Cleared Cmos, no display

oolex

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May 3, 2018
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So today I decided to clear and recet my OC for my pc, and I tried doing that. I removed the gpu, moved the jumper, started then shut down the pc, moved it back, put in my gpu restarted and I got no display and my keyboard and mouse didn't light up.... Then I started panicking, tried re-clearing with and without a gpu, tried letting it run for different times, different monitors, and then back to resetting and clearing it. I removed and moved the ram, to no avail and now I'm trying to use OBG on my mobo to also no avail, and then restarting and then moving ram, etc. I use my pc really often, and I was wondering if you guys had any solutions. Thanks

Running a

X4 860k
R7 260x
250gb crucial ssd
2tb firecuda sshd
2+8gb ram ddr3
650watts gold evga psu
Mobo=fm2a58m-vg3+
Cryorig h7 cpu cpu cooler
Corsair 400c, with 3 fans in front
Thanks
 
Solution
I knew it.

There are all kinds of videos on TRYING to fix bent pins. It's not always successful, and often a bent pin breaks the solder point INSIDE the CPU, where you can neither SEE it, nor do anything about it. You can try to get it straight if it's only slightly bent, being extremely careful, but I would not get down on myself if it doesn't work out. Usually, it doesn't. Sometimes though, it does.

Chances are much better in your case, being that the pins are on the CPU, than if they were on the motherboard like in an Intel configuration, so there's that.

boju

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I don't like what you did there, powering up with the cmos jumper switched. That's not how you clear cmos.

When working on the inards of a pc is power disconnected permanently. Clearing cmos is done using the jumper with pc turned off, the cmos battery allows the clear cmos function to work, not by turning the pc on.

Having the jumper in the clear position when the pc was on shouldn't hurt it but knowing you had power cable still connected to the power supply (thats what it seems like) then it's possible something else shorted out.

Any case what you should do now is disconnect power cable. Remove the cmos battery for 5mins. During this double check every cable connection and component fittings. Put cmos battery back the same side it was removed.
 
Power off the unit, switch the PSU off and unplug the PSU cord from either the wall or the power supply.

If you need to remove the graphics card to access the motherboard CMOS battery, then do so now.

Remove the motherboard CMOS battery for five minutes. During that five minutes, press the power button for 30 seconds. After the five minutes is up, reinstall the CMOS battery making sure to insert it with the correct side up just as it came out.

If you previously removed the graphics card, reinstall it now.

Now, plug the power supply cable back in, switch the PSU back on and power up the system. It should display the POST screen and the options to enter CMOS/BIOS setup. Enter the bios setup program and reconfigure the boot settings for either the Windows boot manager or for legacy systems, the drive your OS is installed on if necessary.

Save settings and exit. If the system will POST and boot then you can move forward from there including going back into the bios and configuring any other custom settings you may need to configure such as Memory XMP profile settings, custom fan profile settings or other specific settings you may have previously had configured that were wiped out by resetting the CMOS.

If the system will not POST after resetting the CMOS, then there is a hardware problem of some kind.
 

oolex

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May 3, 2018
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So, I tried doing that, unplugged the psu, took out the CMOS then held the power button. Put the battery back in after 5 minutes, plugged everything back in including the gpu that was out when the CMOS was out. I turned it on, fans spun, but the you fant ried to spin but failed. Then after waiting a while there was still no display, nothing lit up and I unplegged it. What hardware peiblem do you think it might be?
 
For basic troubleshooting on systems that stick or won't POST, but were working fine previously, or after adding new hardware, I recommend doing the following.

First, check everything as indicated here:


If that turns up nothing then move on to the following and in cases where it may be redundant based on the steps at the previous link, I'd just check again anyhow. It's easy to miss something the first time around.

First, double check the population of your memory modules. Practically ALL motherboards from the last five to seven years use the same population rules.

If you have one module, it should be installed in the A2 slot, which is the second slot away from the CPU socket.

If you have two memory modules installed, they should be in the A2 and B2 slots, which are the 2nd and 4th slots away from the CPU socket.

If you have three or more modules installed, and it is only a four slot motherboard, I don't imagine it makes a lot of difference where the 3rd module is installed although I would probably recommend installing it in the B1 slot for the sake of keeping the clearance for your CPU cooler heatsink and fan.

14ik1hv.jpg


Always double check the population rules, especially if you have more than four memory slots, just in case. The population rules can always be found in the manual for your motherboard and YES, it does matter where they are installed. With only one or two modules installed if they are not in the correct slots it can result in anything from not being able to get them to run correctly at their XMP/AMP/DOCP profile settings, to not working at all, or anything in between.

If your motherboard specifies A2 and B2, as most all motherboards do, and you cannot get the memory to work correctly or at all in those slots but are 100% certain that there are no problems with your memory modules, then you have a motherboard issue.

