Question Do I have to set up AIO cooler in the BIOS?

Aug 3, 2024
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Built my first pc with a ryzen 7700x last weekend. The 30 dollar air cooler wasn’t sufficient so I got a lian li galahad ii trinity sl inf at microcenter. I plugged it all in correctly (I’m almost positive) but my cpu is hitting 80c in the cyberpunk menu. My coworker who builds pcs all the time suggested that I had to go into the bios and set it up as an AIO water cooler since it thinks my aio is just an air cooler. According to anyone’s experience, is this the case? I have a gigabyte aorus b650 ax elite ice motherboard if that helps.
 
I dont think you need to install it into bios because once you pluged the wires into motherboard it will work. Have you used thermel paste on cpu when you installed the cooler


Here website where you can install the software and set up a fan profile and such and also with your motherboared bios you can set the fan speeds
 
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Aug 3, 2024
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I dont think you need to install it into bios because once you pluged the wires into motherboard it will work. Have you used thermel paste on cpu when you installed the cooler


Here website where you can install the software and set up a fan profile and such and also with your motherboared bios you can set the fan speeds
Yeah I put thermal paste on it
 
Aug 3, 2024
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Yeah I put thermal paste on it
He showed m
I dont think you need to install it into bios because once you pluged the wires into motherboard it will work. Have you used thermel paste on cpu when you installed the cooler


Here website where you can install the software and set up a fan profile and such and also with your motherboared bios you can set the fan speeds
he did show me that the bios can be set to the wrong type of cooler so I hope that’s it, the other option is that the pump isn’t working or the CPU is getting “over volted” by the motherboard (something a dude on a pc repair hotline said could be possible)
 
He showed m

he did show me that the bios can be set to the wrong type of cooler so I hope that’s it, the other option is that the pump isn’t working or the CPU is getting “over volted” by the motherboard (something a dude on a pc repair hotline said could be possible)

I had many coolers before and just installed it onto motherboard and pluged the wires into it and started it up. Only setting that changed was fan and pump setting in bios to run them more faster and downloaded the program to change RGB and fan speed settings and such.
 
Aug 3, 2024
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I had many coolers before and just installed it onto motherboard and pluged the wires into it and started it up. Only setting that changed was fan and pump setting in bios to run them more faster and downloaded the program to change RGB and fan speed settings and such.
So my thing with what you said is that there are BIOS settings related to pumps, so it might not be on or even set to the water pump setting
 
Go into your bios and check if your pump working but you would not be able to load pass windows if cooler is not working because will shut down to protect itsself. So would make sure that you installed it correctly onto CPU and make sure you did not use to much paste and set fan profile to go faster in bios or software

gigabyte-x670-aorus-elite-ax-25-1024x640.jpg
 
Aug 3, 2024
7
0
10
I dont think you need to install it into bios because once you pluged the wires into motherboard it will work. Have you used thermel paste on cpu when you installed the cooler


Here website where you can install the software and set up a fan profile and such and also with your motherboared bios you can set the fan speeds
Yeah I got L-Connect, my main thing is that I’m thinking that in my motherboard bios specifically there’s an option where it is acting like an air cooler
 
Aug 3, 2024
7
0
10
Go into your bios and check if your pump working but you would not be able to load pass windows if cooler is not working because will shut down to protect itsself. So would make sure that you installed it correctly onto CPU and make sure you did not use to much paste and set fan profile to go faster in bios or software

gigabyte-x670-aorus-elite-ax-25-1024x640.jpg
I’m pretty sure I installed it correctly and put the right amount of thermal paste, they have a little tool that prevents you from using too much. The fans themselves are working so I think that it wouldn’t shut down because it sees that there’s a cooler there, just not a water cooler
 
I’m pretty sure I installed it correctly and put the right amount of thermal paste, they have a little tool that prevents you from using too much. The fans themselves are working so I think that it wouldn’t shut down because it sees that there’s a cooler there, just not a water cooler

Then try going into bios or software to change fan speed setting and check the temps in game
 

emitfudd

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Apr 9, 2017
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I have an Asus motherboard so I'm not sure about yours but if you plug the AIO into the AIO connector on the motherboard it should run at 100% which is what you want.

