Duron overclocking

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it doesnt like them but the few ive got my hands on ran fine at 133... the pci ratios set for a c athlon...

if in doubt blame microsoft...
 
ok because i set it to 133fsb and it shows up as 924mhz which is cool.. i even boosted up the voltage to 1.7 and in 3dmark2001 it crashes everytime. Even at normalsetting of 700mhz. BUT! i had top performance enabled so i'm wondering if that had anything to do with it. I'll give it a try again today.

the gigabyte GA-7DXR is nice. But how they share IRQ's is a little stupid. pci 1 and 2 are left alone. it looks like pci4 is shared with agp. Thats all i can remember. so the irq's are a little weird. oh pci5 is shared with pci1 and usb controlers i think and pci 3 is like shared with the pci mass storage controller or raid. pretty weird.

but other than 3dmark2001 which i'm sure was just the bios setting, it is super stable. I even turned it on i get home my duron cpu temp is 30C! and in sleep mode it did not lock up on me and it just ran stable. really nice. oh and the dip switches are fun. heh.

you probably dun care but *shrugs* but i'm all giddy at this point tehe. heh ... i'll post a definite review of the board and a sdr vs ddr comparison. so far i have actually noticed a difference with ddr ram and i only have the fsb at 100mhz or PC1600!

Think first, if you have nothing worth more then a dollar don't say anything at all.
 
I have the same board in my Vapochill case. RIP for the moment cooling is not working as well as it used to but that is beside the point. I was having lockups when running at high FSB until I increased the refresh rate on my video card to 85hz. My video card is an Asus v8200. I found that anything above 60hz will stop the crashing. I found I could also disable fast writes in BIOS to correct the problem but who wants to live without that. The artifact that hipped me to this was a chunky movement when viewing 3d graphics. However, this did not affect the score.

Schmide
 
Well i have a radeon card and it doesn't support fast writes and i have it enabled in the bios!?

i should disable that too...

<A HREF="http://www.anandtech.com/mysystemrig.html?id=9933" target="_new"> My Rig </A>
 
Hmm, would a Duron 800 work at 1.066GHz (133MHz fsb) assuming voltage is at 1.85v and cooling isn't a problem?

AMD technology + Intel technology = Intel/AMD Pentathlon IV; the <b>ULTIMATE</b> PC processor
 
Lately I have been posting about my new find on several OC websites. People are very skeptical so I am offering you a challange. I did it so can you. I have OC'd a Duron 750MHz/100MHzFSB to 1GHz/133MHzFSB without changing the CPU multiplier, the motherboards multiplier or the MB's FSB. The kicker is, it is running rock solid on a crappy MB (Shuttle AK12A) and I only paid $79.00 for both the CPU & MB as a combo, on sale at Fry's Discount Electronics in Dallas, TX. I bought several of them and each does the same and each one is rock solid stable. Check out my website, pics and benchmarks to see how I did it. Then try it, hell it's cheap enough :) Keep on clockin' !!!....

http://sduanes.freewebspace.com/
 
I plan to use cheap mobo with Duron750 and overclock it with the L bridges. VID-s(L7) and FID-s(L6,L3,L4) I have, but L1 combinations are unknown to me, are they needed for multiplier setting? Does anybody know where I can find them?
 
Supposedly, according to Tom's Hardware Guide review on the bridges of an AMD Duron, Athlon and Tbird. The L1 bridge is just for unlocking the multiplier, but I have seen arguments on this. Others say they have, or have seen AMD's with the L1 bridges already connected, so there for, the CPU multiplier should be unlocked. In my opinion no one really knows but AMD. All I did was unlock the L7 and it jump my FSB to 133MHz as default for my MB. I have not had the chance to buy a more expensive board such as an ABIT or ASUS that would have the multiplier settings. Will here soon tho. I'm just happy with the 1GHz Duron running rock solid stable, would like to play a bit more tho. 😛 ooooohhh ABIT..... aaaaahhh ASUS........ Anyways kEeP on ClOcKiN'
 
This is an old post, but I am working with old parts at the moment...

