[SOLVED] Cant turn off pc after black screen

[John1029]

Was running prime95 to test my cpu temps and what not and my pc black screened. It's still on but I cant reset or turn it off. I tried holding the power button. Is there a safe way to disconnect power? Like just unplugging the power strip or flipping my room breaker to kind of act like a poweroutage or can I "safely just turn the psu psu off?

 

[panathas]

Yes, you can turn the PSU switch off, provided that you do have a PSU model that has one.

 

[John1029]

Yes, you can turn the PSU switch off, provided that you do have a PSU model that has one.

ok, shouldv'e just though about it, but was scared.

Anyway, This keep occurring, I thought it was maybe do to the stress test over heating but it just happened again while using discord. It just goes black and never comes back and neither front panel buttons work.

 

[panathas]

Yes, you can turn the PSU switch off, provided that you do have a PSU model that has one.

ok, shouldv'e just though about it, but was scared.

Anyway, This keep occurring, I thought it was maybe do to the stress test over heating but it just happened again while using discord. It just goes black and never comes back and neither front panel buttons work.

OK. Generally the first suspect is always the PSU and then the motherboard. However in order to get more precise advice you have to post your complete system specs.

 

[John1029]

Yes, you can turn the PSU switch off, provided that you do have a PSU model that has one.

ok, shouldv'e just though about it, but was scared.

Anyway, This keep occurring, I thought it was maybe do to the stress test over heating but it just happened again while using discord. It just goes black and never comes back and neither front panel buttons work.

OK. Generally the first suspect is always the PSU and then the motherboard. However in order to get more precise advice you have to post your complete system specs.

CPU: 2600x
Motherboard: rog b450-f
Ram:trident z 8x2 3000
SSD/HDD: 1x 500gb 860 evo 1x 7200rpm wd 2x 7200rpm Seagate
GPU: rog 1080ti oc
PSU: ssr-750fx seasonic focus
Chassis: bitfenix neos
OS: win 10

 

[panathas]

It could be the PSU. Check this => https://www.guru3d.com/news-story/seasonic-issues-warning-focus-plus-psu-has-gpu-compatibility-issues.html. Your GPU model may not be mentioned but its still remains a strong possibility because the symptoms are exactly the same.

You have to test your system with another PSU. Only then you'll know for sure if this issue is PSU related. If it's not then you can start searching for other possible suspects (motherboard, RAM, GPU etc).

Also you can try to clear the CMOS and update the BIOS (which may be too dangerous in an unstable system like yours). Finally monitor the various temps and make sure that nothing is overheating and all the fans working. Good luck.

 

[John1029]

It could be the PSU. Check this => https://www.guru3d.com/news-story/seasonic-issues-warning-focus-plus-psu-has-gpu-compatibility-issues.html. Your GPU model may not be mentioned but its still remains a strong possibility because the symptoms are exactly the same.

You have to test your system with another PSU. Only then you'll know for sure if this issue is PSU related. If it's not then you can start searching for other possible suspects (motherboard, RAM, GPU etc).

Also you can try to clear the CMOS and update the BIOS (which may be too dangerous in an unstable system like yours). Finally monitor the various temps and make sure that nothing is overheating and all the fans working. Good luck.

My only other psu is a 500w thermaltake which could cause other issues if it cant supply enough power. My cpu seems to idle pretty high. Even with windows auto adjusting the clock. It idles around 45+. I'll double check when I get home. What are normal idle temps for ryzen 2600x. To test my psu and GPU could I use the 500 to power just my GPU while my seasonic powers everything,

I'll also look for pcie cables. I'd like to keep this psu as it's supposed to be very good but if I'm going to have issues it's clearly not worth it.

some people were reporting it happening during gpu benchmarks so I ran heaven for ~10 minutes and no crash. So maybe the crashes were random, due to amd drivers that some how got installed(since removed), or I'm just having a hard time replicating. I may try reinstalling amd drivers to see if it happens again, I really don't want to go on thinking everything is good just for it to happen a month from now and have a harder time getting a parts returned or replaced.

