Dell laptop DC power jack pinout

[RFTech]

The diode "like" device that others have mentioned in prior posts is actual a single wire serial data chip that is programmed to provide the validity and current capability of the supply to the motherboard. This is why you cannot get a docked laptop to run using the basic 65W supply rather than the 90W that comes with the dock or port replicator. Failure to provide valid data from the supply to the motherboard will prevent battery charging and the CPU will be idled back to minimal functionality. A few universal supply manufacturers such as APC and Targus actually provide connector "tips" that include the requisite device programmed with the correct data for proper operation but most do not and simply will not work correctly./
Bob Fay

 

[meandmydog05]

I have a question and an idea. first the question:
Doesn't this P|ss you off??? I am so angry at companies that spend more money in R&D figuring out ways to scroo the customer than they spend on researching the actual product! Can you imagine how much extra money went into the design of this "Feature"? I'll tell you, less money than they would make selling Power supplies to the dumb sheep that are us. You can bet that there is a spread sheet somewhere deep in the basement at Dell that details this whole scenario. And they even worked out the loss of sales due to bad press. I am deeply offended by companies who act in this manner.

My idea.... Has anyone heard of an altered bios? this is the obvious solution I would think. If the bios could be altered , it would solve the problem at the source.

UPDATE:
WOW, I was pissed earlier today when I realized my battery wasn't going to charge, But then I got POSTAL when I realized that my computer was also going to run at 7xxMHz unless I put a Dell PS on it!!! But I just found a temporary work around for the speed throttling issue. Use "Rightmark CPU Clock Utility" It will let you set the CPU multiplier to what ever. for those who don't know, CPU speed is determined by the Frontside BUS Speed (usually Fixed at a certain speed) times the Multiplier.

My Dell 1521 was running at 798 (200Mhz x 4)
After I installed RM CPU Clock Utility I am now running 1795Mhz (200Mhz x 9)

(yeah I know, 200 x 9 is 1800 , not 1795, Don't ask me were the 5 MHz goes, but thats what the diagnostics tell you)

 

[tjcooper]

Got the new DC jack into the motherboard with no problems. Soldered silicon wires to the ground, +19.2DC, and to the center pin to monitor the signals. I tested the old DC jack compared to the new DC jack: result: absolutely nothing was broken or missing on the old DC jack.

So tearing off the old DC jack to fix the "battery not charging" problem was for nought. The new system performs exactly like the old system. The problem is that the center pin of the DC jack does not have a measurable connection to the motherboard that I can determine. If there is anyone out there who knows where the center pin goes to on the motherboard, please let me know (a picture of the chip it goes to would be GREAT).

But I did find a work around. I got a docking station and connected it to the computer. The docking station uses the same DC supply with a center pin. In this case, the unit works fine and charges the battery and runs the laptop with no problems. So if anyone knows where on the double row of pins for the docking station where the DC supply center pin goes, that would also solve my problem because I could run a wire from my replaced DC jack to that docking station pin and then the CPU would know that a "valid" DC supply is connected.

I have found on the Web a .pdf file that claims to be a schematic diagram for the D610 computer. I have searched that diagram for where the Vin connects and looked for anything like the center pin. Cannot find a signal that represents that function. If somebody knows what Dell calls the center pin signal, that would be a definite advance.

SO IF YOU CANNOT CHARGE YOUR BATTERY: try using a docking station (a common type fits all D600-630 systems) and be sure your power supply is at least 90 watts. If that makes your system work, you definitely know your center pin has been disconnected.

 

[andrepel]

On the D600, the 3rd pin goes thru L77, which is mounted close to the power jack. I have not looked where it is on the D610. L77 is located on the underside of the board, to the left of PV3. You can hardly see the lettering, there is a tin glob right where the 77 is etched, you can see the L properly.

I think if somebody can get the clock back up, I could figure out how to give the permissives to the Maxim battery charger chip. I would need to remove a couple of transistors, and bypass them. Those are to give the current reference to the charger. the D600 can take either a 65W, 90W, or a 130W power supply, but this info comes form the power supply itself. I can remove these selections, and make it so that it is fixed to 65W, it would take longer to charge the battery, but it would accept any power supply after this. The next step is to enable the charger when the AC is plugged in, I can do that, but my missing link was to get back the processor speed. 600MHz was not my type of processing power.

If anybody is interested, let me know, I can go in more details. Now, I said I think I can do it, but I have not tested it yet!

Where can I get that utility to crank up the speed?

And one last thing, tjcooper, how can I find the schematic diagram for the D610?

