External "UPS" battery advice

[a cooperator]

Hi,

But in short, an UPS is essentially a battery .
An external battery that you plug into the outlet, then plug the computer to it. When there is electrical supply it charges its internal batteries and while also powering the computer. When power goes out, it uses the battery to continue providing power the computer for a few minutes. While this energy is not enough for continuing normal work, it's sufficient to let you save whatever you're doing and properly shut the system down. The computer continues receiving power even after the blackout.

Basically, the whole city goes dark but your computer will live for 10/15 minutes more, and in that time you can shut down everything as it should instead of being abruptly powered off.

My questions are :

1- I know "UPS" battery is plugged into the outlet and plug the computer to it. When there is electrical supply it charges its internal batteries and while also powering the computer. So, the External "UPS" battery will be always connected to outlet regardless of there is electrical supply or not(i.e. if the electricity was cut off and gone on again, then no need to manually unplug the UPS from the outlet, and let the computer plugged to outlet) .

2- I see that the largest UPS is 865 Watts /1500 VA.
How long can a larger UPS battery be lasting until it drains its power/charge while it is disconnected from the outlet, or there is no electrical supply, and while also powering one or more devices draining the power of that UPS?

 

[a cooperator]

1 - If configured properly, the UPS shouldn't power up until the battery is charged at 50% or more. You obviously don't understand how a UPS works; depleted batteries can't provide backup until they are partially recharged and they can provide the expected backup time only once the recharge is complete (several hours).

2 - Because it makes a huge difference.

3 - Don't you know what PSU you have in the system that you want to protect?

Thanks a lot,
I was told before by a member here that UPS will automatically switch to battery power when outlet line power outage occurs.
So, presume I have a computer with 400W, and I plugged in and lose power, then the UPS will automatically begin supplying battery power to the computer until either it runs out of battery or the line power comes back and it switches to line power again. Once back on line power it will automatically begin charging the battery.

So, whatever PSU I use as long as my computer is rated with 400W, then if my computer requires a power of 400W to be running, so how many hours will UPS last to supply a 100Ahr battery power to the computer even it runs out of battery or line power comes back.

 

[GhislainG]

What answer would make you happy? Check the load line at https://www.cyberpowersystems.com/products/ups/intelligent-lcd/cp1500avrlcd It runs for 15 minutes with an 8.5Ah battery. In theory that UPS should run for 15x100/8.5=176 minutes. Will it really run for that long? I don't think so, but 12 batteries in parallel should get it to run for quite a long time. Recharging them probably would be an issue because that UPS isn't designed to handle so many batteries. Supplying up to 100A to a UPS designed for 8.5A could be a real concern. Why don't you buy an industrial UPS that includes a 100Ah battery pack? It will be quite large, but it will meet your requirements and be safe.

 

[a cooperator]

1 - If configured properly, the UPS shouldn't power up until the battery is charged at 50% or more. You obviously don't understand how a UPS works; depleted batteries can't provide backup until they are partially recharged and they can provide the expected backup time only once the recharge is complete (several hours).

2 - Because it makes a huge difference.

3 - Don't you know what PSU you have in the system that you want to protect?

Thanks a lot,
I have recently purchased a Home UPS (Su-Kam brand) with a 1600W and 24V(two batteries). The batteries are tubular(Japston brand) with 200Ah. The issue is that LED indicating to charging batteries never got stable(it always glows, which indicates that batteries are still charging) although the period of charging reached to 29 hours. I see that UPS doesn't show that batteries got fully-charged at all(LED indicating to charging doesn't continuously glows, however,it always glows with no stability ) although the UPS shows that batteries are charging(LED glows with no stability), and UPS is not in Backup mode and the mains power is available


I have a problem with it, which the charging LED is intermediately glowing although the UPS is not on Backup mode, and the main is available and UPS charges the batteries. However, the issue is that the LED indicating to charging battery LED and doesn't glow continuously( the LED never shows a stable glow), which means that batteries got fully charged, although the period of charging has been 28 hours.
The DIP switch setting is as follows: All Dip switch are at P 2.
I have read the UPS manual included, but there is no description to how to DIP switch can be setup. It is only said that when all Dip switch are at P 1, then the UPS is in default settings. But DIP switch are at P 2. (Screen shot below)

I know that DIP switch:
an arrangement of switches in a dual in-line package used to select the operating mode of a device such as a printer.