 

[panathas]

No you can't use 2 PSUs at the same time and yes the thermaltake PSU may not be capable to handle your system. On the other hand 500 Watts should be enough (if it's good unit) but if a PSU that doesn't have good quality components, gets stressed close to 100% it may cause other stability issues which obviously won't help you find the real suspect since you may not get accurate test results. The Seasonic PSU is indeed a good unit but it may have some manufacturing defects (bad cables perhaps) which may be causing this issue.

I don't think this is caused by software/drivers, because a software crash wouldn't disable the case power switch. You are facing a serious hard lock crash that somehow disables the PSU or the motherboard, forcing you to use the PSU switch to turn off your system. So you are most likely facing a hardware issue and the main suspects are the PSU, motherboard (hardware defect or BIOS bug), GPU and RAM but you should concentrate on the PSU (since that particular model already has compatibility issues with high power GPUs), and find a way to test your system with another better spare PSU than what you already have. In the end if you can't borrow or find one you can take your system to a repair/service shop. Good luck.

EDIT: As for the CPU, yes it seems to have high idle temps and you should look into it because a serious CPU overheating can certainly crash/freeze your PC. However the AMD Ryzen CPUs don't always provide accurate idle temp numbers and it also depends on the software you are using for temp monitoring. The BIOS should always provide the most accurate results. Also the load temp which is more important will give you additional and more accurate info about your CPU cooling capability.

 

[John1029]

No you can't use 2 PSUs at the same time and yes the thermaltake PSU may not be capable to handle your system. On the other hand 500 Watts should be enough (if it's good unit) but if a PSU that doesn't have good quality components, gets stressed close to 100% it may cause other stability issues which obviously won't help you find the real suspect since you may not get accurate test results. The Seasonic PSU is indeed a good unit but it may have some manufacturing defects (bad cables perhaps) which may be causing this issue.

I don't think this is caused by software/drivers, because a software crash wouldn't disable the case power switch. You are facing a serious hard lock crash that somehow disables the PSU or the motherboard, forcing you to use the PSU switch to turn off your system. So you are most likely facing a hardware issue and the main suspects are the PSU, motherboard (hardware defect or BIOS bug), GPU and RAM but you should concentrate on the PSU (since that particular model already has compatibility issues with high power GPUs), and find a way to test your system with another better spare PSU than what you already have. In the end if you can't borrow or find one you can take your system to a repair/service shop. Good luck.

EDIT: As for the CPU, yes it seems to have high idle temps and you should look into it because a serious CPU overheating can certainly crash/freeze your PC. However the AMD Ryzen CPUs don't always provide accurate idle temp numbers and it also depends on the software you are using for temp monitoring. The BIOS should always provide the most accurate results. Also the load temp which is more important will give you additional and more accurate info about your CPU cooling capability.

I know my ram isn't the issue, or am fairly certain as memtest completed fine. Is there "easy" ways to test any of the other components, if i could rule everything else out I would find it more worth the effort to test the psu as the source of the problem, as currently it would more then likely mean I'd have to return/replace this one, buy another and test, or pay a repair shop to test, which would also leave me without a pc for however long and may cost as much as another psu.

I can't remember exactly but I think I remember seeing another post somewhere saying competing software could cause some issues, I'm not sure how similar but. Again I may try later if nothing else is able to replicate the issue.

As for my cpu it's idling between 45-53, using cam at 0-10% load and 2.1-3.x(windows power options adjusting, turned this on to see if it would help temps and it doesn't seem to) only one thread seems to do anything but temps are still insane. I've also used ryzen master, cpuid HWM, hwinfo, and maybe more, all show the same or similar. Load temps usually sit around 76-82 I believe, I'll run another cpu test to double check. I ordered some mx-4, but I don't think it's going to arrive for a while so I may try the arctic alumina I have lying around in place of the stock AMD heatsink lick of paste.

https://gyazo.com/ae07151ccd28932898ce6d7ab419d369 thread usage
https://gyazo.com/a09891a0ac42ef06e8a6c17893f785dc temp gif

The fact load temps don't get to insane is reassuring but I still don't like 50c idle temps as I imagine it'll shorten the life of the cpu

My gpu temps are pretty toasty, about 35-40c idle but I think i've heard 1080ti are just hot cards, might be wrong.

