[SOLVED] Gaming Build Tweaking/Advice

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Muckster

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Hi, I recently got some great advice from you guys for a new gaming build. (special thanks to jeremyj_83, cryoburner, and jimthenagual). It's taken me a little longer to pull the trigger than I expected, but I'm close and wanted to see if the build needed any last minute tweaking.

One thing that's changed since I last posted is where I'll be putting the case. Ideally, I'd like to place it inside a sort of unusually thick wall that divides two room or put it in the top cubby hole of the wall unit I built, just below the HDTV. (Wall is thick because it was built to hide an Iron I-beam in the basement). The enclosed area where the PC will live is about 3' x 5' x 16", or about 20 sq feet of space. On one side is mounted a 60" HDTV which also will have some back venting into this enclosure. Below the TV are cubby holes for components, one of which currently holds a ATX build horizontally oriented. My plan is to relocate this current PC case to inside the wall compartment and for my NEW build I'll either put that build inside the enclosure too, or put it into the top cubby. The ceiling of this top cubby has many holes drilled in to allow it to vent into the enclosed area. On the back side of the wall there is an access door to the compartment. On this access door is another 12" x 6" opening which is disguised as a register vent. I hope some of that made sense. Here's an image of the wall unit followed by another image of where the faux front opens showing a computer desk area. (I just ran extension cording so the sitting area has power on/off and a USB hub).

Wall Unit
wallunit%201.jpg




PC area
wallunit%204.jpg



TV specs:
https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16889007194

If you ask me, I'll try to get a picture of the actual enclosure and other side of the wall.

Long story short. I had a PC case inside the wall and one in the cubby hole out front. The one inside the wall died (old age) and so I'm moving the one in the cubby inside the compartment to use for the one that died then I'm going to build a new PC. The new PC can either live in the top cubby under the TV or it could ALSO be placed inside the compartment. Sorry for being a bit redundant.

Anyway, the point is, this new build might have some heating issues at least during taxing gaming.

Here's the build for PC that's currently IN the wall unit, but which I will soon put INSIDE the wall unit. This is a 2015 build. I only list it to give you a sense of the heat it might kick out.
https://pcpartpicker.com/user/pshopper/saved/#view=mWCRsY

Now, for my NEW build, this is what I'm working with (jeremyj_83 credit):
https://pcpartpicker.com/user/pshopper/saved/#view=G8GJbv

This ATX AMD build is around $1,640 but Parts Picker doesn't currently show the cost of the fractal case which is currently out of stock.

So, first, it's been a couple weeks so if there's any better deals on hardware I can swap out for a little better deal, please let me know. I have a hard time keeping up with making sure everything is compatible so I get nervous swapping out components. I debated going with the Ryzen 7 2700 3.2, but I think the 2600x might be a better fit. I'm open to any suggestions, but in a previous thread the good people at the forums here helped me to rule out Intel.

I don't overclock and I don't upgrade.

Typically I build a new PC with quality components every 5 to 6 years the keep the older one for LAN play or to pass down to a family member. I'm 50 years old and have a couple teenagers who I like to LAN play with in my home. Anyway, I think the 2600 X will be better for me because I don't plan to overclock it beyond the factory OC settings. On the other hand, being an old gamer, I'm now established, and it's not a big issue for me to throw another hundred bucks or so at this build if someone can talk me into it.

You can see in the listed build that I've got several case fans. I'm a little worried about the noise. I might switch those out for Notura or Be Quiet! or maybe use fewer fans. That's one of the big questions I'm struggling with. Maybe if it's inside the wall it will be hotter, but also I won't hear the noise as much?? That said, I guess the best way to mount this new PC for cooling will be in that cubby hole just under the TV which means I'll need a case that's good with a horizontal orientation but I'd like to hear from the forum. I do like the Fractals, but maybe there's something better suited? (and the Define S is out of stock ATM anyway).

