Corsair Obsdian 800D Case Mod Project

MonsterMawd

Distinguished
Jan 31, 2006
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This custom Corsair Obsidian case project is for Canada's premiere hardware review site, "Hardware Canucks"

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Here is some of the Case Mods & Supplies that will be used in this project

Acoustical Sound Proofing Sheets for your PC

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http://www.mnpctech.com/colored_acrylic_sheet_casemod_window.html

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U-channel molding, http://www.mnpctech.com/UChannel.html
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I'll be using these pop-rivets for computer cases, http://www.mnpctech.com/Pop_rivets_for_computer_case.html

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Most Computer Chassis will accept 1/8” diameter size Pop rivets.

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Hmmmm.... debating about the factory feet

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Sorry, these factory feet MUST GO!

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I just wanted to see how this rad grill looked on the Obsidian, thats all

I see some Chieftec cues in the manufacturing. The Obsidian reminded me of the old Alienware ALX chassis. The texture of the Matte Black finish as well

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The front bezel assembly comes off easily

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SATA Hot swappable HD bays

I'm not a fan of the Corsair "sail" window design, I'll take it Squared for this one..

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After a quick alteration! Square is better in this case.

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The Motherboard tray will slide out, but you must remove 3x screws and drill out 3x pop rivets, located in the rear (shown in photo) It would have been nice if the rivets were screws instead.

Maybe you've debated about painting your Obsidian chassis. This is how I remove the plastic "Tool-less" 5.25 bay sliders without breaking the tiny plastic tabs inside. These tabs hold the slider onto the bay. You will need to bend the metal tabs as I illustrate here. You need to first file down the sides of the metal tab, so it will sit flush when you flatten it (not shown). I will then tap the metal tab with a flat head screw driver using a rubber mallet.

Keep in mind if you're painting your chassis, you will need to bend the metal tabs back into place after re-installing the sliders. Doing this will likely chip your new paint! so you'll have to re-touch these tabs again. After considering this thought, I've decided to eliminate the sliders altogether. Corsair has left the option of fastening in your optical drive the traditional way with screws. Only 2 screws per side, but thats sufficient enough!
 
Looks good so far. Did you have to make a new window to fit in after making the side view square? Also, are you going to need to remove the black matte before painting it to make sure everything fits when reassembling the case?

Keep up the good work and keep us posted!
 
Thanks, Yes, I will have to make a new window now.. The factory finish might be corse enough to use for base coat

The Obsidian allows a 360 size radiator installation without any modification, but what fun is that? I just happen to have a new Hardware lab's Black Ice 420 GTX (3x 140mm) Radiator here. I'm altering the top panel of the Obsidian to accommodate it! The wider 420 rad requires surgery to the 5.25 Optical drive bay. You remove the 5.25 bay by drilling out all of the pop rivets on the front of the Obsidian chassis.

Supplies & Tools I used for this "photo illustrated" installation

Mnpctech 420 Radiator Grill from performance-pcs used for measuring the location.
You can also use these Radiator Mounting Templates
Masking Tape
Any Rotary tool like a Dremel
Jigsaw with 18 TPI or higher metal cutting blade
Center punch
Power Drill with 3/16" drill bit
12" Measuring Square
12x M4 x 35mm size socket head machine screws length of mounting screws on what fan/rad set-up works best for your system.
3x ??????? brand 140mm cooling fans (to be announced)

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more to come!
 
Nice, just wanted to thank you guys for all the great videos on YouTube, etc. You made me take another look at my Dremel ! The possibilities are endless. Greetings from Cape Cod , MA, USA
 
Thank you, awesome avatar btw!

I grabbed wrong screws on the way to the shop for the rad/grill/fans, so I'll have to continue on it tommorrow.

Here is the revised file for the 140mm fan grill
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80mm Honeycomb Acrylic Fan Grill, http://www.mnpctech.com/Computer_Fan_Grills_Laser_PC_Fan_Grills.html

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I also plan to sleeve the Power Supply Cables with one of these custom white PSU cable sleeve kits

24 Pin ATX Power Supply Removal & Molex Pin Extractor Tools when custom sleeving your Power Supply and Molex connectors.







I'm using these [url="http://www.mnpctech.com/FanGrommet.html"]Fan vibration rubber grommets
to mount the fan

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I use a Micro Flat head screw driver to install the Fan vibration rubber grommets.