I have a Duron 750, and can this sucker handle a 133fsb... I would be more inclined, even if it can, to lower the multiplier and be content at around 900MHz... but the bus at 133 would be good for my computer...

I would be using a stock heatsink/fan that came with an XP2400...



<font color=red><b>To reign is worth ambition though in Hell:
Better to reign in Hell, than serve in Heav'n.</b></font color=red>
John Milton, <i>Paradise Lost</i>, II 262-263
 
Titanian & B_Man,

L7s determine the default voltage for Thunderbird and Spitfire Durons.

Here's a Tbird/Spitfire painting guide (wait for the overlay).

<A HREF="http://www.ocinside.de/go_e.html?/html/workshop/socketa/socketa_resistors.html" target="_new">http://www.ocinside.de/go_e.html?/html/workshop/socketa/socketa_resistors.html</A>

Palomino, Morgan Duron, Thoroughbred, and Barton have their default voltages set with the L11 bridges. I'm not sure what bridges Applebreds and Thortons use for voltage. However they and Barton are all now multiplier locked.

Here's a painting guide for Palomino/Morgan (again, wait for the overlay)

<A HREF="http://www.ocinside.de/index_e.html?/html/workshop/socketa/xp_painting.html" target="_new">http://www.ocinside.de/index_e.html?/html/workshop/socketa/xp_painting.html</A>

and here is a painting guide for Thoroughbred and Barton (the earlier unlocked ones)

<A HREF="http://www.ocinside.de/go_e.html?/html/workshop/socketa/tbred_painting.html" target="_new">http://www.ocinside.de/go_e.html?/html/workshop/socketa/tbred_painting.html</A>

Go to the <A HREF="http://www.ocinside.de/" target="_new">OCInside.de</A> workshop page for more guides.


Titanian,

The best I could do with my Duron 600 (AKBA 0025) is 150 mhz (my PC150 and PC133 memory is the limitation) but it would only run at 7X, 1050 Mhz, at that FSB.

The best stable overclock I achieved was 8 x 139mhz = 1112 Mhz.

I only used it for about a week while testing. (I thought it was a dead processor but cleaning and redoing the L7 bridges revived it). During my short test I didn't have any problems, gaming and browsing.

<b>addition</b>
Your XP2400+ cooler should be fine. However, I found the Duron 600 @1112 Mhz ran a lot hotter than my Tbred XP1700+ @2100 Mhz (52 C vs 42 C) using the same aftermarket cooler (GlacialTech Igloo 2500 non-Pro). Of course, I was pushing the Duron to 2.05 volts.

<b>56K, slow and steady does not win the race on internet!</b><P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1><EM>Edited by phsstpok on 01/28/04 10:47 AM.</EM></FONT></P>
 
You had your Duron at 150fsb! Wow, I hope I can get mine stable at 133fsb... Did you feel lucky with your cpu or when you were playing with it, did you find other people reporting the same type of bus speeds?

I would be very happy with 133x7=933MHz... I have connected the bridges to unlock this cpu a year ago (odd; only one bridge was unlocked), but the the board I was using did not offer multiplier changes, so I truly do not know if it worked... the board I am using now does... does it matter what type of led I use... small for sure but #2 or what?

And yes, the ocinside site rocks... there is no way I could mod my cpu socket to run a Barton at 16.5x134 without that site!

<font color=red><b>To reign is worth ambition though in Hell:
Better to reign in Hell, than serve in Heav'n.</b></font color=red>
John Milton, <i>Paradise Lost</i>, II 262-263
 
I've heard of higher than 150 with Spitfire but it was rare. I wouldn't say I was lucky. However, you have to remember in the early days of Spitfire we had these 60mm heatsinks which weren't very good by today's standards. We also had motherboards that though they could get above 133 Mhz the best common memory was PC150 SDRAM which was fairly expensive. Without it you couldn't reach 150 Mhz. By the time DDR mobos were out many people had dropped Spitfire in favor of inexpensive Thunderbirds. Plus the only overclocking DDR motherboards in the beggining had the VIA KT266 chipset (not KT266A). There was no guarantee that you could reach 150 Mhz.

