DIY aluminum waterblock

Toggle sidebar Toggle sidebar
R

Ramroids55

Reputable
Dec 16, 2014
8
0
4,510
So, i have access to industrial aluminum wiring. From what i can gather, it is 99% pure, and according to http://www.engineersedge.com/properties_of_metals.htm the thermal properties of pure aluminum are on par with some copper alloys. Aluminum is easier to work with(at least for me) with a much lower melting point and the ease at which is pours and forms. So in the next few weeks, i will be casting, machining and creating a DIY aluminum waterblock.

I chose aluminum mainly because i have an aluminum heater core to use as a radiator, and crossing different types of metals is a no no from the info i've gathered. This is my first crack at liquid cooling, and i feel the urge to completely do it DIY style.

Parts list(so far):
-Aluminum wiring(thick gauge that goes into the breaker box)
-Tygon tubing(Opaque, because clear is meh and i wish to use a UV dye)
-Aluminum heater core(3"w X 7"l X 5" H(with aluminum internal piping)
-Fans(I plan on using the rear dual fans out of 4 xbox 360's)(had them lying around) 2 pushing air, 2 pulling away.
-Reservoir(4"x4"x12" acrylic)

The only issue i'm finding is the lack of a decent pump. This will be an externally mounted system, with the piping running through the case, so using a 120v pump isn't an issue. The only problem i'm having is finding the right type of pump. Do you guys have a suggestion? I know pond pumps last forever(have one thats been on since 2003 without being turned off). Any clues?
 
Sort by date Sort by votes
4Ryan6

4Ryan6

Champion
Apr 14, 2002
20,603
6
52,915
Aluminum can have negative results especially if electromagnetic properties is passed to the water from the 120v pump, even without there being other metals in the loop.

Especially reactive with any trapped air in the loop, so you will need to use some type of coolant with metallic protective properties, and some of those are not acrylic friendly.

There are good reasons why over the years the water cooling industry has adopted using mainly copper in the loop, they may have plated the copper with nickel, but it's still copper underneath.

The only pump caution would be find a pump solution that will not over pressure the system.

Pond pumps are extremely reliable for extended use but with that type of pump and it's output pressure do you even have a clue as to how much coolant could be forced inside your computer if an internal leak occurs.

It would be a disaster probably costing you the entire investment endeavor.

I'm not trying to be Mr. negative here, just attempting to make you aware of some things you may not know, so you have all the information you need to proceed.
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
Motopsychojdn

Motopsychojdn

Illustrious
Jan 26, 2010
11,746
3
41,960
Gameface on hehe, ok so you know the potential issues with ally but are obviously a man of means and skill, I'm up for seeing what we can create here so the only question I have is...
HOW crazy are you willing to get?
the only real loonie missing from this thread is Toolmaker03 hehe
Moto
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
R

Ramroids55

Reputable
Dec 16, 2014
8
0
4,510


I plan on it being pretty crazy. If the CPU block turns out well, i plan on making custom blocks for my GPU. This whole water cooling system will be external. Externally powered by an extra 550W psu. Large radiator, large reservoir, meh pump. Should be fun. If the block doesn't turn out well, there's a block that fits my mobo/cpu for 40$.

The whole thing will be tested for DAYS before it goes near the pc. Leak testing, stress testing, the works. I actually plan on putting a Small psi gauge to monitor the pressure of the system. Worst comes to worse, i'll tig the whole thing shut. Cant leak through a nice beaded weld lol

Think i found a good little pump to use from walmart.
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
Motopsychojdn

Motopsychojdn

Illustrious
Jan 26, 2010
11,746
3
41,960
What you going to use for weld? mind your choice of metals always hehe
If you check out mine and Ryans and Toolmaker03's builds, you'll see you're in good company so the crazier the better, I'm planning my rebuild at the moment and Ryans won't be too far away I think, and Tool, well hes a special kind of crazy that even I wonder about some days :)
I actually have a pressure valve on one of my parts but theres not enough pressure in my W/c loop to move it enough to see hehe (part of the reason for the rebuild) so thats a nice touch I'd like to see functioning in someone elses set up,
Whats the specs on Walmart pump please?
@Ryan, I'm not sure dude, he's not said hi but may have seen my posts lately, who knows wheres hes gotten to lol
Moto
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
R

Ramroids55

Reputable
Dec 16, 2014
8
0
4,510



I'd be tig welding the two halves together if i spot even a tiny leak. I've been doing some research and cast aluminum isn't always a good choice. I'd need/want extruded flat bars. So i'm on the hunt for a 3" wide, 12" long, 1/2" thick piece of flat bar extruded aluminum. Unless this guy comes through on this small oil cooler made of copper, then i can cast copper scrap and call it a day. Aluminum has a tendency to not be uniform in texture when cast, unless end milled(think cast iron, all gritty). I'm still in the planning phase of this. I may just end up buying a pump from frozen-cpu and fabbing up the rest.