EDIT: was wrong about cpu load temps, furmark cpu burner got it up to 88c after ~6 minutes. This is with stock cooler. I think in games it sits around 75-85 depending on usage/game. But hitting 88c didnt brick my pc so it might not have been a temp issue, at least not with my cpu

 

[panathas]

Are you sure the CPU isn't overclocked? Those CPU temps are certainly higher than normal (both idle and load numbers). Check your CPU cooler and make sure that it makes good contact with the CPU heat-spreader. Re-applying the thermal paste may also help and make sure that you have good airflow inside your system. Down-draft CPU coolers (like the default 2600X one), depend more on good airflow than tower coolers. Also you have to check the motherboard VRM temp readings since a hot CPU can also increase the VRM temps which may cause system instability. One easy way is to try to touch the VRM heatsink but it may not always give you accurate results, because sometimes those heatsinks don't make good contact with the VRM components.

Have you tried to clear the CMOS? Does the motherboard have the latest BIOS version? Sometimes a BIOS bug (that gets fixed in a later BIOS version) may cause inaccurate thermal readings. However you must be extremely careful when updating the BIOS and it's recommended to perform it within the UEFI environment and not within windows.

Unfortunately your troubleshooting options are limited. You have to start from the PSU and then check the other components. It's the easier way because the PSU is the prime suspect and on the other hand testing the motherboard is nearly impossible without spare parts. On top of that, in your case, replacing the PSU with the exact same model (if you try to RMA it), may not help. So you have to find a way to borrow a capable PSU from someone but you also have to find a pattern and manage to replicate this issue consistently, otherwise you may not have enough time to test with another borrowed PSU.

Finally, as I already told you, I don't thing this type of crash is software related but on the other hand that possibility still exists although the chances are pretty low. One way to (almost) certainly freeze your system is to stress test the CPU and GPU at the same time but I wouldn't recommend it with those CPU temps. Good luck.

 

[John1029]

Are you sure the CPU isn't overclocked? Those CPU temps are certainly higher than normal (both idle and load numbers). Check your CPU cooler and make sure that it makes good contact with the CPU heat-spreader. Re-applying the thermal paste may also help and make sure that you have good airflow inside your system. Down-draft CPU coolers (like the default 2600X one), depend more on good airflow than tower coolers. Also you have to check the motherboard VRM temp readings since a hot CPU can also increase the VRM temps which may cause system instability. One easy way is to try to touch the VRM heatsink but it may not always give you accurate results, because sometimes those heatsinks don't make good contact with the VRM components.

Have you tried to clear the CMOS? Does the motherboard have the latest BIOS version? Sometimes a BIOS bug (that gets fixed in a later BIOS version) may cause inaccurate thermal readings. However you must be extremely careful when updating the BIOS and it's recommended to perform it within the UEFI environment and not within windows.

Unfortunately your troubleshooting options are limited. You have to start from the PSU and then check the other components. It's the easier way because the PSU is the prime suspect and on the other hand testing the motherboard is nearly impossible without spare parts. On top of that, in your case, replacing the PSU with the exact same model (if you try to RMA it), may not help. So you have to find a way to borrow a capable PSU from someone but you also have to find a pattern and manage to replicate this issue consistently, otherwise you may not have enough time to test with another borrowed PSU.