 

[GhislainG]

Did you read the manual? You wrote that you bought tubular batteries; if so, then switch 5 has to be at P1 (Tubular). Actually all switches should be at P1 with the batteries that you bought. My understanding of the manual is that you limit the charging current to 2.5A instead of 15A; it will certainly take a lot of time to charge the batteries (more than 29 hours). You could certainly contact the manufacturer to double-check the documentation.

 

[a cooperator]

Did you read the manual? You wrote that you bought tubular batteries; if so, then switch 5 has to be at P1 (Tubular). Actually all switches should be at P1 with the batteries that you bought. My understanding of the manual is that you limit the charging current to 2.5A instead of 15A; it will certainly take a lot of time to charge the batteries (more than 29 hours). You could certainly contact the manufacturer to double-check the documentation.

Thanks a lot,
Yes, I have tubular batteries, and I read the manual. But there is no detailed description about the feature of each switch, it is only said that if all dip switches are at P1 then default settings is 15 A charging in tubular mode, and W-UPs and Low batter cut 22V. this is said in the DIP switches settings, I hope you see the screen shot below.

Secondly: Have you seen my previous screen shot about the rear side of my UPS?

Thirdly: The charging time took more than 35 hours, and the batteries didn't get fully charged since the LED still glows. However, after 35 hours of charging time, a main outage occured. So, You now recommend to put all DIP switches at P1. Or, only the switch 5 has to be at P1 (Tubular)?

 

[GhislainG]

I had to watch the videos at http://sukamfalcon.com/sukam-falcon-plus/ that provide good info like "If you want to use the Falcon+ with a small battery of 18ah, set the dip switch on the back panel to 2.5 amps." I corrected my previous reply below as I made a mistake about the voltage:

SW1, SW2 and SW3 at P1 (OFF) = 15A charging (recommended for 150 and 200 Ah batteries)
SW1 at P1 (OFF), SW2 and SW3 at P2 (ON) = 2.5A
SW2 at P1 (OFF), SW1 and SW3 at P2 (ON) = 5A
SW3 at P1 (OFF), SW1 and SW2 at P2 (ON) = 10A

SW4 at P1 = 22V battery reserve (set it to P2 if you want to let the batteries discharge until their voltage drops to 21V)

SW5 at P1 = Tubular batteries (the type that you have)

SW6 at P1 = W-UPS, at P2 = UPS (you probably want it at P2 for a PC)

The battery symbol glows continuously when the batteries are charged.

 

[a cooperator]

I had to watch the videos at http://sukamfalcon.com/sukam-falcon-plus/ that provide good info like "If you want to use the Falcon+ with a small battery of 18ah, set the dip switch on the back panel to 2.5 amps." I corrected my previous reply below as I made a mistake about the voltage:

SW1, SW2 and SW3 at P1 (OFF) = 15A charging (recommended for 150 and 200 Ah batteries)
SW1 at P1 (OFF), SW2 and SW3 at P2 (ON) = 2.5A
SW2 at P1 (OFF), SW1 and SW3 at P2 (ON) = 5A
SW3 at P1 (OFF), SW1 and SW2 at P2 (ON) = 10A

SW4 at P1 = 22V battery reserve (set it to P2 if you want to let the batteries discharge until their voltage drops to 21V)

SW5 at P1 = Tubular batteries (the type that you have)

SW6 at P1 = W-UPS, at P2 = UPS (you probably want it at P2 for a PC)

The battery symbol glows continuously when the batteries are charged.

