Question Final PC Checklist

[N1njaDestr0yer]

I am looking to upgrade my PC (Upgrade = Build Brand New), But I was curious as to see If I picked the right parts, before I buy them

PCPP: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/YcdhC6

Also any tips on how to correctly install an AIO and maximize airflow, since I have never bought nor used an AIO before.... I know there is Youtube, but I feel like some of the "tutorials" are really out of date, or maybe it's just me..?

 

[Why_Me]

I promised myself I wouldn't take the bait and post on your build threads but like a sucker here I am. I don't know who's giving you advice on these builds but they obviously aren't doing you any favors. The Z690 chipset has an inferior DDR5 memory controller vs the Z790. Games take advantage of low latency RAM making CL40 about as bad as it gets. I've only used air cooling so I'm no help in the AIO dept. Now if this is a gaming build it's all about frames per second. Make these changes to your build if you don't want a sucky build in that budget range. And remember .. 500GB is way more than enough space for an O/S drive.

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: *Intel Core i7-13700 2.1 GHz 16-Core Processor ($349.99 @ Best Buy)
Motherboard: *MSI PRO Z790-A WIFI ATX LGA1700 Motherboard ($239.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: *G.Skill Trident Z5 RGB 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL36 Memory ($114.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: *Western Digital Black SN770 500 GB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($54.88 @ Amazon)
Storage: *Western Digital Black SN770 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($109.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: *MSI MPG A850G PCIE5 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($144.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $1014.83
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
*Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria
Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-04-29 23:38 EDT-0400

PRO Z790-A WIFI

PRO series motherboards tuned for better performance by 16 Duet Rail Power System, DDR5 memory, Lightning Gen5 PCIe, Pre-installed IO, Extended Heatsink, M.2 Shield Frozr, Wi-Fi 6E, 2.5G LAN, USB 3.2 Gen 2x2

www.msi.com

 

[N1njaDestr0yer]

I really don't want to get the the 13th gen + Z790 CPUs since I have a 13700k + Z790 + RTX 4070 Ti build planned after this, Just saving up for it

Is the 12900k really that bad? I thought It was pretty good, dated? Yes, I do understand how Gaming PCs tend to take advantage of lower RAM Speeds, but I wasn't sure why Intel made DDR5 compatible with 12th Gen CPUs, In the 1st place when DDR5 doesn't really work too well on a 12700k + 12900k

Am I really that much of a troll? I guess I've had my head stuck down a 2012/2013 rabbit hole of how i5 CPUs aren't worth it and i7s are much better.... And didn't want to change but I still can't wrap my head on how fast PC technology evolves in just a few months....

 

[Why_Me]

I really don't want to get the the 13th gen + Z790 CPUs since I have a 13700k + Z790 + RTX 4070 Ti build planned after this, Just saving up for it

Is the 12900k really that bad? I thought It was pretty good, dated? Yes, I do understand how Gaming PCs tend to take advantage of lower RAM Speeds, but I wasn't sure why Intel made DDR5 compatible with 12th Gen CPUs, In the 1st place when DDR5 doesn't really work too well on a 12700k + 12900k

Am I really that much of a troll? I guess I've had my head stuck down a 2012/2013 rabbit hole of how i5 CPUs aren't worth it and i7s are much better.... And didn't want to change but I still can't wrap my head on how fast PC technology evolves in just a few months....

Let's see if I have this correct. You plan on making a DDR5 build with older and inferior 12 gen technology that includes an RTX 4080 because you're saving up to make a 13 gen build later on with an RTX 4070 Ti. I knew this thread wouldn't disappoint ^^

 

[N1njaDestr0yer]

What about using an i9 12900k is bad? I know it's not the fastest and newest, but It's still a 16C + 24T totally much better than 4C + 8T of a 4770k

A 13900k is out of the question, way to expensive, for my budget

Any Better: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/XGt6k9 Or no?

 

[Why_Me]

What about using an i9 12900k is bad? I know it's not the fastest and newest, but It's still a 16C + 24T totally much better than 4C + 8T of a 4770k

A 13900k is out of the question, way to expensive, for my budget

I'm sorry but I must have missed the previous post that mentioned a i9 13900K. I'm pretty sure I posted an i7 13700 .. let me check .. ah yes I did post an i7 13700.