Finally, as I already told you, I don't thing this type of crash is software related but on the other hand that possibility still exists although the chances are pretty low. One way to (almost) certainly freeze your system is to stress test the CPU and GPU at the same time but I wouldn't recommend it with those CPU temps. Good luck.

yeah, everything in bios is default except for ram since it was defaulted to 2633 or something. but I'll reset cmos.

There issue hasn't occurred in a few days so maybe it's was just random but like i said I don't want to rely on that theory.
I'm gonna try remounting my cooler since the temps are so horrible.

My side panel is off, idk if that makes it worse or better.

I guess I'm gonna keep running stress tests to see if the issue persists.

Thanks for the help

 

[panathas]

Put the side panel back on your case, as it may help and then re-check the temps. If your case has good airflow inside, by removing the side panel, you are disrupting it. Of course it also depends on the other parts inside your case. Your GPU is probably benefiting from the removed side panel and it will likely have lower temps. Also by removing the side panel you are dropping the overall temp inside your case but you can't be certain about what that does to the CPU cooler and the airflow above it. Sometimes it helps and sometimes it makes things worse. With that said it won't likely have any major effect (just +/- 2-5 C). Good luck.

 

[John1029]

Put the side panel back on your case, as it may help and then re-check the temps. If your case has good airflow inside, by removing the side panel, you are disrupting it. Of course it also depends on the other parts inside your case. Your GPU is probably benefiting from the removed side panel and it will likely have lower temps. Also by removing the side panel you are dropping the overall temp inside your case but you can't be certain about what that does to the CPU cooler and the airflow above it. Sometimes it helps and sometimes it makes things worse. With that said it won't likely have any major effect (just +/- 2-5 C). Good luck.

just had a heart attack reapplying thermal paste, the oem stuff was every where, almost got on the pins and in the socket. as for temps with just a re-app, they are probably the same. maybe slightly lower but they still sit around 40 and jump to 50 while only using chrome. maybe it's my application method. I have a hard time putting the heat sink on as it requires a lot of force and the bracket doesn't stay in by it self, so by the time it's on a lot of the paste might be pushed to the edge. I'll try putting the side panels back on, case doesnt have great air flow so I don't think it'll help much.

might be a dumb question, but how do I disable PBO(not sure i even have it enabled), I've seen a few people mention how clock speed decrease is very minuscule, especially for my tasks, and can aid in temps.

EDIT: think I got it, no automatic boost and a negative offset of .08125(didn't try any higher yet), still "idling" above 40 at 3.6ghz :/ load temps are MUCH better though, maxing at 64c using cpu burner. I'm probably just going to order a case and aio once my refund from newegg goes through.

 

[panathas]

Those temps are looking more normal now. If you want to go lower at idle you have to enable all the power saving mechanisms (in BIOS and Windows) and the clock will drop a lot during idle which will also lower the temps. Keep in mind that as the temps drop below 35-40 C, the thermal readings become less accurate but this shouldn't concern you.

You have managed to drop the temperature and you won't likely face any overheating issues. So if the hard lock happens again, it won't be temperature related. Getting a better CPU cooler will certainly help if you want to overclock in the future. Good job and good luck.

 

[John1029]

Those temps are looking more normal now. If you want to go lower at idle you have to enable all the power saving mechanisms (in BIOS and Windows) and the clock will drop a lot during idle which will also lower the temps. Keep in mind that as the temps drop below 35-40 C, the thermal readings become less accurate but this shouldn't concern you.

You have managed to drop the temperature and you won't likely face any overheating issues. So if the hard lock happens again, it won't be temperature related. Getting a better CPU cooler will certainly help if you want to overclock in the future. Good job and good luck.

