Question Constant BSODS

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Gingyfpss

Great
Jul 17, 2021
164
1
85
I had the problem of windows not installing, but i got into the install slow but good.

now I’m having the problem of 2 constant BSODS when running OSU! Or apex legends (just had watchdog BSOD a minute ago)

when i play osu! Or load my pc with a few applications, after 5 to 10 minutes, it BSODS to
“kmode_exception_not_handled usbxhci.sys”

then after that gets done i reset to boot back in to windows, and it will BSOD to.
“driver irql_less_or_not_equal”

i have looked around and seen that uninstalling USB drivers would help but i havnt tried that yet.
For the usbxhci.sys error.

i have tried to do SFC command and every time it says it found corrupted files but couldn’t repair.
To try and fix this i updated to 21H1. Yet still nothing.

tried to see if praghics drivers were conflicting, but when trying to reinstall it says that there are other instillations running when there arent

i have tried to see if anything is happening between MOBO drivers and others and nothing

have tried to run image repairs, nothing.

i honestly don’t see what’s going on, i don’t see how i have corrupted files, and i don’t see how when watching YouTube it runs fine for more than 20 mins without fault, but once i play OSU! For 5 mins it crashes to the USB error. Or why when i just launch apex it crashes to clock_watchdog_timeout
Which deals with CPU. I have a water cooler and it’s going to low 60s. Please help, i just got back into windows after messing with it for 3 weeks. And i got work to do.

ASUS B550-F
32gb 3200hz vengeance LPX 2x (16x16)
1TB M.2 Samsung EVO PLUS
Gtx 1050 ti 4gb
Ryzen 5 5600x
NZXT water cooler
Thank you!
 
Rather than running SFC Scannow, try running the DISM command with RestoreHealth option ( DISM /Online /Cleanup-Image /RestoreHealth) as outlined in that section here:

https://www.windowscentral.com/how-use-dism-command-line-utility-repair-windows-10-image
I will, i took my NZXT x53 radiator out rn. I made the mistake I’m not putting the tubes toward the top of my PC, probably resulting in some water not going TO the radiator due to the gravity.

also i felt like i didn’t apply enough thermal paste or i applied it correctly, i took the spreader i have and spread a decent amount of it across the whole top of the CPU, it was mainly on the cpu cooler it’s self and was very bad and spaced out(could see bronze of the cooler, and silver of the CPU). So that could be the reason where the CPU is over heating once processes are running , and why i am getting BSODS. Cause Ik a CPU over heating leads to that.

found a possible hair hanging off the pins, so i blew it with PC air dust cleaner. no pins are bent or missing off of the chipset. everything looks normal.

Will run DISM as soon as i get it back on and see if what im doing is helping at all. Will post soon. Keep in touch please
 
Rather than running SFC Scannow, try running the DISM command with RestoreHealth option ( DISM /Online /Cleanup-Image /RestoreHealth) as outlined in that section here:

https://www.windowscentral.com/how-use-dism-command-line-utility-repair-windows-10-image
Omg and not to mention, when i let my friend help me build this, he put the dang fans backwards, with logo facing in towards my case, so it was blowing air out, not sucking in. Lordy. That’s fixed now…
 
Actually, it's not fixed now. Technically, the configuration is just as bad if not worse with all fans in intake configuration as they were with all fans as exhaust. In fact, all fans as exhaust might have actually been slightly better since some cool air will make it's way in through cracks and gaps whereas with them all blowing in as intake it builds so much internal pressure that not much of anything can go anywhwhere.

SOME fans NEED to be intake and SOME fans NEED to be exhaust. If the fans are in the front of the case (Or an All in one liquid cooler is there), the bottom of the case or the side panel, then generally those fans NEED to be intake fans bringing air INTO the case.

Fans that are in the top or rear NEED to be exhaust fans, for 99% of cases out there aside from a few niche specialty cases like some specialty small form factor models.

Almost all tower style PC cases should have their case fans configured exactly like this:

3l8hcZM.jpg


Otherwise, what you end up with is this (Heat miser in charge. LOL):


NCHJbZr.jpg
 
Actually, it's not fixed now. Technically, the configuration is just as bad if not worse with all fans in intake configuration as they were with all fans as exhaust. In fact, all fans as exhaust might have actually been slightly better since some cool air will make it's way in through cracks and gaps whereas with them all blowing in as intake it builds so much internal pressure that not much of anything can go anywhwhere.

SOME fans NEED to be intake and SOME fans NEED to be exhaust. If the fans are in the front of the case (Or an All in one liquid cooler is there), the bottom of the case or the side panel, then generally those fans NEED to be intake fans bringing air INTO the case.

Fans that are in the top or rear NEED to be exhaust fans, for 99% of cases out there aside from a few niche specialty cases like some specialty small form factor models.