So, if you please, advise on this build, how to cool it, and where to put it! I'm a little nervous about using any kind of water cooling and my intention for that 2600X is to just use the stock fan.

These forums have been good to me and your advice is much respected and appreciated! While I am no stranger to building PCs, I don't keep up with the latest tech.

Thanks if you can help!

EDIT: Cubby hole (shown in image just below the TV) has these dimensions:
19"W, 20"deep, 6" tall. There are holes above it (going into the enclosed wall) and there are also holes on the shelf it rests on. Well, I should say I plan to drill holes in the shelf on which it sits but I haven't done it yet.
 
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Solution
That looks good. SATA cables should come with the motherboard, however, fan splitters won't. That is something you would have to buy on your own, or have them run at full speed with molex adapters. Overall this should be a screaming system when all is said and done.
Here is the list:

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor ($144.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte - B450 I AORUS PRO WIFI Mini ITX AM4 Motherboard ($119.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Team - Vulcan 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($66.89 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Crucial - MX500 500 GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($66.85 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA - GeForce RTX 2080 Ti 11 GB Black Video Card ($1091.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair - SF 600 W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully Modular SFX Power Supply ($129.00 @ Newegg)
Total: $1619.70
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-06-07 13:48 EDT-0400


Reuse the Case. This is all you need to run games at 4K and get decent performance.
As that case has already been giving you decent performance no need to replace it.
 

Muckster

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Basically in a hot environment, 37C at Johnnyguru or 45C at Tomshardware, the PSU is still very efficient. You will want a positive airflow case for it since the case fans help cool it. However, it is totally silent which is a bonus. If you wanted to stay at 650W with a PSU that has a fan and extremely high efficiency, that means lower heat, then the Prime Ultra Titanium is a great choice.

If you think I can get by for power with the fanless at only 600W, and you're not worried about the heat, then I'll spend extra on the fanless.

Thanks for taking the time to look up those case fans too! So I'll get the 80mm fans separately, but the case comes with three 120mm case fans include, right? Your setup is assuming I'm using those as well. Do I need to replace those 120mms for anything better (quieter) or do you think I'm good with the included 120s? And finally, assuming I go with the three 120mm intakes, the two 80mm rear exhaust fans, and the fanless PSU, will that get me positive pressure inside the case?

I think I will go ahead and get the Noctua CPU fan on the chance that it might run quieter and cooler. Then, I can get the ODD too. The only possible draw back might be the ODD blocking case airflow. Thanks for all the nuance in explaining and looking this up!

I don't think you will need liquid cooling for this build. Remember hot air rises and if there is enough ventilation holes on the top most of it should go upwards and not be forced back to the front. With the GD05 case you will also have about 8" from the back of the case to the back of the cabinet. The GPU will not spill any hot air into the case since it is a blower design.

Does that mean the GPU fans are blowing ONTO the card as opposed to sucking the air away from them?

If you use a high efficiency PSU that will cut down on heat as well.

So, to be clear, the fanless Seasonic is still considered "high efficiency," right?

So, bottom line... if I go with the GD05 case you recommend, with the Noctua CPU cooler, and the fanless PSU, you think I'll still be alright for cooling and noise?
 
If you think I can get by for power with the fanless at only 600W, and you're not worried about the heat, then I'll spend extra on the fanless.

Thanks for taking the time to look up those case fans too! So I'll get the 80mm fans separately, but the case comes with three 120mm case fans include, right? Your setup is assuming I'm using those as well. Do I need to replace those 120mms for anything better (quieter) or do you think I'm good with the included 120s? And finally, assuming I go with the three 120mm intakes, the two 80mm rear exhaust fans, and the fanless PSU, will that get me positive pressure inside the case?

I think I will go ahead and get the Noctua CPU fan on the chance that it might run quieter and cooler. Then, I can get the ODD too. The only possible draw back might be the ODD blocking case airflow. Thanks for all the nuance in explaining and looking this up!



Does that mean the GPU fans are blowing ONTO the card as opposed to sucking the air away from them?