Power off the unit, switch the PSU off and unplug the PSU cord from either the wall or the power supply.

Remove the motherboard CMOS battery for five minutes. During that five minutes, press the power button for 30 seconds. After the five minutes is up, reinstall the CMOS battery making sure to insert it with the correct side up just as it came out.

Now, plug the power supply cable back in, switch the PSU back on and power up the system. It should display the POST screen and the options to enter CMOS/BIOS setup. Enter the bios setup program and reconfigure the boot settings for either the Windows boot manager or for legacy systems, the drive your OS is installed on if necessary.

Save settings and exit. If the system will POST and boot then you can move forward from there including going back into the bios and configuring any other custom settings you may need to configure such as Memory XMP profile settings, custom fan profile settings or other specific settings you may have previously had configured that were wiped out by resetting the CMOS.

If the system will not POST after resetting the CMOS, then there is a hardware problem of some kind.

At that point I would again power off, remove all memory except one module, installed in the A2 slot for most modern motherboards, or whatever slot your motherboard user manual specifies for single module population according to it's stated population rules. This matters. Boards MAY run with memory in various slots, but there ARE specific memory slots that are intended to be used with one, two, three, four or more modules installed and the manual will outline which of them should be used based on how many modules you are using.

If you have integrated graphics either on the motherboard itself, or through the motherboard using the CPU integrated graphics, then I'd connect your monitor cable to one of the motherboard video outputs and completely remove the graphics card from the system.

Now remove the CMOS battery again for another five minutes, then put it back again and once again try to POST. If you still get no love, try again using a different memory module.

If you do NOT have integrated graphics to use while troubleshooting, then you can either move along to other steps or try a different graphics card if you have one, or can borrow one.

If you still fail to get the system to POST then I'd recommend you pull the CPU cooler and remove the CPU to check for bent pins or an improperly installed CPU. For AMD systems the pins are usually on the CPU. For Intel platforms the pins are on the motherboard. You may need magnification of some kind to see whether any of the pins look bent, out of place or just "wrong" compared to the pattern of the rest of the pins. A cheap magnifying glass or high powered reading glasses should suffice if you have old eyes like me.

If the CPU and motherboard both look fine, then clean all the thermal paste off the top of the CPU and bottom of the CPU cooler heatsink using isopropyl alcohol and a lint free microfiber cleaning cloth, coffee filter or other lint free cloth. Apply fresh TIM (Thermal interface material aka thermal paste) according to your preferred method or the CPU cooler instructions and reinstall the CPU and CPU cooler.

Now it would be advisable to unplug all connected drives, reset the CMOS, again, and try again to POST or enter the BIOS. If you still cannot get the sytem to POST then you probably need to remove everything from the case and bench test the system according to the steps found here:


If your system is failing to display signs of power or other random power related issues, it would be advisable to purchase or borrow a DVOM (Digital volt ohm meter) or analog multimeter and do some basic power testing of the PSU to determine if there is a power delivery issue as follows:


If you still haven't found any indication of what the problem is, a few last resort measures would be to make sure the PSU is plugged directly into the wall and is NOT using any kind of UPS, power strip or extension cord.

Verify that the CPU cooler IS connected to the CPU_FAN header, as some systems will not even power up if there is no RPM signal from the CPU fan.

Anything beyond these basics is going to require some further conversation and possibly the replacement of your motherboard or CPU, as if everything listed above has checked out, there isn't much left it could be aside from one of those two things.
 

oolex

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I tried taking out the battery, with both ram, with both separate rams in the a2 slot (its a dual slot ram mobo) neither of them booted.... Just a blank screen, none of my periphrials turned on, just fans at max speeds.. what should I try now..
 
Honestly, if you powered on the system with the CMOS short pins in the short position, while that technically shouldn't cause a problem, anything is possible. Like my list above says, if everything else is as it should be and you still got nothing, then something is damaged most likely.

When you tried connecting the onboard graphics by plugging your display cable into the motherboard video output, did you REMOVE the graphics card from the motherboard?
 

oolex

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May 3, 2018
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Yes of course, anything else you want to ask? The only thing is that the system was working perfectly fine, before the restart.
 
Well, something is different than before you started messing around inside the case, so I'd suggest you RE-check all the basics as outlined on the link I posted earlier. If it worked before, and if you honestly had no problems at all before you reset the CMOS, then you should have no problems now.

Powering on the system with the CMOS reset jumper in the wrong position should not cause ANY issues, at all. Make sure you put it BACK in the correct position though, and then double check everything listed at the following link. If you display cable is connected to the motherboard, pull the damn CPU card out of the motherboard too. Many systems will not boot with a graphics card installed that is not working or connected, even if you have the display connected to the motherboard outputs from the CPU.