Almost all tower style PC cases should have their case fans configured exactly like this:

3l8hcZM.jpg


Otherwise, what you end up with is this (Heat miser in charge. LOL):


NCHJbZr.jpg
Interesting take i must say, i have made a intake change (fans on front with all in one) and changes to make these such exhaust fans, pc should be circulating air efficiently now following the diagram.

but although i did the much needed changes to my CPU/CPU cooler, i still come up with a “IQRL_less_or_Not_equal”
With a fail of: Ci.DLL.
i understand the RAM being a possible issue, and i do have 2 of my old sticks (same brand Corsair vengeance LPX 2400hz 16gb ((8x2)) That i could use to test, but have done so before a few weeks ago when this problem arised.
And memtest86 said it passed with no errors (4passes each stick) as stated in the latter.

only thing i can think of is the Ci.dll file is corrupt, and from what i have seen i may have a invidia driver with and AMD driver causing this issue. but, i don’t remember even downloading and installing the AMD drivers. Does armory crate come with AMD drivers that automatically install them, and i just didn’t know this and installed invidia?
 
Interesting take i must say, i have made a intake change (fans on front with all in one) and changes to make these such exhaust fans, pc should be circulating air efficiently now following the diagram.

but although i did the much needed changes to my CPU/CPU cooler, i still come up with a “IQRL_less_or_Not_equal”
With a fail of: Ci.DLL.
i understand the RAM being a possible issue, and i do have 2 of my old sticks (same brand Corsair vengeance LPX 2400hz 16gb ((8x2)) That i could use to test, but have done so before a few weeks ago when this problem arised.
And memtest86 said it passed with no errors (4passes each stick) as stated in the latter.

only thing i can think of is the Ci.dll file is corrupt, and from what i have seen i may have a invidia driver with and AMD driver causing this issue. but, i don’t remember even downloading and installing the AMD drivers. Does armory crate come with AMD drivers that automatically install them, and i just didn’t know this and installed invidia?
And should my next course of action to be reinstalling windows AGAIN to see if it fixes corrupted or missing files? I’m scared to do that cause when i do this, at least in the past (yesterday) it would freeze, hang, and crash my computer at the settings just before i get into the desktop to start installing. Settings meaning region&language, keyboard language set up, internet, ETC. it just black screens and freezes with every time something shows up on the screen. Or i move my mouse.
 
Actually, it's not fixed now. Technically, the configuration is just as bad if not worse with all fans in intake configuration as they were with all fans as exhaust. In fact, all fans as exhaust might have actually been slightly better since some cool air will make it's way in through cracks and gaps whereas with them all blowing in as intake it builds so much internal pressure that not much of anything can go anywhwhere.

SOME fans NEED to be intake and SOME fans NEED to be exhaust. If the fans are in the front of the case (Or an All in one liquid cooler is there), the bottom of the case or the side panel, then generally those fans NEED to be intake fans bringing air INTO the case.

Fans that are in the top or rear NEED to be exhaust fans, for 99% of cases out there aside from a few niche specialty cases like some specialty small form factor models.

Almost all tower style PC cases should have their case fans configured exactly like this:

3l8hcZM.jpg


Otherwise, what you end up with is this (Heat miser in charge. LOL):


NCHJbZr.jpg
Also when i do the SFC scan it Dosnt let me repair anything
 
Actually, it's not fixed now. Technically, the configuration is just as bad if not worse with all fans in intake configuration as they were with all fans as exhaust. In fact, all fans as exhaust might have actually been slightly better since some cool air will make it's way in through cracks and gaps whereas with them all blowing in as intake it builds so much internal pressure that not much of anything can go anywhwhere.

SOME fans NEED to be intake and SOME fans NEED to be exhaust. If the fans are in the front of the case (Or an All in one liquid cooler is there), the bottom of the case or the side panel, then generally those fans NEED to be intake fans bringing air INTO the case.

Fans that are in the top or rear NEED to be exhaust fans, for 99% of cases out there aside from a few niche specialty cases like some specialty small form factor models.

Almost all tower style PC cases should have their case fans configured exactly like this:

3l8hcZM.jpg


Otherwise, what you end up with is this (Heat miser in charge. LOL):


NCHJbZr.jpg
I’m going to do a few things today.
I’m going to uninstall and reinstall my keyboard, mouse drivers
Download my m.2s firmware and the magic app to see what could be going on there.
Downloading and launching TDSkiller to see if there are any viruses hiding in my SSD somehow?
Reverting to state of windows where nothing was installed, not downloading armory crate, and downloading all proper drives again, making sure i don’t have AMD and INVIDIA installed.
Downloading ryzen master to see if I’m OCing and reverting that if it is.
I’ll let you know what goes on after these possible fixes!
 
Actually, it's not fixed now. Technically, the configuration is just as bad if not worse with all fans in intake configuration as they were with all fans as exhaust. In fact, all fans as exhaust might have actually been slightly better since some cool air will make it's way in through cracks and gaps whereas with them all blowing in as intake it builds so much internal pressure that not much of anything can go anywhwhere.

SOME fans NEED to be intake and SOME fans NEED to be exhaust. If the fans are in the front of the case (Or an All in one liquid cooler is there), the bottom of the case or the side panel, then generally those fans NEED to be intake fans bringing air INTO the case.