So, to be clear, the fanless Seasonic is still considered "high efficiency," right?

So, bottom line... if I go with the GD05 case you recommend, with the Noctua CPU cooler, and the fanless PSU, you think I'll still be alright for cooling and noise?
The case comes with 3x 120mm fans pre-installed in the case. You will have to install the 2x 80mm fans, but you will have more airflow into the case than out so it will be positive pressure.

The fanless Seasonic is 80+ Titanium rated which is the highest efficiency rating there is. When the reviews of that PSU were done, it was both the highest wattage and best fanless PSU on the market.

A blower fan for a GPU has a single fan at the back of the card. The rest of the components have a heatsink on them with a shroud over the card. The blower then shoots air across all the components at once and out the rear of the case. Unlike some aftermarket coolers what will dispose of the hot GPU air into the case, a blower cooler will shoot all the hot air out of the case.
 

Muckster

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A blower fan for a GPU has a single fan at the back of the card. The rest of the components have a heatsink on them with a shroud over the card. The blower then shoots air across all the components at once and out the rear of the case. Unlike some aftermarket coolers what will dispose of the hot GPU air into the case, a blower cooler will shoot all the hot air out of the case.

Well Jeremy, there are many others here with more "points" and "likes" than you but you've stuck with me I think you have a good understanding about what I want and the obstacles I face. That means a lot.

So far I've gotten all kinds on contrary advice from people on this build. Some say put it in wall, not the cubby. Others say put a small build in the cubby not a big one. Some say don't attempt it without fans in the wall unit itself or without liquid cooling. Others say don't try to put a gaming build inside an HTPC at all!

And I have to admit, I'm still a little nervous about sticking a box in that cubby that barely fits with only side intakes...

But.. bottom line... with the understanding there's really no way to be 100% certain.... if I go with the GD05 case you recommend, with the Noctua CPU cooler, and the fanless PSU, the three factory 120mm intake fans, and the two 80 mm exhaust fans, do you truly think I'll be alright for cooling and noise? Are you should I shouldn't look around for a case with front intakes?


EDIT: Hey, what about this case?

Thermaltake Core G3 Gaming Slim ATX Chassis
https://support.thermaltakeusa.com/products-model.aspx?id=C_00002936

Still a snug fit, but FRONT intakes. Allows 310mm for vid card. I'm still looking into it...

EDIT AGAIN: I've read a few reviews. Not the best marks on noise and cable management and I'm just not sure it's a quality build but it's nice to know front intake fans exist for this form factor.
 
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Well Jeremy, there are many others here with more "points" and "likes" than you but you've stuck with me I think you have a good understanding about what I want and the obstacles I face. That means a lot.

So far I've gotten all kinds on contrary advice from people on this build. Some say put it in wall, not the cubby. Others say put a small build in the cubby not a big one. Some say don't attempt it without fans in the wall unit itself or without liquid cooling. Others say don't try to put a gaming build inside an HTPC at all!

And I have to admit, I'm still a little nervous about sticking a box in that cubby that barely fits with only side intakes...

But.. bottom line... with the understanding there's really no way to be 100% certain.... if I go with the GD05 case you recommend, with the Noctua CPU cooler, and the fanless PSU, the three factory 120mm intake fans, and the two 80 mm exhaust fans, do you truly think I'll be alright for cooling and noise? Are you should I shouldn't look around for a case with front intakes?


EDIT: Hey, what about this case?

Thermaltake Core G3 Gaming Slim ATX Chassis
https://support.thermaltakeusa.com/products-model.aspx?id=C_00002936

Still a snug fit, but FRONT intakes. Allows 310mm for vid card. I'm still looking into it...