Now let's do some simple math ^^ the 12900K cost $394.00 atm. The 13700 cost $350 atm. Now which one of those cpu's is going to give you more frames per second. The 13700 and it does it for cheaper. I'm no rocket scientist but I'm pretty sure less expensive cpu that gives you more frames per second is a sure winner.

https://ark.intel.com/content/www/u...2900k-processor-30m-cache-up-to-5-20-ghz.html
Launch Date: Q4'21
Total Cores: 16
# of Performance-cores: 8
# of Efficient-cores: 8
Total Threads: 24
Memory Types: Up to DDR5 4800 MT/s

https://www.intel.com/content/www/u...-30m-cache-up-to-5-20-ghz/specifications.html
Launch Date: Q1'23
Total Cores:16
# of Performance-cores: 8
# of Efficient-cores: 8
Total Threads: 24
Memory Types: Up to DDR5 5600 MT/s

And to help you understand this I'm going to post a few graphs.

This graph shows the locked 12 gen i7 trailing the unlocked i7 12 gen cpu by a whopping one frame per second on average. I doubt it's any different with the 13 gen i7's.

Now find the i7 13700K on this graph and then find the i9 12900K on here.

 

[N1njaDestr0yer]

Now that you put it that way... I see how a 12900k & 12700k, is dated, but would be a good choice for a second/backup PC....

Improved PCPP: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/M6ZLzf Swapped the 12900k & Z690 MoBo out for a 13700k + Z790 should have done this from the getco....

 

[N1njaDestr0yer]

Sorry Updated the list again, also & swapped out the case, And changed the Fans the one I wanted originally was out of stock

Updated PCPP: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/gzcpyK

 

[N1njaDestr0yer]

I hate to be a downer, But I am really not wanting to get a RTX 4000 Series GPU, I can't seem to find the right monitor(s) to match... I thought I could go 1440p but the 40 series doesn't play well with 2k Resolutions I am really wanting to get a Open Box/Like New RTX 3080 Ti + 3090 Ti, I can find those for real cheap....

I know they are "old" but the price seems waaaaayyyy better for my needs...

 

[DSzymborski]

I thought I could go 1440p but the 40 series doesn't play well with 2k Resolutions

What exactly are you referring to?

 

[boju]

I'd like to know the answer to that as well 🤔

 

[N1njaDestr0yer]

What exactly are you referring to?

Oh, Sorry.. I was using a PC Bottleneck calculator, I set it to 2560x1440 (1440p) and came out too weak... suggested that a higher display would be "advised".... But are PC Bottleneck calcuators to be trusted? Or am I just spinning a web of mistakes & foul play?

P.S Here's that calculator that gave me that bogus reason... https://pc-builds.com/bottleneck-calculator/

 

[boju]

What does higher display mean? 4k? By their calculations, too weak for 1440p and 4k is advised? I already know bottleneck calculators are utter bs, just playing on their words. Should be enough to avoid them. Best places to see performance analysis is here or elsewhere like Techspot for reviews and benchmarks.

 

[DSzymborski]

Oh, Sorry.. I was using a PC Bottleneck calculator, I set it to 2560x1440 (1440p) and came out too weak... suggested that a higher display would be "advised".... But are PC Bottleneck calcuators to be trusted? Or am I just spinning a web of mistakes & foul play?

Bottleneck calculators have zero value. They're just very simple algorithms slapped together. Put together a sensible, balanced, build, and the rest takes care of itself.

 

[N1njaDestr0yer]

Oh whoops, I really was spinning a web foul play.... My bad, by the way what's the actual purpose of PC Bottleneck Calculators? Real curious

Now my question to me is what OS to run on my PC.... Windows 10 LTSC or Windows 11 Pro? Upgrade to something that's flawed and needs to be tweaked and worked on and has only been out for a year.... Or use an OS that has been out since 2015 and has had time to get it's flaws worked out and tweaked

Personally why should I pay a premium for features that I rarely use or don't even touch.... Why? Or maybe I've just gotten use to Windows 10 since it's been around for so long and refuse to change? IDK

 

[boju]

Few mods i know are on Win11 and they have no issues. Stay on 10 if you're comfortable with it.

 

[N1njaDestr0yer]

Now don't get me wrong I don't mind using Windows 11, my problem or concern is just re-learing the new GUI/UI that Windows 11 brings, not quite use to it.... But I am willing to try something New & Different.

