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gm0n3y
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- Mar 13, 2006
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The old advice to not cheap out on the PSU stays true today. When I build a machine for a friend, the PSU is the LAST place I would cheap out. It's been my experience that it is the single largest source of hardware problems in PCs, even with a midrange unit. They are also often hard to diagnose.
Max Collodi
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[citation][nom]gm0n3y[/nom]The old advice to not cheap out on the PSU stays true today. When I build a machine for a friend, the PSU is the LAST place I would cheap out. It's been my experience that it is the single largest source of hardware problems in PCs, even with a midrange unit. They are also often hard to diagnose.[/citation]
I agree. I'm always amazed or perhaps amused when people having problems come to the forums for advice and list their specs. They will list all their parts in great detail except the PSU. They'll either not mention the power supply at all or just say "500 Watt PSU" as if the quality of that one component didn't matter as much as the rest.
I agree. I'm always amazed or perhaps amused when people having problems come to the forums for advice and list their specs. They will list all their parts in great detail except the PSU. They'll either not mention the power supply at all or just say "500 Watt PSU" as if the quality of that one component didn't matter as much as the rest.
Let's not discount the fact that cheap power supplies are VERY hard on motherboards. You only need to melt one resistor to render an entire board useless. I used to use cheap power supplies when I first started building PCs, and after replacing 3 PSUs and 2 motherboards over the course of 2-3 years, I got the great idea to start buying quality components. Haven't had a single PSU or mobo failure since.
RADIO_ACTIVE
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- Jan 17, 2008
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"The retailers’ marketing of these products is more fraud than funny"
This is complete fraud and false advertisement. I am suprized they can sell a product that might burn your house done, doesn't stuff like this need to be tested for safty.
This is complete fraud and false advertisement. I am suprized they can sell a product that might burn your house done, doesn't stuff like this need to be tested for safty.
RADIO_ACTIVE
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truchonic
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- Apr 20, 2011
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i like the cheap one have a power switch lol well there is so many brands and warranties around on the market the to have to read a lot of the aspect and if you have a $3000 rig you better have look for a good ps, but thanks for the tip TOM right now i'm looking for a new case and a psu... 
mapesdhs
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- Jan 22, 2007
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I agree with the $40 starting point for anything sensible. Last year I built a
moderately simple PC for my neighbour & his family (wife, 2 children); I bought a
new CiT 700W B.E. PSU for 29.60 UKP (free shipping). The rest of the system was an
ASUS M2N-VM DVI mbd, AMD 6000+ 3GHz CPU, Coolermaster Centurion Plus 534 case
(bagged a new one half price, only 20), 2GB DDR2/800 RAM (OCZ Reaper dual-channel
kit), ASUS Glaciator 8800GT 512MB PCIe, LSI U320 SCSI PCIX Card, 73GB 15000rpm U320
SCSI system disk (Fujitsu MAX3073NC), 500GB 7200rpm SATA2 data disk (bought new;
Samsung HD502HJ SpinPoint F3), 54 Mbit wifi card, DVDRW, 52X CDROM, floppy drive,
IBM Multimedia USB Keyboard (new) and MS USB wheelmouse. The CPU/RAM/mbd/gfx was a
bundle I bought on eBay for 135 BIN, which also came with Stalker SHOC (boxed
complete); the system runs the game nicely.
Total cost: 282 UKP. It's been running over a year now, no problems at all, and
very nippy & reliable with the 15K drive (XP Pro SP3). The one thing I did suggest
they buy totally new was the display, which they did (LG 22W W2254TQ-PF, 22", 2ms,
1680x1050, 300 cdm/2, 1000:1, cost 137 back then).
So there's cheap but pretty decent, like the CiT (though I wouldn't use one
for SLI/CF or serious oc'ing), and then there's cheap & total garbage, like
ribeye-steak-value imports from a different continent.
These days I just try and get Thermaltake Toughpower PSUs off eBay, use them for
all my systems (750W minimum).
As many others have said, ya get what ya pay for...