Anyone have info if copper plated aluminum has any reactions? I can do the copper plating here at home. I made 10 gallons of copper acetate out of complete boredom and it needs to be used. lol
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
Motopsychojdn

Motopsychojdn

Illustrious
Jan 26, 2010
11,746
3
41,960
I'm not sure on copper plating aluminium, and any alloy you made would probably rot itself in a relatively short time once you added water and electricity, thats not to say don't try those options, just be aware its likely to be a confirmation exercise
A 'real' pump will at least free up brainspace for other wonderment as youll know specs etc are solid and dont need and magiffling to make suitable for purpose,
copper oil cooler sounds like a great excuse to bolt a tec on and help chill the mass a bit, dont have to go mad just a little rated plate to keep temps nice and low, not enough to warrant insulation or the worry of condensation :)
And if you can cast then gee, the skys the limit hehe, get creative and cast a lid for your block with fins and tap it to mount a fan over, some copper 'Icicles' in the copper tub will help retain cold more as well, I'm on the scrounge for copper to lump in the bottom of the chiller my own self so hope that guy comes through for you with that,
as for sealing the block, just machine a nice groove around both halves and fit an O-ring, as long as you give yourself a decent clamp on it youll be fine, most blocks are sealed with 4 screws and dont leak hehe
Moto
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
R

Ramroids55

Reputable
Dec 16, 2014
8
0
4,510
http://www.instructables.com/id/Computer-liquid-cooling-with-Car-parts/?ALLSTEPS

This was inspiration behind it. He used an actual pump, so i'm going to go that route. It's all externally mounted, with the tubing going through the back of the case(once it gets here). My current rig doesn't need to be water cooled at all, but im thinking about in the near future when i build an entirely new one. Plan on sticking with AMD, and there is a 6 core i have my eye on. With the water cooling system externally mounted, with an independant PSU, i don't have to worry about taxing out the 750W PSU i just bought. The internal PSU in my case will only be used for my mobo/cpu/graphics card and hard drives. The case fans and liquid will be controlled from outside, using a fan controller. So i can go full boogey when times needed, or back off the be damn near silent.
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
R

Ramroids55

Reputable
Dec 16, 2014
8
0
4,510


I whole heartily agree. I've scrapped the plans for the aluminum water block. Found 40' of 0 gauge wire in my garage(hell if i know where it came from). It's high purity as well, large industrial wiring is awesome like that. So copper block is it. Now the fun begins on designing the water channel design. Don't know if i should go with a internal fin pattern, or maze. Either way it will be a big ole' chunk of copper when its finished.

Not sure if i should braze it shut or use a gasket material to waterproof and close the two halves. If i braze it shut, there is no chance of a leak, but it will be damn near impossible to clean if i get residue build up. If i use a gasket material, i lose thermal transfer between the two halves of the block(unless i just a copper gasket, used in automotive applications).

The third option is to have the block be a full 1" tall, with 3/4" fins, and use 1/4" acrylic/plexi as a top, make it removable with stainless steel screws. I'm not the best with CAD by any means, i use good old fashioned pen and paper, so i'll be sketching up details. If the shape is too complex for my milling machine at home, i have a family run machine shop that my uncle owns with dozens of CNC machines..so this should come out nice. Luckily, i have a diagram for machining :p https://koolance.com/files/products/diagrams/cpu-380a_d1.pdf
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
4Ryan6

4Ryan6

Champion
Apr 14, 2002
20,603
6
52,915
Though I appreciate your enthusiasm regarding casting your own CPU water block the advancements that have been made in water blocks are way past any type of casting success.

Danger Den was determined to keep producing their casting line that used the casted pin design, great flow rate and low restriction but pitiful cooling performance, they were stuck on hanging on to the design for years but the bottom line was the block was a poor cooling performer.

My point is where is Danger Den today?

You can snag an XSPC RASA CPU water block today very cheap and focus on your auto rad and the rest, but I seriously doubt your water block casting is going to be of any real significance, but feel free to prove me wrong! :)

FYI the XSPC Raystorm is priced well and the Raystorm is a great improvement over XSPCs RASA water block, it has lower flow restriction than the RASA, with better cooling performance, but the EK Supremacy EVO is the top cooling performing water block right now, and the EK Supremacy EVO copper is on my wish list right now.

Creating things from scratch Ideas are great, I've made some things from scratch as well, my insulated reservoir for example, but some of the available water cooling products of today are just too good to pass up, IMO, of course.
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
R

Ramroids55

Reputable
Dec 16, 2014
8
0
4,510


I'm a tried and true DIY'er, i'd rather spend more, making something from scratch, than spend less and get something someone else has. Even if the one i have sucks lol.

But it won't simply be cast. I'll be casting the 1/2" ingot, then hammering/forging it into a tighter molecular bond(also, i like hitting things with hammers). The initial casting will probably be around 3/4" thick. Two blocks cast out of the same batch
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
4Ryan6

4Ryan6

Champion
Apr 14, 2002
20,603
6
52,915


I'm not saying he's not one of us Moto, just throwing a little caution into the information pool, I want to see him succeed in his endeavors!

I wouldn't listen when others were trying to dissuade me from Chilled Water Cooling, and apparently he has that same determination! :)

So I wish him the Best! :)

 
Upvote 0 Downvote
You must log in or register to reply here.

TRENDING THREADS

Latest posts

Moderators online

Share this page

COMPANY
RESOURCES
FOLLOW
Top Bottom