 

[helper800]

Now don't get me wrong I don't mind using Windows 11, my problem or concern is just re-learing the new GUI/UI that Windows 11 brings, not quite use to it.... But I am willing to try something New & Different.

I made the adjustment in less than a day going from Win10 to Win11. I customized the GUI to my liking and never changed it since I installed it.

As for the build I would change it like the following. The Corsair case you want with the Glass front panel will starve your parts of airflow. I changed it over to the same case but with a mesh front instead. The AIO you picked is not the best, so I swapped it over to an Arctic freezer 2. The 13700k really is pretty much the same as the 13700 given the same cooling, and you save 50 dollars. The storage devices you picked are good, but if you want a little more performance, you should go with the 990 pro for boot and the crucial P5 plus for storage. Both these drives have DRAM caches which are very nice to have when they are needed. I swapped the MSI board over to an ASUS board because I assume you want to mess around with ARGB effects. ASUS and Corsair partnered kinda so iCUE can control ASUS products.

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: Intel Core i7-13700 2.1 GHz 16-Core Processor ($349.99 @ Best Buy)
CPU Cooler: ARCTIC Liquid Freezer II 360 A-RGB 48.8 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($159.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus TUF GAMING B760-PLUS WIFI ATX LGA1700 Motherboard ($209.99 @ B&H)
Memory: G.Skill Trident Z5 RGB 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6400 CL32 Memory ($119.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 990 Pro 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($89.99 @ B&H)
Storage: Crucial P5 Plus 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($131.99 @ Adorama)
Video Card: Asus TUF GAMING GeForce RTX 4080 16 GB Video Card ($1199.99 @ ASUS)
Case: Corsair iCUE 4000D RGB AIRFLOW ATX Mid Tower Case ($134.13 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Corsair RM1000x (2021) 1000 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($164.99 @ Newegg)
Case Fan: Corsair iCUE SP120 RGB ELITE 47.7 CFM 120 mm Fan ($23.05 @ Amazon)
Total: $2584.10
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-06-15 14:35 EDT-0400

 

[N1njaDestr0yer]

I did look into Corsair's 5000D RGB and Corsair 7000D Airflow PC Cases, but I will stick with the i7 13700k and Z790 Mobo & the LS720 AIO

But decided to stay with the 4000X Case since it was cheaper, but I still think about those x2 cases I mentioned above....

 

[King Dranzer]

I did look into Corsair's 5000D RGB and Corsair 7000D Airflow PC Cases, but I will stick with the i7 13700k and Z790 Mobo & the LS720 AIO

But decided to stay with the 4000X Case since it was cheaper, but I still think about those x2 cases I mentioned above....

Spending that much and not going for absolute best performance with RTX4090 is bit odd. I know aesthetics matter but if you have to give up on performance it becomes hard.

It is like asking for Porsche with Inline 6 making 350hp over Mercedes with a V8 making 650hp.

I still say give it a thought. You are spending high for a tier down on performance. And specially when performance difference is that big. This generation RTX4080 and RTX4090 are really way apart in performance.

 

[helper800]

As @King Dranzer said above you could do something like this for a similar price;

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: Intel Core i7-13700 2.1 GHz 16-Core Processor ($349.99 @ Best Buy)
CPU Cooler: Thermalright Phantom Spirit 120 SE ARGB 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler ($48.00 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus TUF GAMING B760-PLUS WIFI ATX LGA1700 Motherboard ($209.99 @ B&H)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws S5 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory ($104.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 990 Pro 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($89.99 @ B&H)
Video Card: Zotac GAMING AMP Extreme AIRO GeForce RTX 4090 24 GB Video Card ($1584.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design Pop Air RGB ATX Mid Tower Case ($89.99 @ B&H)
Power Supply: Corsair RM850e (2023) 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($114.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $2592.93
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-06-15 17:35 EDT-0400

 

[USAFRet]

Oh, Sorry.. I was using a PC Bottleneck calculator

Don't do that...
Seriously.

 

[N1njaDestr0yer]

I made the adjustment in less than a day going from Win10 to Win11. I customized the GUI to my liking and never changed it since I installed it.