Fans that are in the top or rear NEED to be exhaust fans, for 99% of cases out there aside from a few niche specialty cases like some specialty small form factor models.

Almost all tower style PC cases should have their case fans configured exactly like this:

3l8hcZM.jpg


Otherwise, what you end up with is this (Heat miser in charge. LOL):


NCHJbZr.jpg
I can’t run DISM, keeps giving me error 50 log. this is incredibly annoying. Download windows creation tool so many times only for it to mess up each dang time.
 
I can’t run DISM, keeps giving me error 50 log. this is incredibly annoying. Download windows creation tool so many times only for it to mess up each dang time.
Now i can’t even boot into log in. Just getting bad_system_config. Changed NOTHING. I’m trying to find a bootable TDSSKiller but can’t. So freaking frustrating
 
If there are any steps listed here that you have not already done, it would be advisable to do so if for no other reason than to be able to say you've already done it and eliminate that possibility.



First,

Make sure your system has the MOST recent BIOS version installed. If it does not, then update. This solves a high number of issues even in cases where the release that is newer than yours makes no mention of improving graphics card or other hardware compatibility. They do not list every change they have made when they post a new BIOS release. In cases where you DO already have the latest BIOS version, simply resetting the BIOS as follows has a fairly high percentage chance of effecting a positive change in some cases so it is ALWAYS worth TRYING, at the very least.


BIOS Hard Reset procedure

Power off the unit, switch the PSU off and unplug the PSU cord from either the wall or the power supply.

Remove the motherboard CMOS battery for about three to five minutes. In some cases it may be necessary to remove the graphics card to access the CMOS battery.

During that five minutes while the CMOS battery is out of the motherboard, press the power button on the case, continuously, for 15-30 seconds, in order to deplete any residual charge that might be present in the CMOS circuit. After the five minutes is up, reinstall the CMOS battery making sure to insert it with the correct side up just as it came out.

If you had to remove the graphics card you can now reinstall it, but remember to reconnect your power cables if there were any attached to it as well as your display cable.

Now, plug the power supply cable back in, switch the PSU back on and power up the system. It should display the POST screen and the options to enter CMOS/BIOS setup. Enter the bios setup program and reconfigure the boot settings for either the Windows boot manager or for legacy systems, the drive your OS is installed on if necessary.

Save settings and exit. If the system will POST and boot then you can move forward from there including going back into the bios and configuring any other custom settings you may need to configure such as Memory XMP, A-XMP or D.O.C.P profile settings, custom fan profile settings or other specific settings you may have previously had configured that were wiped out by resetting the CMOS.

In some cases it may be necessary when you go into the BIOS after a reset, to load the Optimal default or Default values and then save settings, to actually get the hardware tables to reset in the boot manager.

It is probably also worth mentioning that for anything that might require an attempt to DO a hard reset in the first place, IF the problem is related to a lack of video signal, it is a GOOD IDEA to try a different type of display as many systems will not work properly for some reason with displayport configurations. It is worth trying HDMI if you are having no display or lack of visual ability to enter the BIOS, or no signal messages.

Trying a different monitor as well, if possible, is also a good idea if there is a lack of display. It happens.


Second,

Go to the product page for your motherboard or exact laptop model on the device manufacturer's website. Download and install the latest driver versions for the chipset, storage controllers, audio and network adapters. Do not skip installing a newer driver just because you think it is not relevant to the problem you are having. The drivers for one device can often affect ALL other devices and a questionable driver release can cause instability in the OS itself. They don't release new drivers just for fun. If there is a new driver release for a component, there is a good reason for it. The same goes for BIOS updates. When it comes to the chipset drivers, if your motherboard manufacturer lists a chipset driver that is newer than what the chipset developer (Intel or AMD, for our purposes) lists, then use that one. If Intel (Or AMD) shows a chipset driver version that is newer than what is available from the motherboard product page, then use that one. Always use the newest chipset driver that you can get and always use ONLY the chipset drivers available from either the motherboard manufacturer, AMD or Intel.


IF you have other hardware installed or attached to the system that are not a part of the systems covered by the motherboard drivers, then go to the support page for THAT component and check to see if there are newer drivers available for that as well. If there are, install them.


Third,

Make sure your memory is running at the correct advertised speed in the BIOS. This may require that you set the memory to run at the XMP profile settings. Also, make sure you have the memory installed in the correct slots and that they are running in dual channel which you can check by installing CPU-Z and checking the Memory and SPD tabs. For all modern motherboards that are dual channel memory architectures, from the last ten years at least, if you have two sticks installed they should be in the A2 (Called DDR4_1 on some boards) or B2 (Called DDR4_2 on some boards) which are ALWAYS the SECOND and FOURTH slots over from the CPU socket, counting TOWARDS the edge of the motherboard EXCEPT on boards that only have two memory slots total. In that case, if you have two modules it's not rocket science, but if you have only one, then install it in the A1 or DDR4_1 slot.