KT266A started changing things. I think some people had good results bringing Durons beyond 150 Mhz FSB beginning with the Abit KR7A mobo. I want to say 170 Mhz was the tops but I'm not sure.


I never even tried my 3-year old Duron at anything above 106 Mhz FSB until it seemingly died in my nephew's computer (my old Abit KT7). I gave him my Thunderbird and started testing the Duron. (This was about 6 months ago). To my surprise it came back to life and with my better heatsink I topped my Duron's old overclock of 1007 Mhz by hitting the 1112 Mhz I mentioned.

As for which pencil to use, my Duron 600 was apparently an engineering sample because the L1 bridges were never cut so I never needed the pencil trick. However, with a Thunderbird I used a #2 pencil. I not only drew the lines but I scraped graphite into the gaps and placed tape over the L1 bridges. This generally held up for about 8 months before I had to redo.

I tried automotive defogger repair paint but it flaked off even faster so I went back to the pencil trick.

<b>56K, slow and steady does not win the race on internet!</b>
 
so, can pencil lead on a cpu cause it not to post? I get no beeps like it is a ram or video card problem, but the fans turn and the lights come on, but this sucker will not post... I have removed the board, tried different sets of screws, and still the same thing...

the board is rated pc2100, and I am using pc2700 ram in it...

<font color=red><b>To reign is worth ambition though in Hell:
Better to reign in Hell, than serve in Heav'n.</b></font color=red>
John Milton, <i>Paradise Lost</i>, II 262-263
 
Did you clear CMOS memory?

There are several things that would make it not POST.

1) If you cross connect the bridges it won't POST. Not sure if you would get the CPU not workable alert or not.

Remember, if the L1 bridges look like this

L1 .::::

you want them to look like this

L1 .||||

2) Similarly, if you mis-connect the L3, L4, and/or L6 bridges, no POST.

3) Not sure what would happen if you cross-connect the L7 bridges.


4) If you overclock the CPU but the default voltage (L7 bridge setting) is too low it won't POST, no beeps.

If you are running FSB at 133 Mhz and are still using the default mulitplier (7.5x) then you would be overclocking to 1000 Mhz. It won't POST this speed at default voltage (at least mine wouldn't).

I'd bump it to the max, 1.85 volt. Closing each of the L7 bridges will give 1.85 volt

5) If you just plain overclock too high same thing.


I'm not sure what you have already done. If you can't find the problem this is what I would do.

First cleanup the CPU. You can use isopropyl alcohol (I prefer the stuff from the hardware store over rubbing alcohol) to clean up the pencil lead. Dry it off good. See if it still works at default speeds

Now for the quick test overclock. Close each of the L7 bridges giving you 1.85 volt. Leave the L3, L4, L6 bridges at default. Test it at default FSB (100 Mhz). Next, set your FSB to 133 Mhz. It should still POST. (It might not be stable but it should POST).

If it is stable and you have temps below 50 degrees then you are done. (This is a ballbark figure based on my own experience with Spitfire Duron. At 1007 Mhz my Duron was perfectly stable up to 52 degrees. I could actually adjust room temp and affect stability of my computer. LOL!!! Your mileage may vary).

If it is not stable then you might want a lower multiplier. Modifying the L3, L4, L6 bridges is a pain in the butt because it involves cutting bridges and because the multiplier bits are wired in pairs for each bit (one connected and one disconnected for bit state HIGH and vice versa for bit state LOW). There are 5 pairs on a Thunderbird but only 4 pairs on a Duron.

Wiremods seem easier but I'm not sure they are exactly the same for Spitfire/Thunderbird as they are for Tbred/early Barton/early Applebred. I think they're the same. I've just never done it with the earlier processors.

One thing, wire mods require your processor to be unlocked so the L1 bridges must be connected.

(I might do a quick test, just for your sake. I've still got the Duron sitting here).