After looking at your motherboard it looks like it doesn't have an AIO connector. Just use the CPU optional and make sure it is set at 100%. In the screenshot from

XxDarkMario20xX

it is right above the one that is selected. Select CPU OPT and set the curve straight up and straight to the right so it runs at 100% all the time.
 
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Paperdoc

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There IS a BIOS setting you need to check that can cause this issue, and it is an obscure item not often mentioned in instructions. Background: with that AIO system (like most) the design is that the PUMP should always have a full 12 VDC power supply from its header so it always operates at full speed. Control of the CPU temperature is done only by altering the speed of the RAD FANS according to the temperature sensor inside the CPU chip.

Here's the quirk that can cause a problem. There are two basic designs of fans: older ones with 3 wires (and holes in their connectors) have their speed controlled only by reducing the Voltage supplied to them; newer ones with 4 wires (and holes) should receive a fixed full voltage supply PLUS a new PWM signal from Pin #4 that the fan uses to control its speed. Because both are available, many mobos (including yours) offer on most of their fan headers an option to set the header CONTROL MODE. This is the detail of which electrical signal set is sent out to the fan on the header to achieve the speed required. They also offer an "Auto" option for this item to make it simple for users to ensure that the correct signals are sent out to whichever fan design is connected, and that is usually the default setting of a header. What that actually does at every start-up is run a test of the fan's response to PWM signals. If that does reduce the fan's speed, OK. If it does not, then the header switches to the older Voltage Control Mode to force the fan speed to change when needed.

Now, the PUMP of your system is designed electrically just like an older 3-pin fan, and that type can NOT use the PWM signal to change its speed. So when that pump is connected to the CPU_FAN header (or another) that uses this Auto detection system, it is found to be an "older 3-pin fan" and the header changes to reducing the Voltage sent out to force the "fan" to run at a lower speed. That is exactly what we do NOT want for the PUMP - it is supposed to run full speed all the time! Running at reduced speed reduces the cooling capacity of your AIO system. So there IS a way to fix that with a BIOS setting.

If you don't have it yet, get the BIOS Setup Guide for your mobo here

https://download.gigabyte.com/FileL...e_0104.pdf?v=cfbe0375700835184b0adf38304d004b

See p. 2 on how to enter BIOS Setup (you may already know this). For your mobo, the best connection system would be to plug the PUMP 's 3-hole cable into the mobo CPU_FAN header, and the RAD FANS (via their Splitter) into the CPU_OPT header. See your manual p. 4 for the Main Menu, then use the F6 key to get to Smart Fan 6 on p. 6. At upper left you select which header you are adjusting. Make these same settings at upper right for BOTH the CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT headers
CPU_FAN Speed Control to Normal - do NOT set to Silent
Fan Control Use Temperture Input to CPU IF this option exists for these headers - it may be set this way akready and you cannot change
CPU_FAN Control Mode to PWM, not Auto or Voltage
CPU_FAN Stop to DISabled so these items can never stop
CPU_FAN Mode to Slope
CPU_FAN Fail Warning to ENABLED so you WILL get a message on-screen if ever the pump or rad fans fail

When you have all your fan headers adjusted, use the BACK button at bottom right to return to the Main Menu. There hit the F10 key to get to the Exit Menu (p.25) and choose Save & Exit Setup. This will save your new settings and reboot.

Set up this way, your pump will run full speed all the time as designed (spec is close to 3200 RPM). The Rad Fans will have their speed adjusted continually according to the temperture inside the CPU chip. The speed signal of the pump will be monitored for NO signal, whcih would indicate it has failed. If that ever happens you will get a warning on screen and it probably will shut down your entire system soon afterwards, even without waiting for the CPU temp sensor to show high temps. This is to protect the CPU from rapid overheating with NO cooling if the pump fails. ONE of the rad fans also will be monitored for failure similarly, but not all of them can be monitored. So from time to time YOU should just look and verify that all rad fans are working.

All this should ensure your AIO cooling system works properly, and may reduce the CPU temperture. Be aware that the max temperture spec for this CPU is 95C, and that the Cyberpunk test is intended to get the CPU working hard. So 80C under that workload is quite acceptable. If you find that, under those high load conditions the RAD FAN speed is still NOT at full speed (2450 RPM max spec), then your system actually COULD cool more but does not think that necessary.
 