EDIT AGAIN: I've read a few reviews. Not the best marks on noise and cable management and I'm just not sure it's a quality build but it's nice to know front intake fans exist for this form factor.
Whenever you are putting a powerful system in a tight space it is always a crap shoot. Going with high efficiency components will help limit the heat output from the computer. Since you have drilled a couple holes in the entertainment center, that will help with removing the heat. The GD05 with the rear fans and the Noctua cooler will give the the best combinations of quiet and air movement. Having the titanium rated PSU will also help with thermals and noise.
That case you linked is decent. The issue I have with it is that it doesn't have rear fans.
 
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Muckster

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Whenever you are putting a powerful system in a tight space it is always a crap shoot.

I really I appreciate your attention to detail and thoughtful approach to this build!

I found this one last case to consider. It's the FTZ-01E. It has three 120mm bottom fans and only one 120mm top exhaust fan and no rear fans. I don't think it's better than the GD05, but I thought I'd just mention it and get your 2 cents.
https://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=771&area=en

Assuming the FTZ-01E is a no go, I have to say, the more I look at cases on my own the more I appreciate how well you did picking the GD05. The GD04 seems to use a slim DVD instead of a full size. I don't mind using a slim DVD drive if that helps in any way with the CPU cooler. What made you choose the GD05 over the 04?

Other than that, I'm ready to buy. Would you mind taking one last look at the build and seeing if I'm getting the best prices at the moment? I've got a few cables and odd ball parts here at home, but if you happen to think of any extras I might need (like fan splitters), let me know.

Going back to the old thread weeks ago, remember that I'm not ever planning to overclock and I don't care or plan to upgrade. I thikn we've made it about as quiet as cooling will allow in the cubby hole. It's been a long road, but thanks to all your help, I feel confident in the proposed build.

Also, I'm not sure what to make of the Parts Picker warning "The motherboard M.2 slot #2 shares bandwidth with a SATA 6.0 Gb/s port. When the M.2 slot is populated, one SATA 6.0 Gb/s port is disabled. " I know what SATAS ports are but I'm less sure about the M.2 slot. I know sometimes vid cards take up extra room simply for their size.

Here's a tweak of the latest build you did for me. I upgraded to the Prime Seasonic Titanium 600 and added Win 10 home 64 bit.

https://pcpartpicker.com/user/pshopper/saved/#view=RXMFGX
 
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PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 7 2700 3.2 GHz 8-Core Processor ($209.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Noctua - NH-L12S 55.44 CFM CPU Cooler
Motherboard: ASRock - B450M PRO4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($69.89 @ OutletPC)
Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws 4 Series 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($77.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Intel - 660p Series 2 TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($198.90 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Seagate - Constellation ES 3 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: EVGA - GeForce RTX 2080 8 GB GAMING Video Card ($698.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Silverstone - GD05B-USB3.0 HTPC Case ($148.98 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: SeaSonic - PRIME Ultra Titanium 650 W 80+ Titanium Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($159.98 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($99.39 @ OutletPC)
Case Fan: Enermax - UC-8EB 24 CFM 80 mm Fan ($14.93 @ Amazon)
Case Fan: Enermax - UC-8EB 24 CFM 80 mm Fan ($14.93 @ Amazon)
Total: $1743.96
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-06-09 10:20 EDT-0400


I used the GD05 instead of the GD04 because of full sized DVD drive slot. I have used slim line drives, but those are more expensive and slower. I went back to a regular PSU with a fan, just with the high level of efficiency. According to Seasonic's information, in a 25C environment the fan will only turn on at 40% load and will be no louder than 20dB. Once again the fans in the case will be very quiet and the loudest thing will be the GPU. This is a different GPU since the mail in rebate for the Gigabyte isn't going on anymore.
 