Fourth (And often tied for most important along with an up-to-date motherboard BIOS),

A clean install of the graphics card drivers. Regardless of whether you "already installed the newest drivers" for your graphics card or not, it is OFTEN a good idea to do a CLEAN install of the graphics card drivers. Just installing over the old drivers OR trying to use what Nvidia and AMD consider a clean install is not good enough and does not usually give the same result as using the Display Driver Uninstaller utility. This has a very high success rate and is always worth a shot.


If you have had both Nvidia and AMD cards installed at any point on that operating system then you will want to run the DDU twice. Once for the old card drivers (ie, Nvidia or AMD) and again for the currently installed graphics card drivers (ie, AMD or Nvidia). So if you had an Nvidia card at some point in the past, run it first for Nvidia and then after that is complete, run it again for AMD if you currently have an AMD card installed.



And lAnd last, but not least, if you have never done a CLEAN install of Windows, or have upgraded from an older version to Windows 10, or have been through several spring or fall major Windows updates (OR if you have installed ANY, EVEN REMOTELY QUESTIONABLE SOFTWARE, ESPECIALLY ANYTHING THAT'S BEEN PIRATED), it might be a very good idea to consider doing a clean install of Windows (AND THEN NOT PUT THAT QUESTIONABLE OR PIRATED SOFTWARE BACK ON) if none of these other solutions has helped. IF you are using a Windows installation from a previous system and you didn't do a clean install of Windows after building the new system, then it's 99.99% likely that you NEED to do a CLEAN install before trying any other solutions.


How to do a CLEAN installation of Windows 10, the RIGHT way
 
If there are any steps listed here that you have not already done, it would be advisable to do so if for no other reason than to be able to say you've already done it and eliminate that possibility.



First,

Make sure your system has the MOST recent BIOS version installed. If it does not, then update. This solves a high number of issues even in cases where the release that is newer than yours makes no mention of improving graphics card or other hardware compatibility. They do not list every change they have made when they post a new BIOS release. In cases where you DO already have the latest BIOS version, simply resetting the BIOS as follows has a fairly high percentage chance of effecting a positive change in some cases so it is ALWAYS worth TRYING, at the very least.


BIOS Hard Reset procedure

Power off the unit, switch the PSU off and unplug the PSU cord from either the wall or the power supply.

Remove the motherboard CMOS battery for about three to five minutes. In some cases it may be necessary to remove the graphics card to access the CMOS battery.

During that five minutes while the CMOS battery is out of the motherboard, press the power button on the case, continuously, for 15-30 seconds, in order to deplete any residual charge that might be present in the CMOS circuit. After the five minutes is up, reinstall the CMOS battery making sure to insert it with the correct side up just as it came out.

If you had to remove the graphics card you can now reinstall it, but remember to reconnect your power cables if there were any attached to it as well as your display cable.

Now, plug the power supply cable back in, switch the PSU back on and power up the system. It should display the POST screen and the options to enter CMOS/BIOS setup. Enter the bios setup program and reconfigure the boot settings for either the Windows boot manager or for legacy systems, the drive your OS is installed on if necessary.

Save settings and exit. If the system will POST and boot then you can move forward from there including going back into the bios and configuring any other custom settings you may need to configure such as Memory XMP, A-XMP or D.O.C.P profile settings, custom fan profile settings or other specific settings you may have previously had configured that were wiped out by resetting the CMOS.

In some cases it may be necessary when you go into the BIOS after a reset, to load the Optimal default or Default values and then save settings, to actually get the hardware tables to reset in the boot manager.

It is probably also worth mentioning that for anything that might require an attempt to DO a hard reset in the first place, IF the problem is related to a lack of video signal, it is a GOOD IDEA to try a different type of display as many systems will not work properly for some reason with displayport configurations. It is worth trying HDMI if you are having no display or lack of visual ability to enter the BIOS, or no signal messages.

Trying a different monitor as well, if possible, is also a good idea if there is a lack of display. It happens.


Second,

Go to the product page for your motherboard or exact laptop model on the device manufacturer's website. Download and install the latest driver versions for the chipset, storage controllers, audio and network adapters. Do not skip installing a newer driver just because you think it is not relevant to the problem you are having. The drivers for one device can often affect ALL other devices and a questionable driver release can cause instability in the OS itself. They don't release new drivers just for fun. If there is a new driver release for a component, there is a good reason for it. The same goes for BIOS updates. When it comes to the chipset drivers, if your motherboard manufacturer lists a chipset driver that is newer than what the chipset developer (Intel or AMD, for our purposes) lists, then use that one. If Intel (Or AMD) shows a chipset driver version that is newer than what is available from the motherboard product page, then use that one. Always use the newest chipset driver that you can get and always use ONLY the chipset drivers available from either the motherboard manufacturer, AMD or Intel.


IF you have other hardware installed or attached to the system that are not a part of the systems covered by the motherboard drivers, then go to the support page for THAT component and check to see if there are newer drivers available for that as well. If there are, install them.