<b>56K, slow and steady does not win the race on internet!</b>
 
I figured out this morning looking at a diagram online that I connected the L6 bridges... not the L1 ones... Can you say Noob mistake... I might just lower the multiplier to 7 using a wire mod, and then try to get 133fsb... (but actually getting the L1 bridges crossed with lead seems best, so I do not have to take the cpu off again) I can't believe I did that... I think I was careless because I do not care that much about my old duron... but still... I hope I didn't fry anything...

Thanks for the long responce...

<font color=red><b>To reign is worth ambition though in Hell:
Better to reign in Hell, than serve in Heav'n.</b></font color=red>
John Milton, <i>Paradise Lost</i>, II 262-263
 
AFAIK there is no pencil mod mistake with a Spitfire/Thunderbird that is irreversible as long as you can remove the graphite. The bridge circuits are buffered.

It's not like the Tbred/Bartons/etc in which you can get conductive material stuck in the substrates.

If this is any consolation to you, I haven't been able to get the Duron to work with just wire mods (multiplier). My Duron still seems to refuse the pencil trick on the L7 bridges and I misplaced my socket pinout list/diagram for
voltage mods.

I'm lucky if don't destroy something. I seem to have some form of dislexia when it comes to wiring diagrams.

<b>56K, slow and steady does not win the race on internet!</b>
 
That is good to know... I hope it works when I get home...

<font color=red><b>To reign is worth ambition though in Hell:
Better to reign in Hell, than serve in Heav'n.</b></font color=red>
John Milton, <i>Paradise Lost</i>, II 262-263
 
Now I'm ticked off and stumped.

Duron works without wire mods. All multiplier available, up to 12x. Does not POST at 12.5X, too much overclock for Duron 600.

Duron does not POST with wire mods. Power but no beeps. Normal completion code, FF, on motherboard LED.

Tbred 1700+ works with the very same wire mods (in socket). Multiplier configured to 7X. Boots to 700 Mhz, 7 x100. Attempts to change multiplier in BIOS confirm that the mods are fully in place and working as the processor always boots to 7x regardless of BIOS setting. (This is what I would expect. Wiremods override BIOS settings).

Time to undo my L7 pencil tricks.

Stock the Duron should have the same default voltage as my Tbred, 1.5 volt. (I'm grasping at straws now). My motherboard allows me to force +0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4 volt, if necessary.

<b>56K, slow and steady does not win the race on internet!</b>
 
Are you thinking some boards are able to unlock Durons--like they do other, newer XP CPUs--without the pencil mod... or just that the wire mods do not work like it does with newer CPUs?

When I clean up my cpu, I do need to use the pencil trick on the L1 bridges, right?

BTW, I currently have a wire socket volt mod on a 1700+ getting it to 1.65V and running at a 195x9.5=1852 total speed and a wire socket multiplier mod on my Barton 1500+ getting it at 16.5x134=2211 total speed, so I have had success with the wire mods...

<font color=red><b>To reign is worth ambition though in Hell:
Better to reign in Hell, than serve in Heav'n.</b></font color=red>
John Milton, <i>Paradise Lost</i>, II 262-263
 
I was too quick to speak. The pinouts have to be the same therefore multiplier mods (no 8X multiplier bit Tbird/Spitfire) would be the same (but I can't figure out why its not working for my particular Duron, Grrrrr!)

Yes, you need the L1 bridges closed.

Wiremods don't unlock processors they just change the multipliers at the motherboard level. The L1 circuits still need to be closed for the processor to actually detect the new settings.

It's different with bridge mods. These actually change the defaults on the processor itself. The processors don't need to be unlocked in order for these mods to work.

Unfortunately, AMD not only started locking the processors, (no functional L1 circuit) but also made it such that bridge multiplier mods don't work either. (That is, except for the recently discovered desktop XP to mobile XP mod).

<b>56K, slow and steady does not win the race on internet!</b>
 
Hmm... I have been reading about all the supposed locked Bartons... I guess I am glad I have one from last spring... but I was hoping to buy another one not too far down the road...

<font color=red><b>To reign is worth ambition though in Hell:
Better to reign in Hell, than serve in Heav'n.</b></font color=red>
John Milton, <i>Paradise Lost</i>, II 262-263
 
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