Muckster

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PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 7 2700 3.2 GHz 8-Core Processor ($209.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Noctua - NH-L12S 55.44 CFM CPU Cooler
Motherboard: ASRock - B450M PRO4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($69.89 @ OutletPC)
Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws 4 Series 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($77.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Intel - 660p Series 2 TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($198.90 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Seagate - Constellation ES 3 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: EVGA - GeForce RTX 2080 8 GB GAMING Video Card ($698.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Silverstone - GD05B-USB3.0 HTPC Case ($148.98 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: SeaSonic - PRIME Ultra Titanium 650 W 80+ Titanium Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($159.98 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($99.39 @ OutletPC)
Case Fan: Enermax - UC-8EB 24 CFM 80 mm Fan ($14.93 @ Amazon)
Case Fan: Enermax - UC-8EB 24 CFM 80 mm Fan ($14.93 @ Amazon)
Total: $1743.96
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-06-09 10:20 EDT-0400


I used the GD05 instead of the GD04 because of full sized DVD drive slot. I have used slim line drives, but those are more expensive and slower. I went back to a regular PSU with a fan, just with the high level of efficiency. According to Seasonic's information, in a 25C environment the fan will only turn on at 40% load and will be no louder than 20dB. Once again the fans in the case will be very quiet and the loudest thing will be the GPU. This is a different GPU since the mail in rebate for the Gigabyte isn't going on anymore.

I might have access to an old slim drive so I might change up the case. Can you confirm the only reason to go with the GD05 is for the full DVD?

RE: CPU COOLER
The Silverstone GD04 and GD05 list the same stats for the CPU cooler height even though the GD04 supports a slim DVD. This is because both models use the same metal bracket to hold the ODD. I'm certain I could get my tools and adjust that bracket to take up less room and still support a slim ODD. Allowance for CPU cooler without the bracket is 70mm, but 120mm without. The AMD stock wraith cooler is 85mm, so I'd only need to gain another 15mm (5/8") of space.

But, the weird thing is that on the GD04, there's what appears to be an eject button just below the slim ODD slot. Weird because every slim DVD I've ever seen doesn't have a separate button like this. This might get in the way, but I'm not even sure what it is.

Anyway, if I went with the GD04 with a slim DVD and adapted the bracket, I might be able to fit the stock fan for the AMD CPU and save a couple bucks. So the real question is, if the fit didn't matter, would you still recommend the Noctua over the stock fan? (Also, I only found the Noctua cooler on amazon and it's going to take a few days longer to get it than the rest of my components, so it will delay my build.)

No issue with the M.2 slot (as mentioned by Parts Picker), right? From what I've read, with this build, I won't even need or use the M.2 slot, but I just wanted to confirm there wasn't a conflict.

As for the video card, you replaced the previous gigabyte with the evga. It's only a $10 difference. Knowing I'm not going to ever do my own overclocking and knowing the gigabyte has slightly better core and boost clock speeds, might I be better off sticking with the gigabyte? Also, you mentioned before that the gigabyte has the special "blower cooler" which helps to immediately move the heat out the back of the case. That was a nice feature but I'm not sure if the evga has it. (Gigabyte Core clock/Boost clock = 1710/1785... Evga Core Clock/Boost clock = 1515/1710)

I understand your point about the PSU and 40% load. It's a feature my current seasonic PSU has. But it's not the same as fanless. Are you saying the new PSU your recommend is better overall or are you saying the fanless is still better but just not worth the extra $40? Would I still benefit from zero fan noise instead of 20dB? Or are you concerned things might overheat with a fanless?
 
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I might have access to an old slim drive so I might change up the case. Can you confirm the only reason to go with the GD05 is for the full DVD?

RE: CPU COOLER
The Silverstone GD04 and GD05 list the same stats for the CPU cooler height even though the GD04 supports a slim DVD. This is because both models use the same metal bracket to hold the ODD. I'm certain I could get my tools and adjust that bracket to take up less room and still support a slim ODD. Allowance for CPU cooler without the bracket is 70mm, but 120mm without. The AMD stock wraith cooler is 85mm, so I'd only need to gain another 15mm (5/8") of space.

But, the weird thing is that on the GD04, there's what appears to be an eject button just below the slim ODD slot. Weird because every slim DVD I've ever seen doesn't have a separate button like this. This might get in the way, but I'm not even sure what it is.