Third,

Make sure your memory is running at the correct advertised speed in the BIOS. This may require that you set the memory to run at the XMP profile settings. Also, make sure you have the memory installed in the correct slots and that they are running in dual channel which you can check by installing CPU-Z and checking the Memory and SPD tabs. For all modern motherboards that are dual channel memory architectures, from the last ten years at least, if you have two sticks installed they should be in the A2 (Called DDR4_1 on some boards) or B2 (Called DDR4_2 on some boards) which are ALWAYS the SECOND and FOURTH slots over from the CPU socket, counting TOWARDS the edge of the motherboard EXCEPT on boards that only have two memory slots total. In that case, if you have two modules it's not rocket science, but if you have only one, then install it in the A1 or DDR4_1 slot.



Fourth (And often tied for most important along with an up-to-date motherboard BIOS),

A clean install of the graphics card drivers. Regardless of whether you "already installed the newest drivers" for your graphics card or not, it is OFTEN a good idea to do a CLEAN install of the graphics card drivers. Just installing over the old drivers OR trying to use what Nvidia and AMD consider a clean install is not good enough and does not usually give the same result as using the Display Driver Uninstaller utility. This has a very high success rate and is always worth a shot.


If you have had both Nvidia and AMD cards installed at any point on that operating system then you will want to run the DDU twice. Once for the old card drivers (ie, Nvidia or AMD) and again for the currently installed graphics card drivers (ie, AMD or Nvidia). So if you had an Nvidia card at some point in the past, run it first for Nvidia and then after that is complete, run it again for AMD if you currently have an AMD card installed.


Graphics card driver CLEAN install guide using the Wagnard tools DDU



And lAnd last, but not least, if you have never done a CLEAN install of Windows, or have upgraded from an older version to Windows 10, or have been through several spring or fall major Windows updates (OR if you have installed ANY, EVEN REMOTELY QUESTIONABLE SOFTWARE, ESPECIALLY ANYTHING THAT'S BEEN PIRATED), it might be a very good idea to consider doing a clean install of Windows (AND THEN NOT PUT THAT QUESTIONABLE OR PIRATED SOFTWARE BACK ON) if none of these other solutions has helped. IF you are using a Windows installation from a previous system and you didn't do a clean install of Windows after building the new system, then it's 99.99% likely that you NEED to do a CLEAN install before trying any other solutions.


How to do a CLEAN installation of Windows 10, the RIGHT way
I’m going to do a clean install again, cause I’ve done all of the following you have posted. Gonna follow each direction to the T, i don’t remember if i set my BIOS boot option to UEFI instead of Legacy, but i will make sure this time. i just don’t see how i can be having this many bsods, and not even able to boot into my windows after clean installation.
 
If there are any steps listed here that you have not already done, it would be advisable to do so if for no other reason than to be able to say you've already done it and eliminate that possibility.



First,

Make sure your system has the MOST recent BIOS version installed. If it does not, then update. This solves a high number of issues even in cases where the release that is newer than yours makes no mention of improving graphics card or other hardware compatibility. They do not list every change they have made when they post a new BIOS release. In cases where you DO already have the latest BIOS version, simply resetting the BIOS as follows has a fairly high percentage chance of effecting a positive change in some cases so it is ALWAYS worth TRYING, at the very least.


BIOS Hard Reset procedure

Power off the unit, switch the PSU off and unplug the PSU cord from either the wall or the power supply.

Remove the motherboard CMOS battery for about three to five minutes. In some cases it may be necessary to remove the graphics card to access the CMOS battery.

During that five minutes while the CMOS battery is out of the motherboard, press the power button on the case, continuously, for 15-30 seconds, in order to deplete any residual charge that might be present in the CMOS circuit. After the five minutes is up, reinstall the CMOS battery making sure to insert it with the correct side up just as it came out.

If you had to remove the graphics card you can now reinstall it, but remember to reconnect your power cables if there were any attached to it as well as your display cable.

Now, plug the power supply cable back in, switch the PSU back on and power up the system. It should display the POST screen and the options to enter CMOS/BIOS setup. Enter the bios setup program and reconfigure the boot settings for either the Windows boot manager or for legacy systems, the drive your OS is installed on if necessary.

Save settings and exit. If the system will POST and boot then you can move forward from there including going back into the bios and configuring any other custom settings you may need to configure such as Memory XMP, A-XMP or D.O.C.P profile settings, custom fan profile settings or other specific settings you may have previously had configured that were wiped out by resetting the CMOS.

In some cases it may be necessary when you go into the BIOS after a reset, to load the Optimal default or Default values and then save settings, to actually get the hardware tables to reset in the boot manager.

It is probably also worth mentioning that for anything that might require an attempt to DO a hard reset in the first place, IF the problem is related to a lack of video signal, it is a GOOD IDEA to try a different type of display as many systems will not work properly for some reason with displayport configurations. It is worth trying HDMI if you are having no display or lack of visual ability to enter the BIOS, or no signal messages.

Trying a different monitor as well, if possible, is also a good idea if there is a lack of display. It happens.