Thanks a lot,

But in the manual, included with my UPS, it is only said "if all dip switches are at P1 then default settings is 15 A charging in tubular mode, and W-UPs and Low batter cut 22V."
SW6 at P1 W-UPS AND at P2 UPS
SW5 at P1 Tubular AND at P2 LA
SW4 at P1 BLC(22V) AND at P2 BLC(21V)
SW3 at P1 15A AND at P2 10A(SW1&2 OFF)
SW2 at P1 15A AND at P2 5A(SW1 OFF)
SW1 at P1 15A AND at P2 2.5A
You said:
SW1, SW2 and SW3 at P1 (OFF) = 15A charging (recommended for 150 and 200 Ah batteries)
SW1 at P1 (OFF), SW2 and SW3 at P2 (ON) = 2.5A
SW2 at P1 (OFF), SW1 and SW3 at P2 (ON) = 5A
SW3 at P1 (OFF), SW1 and SW2 at P2 (ON) = 10A

1- Then, if SW1, SW2 and SW3 are at P1(OFF) - 15A charging((recommended for 150 and 200 Ah batteries), and it is said 'OFF'. I think you meant 'ON' when SW1, SW2, and SW3 are at P1, Or otherwise, how to get 15A charging if I am going to be setting SW1, SW2 and WS3 at P1?

2- So, should I set all dip switches at P1 or Or I should only set SW1, SW2, and SW3 at P1 to get 15A charging? I think it is enough to set one of SW1, SW2 or SW3 to P1 to get 15A charging since set all SW1, SW2, and SW3 to P1 will get 15A*3 = 45A charging.

3- Should I set the SW5 at P1 although there is no charging current specified to this switch?

4- You recommend to set SW4 to P2 or to P1 ?

5- You recommend to set SW6 to P1 = W-UPS, or to P2 = UPS? What you mean with "you probably want it at P2 for a PC". You mean if I want to plug a PC via the power supply coming from the UPS, then I should set SW6 to P2?

6- When I've purchased my UPS, I noticed that all DIP switches are at P2, and during these settings, when I turned on my Sharp TV on UPS backup, then I heard a beep( short high sound) coming from the UPS, and it lasted for 2 seconds. When I turned the TV off, and turned it on again, I have NOT heard that beep again. Why?

7- You have NOT made any mistake, and you haven't talked about voltage in your previous reply. So, you said " I corrected my previous reply below as I made a mistake about the voltage:"

8- Yes, this is true "The battery symbol glows continuously when the batteries are charged.". But when all DIP switches are at P2, the battery symbol didn't glow continuously to let me understand that the batteries got fully charged although the time of charging took 40 hours and it might be still so even after a lot of charging time. It these settings keep for a long time, the batteries 200Ah would be damaged since the current charging set is low(2.5A)

 

[GhislainG]

1. In the video it shows a switch where position 2 is ON. Yours may be different, but I can't see it in the picture because you kept the cover on. SW1, SW2 and SW3 need to be set at P1 for 15A charging; that's demonstrated in the video.

2. I alreqady explained how the switches need to be set for 2.5, 5, 10 and 15A charging; the video also clearly shows that info.

3. SW5 has nothing to do with charging current; it determines the battery type that you connected to the unit. You wrote they are tubular; therefore you have to select Tubular.

4. It's up to you; the UPS will supply power for a longer period if set to 21V, but it will also take longer to recharge the batteries. This one is your choice, not mine. Personally I'd set it to 22V.

5. The manufacturer recommends UPS when connecting a PC or similar electronics to it, but again it's up to you to follow or ignore the recommendations.

6. Read the manual and if it that info isn't provided, then contact the manufacturer. It may be normal on the first power-up.

7. I didn't explain all possibilities (2.5, 5, 10 and 15 amps charging).

8. 2.5A charging won't damage the batteries, but it takes a lot of time to charge them.

 

[a cooperator]

1- In the video it shows a switch where position 2 is ON. Yours may be different, but I can't see it in the picture because you kept the cover on. SW1, SW2 and SW3 need to be set at P1 for 15A charging; that's demonstrated in the video.