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/261145-31-perform-steps-posting-post-boot-video-problems

Honestly, I don't think you even bothered to check any of the items on that list, or even read it, since you didn't comment about any of it, at all. If you can't be bothered to take the steps necessary to find the problem, it's doubtful anybody is going to bother to waste their time trying to help you either. If you HAVE checked and rechecked all those items, saying something to that effect would probably be helpful.

If you did not, then I would suggest checking everything listed at this link and then going back up a few posts and double checking everything I pointed out including making sure the memory is installed in the correct slots and is fully seated.

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/261145-31-perform-steps-posting-post-boot-video-problems


What is the reason you were removing your overclock in the first place? You must have had a reason for doing that, some kind of problem or issue.
 

oolex

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I did check the checklist, and I will resort to it again, but I wanted to remove the overclocks, to see if I can redo them, and maybe try to overclock the memory again. I was not having any problems with the overclocks, just that I wanted to push them slightly higher. Thank you very much for your advice, it has been very helpful..
 

oolex

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May 3, 2018
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I have said this earlier, but all of the fans are spinning, fairly loudly so I would guess they are at max speed, but the keyboard, mouse and wifi don't light up, and the OBG don't give off any signal after resetting the CMOS battery or the actual cmos jumpers.
 

boju

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Was going through your manual just looking around. In the clear cmos chapter there's mention of case open feature.

Kinda comical, try close your case.

Highly doubt its that but seeing your board has this anti theft feature thought id mention it. Im not really sure how it detects a case is open and should get a message about it i think not just a blank screen.

http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-1853891/warning-case-open-detected.html

Edit. Thats assuming case is still open all this time.
 

oolex

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OK, that's a bit strange I'll try, but I normally run it always without the back panel, but I sometimes take of the front panel. So are yu suggesting that tomorrow (I won't be doing anything right now) try to close the panel, then press the power button? Have a good night/morning.

 

boju

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Well if this setting was disabled in the past this setting would've turned back on after cmos reset. It mentions in the manual need to reset that option in the bios. JUST maybe with the case still open it's preventing normal operation.

Again, this is just a wild guess.

How you were trying to reset cmos by turning the power on (you did that multiple times) is concerning still.
 
Most boards have that feature. I've never seen it actually DO anything, even when it's been triggered. Unless your case has a specific sensor for the case panels or it's an OEM system with some kind of anti-tampering sensor, I can't see how that could ever be a factor. I've actually seen several bios indicating panel open, but it has never caused any system I've worked on to not start or post or show a display.

Not really sure why that feature is even still present in modern bios.
 

oolex

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So, I tried turning it on, with the case on, all the fans are spinning, but there is no display, my keyboard doesn't light up, etc, but the fans are running at max....
 
IDK, this sounds EXACTLY like a system with bent pins to me. Or, a system where the CPU got cooked from using too much voltage on the overclock. Either the motherboard or the CPU are the most likely culprits I think. I think there has to be more than you are telling that happened for this to have worked and then suddenly not worked if all you did was reset the CMOS, unless there was ALREADY a problem with one or both of the BIOS ROMs or something else on the motherboard.

I would bench test it like I said before. Using only the CPU, one stick of memory in the A2 slot, no drives attached, basic connections and out of the case on a piece of cardboard on a counter top or table. Just like this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j5fl3XxISI8
 

oolex

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Thing is, I was playing rainbow six siege With my friends, and running discord and I was getting unusually low frames, and my cpu usage was at 100, so that made my try to redo my overclocks, becyase it was only at 60-70 under really intensive load, like aida66. So I turned off my system, and then tried rusetting the CMOS, I already reset it in the middle of October, for fun and it worked fine. Just after trying to reset it it stopped working....
 

boju

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All you can do really is follow the advice to bench the system.

Thoroughly go over every connection. Psu cables, fan cables, ram and gpu are connected correctly and properly.

Be relaxed and patient and keep an open mind towards something you might've missed. Even something as little as missing one pin on the cpu fan header.

As for degrade in fps, it might be possible the cpu was throttling due to overheating. Did you play around with the cooler at all recently?
 

oolex

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May 3, 2018
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No not at all, it was just maxed at 100% usage, and it is a fairly old chip, so I wasn't too surprised, and I have a temp and other things readout, like fan speed etc. While playing games, so no I wasn't throttling just not enough horsepower....
 

oolex

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I'll try to bench it tomorrow, thanks for the tip!
 

oolex

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OK, I took out the cpu, and right on the edge there is a bent pin, and I have heard that it is possible to o bend it back. That was the problem, but if it was bent how could it work normally before?? Anyways I'll try to figure how to bend it back now...