Anyway, if I went with the GD04 with a slim DVD and adapted the bracket, I might be able to fit the stock fan for the AMD CPU and save a couple bucks. So the real question is, if the fit didn't matter, would you still recommend the Noctua over the stock fan? (Also, I only found the Noctua cooler on amazon and it's going to take a few days longer to get it than the rest of my components, so it will delay my build.)

No issue with the M.2 slot (as mentioned by Parts Picker), right? From what I've read, with this build, I won't even need or use the M.2 slot, but I just wanted to confirm there wasn't a conflict.

As for the video card, you replaced the previous gigabyte with the evga. It's only a $10 difference. Knowing I'm not going to ever do my own overclocking and knowing the gigabyte has slightly better core and boost clock speeds, might I be better off sticking with the gigabyte? Also, you mentioned before that the gigabyte has the special "blower cooler" which helps to immediately move the heat out the back of the case. That was a nice feature but I'm not sure if the evga has it. (Gigabyte Core clock/Boost clock = 1710/1785... Evga Core Clock/Boost clock = 1515/1710)

I understand your point about the PSU and 40% load. It's a feature my current seasonic PSU has. But it's not the same as fanless. Are you saying the new PSU your recommend is better overall or are you saying the fanless is still better but just not worth the extra $40? Would I still benefit from zero fan noise instead of 20dB? Or are you concerned things might overheat with a fanless?
There is no other reason than the full size 5.25" bay that I went with the GD05. If you can get a slimline to work with the bit of extra clearance then that would be a good.

The M.2 isn't an issue since the "Ultra M.2" uses the PCIe from the CPU rather than the SATA ports. If you were to add another M.2 SSD it would have to be a SATA M.2 and you would then lose one of the SATA ports on the motherboard.

I went with the savings on the GPU that is the only reason it changed. For the PSU it isn't that the fanless is any less of a PSU that the fan in one, they are both the same design just one has a fan and one doesn't. The fan just is able to work at full power at 50C which would be good in case the location of the case has extra heat. Going with the fanned version will get you 50W of power and 50C operation at 650W. If it were to be in a place where there wasn't any obstruction out the back then by all means the fanless woudl be an amazing PSU to have. I am looking at using it for my next desktop build.
 

Muckster

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There is no other reason than the full size 5.25" bay that I went with the GD05. If you can get a slimline to work with the bit of extra clearance then that would be a good.

Actually, I think I misunderstood the difference in the cases. It looks like both the GD04 and GD05 are for full size ODD. The only difference is how they are displayed on the front panel. The GD04 covers the face of the DVD player leaving only the tray and eject button exposed while the GD05 just lets the whole face come out. I don't think I can stick a slim tray in the GD04, but even if I could I'd have that ugly hole where the eject button is supposed to be... so... the choices are either go with a cooler under 70mm or skip the ODD drive and use any cooler up to 120mm in height.

But I'm still confused on CPU coolers!

I've been having a hard time finding AMD stats on the stock coolers, but it appears the AMD stock cooler for the Ryzen 7 2700 is the Wraith Spire and, if the stats I indirectly found are correct, it's height is 70mm which means it should fit the GD05 just barely. Right? Even if it didn't fit I still contemplating going without the DVD to save myself $50 on the Noctua CPU cooler. It really depends on being able to see the stats of the stock cooler for noise and cooling.

So that's why I'm asking you so many questions about the Noctua vs. the stock Wraith Spire. I'm trying to compare them for noise and air flow but I can't find official stats for any of the AMD Wraith fans. Not needing the Noctua, I save $50 putting me at $210 for the Ryzen 7 2700 instead of $260. And THIS makes me wonder about the Ryzen 7 2700X which comes with the Wraith Prism, yet another cooler I can't find stats for. If the Prism fits and is just as quiet as the Noctua, for $20 more I might be better off going with the 2700X and the Prism rather than the 2700 and the Noctua? Not having to buy a 3rd party CPU was one of the main things that moved me from AMD to Intel in the first place.