Second,

Go to the product page for your motherboard or exact laptop model on the device manufacturer's website. Download and install the latest driver versions for the chipset, storage controllers, audio and network adapters. Do not skip installing a newer driver just because you think it is not relevant to the problem you are having. The drivers for one device can often affect ALL other devices and a questionable driver release can cause instability in the OS itself. They don't release new drivers just for fun. If there is a new driver release for a component, there is a good reason for it. The same goes for BIOS updates. When it comes to the chipset drivers, if your motherboard manufacturer lists a chipset driver that is newer than what the chipset developer (Intel or AMD, for our purposes) lists, then use that one. If Intel (Or AMD) shows a chipset driver version that is newer than what is available from the motherboard product page, then use that one. Always use the newest chipset driver that you can get and always use ONLY the chipset drivers available from either the motherboard manufacturer, AMD or Intel.


IF you have other hardware installed or attached to the system that are not a part of the systems covered by the motherboard drivers, then go to the support page for THAT component and check to see if there are newer drivers available for that as well. If there are, install them.


Third,

Make sure your memory is running at the correct advertised speed in the BIOS. This may require that you set the memory to run at the XMP profile settings. Also, make sure you have the memory installed in the correct slots and that they are running in dual channel which you can check by installing CPU-Z and checking the Memory and SPD tabs. For all modern motherboards that are dual channel memory architectures, from the last ten years at least, if you have two sticks installed they should be in the A2 (Called DDR4_1 on some boards) or B2 (Called DDR4_2 on some boards) which are ALWAYS the SECOND and FOURTH slots over from the CPU socket, counting TOWARDS the edge of the motherboard EXCEPT on boards that only have two memory slots total. In that case, if you have two modules it's not rocket science, but if you have only one, then install it in the A1 or DDR4_1 slot.



Fourth (And often tied for most important along with an up-to-date motherboard BIOS),

A clean install of the graphics card drivers. Regardless of whether you "already installed the newest drivers" for your graphics card or not, it is OFTEN a good idea to do a CLEAN install of the graphics card drivers. Just installing over the old drivers OR trying to use what Nvidia and AMD consider a clean install is not good enough and does not usually give the same result as using the Display Driver Uninstaller utility. This has a very high success rate and is always worth a shot.


If you have had both Nvidia and AMD cards installed at any point on that operating system then you will want to run the DDU twice. Once for the old card drivers (ie, Nvidia or AMD) and again for the currently installed graphics card drivers (ie, AMD or Nvidia). So if you had an Nvidia card at some point in the past, run it first for Nvidia and then after that is complete, run it again for AMD if you currently have an AMD card installed.


Graphics card driver CLEAN install guide using the Wagnard tools DDU



And lAnd last, but not least, if you have never done a CLEAN install of Windows, or have upgraded from an older version to Windows 10, or have been through several spring or fall major Windows updates (OR if you have installed ANY, EVEN REMOTELY QUESTIONABLE SOFTWARE, ESPECIALLY ANYTHING THAT'S BEEN PIRATED), it might be a very good idea to consider doing a clean install of Windows (AND THEN NOT PUT THAT QUESTIONABLE OR PIRATED SOFTWARE BACK ON) if none of these other solutions has helped. IF you are using a Windows installation from a previous system and you didn't do a clean install of Windows after building the new system, then it's 99.99% likely that you NEED to do a CLEAN install before trying any other solutions.


How to do a CLEAN installation of Windows 10, the RIGHT way
Lol this is so stupid, second reboot after “getting ready” gives me a kmode exception not handled Ci.dll. There HAS to be loaded drivers on one of my components. Imma keep trying to install this and find a driver cleaner to clean all my drives and reinstall IF i can even get in
 
Lol this is so stupid, second reboot after “getting ready” gives me a kmode exception not handled Ci.dll. There HAS to be loaded drivers on one of my components. Imma keep trying to install this and find a driver cleaner to clean all my drives and reinstall IF i can even get in
Now it’s just doing the same thing i did previously installing. It’s on “just a moment” and freezes, black screens, then goes back to “just a moment” and does it over and over again. how can windows be this bad, I’m fixing to just switch back to linux
 
Now it’s just doing the same thing i did previously installing. It’s on “just a moment” and freezes, black screens, then goes back to “just a moment” and does it over and over again. how can windows be this bad, I’m fixing to just switch back to linux
Now a APC_index_mismatch BSOD I LOVE WINDOWS! :)))))
 