Thanks

 

[andrepel]

The Dell D600 has a known motherboard issue. It has a chip somewhere on it, that comes loose over time. I've yet to discover the exact chip. I can however give you a "Test" to check it.

If you hold pressure on the bottom of the laptop near the docking port while powering on, it may boot up. Press there pretty firmly, but not so hard as to break the plastic or anything. It will probably boot up and work one or two times afterward without pressing it there. Then it will fail again.

I currently have 3 or 4 boards with this condition and I'm trying to figure out a permanent fix. I came up with a crazy idea. If it works I will post it here in a few weeks. If it works, I will have discovered an answer that so far, Dell can't figure out. They KNOW it's a common defect, but they refuse to admit it. This model is too old now for them to warranty it it anyway. Good luck - Jimbo

I have seen a solder failure on the input choke, FL1, that gave me problems. With a half decent soldering iron just resolder the choke. It is locaded on the backside of the mobo, right below the power jack. I think the flexing of the board when the computer is handled with the power cord in, cracks the solder joint.

Good Luck!

 

[meandmydog05]

....... "I think if somebody can get the clock back up, I could figure out how to give the permissives to the Maxim battery charger chip.".........

........"If anybody is interested, let me know, I can go in more details. Now, I said I think I can do it, but I have not tested it yet!"

"Where can I get that utility to crank up the speed?".........

Yes. I am definitely interested.

I have a inspiron 1521 with this problem. I am using RightMark CPU Clock Utility and it is better than windows or Dell's power management. With RM CPU Clock , I can totally customize when and how the CPU throttles back. Or I can just leave it full throttle.

get it here http://cpu.rightmark.org/download/rmclock_235_bin.rar

That is really a great free program.

I have an extra (blown) 1521 motherboard, can I help in some way? I would love to come up with an easy way to screw Dell. Or at least, prevent Dell from screwing another customer. I am really angry at them. I have always hated companies that do this stuff, but Dell has suddenly taken 1st prize in my book. #1 company out to Scroo U.

 

[ladygreenwitch]

LGW,
If your only problem is that the power supply is intermittent and that by applying pressure that you can get it to charge the battery and keep the notebook powered, then you only need to "beef up" the the "inside" ring of the power supply. Some people do this with very thin shim tapes (like.001 inch berylium foil). This is risky because it could come loose and short to ground. Another way is to put flux on the inside ring, then very lightly put a thin coat of solder to the inside ring (this is the one that applies +19.6 volts to the system). The center pin is only to bring in a signal on a "one wire bus" that tells the maker and amperage of the power supply during bootup. Hope this helps. Replacing the DC jack is a real pain if you are not skilled in soldering.
Ted Cooper

Hey Ted,

Thank you so much for your reply, that is exactly what the problem is. My problem is that I have NO skill, or experience with soldering, and I don't think that this is going to be a good place to start. However, I may be able to find a local hardware tech who can do the job for me, (this is the bay area after all, 😉 ). So far everyone wants over $150 to even look at the problem, which is rediculous. I can see what the problem is, I just don't have the skill... yet .

I agree with the person who wrote how angry they were about this situation. I generally hate proprietary garbage like this, but if they at least designed it so that it didn't break, I would be less irked by Dell's apparent need to have only their power supplies connected to their laptops. I just get so angry with poor, shoddy, design and workmanship.

Thanks again, this sounds like it will work, I will write back and confirm. Best wishes to all of you still looking for answers.

TTFN

LGW

 

[tjcooper]

Ladygreenwitch,
If you always will use the same charger on this "hurting" unit, you could put the thin solder coat on the external chrome metal sleeve of your power supply. This is much easier to do that to put the solder on the internal metal sleeve of the laptop connector.
A lab tech can do this in about 3 minutes time and you should be able to test if the system is more reliable at this point. If you get too much solder, then a thin metal file can remove the excess with just a few strokes.