Ryzen 7 2700 using stock fan = $210
Ryzen 7 2700 + Noctua = $260
Ryzen 7 2700x using stock fan = $280

The M.2 isn't an issue since the "Ultra M.2" uses the PCIe from the CPU rather than the SATA ports. If you were to add another M.2 SSD it would have to be a SATA M.2 and you would then lose one of the SATA ports on the motherboard.

That sounds right, but thank you for confirming!

I went with the savings on the GPU that is the only reason it changed.

With the gigabyte I get a 4% faster core clock and a 12% faster boost clock and the specialized "blower" fan, right? Isn't that worth an extra $10, or am I missing something?

For the PSU it isn't that the fanless is any less of a PSU that the fan in one, they are both the same design just one has a fan and one doesn't. The fan just is able to work at full power at 50C which would be good in case the location of the case has extra heat. Going with the fanned version will get you 50W of power and 50C operation at 650W. If it were to be in a place where there wasn't any obstruction out the back then by all means the fanless woudl be an amazing PSU to have. I am looking at using it for my next desktop build.

Okay, so you're saying I'd better stick with the fan model given my cubby hole situation. If that's the motivation for the change, I agree it's a good and smart change.
 
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Actually, I think I misunderstood the difference in the cases. It looks like both the GD04 and GD05 are for full size ODD. The only difference is how they are displayed on the front panel. The GD04 covers the face of the DVD player leaving only the tray and eject button exposed while the GD05 just lets the whole face come out. I don't think I can stick a slim tray in the GD04, but even if I could I'd have that ugly hole where the eject button is supposed to be... so... the choices are either go with a cooler under 70mm or skip the ODD drive and use any cooler up to 120mm in height.

But I'm still confused on CPU coolers!

I've been having a hard time finding AMD stats on the stock coolers, but it appears the AMD stock cooler for the Ryzen 7 2700 is the Wraith Spire and, if the stats I indirectly found are correct, it's height is 70mm which means it should fit the GD05 just barely. Right? Even if it didn't fit I still contemplating going without the DVD to save myself $50 on the Noctua CPU cooler. It really depends on being able to see the stats of the stock cooler for noise and cooling.

So that's why I'm asking you so many questions about the Noctua vs. the stock Wraith Spire. I'm trying to compare them for noise and air flow but I can't find official stats for any of the AMD Wraith fans. Not needing the Noctua, I save $50 putting me at $210 for the Ryzen 7 2700 instead of $260. And THIS makes me wonder about the Ryzen 7 2700X which comes with the Wraith Prism, yet another cooler I can't find stats for. If the Prism fits and is just as quiet as the Noctua, for $20 more I might be better off going with the 2700X and the Prism rather than the 2700 and the Noctua? Not having to buy a 3rd party CPU was one of the main things that moved me from AMD to Intel in the first place.

Ryzen 7 2700 using stock fan = $210
Ryzen 7 2700 + Noctua = $260
Ryzen 7 2700x using stock fan = $280



That sounds right, but thank you for confirming!



With the gigabyte I get a 4% faster core clock and a 12% faster boost clock and the specialized "blower" fan, right? Isn't that worth an extra $10, or am I missing something?



Okay, so you're saying I'd better stick with the fan model given my cubby hole situation. If that's the motivation for the change, I agree it's a good and smart change.
https://www.techspot.com/review/1635-amd-wraith-coolers-compared/ - review of the AMD stock coolers. Overall if you aren't going to be overclock the CPU the stock AMD cooler is plenty. From what I have seen the Wraith Spire is 71mm tall, at least that is what pcpartpicker has told me, so it would be 1mm too tall with the DVD slot. If you did need a DVD drive you can always use an external drive. Removing the DVD slot would give you plenty of room for the coolers.

Both of the GPUs that I had linked have blower style coolers so they won't dump heat into the case.

The difference in cost between the fanned and fanless PSU makes recommending the fanless design hard, plus with being in the cubby having that little extra cooling for the PSU isn't a bad choice.
 