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emitfudd

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There IS a BIOS setting you need to check that can cause this issue, and it is an obscure item not often mentioned in instructions. Background: with that AIO system (like most) the design is that the PUMP should always have a full 12 VDC power supply from its header so it always operates at full speed. Control of the CPU temperature is done only by altering the speed of the RAD FANS according to the temperature sensor inside the CPU chip.

Here's the quirk that can cause a problem. There are two basic designs of fans: older ones with 3 wires (and holes in their connectors) have their speed controlled only by reducing the Voltage supplied to them; newer ones with 4 wires (and holes) should receive a fixed full voltage supply PLUS a new PWM signal from Pin #4 that the fan uses to control its speed. Because both are available, many mobos (including yours) offer on most of their fan headers an option to set the header CONTROL MODE. This is the detail of which electrical signal set is sent out to the fan on the header to achieve the speed required. They also offer an "Auto" option for this item to make it simple for users to ensure that the correct signals are sent out to whichever fan design is connected, and that is usually the default setting of a header. What that actually does at every start-up is run a test of the fan's response to PWM signals. If that does reduce the fan's speed, OK. If it does not, then the header switches to the older Voltage Control Mode to force the fan speed to change when needed.

Now, the PUMP of your system is designed electrically just like an older 3-pin fan, and that type can NOT use the PWM signal to change its speed. So when that pump is connected to the CPU_FAN header (or another) that uses this Auto detection system, it is found to be an "older 3-pin fan" and the header changes to reducing the Voltage sent out to force the "fan" to run at a lower speed. That is exactly what we do NOT want for the PUMP - it is supposed to run full speed all the time! Running at reduced speed reduces the cooling capacity of your AIO system. So there IS a way to fix that with a BIOS setting.

If you don't have it yet, get the BIOS Setup Guide for your mobo here

https://download.gigabyte.com/FileL...e_0104.pdf?v=cfbe0375700835184b0adf38304d004b

See p. 2 on how to enter BIOS Setup (you may already know this). For your mobo, the best connection system would be to plug the PUMP 's 3-hole cable into the mobo CPU_FAN header, and the RAD FANS (via their Splitter) into the CPU_OPT header. See your manual p. 4 for the Main Menu, then use the F6 key to get to Smart Fan 6 on p. 6. At upper left you select which header you are adjusting. Make these same settings at upper right for BOTH the CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT headers
CPU_FAN Speed Control to Normal - do NOT set to Silent
Fan Control Use Temperture Input to CPU IF this option exists for these headers - it may be set this way akready and you cannot change
CPU_FAN Control Mode to PWM, not Auto or Voltage
CPU_FAN Stop to DISabled so these items can never stop
CPU_FAN Mode to Slope
CPU_FAN Fail Warning to ENABLED so you WILL get a message on-screen if ever the pump or rad fans fail

When you have all your fan headers adjusted, use the BACK button at bottom right to return to the Main Menu. There hit the F10 key to get to the Exit Menu (p.25) and choose Save & Exit Setup. This will save your new settings and reboot.

Set up this way, your pump will run full speed all the time as designed (spec is close to 3200 RPM). The Rad Fans will have their speed adjusted continually according to the temperture inside the CPU chip. The speed signal of the pump will be monitored for NO signal, whcih would indicate it has failed. If that ever happens you will get a warning on screen and it probably will shut down your entire system soon afterwards, even without waiting for the CPU temp sensor to show high temps. This is to protect the CPU from rapid overheating with NO cooling if the pump fails. ONE of the rad fans also will be monitored for failure similarly, but not all of them can be monitored. So from time to time YOU should just look and verify that all rad fans are working.

All this should ensure your AIO cooling system works properly, and may reduce the CPU temperture. Be aware that the max temperture spec for this CPU is 95C, and that the Cyberpunk test is intended to get the CPU working hard. So 80C under that workload is quite acceptable. If you find that, under those high load conditions the RAD FAN speed is still NOT at full speed (2450 RPM max spec), then your system actually COULD cool more but does not think that necessary.
Just made a note to myself to never buy a Gigabyte board.