Thanks a lot,
I have removed the cover of DIP switches, and taken another image. However, the 'ON' is only when the SW1 and SW2 are set to P2. I hope you could see my screen shot below. my free image-hosting Dropbox account opened so slowly that I could hardly upload and linked the image link to this forum. ('ON' is written only in front of the SW1 and SW2 and while at P2)

SW1, SW2 and SW3 at P1 (OFF) = 15A charging (recommended for 150 and 200 Ah batteries)
SW1 at P1 (OFF), SW2 and SW3 at P2 (ON) = 2.5A
SW2 at P1 (OFF), SW1 and SW3 at P2 (ON) = 5A
SW3 at P1 (OFF), SW1 and SW2 at P2 (ON) = 10A

In my manual included to my Su-Kam UPS(1600W), it is said:
SW3 at P1 15A AND at P2 10A(SW1&2 OFF)
SW2 at P1 15A AND at P2 5A(SW1 OFF)
SW1 at P1 15A AND at P2 2.5A

According to what is said above:
1- If I should set switches(SW1, SW2, and SW3) to P1 to get 15A charging, then should I set all of them (SW1, SW2, SW3) to P1. Why do I need to set all of them(SW1, SW2, and SW3) to P1 to get 15A charging as long as "15A" is written in the front of each of SW1, SW2, and SW3 if each of them(SW1, SW2, SW3) is set to P1. It is enough to set one of them (either SW1, or SW2, or SW3) to P1 to get 15A charging.

2- Also, "10A" is written in the front of SW3 if it is set at P2. And "5A" is written in the front of SW2 if it is set at P2. And "2.5A" is written in the front of SW1 if it is set at P2. So, If I need 10A charging, I think I sould set SW3 to P2. However, where should I set SW1 and SW2.
Also, if I want to get 5A charging, I think I should set SW2 to P2. However, where to set SW3, and SW1. Also, if I want to get 2.5A charging, I need to set SW1 to P2. However, where to set SW2 and SW3.

SW1, SW2 and SW3 need to be set at P1 for 15A charging; that's demonstrated in the video.

1- I have tried setting all DIP switches(SW1,2,3,4,5,6) to P1 instead of P2. Then, I tried turning on the the main power supply to let UPS receive the main power supply to begin recharging the batteries. However, although the SW1, SW2, and SW3 are set to P1(i.e.15A charging is enabled), and a lot of time passed while batteries are charged (more than 12 hours), the battery symbol hasn't glowed continuously which means the batteries are still charged by UPS. Do you think there is a manufacturing defect in the UPS. NOTE: Even the battery symbol never stayed continually, when trying to let my hose be powered by UPS power when an outage occurs, the UPS notifies with "a battery low" after about 1:20 where my house consumed about 1118W.
If my calculation below is correct, then I think battery with 200Ah and UPS with 24V Sysetm, and with Active Power(1280W) should last 4 hours lighting my hose. Where there are 24 lamps lit, each of which needs 40W(40*24=960W), and one TV with 78W. And 2 fans(I don't know how much power do they need? let me say 40W, so 2fans *40 = 80W).
So, my house requires (960W+ 78W+80W)= 1118W. ~
So, if I will calculate how Ampere is required per hour, then 1118W/24V = 47 Ah
So, 200Ah/47Ah = 4 hours.


2- Do you think the battery symbol didn't glow contentiously due to sense device connected in between UPS and battery? I have connected the sense device cable to the side of one battery(NOT on the top of it), and then the other end of in the Temp.Sns port on the rear of UPS. So, do you think that time of charging batteries took a lot of time due to this sense.
Also, you think that the location of sense device on the battery is suitable. (Screen shot below)

4. It's up to you; the UPS will supply power for a longer period if set to 21V, but it will also take longer to recharge the batteries. This one is your choice, not mine. Personally I'd set it to 22V.

