CPU Overheating to 150 Degrees F CPU Water Cooler at fault?

[trkh]

Alright first screenshots

CPU: http://gyazo.com/50dd07c826046b052d2c5047e9295fe2

Operating System
MS Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit SP1
CPU
AMD Athlon II X2 265
Regor 45nm Technology
RAM
4.00 GB Dual-Channel DDR3 @ 575MHz (9-9-9-24)
Motherboard
ASUSTeK Computer INC. M4A87T (AM3)
Graphics
Generic Non-PnP Monitor (1920x1080@60Hz)
AMD Radeon HD 6700 Series (Sapphire/PCPartner)
Hard Drives
466GB Western Digital WDC WD5000AAKX-001CA0 ATA Device (SATA)
Optical Drives
ATAPI iHAS124 B ATA Device
Audio
Realtek High Definition Audio

I think it is my watercooling, I haven't maintained it in 4 years and It makes a loud sound sometimes like a really fast fan but I dont know how to check if its messed up or even the <removed> name, I bought the computer of ibuypower 4 years ago


CPU TEMP: 153

Music and video at lowest quality are lagging and I can barely do anything

 

[trkh]

this case should have 4 fans one front and side as intake the back and top as outake also your psu fan is facing dow to the bottom of the case .

im so <removed> confused

 

[scout_03]

on the case link it should have came with 4 fans in her and the way they are set is air from fornt and side in back and top out that is a good air flow and the psu fan should face down .

 

[Erman Yudhistira]

i have an athlon II X2 250. even with stock cooler, it's only 30C for iddle and 50C on full load (in 26C room temperature). do you still have the stock cooler?

 

[trkh]

i have an athlon II X2 250. even with stock cooler, it's only 30C for iddle and 50C on full load (in 26C room temperature). do you still have the stock cooler?

yep 3 year old stock cooler

 

[m32]

CPU max is 74C or 165.2F

Your is no where near overheating. It is hot though. The stock HSF that comes with it should be enough to cool that CPU. I've had plenty of Athlons (x2, x3 and x4) and all ran pretty cool with the stock HSF. Is the cooler dusty? That could kill performance. Clean it if you haven't.

 

[scout_03]

one thing i could suggest is to clean the old paste and repaste with a well known paste also use this on the sensor part to compare your temp readins and fan ,voltages in the system all free http://www.hwinfo.com/download.php

 

[trkh]

one thing i could suggest is to clean the old paste and repaste with a well known paste also use this on the sensor part to compare your temp readins and fan ,voltages in the system all free http://www.hwinfo.com/download.php

well my pumps in the cooler sound like a <removed> plane turbine, so I think i just gotta replace it

 

[James Mason]

Well what are the ambient temperatures of the room you're in like?

Computers can't actually get the air much cooler then your ambient temperatures.

 

[trkh]

Well what are the ambient temperatures of the room you're in like?

Computers can't actually get the air much cooler then your ambient temperatures.

I have havent had a problem in 3 years im pretty sure if the day my water cooler starts sounding like a plane engine and my temps rise by 60 degrees than usual it has nothing to do with the temp in the air

 

[scout_03]

that water cooler did you check if it is not only the fan that near is end and a repaste wont do bad it will lower your temp .

 

[Karadjgne]

Chances are always good that after 4 years, a cheaper fan is gonna go ca-put. The radiator itself has no moving parts, so the only worries there are dust from the fan clogging the fins. A good vacc usually solve that. The fan however sounds like it's dying. Simplest immediate test is to grab one of your other fans and swap it out real quick. Boot up and see what the temps are. If they are decent (you are temporarily using a case fan not a radiator fan) then get a decent high pressure radiator fan ($8-$25) and swap your fns back. Better way than just spending good money on another cooler.
If your temps don't change, either the pump on the CPU is shot, or the radiator has evaporated too much liquid to be of any use. The liquid can be replaced cheap enuff, but if the pump is shot, then you'll have to replace the cooler.

 

[trkh]

Chances are always good that after 4 years, a cheaper fan is gonna go ca-put. The radiator itself has no moving parts, so the only worries there are dust from the fan clogging the fins. A good vacc usually solve that. The fan however sounds like it's dying. Simplest immediate test is to grab one of your other fans and swap it out real quick. Boot up and see what the temps are. If they are decent (you are temporarily using a case fan not a radiator fan) then get a decent high pressure radiator fan ($8-$25) and swap your fns back. Better way than just spending good money on another cooler.
If your temps don't change, either the pump on the CPU is shot, or the radiator has evaporated too much liquid to be of any use. The liquid can be replaced cheap enuff, but if the pump is shot, then you'll have to replace the cooler.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002XZM0I0/ref=shptrk_scth

I bought that

 

[Karadjgne]

That will work just fine. Just make sure you look up the directions on cleaning/installing a new cooler. The is a sticky on this site. GL with your new temps, remember though, they will be slightly different from the old cooler, you are switching form liquid to air.

 

[trkh]

That will work just fine. Just make sure you look up the directions on cleaning/installing a new cooler. The is a sticky on this site. GL with your new temps, remember though, they will be slightly different from the old cooler, you are switching form liquid to air.

<Removed> GREAT

now my cpu cooler is stuck in the motherboard because 1 of the 4 screws holding the cooler inplace on top of the cpu is stripped and stuck

<<Objectionable language removed by moderator>>

 

[Karadjgne]

replace the other 3 screws and tighten back down, carefully. Use a different screwdriver, one with a good tip on it still and with as little downward force as you can get away with re-try and loosen that screw. Then loosen other 3, only then remove.

IF it is too far stripped and you have an access hole in the back of the frame to reach the cpu pins, take a good drill, one with variable speed and stops with trigger release, and a very very small drill bit and carefully drill into the back of the screw, straight in as you can get. until you are in about 1/8 of an inch. Then stick a plain fine-thread drywall screw or similar sharp point screw into the hole and carefully turn, letting the threads bite into the old screw. hopefully it'll catch and you should then be able to torque the old screw out.

Only do the above if you have no access to a stripped screw reversing bit.