Now a APC_index_mismatch BSOD I LOVE WINDOWS! :)))))
Finally got to the “let’s start with region. Is this right?” And it’s just frozen. Just black screened, now it’s back to that, and just does the same thing over and over again. I do not know what to do, i do not know what in gods green earth i did to have my PC screw up THIS BAD. i ONLY play games on here, i don’t download things that are bad, i don’t neglect my PC, it’s always cool. i do not know what to do at all. Geek squad told me it was my mother board, i sent it in, and it got lost and found a week later, i bought a new MOBO same as the one i had previously and sent with RMA, and it’s the same thing. if it was my processor, it wouldn’t boot in general, it would give me a light in the board and a warning on POST. only thing i can think of is a virus really messing things up this bad, which still, i don’t see how (IF) that happened. Apparently TDSSKILLER Dosnt have a bootable service, which is the dumbest thing in existence. Geek squad told me wrong, and made me spend another 200$ to then have the same issue. And it seems as if NO ONE else has this problem but me after searching in and out of the internet. Windows support is dog, and can’t even help or low their own codes(the guy i got was totally abhorrent when it came to BSODS)

this is so stressful, i hvnt been in my pc solidly in WEEKS. trying not to complain, but this is just getting to me and running me the wrong way. the ONLY consistent error code I’m getting (excluding the new one) is the Ci.dll, my memory is fine, my GPU? Fine, my CPU? Fine, MOBO? Just got a new one. My m.2 seems fine, it was fine when installing games yesterday and what not.
I have made count em now 5 tomshardware Threads, and 2 windows support threads, none of them solved it or gave me a solid thing to run on.
 
Sorry i did not see

Corsair PSU CX750M

couod it be that 750 isn’t enough? It most certainly should be
The PSU is rated for plenty of wattage, but is a medium quality PSU at best. It should be causing no problems with your system. However, I have had two separate systems, mine and a friends, who were having loads of issues, mostly BSODs with varying codes that never seemed to provide anything helpful. In my case, which happened first, I ended up replacing the PSU for a different reason, and the problem stopped immediately and forever. For my friends issue, with my previous knowledge, replaced his PSU, and his issues went away as well. Bad power to your PC can be a huge cause of issues, and most of the time, a PSU issue is very hard to track down, as it seems your issue is. Especially if you still have it under warranty, I would look at a return and replacement. I would get a top line PSU if possible, but even a swap replacement for another of the same unit could prove worth it, since it is unlikely that PSU would have a level of failure like that twice, because it is not THAT bad.

It is also possible the issue lies elsewhere, but the first thing I thought when I started reading your post, was "What PSU does he have", and the answer is one that could have an issue, but is on the better side of cheap PSUs.
 
Asked Reddit, one person said “RMA the CPU” i want a second thought. Should i?
I may have missed it in the many previous posts, but if you can, did you ever try swapping the components with known good ones? Maybe a friend who has a system with compatible RAM? If so, put your friends known working RAM sticks into your PC, and if the problem goes away, then you had faulty RAM modules. You can even do it both ways, and put your RAM sticks in your friends PC, and see if his PC has issues with them. This is not simple to do with a CPU, but is also technically possible if someone has a compatible CPU, which is less likely than compatible RAM.
 
I'm pretty doubtful about a fairly new CXm causing these kinds of problems, but not THAT doubtful, since I've seen plenty of CX and CXm power supplies cause almost every kind of problem over the years.

Here's one of many examples of that: https://forums.tomshardware.com/thr...clean-install-with-ddu.3697669/#post-22291594

If you are capable of doing the testing and have access to, or own, a volt meter, then testing the power supply is probably a good place to start in that regard.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ac7YMUcMjbw


As I believe I mentioned before, swapping out your graphics card for any other known good working card would be good too, just to eliminate any potential issues the graphics card might be contributing. This is a high probability possibility, because your problems seem to only be when gaming if I'm remembering correctly and problems with the CPU would tend to most often occur at ANY time, running any kind of application, browser, just using Windows, gaming, even when not in Windows, etc.

I'd want to eliminate everything else ENTIRELY before trying to go after the CPU. We have been seeing some elevated indications of CPU failures on some Ryzen models lately though, at least I have, despite the fact that CPU failures are extremely uncommon. Generally speaking we have historically seen less than 2-4%, much less, failure rate on CPUs except when some form of user fault was included such as unrealistic overclocking, dropping the part on a hard surface, improper installation, lack of cooling or problems with cooling, etc. However, as I said, with the Ryzen 5000 series it seems like we're seeing a pattern emerge that isn't promising for some models. So it's definitely not NOT possible either.

https://www.extremetech.com/computi...-5000-cpus-failing-at-higher-than-usual-rates


https://www.thefpsreview.com/2021/0...ailure-rates-suggests-powergpu/#comment-25615
 
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I'm pretty doubtful about a fairly new CXm causing these kinds of problems, but not THAT doubtful, since I've seen plenty of CX and CXm power supplies cause almost every kind of problem over the years.

Here's one of many examples of that: https://forums.tomshardware.com/thr...clean-install-with-ddu.3697669/#post-22291594

If you are capable of doing the testing and have access to, or own, a volt meter, then testing the power supply is probably a good place to start in that regard.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ac7YMUcMjbw


As I believe I mentioned before, swapping out your graphics card for any other known good working card would be good too, just to eliminate any potential issues the graphics card might be contributing. This is a high probability possibility, because your problems seem to only be when gaming if I'm remembering correctly and problems with the CPU would tend to most often occur at ANY time, running any kind of application, browser, just using Windows, gaming, even when not in Windows, etc.