Yes, but if the SW4 is set to P2 (22V battery reserve) for a long time, you don't think the battery will be accustomed to discharge until their voltage drops to 22V). So, if reset it to P2, the battery will still discharge until their voltage drops to 22V)?

The manufacturer recommends UPS when connecting a PC or similar electronics to it, but again it's up to you to follow or ignore the recommendations.

But I will not always connect a PC or similar electronics to UPS. Sometimes, I want to connect PC, Router, Mobile phone to UPS. However, almost most time, I only turn on TVs and lambs and fans on UPS. As a result, I will need to set the SW6 to P2 = UPS whenever I want to connect a PC or similar electronics, and then reset it to P1 if I don't? Then, maybe I will be shocked with the electricity by accident due to a lot of switchings to done by me.

Read the manual and if it that info isn't provided, then contact the manufacturer. It may be normal on the first power-up.

The TV has a power of 78W, and when turning on that TV on UPS power, then I hear a beep for a short time. That beep can be heard again if I turned off the TV, and waited for about 10 minutes, and then turned it on again, I heard that beep again. It isn't on the first power-up, but I was expecting so. However, today, I tried turning it ON/OFF and then waited for about 10 minutes, and then turned it back ON, and I heard that beep again. It may be normal, since there is no effect so far, but it is NOT on the first power-up, an it is strange.
How could I contact the manufacturer?

 

[GhislainG]

Did you visit http://sukamfalcon.com/sukam-falcon-plus/; the phone number at http://sukamfalcon.com/buynow/ is 1800-102-7555; call them if you need help.

P1 (position 1) is OFF and P2 (position 2) is ON; that applies to all switches on that block.

I already wrote the switch positions for all 4 charging possibilities and they are the same in the video that you probably haven't yet watched.

You calculate the power based on 100% efficiency instead of the more normal 60% and you don't take into account that your unit will shutdown when the battery voltage drops to 22V or 21V (no matter the setting, batteries will charge to 24V). Based on your requirements, set it to W-UPS and leave it alone.

Please contact the manufacturer or the store to get support; if the unit is defective, then it will be replaced.

 

[a cooperator]

Did you visit http://sukamfalcon.com/sukam-falcon-plus/; the phone number at http://sukamfalcon.com/buynow/ is 1800-102-7555; call them if you need help.

P1 (position 1) is OFF and P2 (position 2) is ON; that applies to all switches on that block.

Thanks a lot,

So, when I set the SW1, SW2, SW3 to P1, I would get 15A charging which is recommended to 200A, and 150A? If so, then when I had done that, I noticed that about 9 hours passed while battery symbol still glow intermittently. And in each outage occurs, and without using the UPS power, the battery symbol still glow intermittently when the mains supply returns back. I noticed that the battery symole only glow continously after about 12 hours of charging.
I already wrote the switch positions for all 4 charging possibilities and they are the same in the video that you probably haven't yet watched.

I already wrote the switch positions for all 4 charging possibilities and they are the same in the video that you probably haven't yet watched

However, why will I need to set all SW1, SW2, and SW3 to P1 to get 15A charging, I think it is enough to set one of them as long as in my image I posted before there is 15A typed/written in front of each of SW1, SW2 and SW3 while they are set to P1?

Please contact the manufacturer or the store to get support; if the unit is defective, then it will be replaced.

Even if my unit is defective, then no replacement would be since I purchased my unit from Yemen, and the retailer doesn't give warranty for units except for units not working. My unit is working, but the charging time takes a long time(12hours or more even if the battery is not fully-discharged). Also, when turning a Sharp TV(78W) while power by UPS, there is beep coming out from the UPS. Do you think these things mean the unit is defective?????

 

[GhislainG]

Then it takes 12 hours to charge the batteries when using 15A; that's normal for the batteries that you bought. It's 15A charging ONLY when all 3 switches are OFF; any other combination is less than 15A. I already explained that as does the video.

 

[a cooperator]

Then it takes 12 hours to charge the batteries when using 15A; that's normal for the batteries that you bought.