Ian.
moderately simple PC for my neighbour & his family (wife, 2 children); I bought a
new CiT 700W B.E. PSU for 29.60 UKP (free shipping). The rest of the system was an
ASUS M2N-VM DVI mbd, AMD 6000+ 3GHz CPU, Coolermaster Centurion Plus 534 case
(bagged a new one half price, only 20), 2GB DDR2/800 RAM (OCZ Reaper dual-channel
kit), ASUS Glaciator 8800GT 512MB PCIe, LSI U320 SCSI PCIX Card, 73GB 15000rpm U320
SCSI system disk (Fujitsu MAX3073NC), 500GB 7200rpm SATA2 data disk (bought new;
Samsung HD502HJ SpinPoint F3), 54 Mbit wifi card, DVDRW, 52X CDROM, floppy drive,
IBM Multimedia USB Keyboard (new) and MS USB wheelmouse. The CPU/RAM/mbd/gfx was a
bundle I bought on eBay for 135 BIN, which also came with Stalker SHOC (boxed
complete); the system runs the game nicely.
Total cost: 282 UKP. It's been running over a year now, no problems at all, and
very nippy & reliable with the 15K drive (XP Pro SP3). The one thing I did suggest
they buy totally new was the display, which they did (LG 22W W2254TQ-PF, 22", 2ms,
1680x1050, 300 cdm/2, 1000:1, cost 137 back then).
So there's cheap but pretty decent, like the CiT (though I wouldn't use one
for SLI/CF or serious oc'ing), and then there's cheap & total garbage, like
ribeye-steak-value imports from a different continent.
These days I just try and get Thermaltake Toughpower PSUs off eBay, use them for
all my systems (750W minimum).
As many others have said, ya get what ya pay for...
Ian.
pale paladin
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- Jul 27, 2009
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PreferLinux
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- Dec 7, 2010
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[citation][nom]pcman911[/nom]I wish they would do a similar test on the inexpensive power supplies that some of the e-tailers sale. Would be nice to see how some of the Diablotek, Rosewill, HEC, Coolmax, and others stand up in this test. I always purchase the Antec and Corsair 380-420 watt units when they are on sale for repairs and low end builds. Corsair 430WT on sale right now for $29.99 free shipping, can't beat that for reliability. I found one website that had a nice list of the real component manufacturers of some of the inexpensive names, but it was not kept up.[/citation]
Add Hyena/Deer to that list. Just about guaranteed to give a fireworks display! Or at least not work properly.
Add Hyena/Deer to that list. Just about guaranteed to give a fireworks display! Or at least not work properly.
"Further testing was not possible because, during a short test with a 300 W load, the PSU suddenly bode us farewell with several explosions and sparks flying everywhere. Once more, we didn’t even have our camera ready. We simply were unprepared for a unit to totally give up so far below its rated output ceiling."
[citation][nom]WHComp[/nom]This is my favorite article ever. I laughed the entire time I was reading it.[/citation]
You beat me to it! This article was hilarious!
[citation][nom]WHComp[/nom]This is my favorite article ever. I laughed the entire time I was reading it.[/citation]
You beat me to it! This article was hilarious!
radium69
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- Jul 12, 2007
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Using an OCZ GameXStream for the last 4 years.
They give a standard 3! Year warranty. And this thing has been going rock solid, all day long. Even with the occasional overclocking GPU and CPU.
Back in the "Nub" days I bought a cheap Q-Tec, never again... 550w screaming power. (Really screamy) Ran crazy hot and lasted 2 years with very low load...
Atleast I did not learn it the hard way.
Using corsairs and Antecs now.
Really stable and quality power supplies, if you choose the middle budget ones.
OCZ is in my rig with an overclocked Q6600 @ 3.2ghz and a 8800GTX OC with 4HDD's. Idling at 185W, realising I could just save some money and buy a 500W Branded power supply. I like to keep some room though
They give a standard 3! Year warranty. And this thing has been going rock solid, all day long. Even with the occasional overclocking GPU and CPU.
Back in the "Nub" days I bought a cheap Q-Tec, never again... 550w screaming power. (Really screamy) Ran crazy hot and lasted 2 years with very low load...
Atleast I did not learn it the hard way.
