[SOLVED] Cloning 1TB HDD to 1TB Samsung 860 EVO SSD. Some questions on process.

Page 2 - Seeking answers? Join the Tom's Hardware community: where nearly two million members share solutions and discuss the latest tech.

hunter1801a

Honorable
May 8, 2019
58
0
10,530
I've read some threads where instructions are posted on how to clone an HDD, but still have some questions. Since I have a Samsung, I've seen the Samsung software recommended for cloning, so I'll be using their Data Migration Software.

  1. Is it also necessary/recommended to download the separate Samsung "Magician" software? If so, would I do that on the actual SSD after cloning, or before? What's the purpose?
  2. Do I need to initialize the SSD or anything before cloning? Any other "to-do's" to prep the drive before cloning (other than backing up data)?
  3. At what point do I go into the BIOS to change the SATA configuration to AHCI? Before I connect the SSD to clone, or after it's cloned and I attempt to boot from the SSD?
  4. I've seen on other posts that I should use the "Intel Controller" as opposed to the "Marvel Controller". Couldn't find anything in the manual that specified either one, so what does that even mean? I'm thinking all I need to know from this is to plug the SATA cable into the blue ports, not the white ones.
  5. Any specific driver updates I need to install on my mobo before making the switch to an SSD?
https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/GA-EX58-UD5-rev-10/support#support-manual

Mobo: Gigabyte GA-EX58-UD5
Current HDD: 1TB WD Black
New SSD: 1TB Samsung 860 EVO
Current drive has only 727GB used, out of 931GB.
 
Last edited:
Solution
Disk Management screenshot:


How/why would it merge that info? Does that mean there's no way for me to get it to run on it's own, which means I'm not going to be able to clone to the SSD?
During the install, it saw that there was already a boot partition in the system.
It assumed you wanted a dualboot, and acted accordingly.

The way to have prevented that would be to have ONLY the desired drive connected when you did the Win 10 install.


Also, the boot partition being on a different drive would have happened anyway, if there were more than one drive connected. Even without the WIn 7 being present.
Sucks that it does that, but that is why we stress so strongly to have only ONE...
They are both worded kind of similar, leading me to believe I have to enable both as AHCI:

SATA RAID/AHCI Mode
Enables or disables RAID for the SATA controllers or configures the SATA controllers to AHCI mode.

  • Disabled: Disables RAID for the SATA controllers and configures the SATA controllers to PATA mode. (Default)
  • AHCI: Configures the SATA controllers to AHCI mode. Advanced Host Controller Interface (AHCI) is an interface specification that allows the storage driver to enable advanced Serial ATA features such as Native Command Queuing and hot plug.
  • RAID: Enables RAID for the SATA controllers.
Onboard SATA/IDE Ctrl Mode (GIGABYTE SATA2 Chip)
Allows you to decide whether to configure the SA TA controller to AHCI mode.

  • IDE Configures the SATA controller to PATA mode. (Default)
  • AHCI Configures the SATA controller to AHCI mode.
Note: In case you need to set this item to AHCI mode and want to install Windows XP onto the AHCI hard drive, you have to install the SATA controller driver during the OS installation. Refer to Chapter 5, "Configuring SATA Hard Drive(s)," for how to make a driver diskette and install the driver.

Edit: Actually, does "Onboard SATA/IDE Ctrl Mode (GIGABYTE SATA2 Chip)" refer to the non-intel chip? The instructions for this specify it as the JMB322 SATA Controller. The instructions for the SATA RAID/AHCI Mode are specific to the ICH10R SATA Controller.

Edit 2: Answered my own question after reading a bit. I'll be enabling the first option, not the Onboard SATA/IDE Ctrl Mode, which controls the non-Intel SATA ports.
 
Last edited:
Well for one I'll probably have to buy Win10 again. Maybe it's a blessing in disguise. Fresh install might be best since I've had this drive for a while and done a lot of things on it.

If WIn10 was ever installed/activated on that system (Despite it's potential Win7 upgrade origins), there is no need to buy it just because a reinstall is needed. Simply download it from MS using their Media Creation tool to an 8 GB flash drive, and boot from it, install it. It should reactivate without issue.

(the actual installation to an SSD from USB flash drive media takes about 4-5 minutes these days, a few more minutes for driver packages if you already have them saved somewhere, an 30 minutes of updates, etc.. Then, reinstall of your apps, time for which varies, but, goes pretty quickly if you have a fast connection)
 
Last edited:
And just to wrap this up (solved above issues and running fine now):

  1. I'm going to be plugging in my old HDD to transfer files then eventually to reformat and use as storage. Will the drive still be recognized now that I am in AHCI? I assume so, since it only affects booting?
  2. If I want to test the old HDD BY ITSELF, would I go back into BIOS, change from AHCI to IDE, then boot up like normal? Then the reverse when I go back to using my SSD?