Thanks a lot,
1- Yes, it takes about 12 hours to recharge the battery, but this is always even if the UPS doesn't discharge its voltage. Sometimes, I noticed that battery symbol glows continuously(battery got fully charged), and while I never use the UPS backup(power) when outage occurs. So, when the main power supply returns back I noticed that battery symbol glows intermittently although the UPS doesn't work on backup. After about 8 or 12 hours, the battery glows continuously.

2-

"It's 15A charging ONLY when all 3 switches are OFF; any other combination is less than 15A. I already explained that as does the video.".

However, you didn't say how to get 10A or 5A? You only said if all SW1, and SW2, and SW3 are at P1, then 15A. And when all SW1,2, and 3 are at P2, then it is 2.5A.''

3- Even if my unit is defective, then no replacement would be since I purchased my unit from Yemen, and the retailer doesn't give warranty for units except for units not working. My unit is working, but the charging time takes a long time(12hours or more even if the battery is not fully-discharged). Also, when turning a Sharp TV(78W) while power by UPS, there is beep coming out from the UPS. Do you think these things mean the unit is defective?????

4- Why you haven't replied to where to fasten the sense device on the battery? Have you seen my screen shot of sense device location posted before?

5- While battery is charging, there is a sound coming out from the battery. That sound looks like the sound of water while boiling.

6- I put the unit(UPS) and batter on pole of two iron pipes in a store where there is no incoming air, so do you think this a good place in the summer.

 

[GhislainG]

1. It's an inverter, not a UPS like most of us use.
2. I did:
SW1 at P1 (OFF), SW2 and SW3 at P2 (ON) = 2.5A
SW2 at P1 (OFF), SW1 and SW3 at P2 (ON) = 5A
SW3 at P1 (OFF), SW1 and SW2 at P2 (ON) = 10Aà
Once again watch the video, but why wouldn't you follow the recommendation to set it at 15A?
3. A long charging time is normal. The beep doesn't mean that it's defective, but is it in W-UPS or UPS mode?
4. Connect it as per the manual; I have no clue what that sense device is for.
5. That most likely is normal with that type of battery; I never bothered to listen to a battery being recharged.
6. You want to keep it as cool as possible, but that unit compensates for higher than normal temperatures. High temperatures aren't good for batteries.

 

[a cooperator]

3. A long charging time is normal. The beep doesn't mean that it's defective, but is it in W-UPS or UPS mode?

It is heard in W-UPS and UPS mode. When turning on the TV for the first time while on UPS power, there is a sound, and then turning it off back, and turning it on without waiting, then no sound heard.

4. Connect it as per the manual; I have no clue what that sense device is for.

It is said that it is used to maintain the battery to not be overload charged and monitor the temperature of battery while charging. In the manual, it is only said where to install/plug it in the rear side of the UPS. However, it isn't stated clearly where to plug/install on the battery.
The sense device location diagram on the battery is stated in the manual(have a look at this image):

6. You want to keep it as cool as possible, but that unit compensates for higher than normal temperatures. High temperatures aren't good for batteries.

That store my UPS and batteries are kept in is away from the sunrise. But there is no air coming.


Finally: Yes, but if the SW4 is set to P1 (22V battery reserve) which will still recharge until its voltage drops 22V and kept so for a long time, you don't think the battery will be accustomed to discharge until its voltage drops to 22V). So, if reset it back to P2, the battery will still discharge until their voltage drops to 22V, and will not discharge until 21V)?

 

[GhislainG]

I'd presume your TV draws a lot of power when you turn it on; check the specs.

The sensor connects to the plug below the switch block (TEMP. SNS.) and it should be on top of a battery to monitor its temperature; the documentation shows that it should be between the + and - terminals on a battery. Is it where you positioned it?

A battery doesn't get accustomed to anything; it charges up to its maximum and it could discharge until its completely dead (not likely to happen with your unit until they are defective since you can set the minimum voltage to 22V or 21V). Regardless of SW4, it will recharge until the voltage is 24V.