Using corsairs and Antecs now.
Really stable and quality power supplies, if you choose the middle budget ones.
OCZ is in my rig with an overclocked Q6600 @ 3.2ghz and a 8800GTX OC with 4HDD's. Idling at 185W, realising I could just save some money and buy a 500W Branded power supply. I like to keep some room though
TitusFFX
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- Apr 14, 2011
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Using a Antec 520watt modular and no problem at all even when pushing at over 85% of max load, and that is using a video card that requires a minimum of 450watt ^.^ Only paid about 50 at newegg and haven't even thought about replacing it after a few years now.
someguynamedmatt
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- Feb 7, 2010
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I've had a 685W $15 Orion Power supply for 4 years running a gtx260 previously and now dual 6870's for about a year...this article has me kinda worried lol
TitusFFX
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- Apr 14, 2011
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[citation][nom]TheInvisibleMan[/nom]I've had a 685W $15 Orion Power supply for 4 years running a gtx260 previously and now dual 6870's for about a year...this article has me kinda worried lol[/citation]
Ehh it's shoot and miss sometimes you can run up on a decent one and other times you can run up buying a brick with some plugs attached to it. Never can tell.
Ehh it's shoot and miss sometimes you can run up on a decent one and other times you can run up buying a brick with some plugs attached to it. Never can tell.
TitusFFX
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well here is a video that is fairly relitive of how relyable most really cheap ones in the low 20s and under are... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zWt3St_MhSY&feature=related
phaedrus2129
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- Apr 13, 2011
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Things you need to improve on:
Define your testing methodology. What amount of current were you pulling from each rail, how long did you run each test, what were the ambient temperatures, etc.
Why does the LPK not have ripple results?
At least open it up to take a quick shot of the internals, even if you lack the technical skill to do a real analysis. And if you do have the skill, these PSUs can be a great "How NOT to do it" guide.
Oh yeah, full disclosure should include the fact that the equipment isn't yours, though I admit there's little chance for bias in this review.
You need something between 85W and 300W. Most of these crap PSUs will fail between 200W and 300W, and that's the type of load something like a mid-range prebuilt PC with an upgraded video card (like an HD5750) might pull. An important range to test, especially since that's the type of market these PSUs are aimed toward.
Also, CLARIFY YOUR METHODOLOGY. It bears mentioning twice.
Also, actual voltage regulation figures would be nice.
You have access to equipment that can do transient load and transient turn on tests. Why haven't you included those?
Perhaps should have compared these units to some budget "name brand" units and to some PSUs from pre-built computers--Delta, Hipro, Lite-On, etc. A useful comparison.
Keeping a video camera on the PSUs when you know they're going to blow is a good plan. Gabe Torres does it, and it would be good publicity to have this stuff on Youtube.
Bottom line: your PSU reviews still aren't up to scratch.
Define your testing methodology. What amount of current were you pulling from each rail, how long did you run each test, what were the ambient temperatures, etc.
Why does the LPK not have ripple results?
At least open it up to take a quick shot of the internals, even if you lack the technical skill to do a real analysis. And if you do have the skill, these PSUs can be a great "How NOT to do it" guide.
Oh yeah, full disclosure should include the fact that the equipment isn't yours, though I admit there's little chance for bias in this review.
You need something between 85W and 300W. Most of these crap PSUs will fail between 200W and 300W, and that's the type of load something like a mid-range prebuilt PC with an upgraded video card (like an HD5750) might pull. An important range to test, especially since that's the type of market these PSUs are aimed toward.
Also, CLARIFY YOUR METHODOLOGY. It bears mentioning twice.
Also, actual voltage regulation figures would be nice.
You have access to equipment that can do transient load and transient turn on tests. Why haven't you included those?
Perhaps should have compared these units to some budget "name brand" units and to some PSUs from pre-built computers--Delta, Hipro, Lite-On, etc. A useful comparison.
Keeping a video camera on the PSUs when you know they're going to blow is a good plan. Gabe Torres does it, and it would be good publicity to have this stuff on Youtube.
Bottom line: your PSU reviews still aren't up to scratch.
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