I'd want to eliminate everything else ENTIRELY before trying to go after the CPU. We have been seeing some elevated indications of CPU failures on some Ryzen models lately though, at least I have, despite the fact that CPU failures are extremely uncommon. Generally speaking we have historically seen less than 2-4%, much less, failure rate on CPUs except when some form of user fault was included such as unrealistic overclocking, dropping the part on a hard surface, improper installation, lack of cooling or problems with cooling, etc. However, as I said, with the Ryzen 5000 series it seems like we're seeing a pattern emerge that isn't promising for some models. So it's definitely not NOT possible either.

https://www.extremetech.com/computi...-5000-cpus-failing-at-higher-than-usual-rates


https://www.thefpsreview.com/2021/0...ailure-rates-suggests-powergpu/#comment-25615
I see, i have swapped my 1050ti with a 1660 super from my friends old rig, still the same issue, and i forgot to mention, that when i installed windows the other day, after a while my opera GX would crash over and over again. Not just that, even file explorer, which makes me think it IS the CPU. After those crashes, it BSOD.
Not to mention, but i had the stock cooler for ryzen and had to undervolt my CPU via ryzen master, to about 1100-1200 with out it crashing my games before all this started due to the stock cooler being so horrible. was running idle 45c which isn’t good enough for me, when i got this NZXT x52, idle tuns 30-27c which is beyond amazing for me. this makes me think it’s closer to the CPU.

after saying this, do you think i should RMA?

also i tried the PSU test, it’s perfectly fine. I have a watt meter from when i was checking my car, and it had great values. Only thing i can see happening, is when launching game, my graphics card peeks and it’s too much load for the PSU, but to me makes me think why a 1050 ti would be doing that at stock clock.
 
No way, EVER, that your 1050 ti should make that CX750m break a sweat, especially relatively new, unless something was seriously wrong with it from the factory. And if there was, those tests should have been able to detect something IF you did them and IF you did the testing correctly. If not, who can say. But if so, then moving on.

Yes, I do think it is time you began to have a conversation with AMD tech support regarding an RMA and you can also point them to this thread and also, probably/hopefully, more importantly, the results that you've documented regarding all other types of testing that you've done in order to minimize the amount of interaction necessary with them and in general. They will be able to guide you better, and more importantly, in the required manner based on their own procedures, than I can. Or anybody else for that matter.

So I think that's where you're at at this point. Two motherboards, not the board. Power supplies passes tests (Assuming you did this)? Not the PSU then. Tried multiple single stick and multi stick memory configurations? Ok. Different graphics cards. Yes, thanks.

Basically all you can do, including clean installations of Windows, except, have the drives or drive been tested at all? If not, might want to do that last thing using Seatools for Windows or Western Digital lifeguard tools, or whatever utility you prefer based on input from others, to check and see that this is a healthy drive you're dealing with and that it's the ONLY drive connected during this process. If there are multiple drives, we need to know that too and disconnecting everything other than the primary OS drive at least for testing purposes, is a good idea.

https://www.minitool.com/partition-disk/ssd-health-check.html
 
No way, EVER, that your 1050 ti should make that CX750m break a sweat, especially relatively new, unless something was seriously wrong with it from the factory. And if there was, those tests should have been able to detect something IF you did them and IF you did the testing correctly. If not, who can say. But if so, then moving on.

Yes, I do think it is time you began to have a conversation with AMD tech support regarding an RMA and you can also point them to this thread and also, probably/hopefully, more importantly, the results that you've documented regarding all other types of testing that you've done in order to minimize the amount of interaction necessary with them and in general. They will be able to guide you better, and more importantly, in the required manner based on their own procedures, than I can. Or anybody else for that matter.

So I think that's where you're at at this point. Two motherboards, not the board. Power supplies passes tests (Assuming you did this)? Not the PSU then. Tried multiple single stick and multi stick memory configurations? Ok. Different graphics cards. Yes, thanks.

Basically all you can do, including clean installations of Windows, except, have the drives or drive been tested at all? If not, might want to do that last thing using Seatools for Windows or Western Digital lifeguard tools, or whatever utility you prefer based on input from others, to check and see that this is a healthy drive you're dealing with and that it's the ONLY drive connected during this process. If there are multiple drives, we need to know that too and disconnecting everything other than the primary OS drive at least for testing purposes, is a good idea.

https://www.minitool.com/partition-disk/ssd-health-check.html
I did test it, and it was fine, and i agree, no problem unless it was out of factory problems. The drives are healthy tested them after work, no errors what so ever. only drive attached was my m.2 Samsung evo plus. I’m filling out the RMA right now, also my old “old” motherboard is being shipped back to me right now from ASUS, i don’t have a description as to if it was messed up or not, but i can assume it wasn’t, so imma gonna take all my parts out again tonight, and take the new motherboard back and get a reference as to what it could be.
I will send them this thread for better help as well, as to explain it better to them as i know they’ll need it for diagnosis. I again thank you and apologize for the stress break i had earlier.