 

[a cooperator]

I'd presume your TV draws a lot of power when you turn it on; check the specs.

The sensor connects to the plug below the switch block (TEMP. SNS.) and it should be on top of a battery to monitor its temperature; the documentation shows that it should be between the + and - terminals on a battery. Is it where you positioned it?

A battery doesn't get accustomed to anything; it charges up to its maximum and it could discharge until its completely dead (not likely to happen with your unit until they are defective since you can set the minimum voltage to 22V or 21V). Regardless of SW4, it will recharge until the voltage is 24V.

Thanks a lot, when I looked at the rear side of my TV, I noticed that there is 78W is written there. So, I think it needs 78W. However, as said before, the beep is heard in the first start. And also, it is heard when turning it off, and then waiting for a while(about 5 minutes or more), and then turning it on again. However, when turning it off, and turning it on without waiting, so no beep is heard. Anyway, you think it will not damage my UPS if it continues to act such a way?

For the sense device, I didn't install on the top of the battery as you said. However, it is on the side of one battery.(screen shot posted before, couldn't you have seen it, could you?)

 

[GhislainG]

Test the TV in W-UPS mode, but it most likely draws more than 78W at power-up.

The thermal sensor should be installed where the battery is the warmest; that should be at its top.

 

[a cooperator]

Test the TV in W-UPS mode, but it most likely draws more than 78W at power-up.

Thanks a lot,

1- I tried testing the TV in W-UPS mode, and the same behavior. Anyway, I only want to be in peace of mind however that beep happens, my UPS will not be damaged for that behavior or what causes that behavior(TV)?

You calculate the power based on 100% efficiency instead of the more normal 60% and you don't take into account that your unit will shutdown when the battery voltage drops to 22V or 21V (no matter the setting, batteries will charge to 24V). Based on your requirements, set it to W-UPS and leave it alone

Yes, I set my unit to discharge the battery until it drops the to the 22V. And when the batteries(200Ah) got fully charaged. Then, I tried powering my house on UPS power, and turned on:
27 lamps , each of which needs 40W(40*27=1080W), and one TV with 78W. And 3 fans(I don't know how much power do they need, let say each of them needs 20W. so 4fans *40 = 160W).), and three little range hoods in bathrooms, which I don't know how much power they need, let me say each needs 20W. So, 20*3=60).
So, my house requires (1080W+ 78W+160W+60)= 1378W.
So, if I will calculate how Ampere is required per hour, then 1378W/24V = 57.4 Ah
So, 200Ah/57.4Ah = 3.4 hours.

However, I noticed that UPS notified by a beep telling me that the battery was low after about 2 hours.. So, are my unit(UPS, and batteries) normal, and I shouldn't be worried about them?. I think battery(200Ah) and UPS(24V, 1600W) powering a house with a maximum power of (1378W) for 2 hours would be very little time.

 

[GhislainG]

Contact the manufacturer; they know more than anyone else about that unit.

Your UPS stops providing power once the batteries are at 22V; use 21V for a longer period. Since the efficiency probably is approximately 60% (the specs don't mention it), then 2 hours is very good. If you need more, then you should consider a generator. Do you really need to power 27 lamps when a power outage occurs?

 

[a cooperator]

Contact the manufacturer; they know more than anyone else about that unit.

Your UPS stops providing power once the batteries are at 22V; use 21V for a longer period. Since the efficiency probably is approximately 60% (the specs don't mention it), then 2 hours is very good. If you need more, then you should consider a generator. Do you really need to power 27 lamps when a power outage occurs?

Of course, I don't need to power 27 lamps, however, I deliberately did that to see how long the 200Ah battery lasts powering my house. I set the batteries to discharge until its voltage drops to 22V). You think if I set it until voltage drops to 21V would make much difference.
NOTE: The UPS only notified with beep telling that batteries were low after two hours. However, UPS still provided powering my house, and when reducing the load by turning some lights, then the beep finished. Then, after about 10 minutes, the beep came again. I turned off some lights, then it finished, and so on. Until the UPS stopped providing power completely from the batteries.

