs on those PCs. You never needed them anyways and it's really questionable why they were there in the first place. Since at least XP and probably way before that the OS validation on that sort of PC, that's the kind you have, comes through what is called the SLIC table in the UEFI/BIOS. That's where the activation key is, in the programmable ROM. It was put there by the OEM, HP in your case.
So, once the lappy is working again simply download Win10 from MS and reinstall it. I've done exactly that twice in the last year with screwed up HP laptops that originaly shipped with Win10 and it has worked for me just fine.
So, by "working again" I mean ... it boots to BIOS/UEFI and it doesn't get any memory errors when you run memtest86+ on it for, say 3 passes. If there are self tests in the BIOS/UEFI then use them, too. Also, downloading and running Knoppix from DVD/CD can be a useful test option. Knoppix is a variety of Linux that has an EXTREAMLY WIDE variety of devices that it supports.
On a different computer download Win10 from the web page below and burn to DVD or put it on a USB drive. As I recall it's way too big for a CD.
https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10ISO
You likely want the Win10 single language version, unless you specifically need multi-language. You certainly seem to be a native English speaker, so single language English is probably what you want (a bit smaller DL than multi). At this particular time you can choose from either the anniversay edition (ver 1607) or the creators update (ver 1703). Selecting the latter will save you some WinUpdate time down the road, but it's up to you.
Last, you need to select between 32-bit and 64-bit. This is an important one. You MUST select the version that the machine originally shipped with. 99% of machines ship with 64-bit these days, but YMMV.
My suggestion is that if you run into repair/build or OS install/configuration problems that you start a new thread/threads. Let this thread go inactive as its stated purpose has been accomplished.
The real purpose of this thread is to get a "windows key so i could load windows 10 back on when fixed" and not just to identify the COA. You already had that key in your BIOS/UEFI and didn't know it. If you want more arcane details on that kinda stuff look up System Locked Pre-installation in Wikipedia.
It's been my experience that putting an SSD into a machine that you're building REALLY peps it up, particularly the boot process. To save on cash I usually put very good quality, used SSDs in my builds, for example Samsung 840 Pro, Crucial M500/M550/MX100, OCZ Vector 150/180. Those are all MLC. There are many other good, used MLC options. Of the used TLC SSDs the 840 Evo is at the top of my list. I've bought MANY used SSDs and I've never gotten one that was more than "15% used up." SSDs have a lifespan, just as rotating HDDs do. If you are buying used HDDs/SSDs you MUST test them fully. You can do that with such tools as Victoria or HDDScan. Also, for SSDs you must be able to secure erase the SSD (use the method provided by the manufacturer in their software tool for the SSD). Do the secure erase right before you install the OS. If you buy an OEM-version of an SSD (EG a Micron SSD made for Dell or HP) you cannot get/use that software tool and your life gets rather more complicated.
Good luck with fixing the laptop!
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