DO NOT use the Las Vegas repair facility called Laptop Repair (I think that is the correct name). They ripped me off on eBay for a DC jack repair and said all my other boards were failing and I needed a new graphics display card etc. The $150 repair ended costing me $450 (more than the cost of an eBay replacement unit) and when my technicians looked at their work later, the HAD NOT EVEN REPLACED ANY BOARDS or the DC JACK. Sadly I found this out later than eBay permits feedback. If I had the time, I would start legal proceedings against them because it was all fraud, plain and simple. So do be careful who you have do the work. Ask for references and check with the BBB.
Ted

 

[tjcooper]

General update:
Several of you have PMed me and asked where I found the .pdf of the Dell schematic. By accident I found the page again and will pass it on to you. This site has many different types of Dell laptops for which they have schematics. Please note that these are
most likely "Chinese copy" schematics since English is not the native language of whomever drew them. They do not have the
chip layouts so you won't know which chip is where. If anyone finds a diagram for D600 with component layouts, please pass it along here. The entire Dell community could use this help.

http://www.laptopschematic.com/dell/page/4/

Ted

 

[ladygreenwitch]

Ladygreenwitch,
If you always will use the same charger on this "hurting" unit, you could put the thin solder coat on the external chrome metal sleeve of your power supply. This is much easier to do that to put the solder on the internal metal sleeve of the laptop connector.
A lab tech can do this in about 3 minutes time and you should be able to test if the system is more reliable at this point. If you get too much solder, then a thin metal file can remove the excess with just a few strokes.

DO NOT use the Las Vegas repair facility called Laptop Repair (I think that is the correct name). They ripped me off on eBay for a DC jack repair and said all my other boards were failing and I needed a new graphics display card etc. The $150 repair ended costing me $450 (more than the cost of an eBay replacement unit) and when my technicians looked at their work later, the HAD NOT EVEN REPLACED ANY BOARDS or the DC JACK. Sadly I found this out later than eBay permits feedback. If I had the time, I would start legal proceedings against them because it was all fraud, plain and simple. So do be careful who you have do the work. Ask for references and check with the BBB.
Ted

Thanks Ted,

That is exactly what I was thinking. It also resolves the original design flaw by putting the "locking mechanism" on the easiest part to access. Don't worry, I know enough to stay away from those types. We have enough local kid wizards around here that do most of their own builds, and I would feel confident in any of them doing a tiny bit of soldering for me. Take care.

LGW

 

[andrepel]

General update:
Several of you have PMed me and asked where I found the .pdf of the Dell schematic. By accident I found the page again and will pass it on to you. This site has many different types of Dell laptops for which they have schematics. Please note that these are
most likely "Chinese copy" schematics since English is not the native language of whomever drew them. They do not have the
chip layouts so you won't know which chip is where. If anyone finds a diagram for D600 with component layouts, please pass it along here. The entire Dell community could use this help.

http://www.laptopschematic.com/dell/page/4/

Ted

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/9519-2-dell-laptop-power-jack-pinout#t375100

Try this link, I found it by accident. Very very helpful.


Andre

 

[pcclonic]

ihave a computer repair shop and if you have trouble finding connectors osv teams left this link has all the models and all brands. any other query email@pcclonic.es

http://www.laptopjacks.com/view_prod/Dell-Latitude-D420-AC-Adapter-9.html

 

[Tray75]

The Dell D600 has a known motherboard issue. It has a chip somewhere on it, that comes loose over time. I've yet to discover the exact chip. I can however give you a "Test" to check it.

If you hold pressure on the bottom of the laptop near the docking port while powering on, it may boot up. Press there pretty firmly, but not so hard as to break the plastic or anything. It will probably boot up and work one or two times afterward without pressing it there. Then it will fail again.

I currently have 3 or 4 boards with this condition and I'm trying to figure out a permanent fix. I came up with a crazy idea. If it works I will post it here in a few weeks. If it works, I will have discovered an answer that so far, Dell can't figure out. They KNOW it's a common defect, but they refuse to admit it. This model is too old now for them to warranty it it anyway. Good luck - Jimbo

Jimbotime 17,
I also aquired a D600 with the same problem. I accidently pressed down on the center of the keyboard and the other LEDs lit up, and stayed on for hours, and the laptop works fine.
Now when the leds don't come on I just press firmly on the "Y" key and they light up and stay on till next startup. Maybe a small crack in the motherboard? Tray

 

[crazyshirley]

This is not very elegant, but is none the less exactly what I did to get that stupid power jack off my motherboard. I took my dremel tool and cut the back off the bad jack, keeping very light pressure to not bend the motherboard or stress it in any way. I basically worked with tiny snips and dremel till I got it down to just pins and then it was easy to unsolder each pin. Yeah, that is why they call me crazy, but it worked. My husband calls me 'the bull' and covers his eyes when I do things like disassemble my laptop.

I am going to reread this thread because since I replaced the jack, my pooter claims I need a 130V to run it. I have an Inspiron E1705 which runs on 90V. It will charge on the 90V once I get it passed the initial boot, so it is merely more precocious than before. I am undecided as to whether to just get a 130V or try a work around.

crazy shirley

 

[aford10]

This topic has been closed by Aford10