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Give the fan hole a professional look by installing

U-channel rubber trim

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The U-channel molding will cover any mistakes or scratches made while cutting the fan hole.[/center]

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]#10-5/8 Black cooling fan screws

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Thats just Green because of our Cad software.. hehe

I'm removing the factory perforated grill to help improve airflow. This mod will also cut down on airflow noise from your cooling fans.

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To avoid creating scratches in the factory finish, apply masking tape over the area you're going to be cutting.

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The Obsidian uses "doomed" pop rivets, which doesn't allow the grill to sit flush. I will swap these out to the more flush "countersunk" pop rivets.

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Use 1/8" size drill bit to remove the factory pop-rivet

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Pop-rivet Tool (Gun)

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Tracing the inside diameter of the grill opening.

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Using the first 140mm fan grill design, to mark off the location for the hole.

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Using Dremel 1.5" cutting wheel to make initial cut into the chassis

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Using Jigsaw with 18 TPI metal cutting blade

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The case panel lip was removed with the Dremel to fit around the grill.

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Next I need to get the rad fitted properly so I can get everything off to paint soon.

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The rad grill pictured here is a 420 (3x140mm) it's machined from 3/16" 6061 aluminum, and anodized Black. It has fully adjustable inserts.
Different sizes and finishes of these rad grills are available from performance-pcs and they ship worldwide!

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Using 3/16" drill bit to make mounting screw holes.

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This is how my initial cut out for the radiator looked.

I attempted to install the grill/rad/fans, but the remaining "recessed" material wouldn't everything to fit together flush without using different size screws. I then decided to modify the panel further by removing the remaining honeycomb perforation and flatten the lip.

The recessed center portion of the top panel helps reinforce rigidity. However, the chassis is steel, so I don't believe it was too detrimental to do this. I think it would have been fine to have left the panel flat. I would consider designing the panel perforations in a Obsidian 2.0 with optional for both 360 or 420 size radiators.

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Flattening the fold was done by turning the chassis upside down on the bench, and flattening the folds with a rubber mallet. Now I could use M4 x 30mm length machine screws to attach everything together.

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I installed the three included 140mm fans from Corsair to pre-fit everything.

All of the 140mm fans will be replaced by another brand to be announced.
 
Sometimes it's just easier to remove parts like the switches and led lenses instead of taping them off before we prep for custom paint. The Obsidian power and reset switches can be removed with a soldering iron.

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Next time tell me advance, I'll toss in a shirt. Thank you Johnny 😀

I thought about that too, but actually like Corsair's switch and I/O bay.

The power switch bay all taped up, ready for prep and paint. Now I just need to decide what paint color I will do.
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Taping off the inside wall of the side panels from over spray.
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Thank you climb!

Anything you can remove instead of masking off, makes a custom paint job much more professional looking. If you decide to paint your Obsidian, you may or may not consider removing the panel release button and rod assembly.

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To remove the button, you'll need to poke in 4, release tabs with a small screw driver from the inside of the case.

Red arrow shows location of one of the 4, plastic tabs

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Remove the release button trim ring in the same manner

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Then you can remove the 4, tiny black screws. The rod is attached to the front of the chassis in the same manner, but without the button assembly.

Each rod has one spring one the button side.

Store these springs and fasteners in a plastic bag so they don't get lost!

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The color sample book of the Paint Gods, HOUSE OF KOLOR

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Staying faithful to the Maple Leaf tied into design, I decided on Candy Apple Red.
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This mini "skull" was painted with the Candy Apple Red..... Imagine the Obsidian painted this color!

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This is really inspirational, being a welder/fabricator that is. Iv been wanting an Obsidian for ages and thought there was no chance but mine came (fri-5th-feb). Ill be going water cooling at some stage so im going in, lol. Great work and cant wait to see final product all the best monster.

Dan
 
Thanks for tuning and commenting guys! I hope this project will the raise the bar for all customized Obsidian cases

Here is some photos taken while we sandblasted the chassis. The factory finish on the 800D is very thick and coarse, so it required 80 grit blasting sand

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