What power saving options are available in BIOS, aside from disabling the boost. I already have at least some windows options enabled, like automatically dropping the clock speed , but it doesn't seem to help much. I re-enabled boost but left the negative offset and my max went up a bit, since with boost it runs at ~4 - 4.1 opposed to 3.6, but didn't seem to get as toasty as it did without the offset, which I'm ok with since it should run a little cooler while playing games. I'm going to see how low I can stability get the offset while sticking around 4.x ghz. I may even try pstate OCing.
Does windows effect the clock speed even when you set a locked OC? I may also try locking at 3.9 or 4.0 or something with a low voltage setting and then let windows fiddle with speed rather then boost and windows shifting it around. I'm really not too concerned with load temps, as long as they don't easily get to 90c, as most of my tasks wont get it even close to max, I'm more concerned with idle temps cause I don't want it to be running at 50c all day even when I'm not at my pc. Might not hurt the cpu too much but better safe then sorry.

I plan on getting a new case and cooler no matter what but didn't want to shell out the money right away. but we'll see. maybe boxing day depending on what prices look like.

Thanks again for the help.

EDIT: days later it happened again, nothing changed, no stress tests, just watching youtube and bam. So I see no way of consistently replicating the issue.

 

[John1029]

damn newegg live chat isnt available right now, I was going to talk about my PSU issue and while remounting my cpu for the second time I found what looks to be some damage to the ihs, which could be the cause of my hard locks or at the very least my heating issues. It's a stretch but.

 

[panathas]

I think it's best to leave the CPU at its default frequencies and not overclock without at least getting a better CPU cooler than the default one. I don't know what CPU power saving settings your BIOS might have but one thing is for sure, when you are overclocking those power saving mechanisms and the CPU downclocking go out of the window. You can search your BIOS for various CPU & power settings but you shouldn't overclock your CPU in order to take advantage of them. Windows power saving mechanisms don't have any effect on overclocked CPUs that have a locked frequency. Finally I don't think that a damaged IHS may cause this but you can't be absolutely certain, so I think it's worth looking into this. If you can, post a pic here showing the damage.

Since the crash happened again while just watching youtube, I don't think its the PSU. From what I can tell you should try 2 things.

1)Try to update the motherboard BIOS, if you haven't already done that.
2)Don't overclock your CPU, leave at its default frequencies.
3)Monitor the GPU more closely (voltage, power, temps, fans etc.)

 

[John1029]

I think it's best to leave the CPU at its default frequencies and not overclock without at least getting a better CPU cooler than the default one. I don't know what CPU power saving settings your BIOS might have but one thing is for sure, when you are overclocking those power saving mechanisms and the CPU downclocking go out of the window. You can search your BIOS for various CPU & power settings but you shouldn't overclock your CPU in order to take advantage of them. Windows power saving mechanisms don't have any effect on overclocked CPUs that have a locked frequency. Finally I don't think that a damaged IHS may cause this but you can't be absolutely certain, so I think it's worth looking into this. If you can, post a pic here showing the damage.

Since the crash happened again while just watching youtube, I don't think its the PSU. From what I can tell you should try 2 things.

1)Try to update the motherboard BIOS, if you haven't already done that.
2)Don't overclock your CPU, leave at its default frequencies.
3)Monitor the GPU more closely (voltage, power, temps, fans etc.)

The damaged IHS might not directly cause the hard locks but if the exterior is damaged theres nothing stopped in the internals from being damaged. it's very small damage but depending if it the issue happens again I may try exchanging it. Since it's the only part I know has some issue. And my psu isn't the main suspect anymore. I really hope it's not the gpu.

1) I am updated to the latest version, 1103 https://www.asus.com/ca-en/Motherboards/ROG-STRIX-B450-F-GAMING/HelpDesk_BIOS/
2) I did re-disable boost. Temps were pretty high at idle so I turned it off and remounted the cooler again.
3) What am I looking for? My GPU sits arond 35-40c idle, 0-5% load, 1569mhz, ~700rpm, power consumption is 24% TDP, VDDC is .8, mem clock is 1377. I'll run a stress test in a bit and post those values.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TUgqg3qWTEmFv586mXa3beDz0N6la8GE/view?usp=sharing it's a little hard to see but theres what looks to be a scratch and a small chip in the IHS.