As for the build I would change it like the following. The Corsair case you want with the Glass front panel will starve your parts of airflow. I changed it over to the same case but with a mesh front instead. The AIO you picked is not the best, so I swapped it over to an Arctic freezer 2. The 13700k really is pretty much the same as the 13700 given the same cooling, and you save 50 dollars. The storage devices you picked are good, but if you want a little more performance, you should go with the 990 pro for boot and the crucial P5 plus for storage. Both these drives have DRAM caches which are very nice to have when they are needed. I swapped the MSI board over to an ASUS board because I assume you want to mess around with ARGB effects. ASUS and Corsair partnered kinda so iCUE can control ASUS products.

I see where you were going with this, but I have a few counters to your statement or possible solutions...

1. When you mentioned "The Corsair case you want with the Glass front panel will starve your parts of airflow". - You meant the Corsair 4000X is bad? I thought the 4000X had a front ventilation system infused into the front panel.... Who said anything the side panel needs air? But if that is a problem I could easily swap out the 4000X to the 5000D and add RGB fans (same ones in the build SP120 Elite RGB) and for the iCUE thing I found that OpenRGB works good as a second alternative iCUE

1.5 I could swap out the 4000X and 5000X to the 5000D + 7000D and add RGB fans to them, assuming that the Corsair X Series of PC Cases are bad/trash

2. "The AIO you picked is not the best". -What's wrong with the LS720 AIO? I thought it was fine, Besides some of the other AIOs I wanted were wayyyy too expensive for me & my budget....

3. "The storage devices you picked are good, but if you want a little more performance, you should go with the 990 pro for boot and the crucial P5 plus for storage".
- Perosnally I like the Storage Drives I have, I really didn't like the Samsung 990 SSDs (M.2) with their stupidly short life expectancy aka they die and you barely get 2 months out of them....

Edited PCPP: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/ng7Lhk

 

[helper800]

I see where you were going with this, but I have a few counters to your statement or possible solutions...

1. When you mentioned "The Corsair case you want with the Glass front panel will starve your parts of airflow". - You meant the Corsair 4000X is bad? I thought the 4000X had a front ventilation system infused into the front panel.... Who said anything the side panel needs air? But if that is a problem I could easily swap out the 4000X to the 5000D and add RGB fans (same ones in the build SP120 Elite RGB) and for the iCUE thing I found that OpenRGB works good as a second alternative iCUE

1.5 I could swap out the 4000X and 5000X to the 5000D + 7000D and add RGB fans to them, assuming that the Corsair X Series of PC Cases are bad/trash

2. "The AIO you picked is not the best". -What's wrong with the LS720 AIO? I thought it was fine, Besides some of the other AIOs I wanted were wayyyy too expensive for me & my budget....

3. "The storage devices you picked are good, but if you want a little more performance, you should go with the 990 pro for boot and the crucial P5 plus for storage".
- Perosnally I like the Storage Drives I have, I really didn't like the Samsung 990 SSDs (M.2) with their stupidly short life expectancy aka they die and you barely get 2 months out of them....

Edited PCPP: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/ng7Lhk

1. That is why I linked the corsair 4000D with their ARGB fans, which would cost less than a 5000D with the same fans or a 7000D with the same fans. The one I originally linked was the 4000X but with the airflow front mounted instead of the glass panel.

1.5. The 5000D and the 7000D are good cases. Any of the X cases from corsair have that same glass front panel that does exactly what I said, starve the parts of high airflow.

2. So the Deepcool LS720 is a generic Asetec cooler that Deepcool slapped their branding on / fans. Correct me if I am wrong, but I am almost sure of it. The arctic freezer is one of the best performing AIOs you can buy that at the same time is 5-10 decibels quieter than all but the most expensive of its competition. None of this is to say the the AIO is bad, in fact it is really good for the price, but there is definitely better in the same price range, and that is the Arctic Freezer 2. You can get it cheaper without the ARGB fans by about 30-40 dollars and add your own corsair fans if you wanted as well so they all matched better.

3. The 990 pro no longer has the bugged firmware you are referring to. Cacheless drives really struggle in certain tasks which is why in suggested those, but for 90% of what a game will do the WD drives will be fine, your call on those to save a bit.

 

[N1njaDestr0yer]

If I did do the RGB Fan route on the 5000D/7000D which fans (RGB) should I get? Also would a controller be needed?

I did some research on which RGB fans I would need, I think I should get either the Corsair QL120 or LL120 since those are a non PWN design where as the SP120 Elite RGB ones were, I think...