 

[GhislainG]

21V will help, but you still need to carefully choose what needs to be powered on during a power outage. Watching TV with a couple lamps switched on will provide several hours of backup time.

 

[a cooperator]

21V will help, but you still need to carefully choose what needs to be powered on during a power outage. Watching TV with a couple lamps switched on will provide several hours of backup time.

Thanks a lot,
1- While the TV is powered through the main power supply line, then power outage occurred, then when switching to the UPS by switching the bottom inverter below(I don't know what do you call those inverters in the screen shot below) while the TV is still turned on, I don't hear any beep.

2- My knowledge with protecting the life of any battery for a long time is that I should let the battery be fully discharged, and then let it be recharged again. So, I had to switch many lamps during a power outage to let the battery be discharged its voltage fully before getting recharged again when mains is available.

Your UPS stops providing power once the batteries are at 22V; use 21V for a longer period. Since the efficiency probably is approximately 60% (the specs don't mention it)

3- As far as I know the voltage is not irrelevant to the power of a battery. Or otherwise, why is any battery power measured with Ampere per hour(for instance, 200Ah)? So, why do you repeat the voltage in each comment of yours. When anything(lamp, etc.) is powered via a battery power, then Ampere will be dropped from the battery power per an hour until its Ampere drops to 0 Ampere.

Regardless of SW4, it will recharge until the voltage is 24V.
Your UPS stops providing power once the batteries are at 22V; use 21V for a longer period.
You calculate the power based on 100% efficiency instead of the more normal 60% and you don't take into account that your unit will shutdown when the battery voltage drops to 22V or 21V (no matter the setting, batteries will charge to 24V)
SW4 at P1 = 22V battery reserve (set it to P2 if you want to let the batteries discharge until their voltage drops to 21V)

 

[GhislainG]

1. I don't know because we don't use inverters in North America.

2. I never heard of UPS batteries that have that requirement; your UPS allows discharging the batteries to 22V or 21V. While they can't be avoided, deep discharges are bad for standard UPS batteries. In other words, 22V should be better than 21V for the batteries.

3. Your UPS shuts down once the battery voltage drops to 22V or 21V (your choice). It doesn't care about amperes; it only cares about voltage. A 200Ah battery means that you can draw 10 amps for 20 hours from it.

As stated at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ampere_hour: An ampere hour is not a unit of energy. In a battery system, for example, accurate calculation of the energy delivered requires integration of the power delivered (product of instantaneous voltage and instantaneous current) over the discharge interval.[3] Generally, the battery voltage varies during discharge; an average value or nominal value may be used to approximate the integration of power.[4]

 

[a cooperator]

1. I don't know because we don't use inverters in North America.

2. I never heard of UPS batteries that have that requirement; your UPS allows discharging the batteries to 22V or 21V. While they can't be avoided, deep discharges are bad for standard UPS batteries. In other words, 22V should be better than 21V for the batteries.

3. Your UPS shuts down once the battery voltage drops to 22V or 21V (your choice). It doesn't care about amperes; it only cares about voltage. A 200Ah battery means that you can draw 10 amps for 20 hours from it.

As stated at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ampere_hour: An ampere hour is not a unit of energy. In a battery system, for example, accurate calculation of the energy delivered requires integration of the power delivered (product of instantaneous voltage and instantaneous current) over the discharge interval.[3] Generally, the battery voltage varies during discharge; an average value or nominal value may be used to approximate the integration of power.[4]

Hi again!
When powering my notebook(120W) on UPS power, I only found out that all lamps became flashing. When unplugging my notebook, and the lamps became back normal.
All DIP Switches of my Su-Kam UPS_1600W are setup to P1(Off).(Screen shot below)

You previously said:
"The manufacturer recommends UPS when connecting a PC or similar electronics to it, but again it's up to you to follow or ignore the recommendations."