EDIT: I really have no clue. I ran a stress test (heaven benchmark) it ran perfectly fine for a while. staying ~58c stable. I started doing stuff, fiddling with other fans w/e and it happened. Then I booted back up, went right back into heaven and rand for 10-20 minutes again stable and fine. I hit 61 but that was probably due to messing with other fans. My cpu got up to 71c with only 10-20% load. Think my case fans just suck which is part of the reason for some of my heating issues. I think they both max out at 1300rpm and they never hit that. I can barely feel any air flow. but anyway. I still can't tell what the issue is. It could be the cpu over heating, it could be a gpu issue, it may be a PSU issue but if the seasonic issue only occurs under load I guess it probably isn't that. I'd much rather spend $140+ on a psu then how ever much on a new gpu. I'm gonna try newegg and see what they have to say. I may contact Asus to see about my gpu's warranty. I really don't know. I live in a small city so I couldn't even ask random people to let me test with stuff. There's no second hand market near me aside from the random overpriced full build.

Here are some SS's of the gpu info
https://gyazo.com/04be91bce70f4fdcd5c384b76f3017b4
https://gyazo.com/13c2d7937ba02d1e4182a722249edfa9

EDIT2: the before and after crash were slightly different, I didn't have all the same programs running, idk how much that would effect it and if that would point the issue toward a different piece of hardware but I may try again later with chrome and other stuff opened.

EDIT3: Just ran furmark for 20 minutes and no issue, other then my pc turning into an oven due to bad air flow and shit fans.

Here is after ~17 minutes of running with both side panels and the front panel on https://gyazo.com/20c3db3b2d4f54cb153542fd7029a53c
This is right after I removed my side panel https://gyazo.com/60e3c1ca6e5d4dc99c81cccb9f94db83
Does this mean I can be pretty sure it's not my gpu or would I need to run a less intensive test for longer to know for sure. I just really don't want it to be my gpu as I'm not sure it's under warranty and it's the most expensive piece. Like I said I'd much rather get a more expensive PSU, and even pay a ree stock fee then have to buy a new gpu, and I would obviously much rather rma or exchange something then have to buy something(aside from a case which I plan on purchasing soon)

 

[panathas]

The fact that this doesn't always happen during stress testing means that you are not dealing with serious hardware damage and most importantly you cannot easily pinpoint the suspect. At this point it can be anything. Are you sure that it's always a hard lock that happens after each crash? Does the reset button work? Have you tried to push the power button and hold it in that position for 10 seconds or more?

At this point I can't be sure whether those 2 issues are related. If they are related it could be the PSU or the motherboard, if they are not it could be anything. You can try to RMA the PSU and motherboard. The IHS damage also may point to something since you can't see what kind of damage exists underneath and what kind of pressure may have caused this. So you should include the CPU to the RMA list.

How long do you have this build? Was it working fine before? Also you said that the GPU doesn't have a warranty. Why is that? Is it a used graphics card?

Finally try to remove all the PSU power cables and then re-install them using spare PSU cables you didn't use before. Also (if you are can) try to use a different power socket in your house. At this point we are just chasing ghosts but in my mind this is always a power related issue although I can't be 100% certain since for example a damaged CPU PCB can certainly introduce random instability to your PC system. While we are here try to also re-seat the CPU into the socket and before re-installing it inspect it from underneath and check for more damage. In fact I'm beginning to think that the CPU is becoming the number one suspect but again I could be wrong. Good luck.

 

[John1029]

The fact that this doesn't always happen during stress testing means that you are not dealing with serious hardware damage and most importantly you cannot easily pinpoint the suspect. At this point it can be anything. Are you sure that it's always a hard lock that happens after each crash? Does the reset button work? Have you tried to push the power button and hold it in that position for 10 seconds or more?

At this point I can't be sure whether those 2 issues are related. If they are related it could be the PSU or the motherboard, if they are not it could be anything. You can try to RMA the PSU and motherboard. The IHS damage also may point to something since you can't see what kind of damage exists underneath and what kind of pressure may have caused this. So you should include the CPU to the RMA list.

How long do you have this build? Was it working fine before? Also you said that the GPU doesn't have a warranty. Why is that? Is it a used graphics card?

Finally try to remove all the PSU power cables and then re-install them using spare PSU cables you didn't use before. Also (if you are can) try to use a different power socket in your house. At this point we are just chasing ghosts but in my mind this is always a power related issue although I can't be 100% certain since for example a damaged CPU PCB can certainly introduce random instability to your PC system. While we are here try to also re-seat the CPU into the socket and before re-installing it inspect it from underneath and check for more damage. In fact I'm beginning to think that the CPU is becoming the number one suspect but again I could be wrong. Good luck.

As far as I can remember I've tried the power and reset switches after each crash. And they still don't work. The gpu is second hand and pretty much every part minus the drives, case, and gpu are new. I think it worked for a few days then it happened, I panicked a little and made this thread. I got an rma for my cpu, I guess I can do it with my mobo and psu also since I won't be able to use my pc anyway. Hopefully it doesnt take to long to get everything back. I'll try the psu cables first just to be safe and save newegg some money if it fixes things.
The first time I remounted the cooler I removed the cpu and I didn't see any damage on the under side but I wasn't looking for it. Might aswell check when I have to repackage it.

 

[panathas]

OK. Since this graphics card is used/second hand you don't know its true condition and whether it's faulty or not. Also you don't know how hard it's been used by the previous owner and if it has been used for mining.

So it seems that the only way to find the suspect is to RMA all those parts and once you get all your parts back and rebuild your PC you'll able to find what it was going on. If the crash is gone its all good and one of your previous parts was faulty/damaged. But if the hard lock returns then you'll 99% certain that the GPU has stability issues. If you aren't able to return it then you have to try to improve its stability and the only way to do that is to play with the GPU and VRAM clocks (decrease them) and voltages (increase them). Likely it doesn't seem to be a serious issue since it's hard to replicate but if it's indeed the GPU you may be able to fix it by yourself or at least find more stable GPU settings thus making this issue even more rare. Good luck.

 

[John1029]

OK. Since this graphics card is used/second hand you don't know its true condition and whether it's faulty or not. Also you don't know how hard it's been used by the previous owner and if it has been used for mining.

So it seems that the only way to find the suspect is to RMA all those parts and once you get all your parts back and rebuild your PC you'll able to find what it was going on. If the crash is gone its all good and one of your previous parts was faulty/damaged. But if the hard lock returns then you'll 99% certain that the GPU has stability issues. If you aren't able to return it then you have to try to improve its stability and the only way to do that is to play with the GPU and VRAM clocks (decrease them) and voltages (increase them). Likely it doesn't seem to be a serious issue since it's hard to replicate but if it's indeed the GPU you may be able to fix it by yourself or at least find more stable GPU settings thus making this issue even more rare. Good luck.

I can only hope it's not the gpu or that the gpu is still under warranty. Not sure if they'll require original packaging. The gpu worked perfectly before upgrading so if it is the gpu I messed something up while switching parts or it was just bad timing. I was going to just rma the cpu cause I didn't want to unnecessarily rma everything but I might end up sending everything back if I can. If the problems persist it could still be a psu and gpu things, unless it's confirmed to be a load only issue. We shall see I suppose.

 

[Omar abdin]

Hello whats the solution please i think i have the same issue gets black screen and cant turn the pc off from the normal power button and its new i have got this problem 2 times today and its the first day i use it i didnt do a stress test to now one of the two time the igpu usage was about 80% in nearly 75c and i think it happend in 15 - 30 minutes
my pc specifications are :
Apu : Amd ryzen 5 5600g
Motherboard : gigabyte b55m ds3h
PSU : CV650 bronze
Ram : Cruical ballistix 3600 MHZ 8*2
Storage : SAMSUNG 980 M.2 2280 500GB