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Overall if you aren't going to be overclock the CPU the stock AMD cooler is plenty.

I think I'll pass on the 3rd party cooler for now and see how it goes with the stock fan (wraith spire). I'll skip the ODD too. Is it fair to say it's good to have a little room above the CPU cooler rather than have it just barely fit?

Both of the GPUs that I had linked have blower style coolers so they won't dump heat into the case.
As for the vid card. I think I'll pay the extra $10 for the gigabyte to get the 4% faster core clock and a 12% faster boost clock.

However, the more I read about these blower-type cards the more concerned I am about how loud they get. All the work you've done to help me get quieter fans and a quieter PSU might go to waste if the GPU is screaming in a quiet room. Do you think a non-blower card would still work with this build inside the cubby hole?
 
I think I'll pass on the 3rd party cooler for now and see how it goes with the stock fan (wraith spire). I'll skip the ODD too. Is it fair to say it's good to have a little room above the CPU cooler rather than have it just barely fit?


As for the vid card. I think I'll pay the extra $10 for the gigabyte to get the 4% faster core clock and a 12% faster boost clock.

However, the more I read about these blower-type cards the more concerned I am about how loud they get. All the work you've done to help me get quieter fans and a quieter PSU might go to waste if the GPU is screaming in a quiet room. Do you think a non-blower card would still work with this build inside the cubby hole?
Non-blower would still work with the case. They will spill some hot air into the case, however, the case is positive pressure so that hot air should be expelled quickly.
 

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Non-blower would still work with the case. They will spill some hot air into the case, however, the case is positive pressure so that hot air should be expelled quickly.

Well if you think I'd be okay with a non-blower RTX 2080, I think I'd prefer it. Could I get you to spoon feed me a link for a non-blower... maybe two? One like the gigabyte that benefits from a little factory overclocking and one plain jane for comparison? Maybe I'm not searching right, but I'm not finding a lot over at Parts Picker. Is anything with two fans probably NOT the blower style?
 
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https://www.newegg.com/pny-geforce-...8566&cjevent=e610d1718b9a11e983c0040e0a240614
https://www.newegg.com/msi-geforce-...8566&cjevent=312cb95b8b9b11e9838403f10a240612
https://www.newegg.com/msi-geforce-rtx-2080-rtx-2080-ventus-8g-oc/p/N82E16814137350
That is a mix of some factory OC and some normal. A lot of them have the factory base clock but fair bit higher boost clock.
 

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That is a mix of some factory OC and some normal. A lot of them have the factory base clock but fair bit higher boost clock.

Thanks for all those. Unfortunately, I'm not having any luck. 3 out of those 5 are just too long for the GD05 (279mm length max / 124mm width max)

The two remaining are the MSI and OCed MSI and the reviews are bad. 10-20% of reviews at Amazon said card died right away or in a couple months. I don't like those odds.

sigh This time consuming process is killing me! lol.

Am I going to have to find a different case?
 
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AH good, I have some homework to do. Let me know if you know of any good custom card comparisons for the RTX. Can we make assumptions about models with more fans? Better cooling but nosier would be my guess.

I hope to pick one out and get it all ordered today!
When it comes to assumptions about the cards I cannot answer any of that. Your best bet would be to see if there are any 3rd party reviews of those cards and make the decision from there.
 

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When it comes to assumptions about the cards I cannot answer any of that. Your best bet would be to see if there are any 3rd party reviews of those cards and make the decision from there.


Oops.. I just reedited my reply when you responed.. here's a cut paste:

Thanks for all those. Unfortunately, I'm not having any luck. 3 out of those 5 are just too long for the GD05 (279mm length max / 124mm width max)

The two remaining are the MSI and OCed MSI and the reviews are bad. 10-20% of reviews at Amazon said card died right away or in a couple months. I don't like those odds.

sigh This time consuming process is killing me! lol.

Am I going to have to find a different case?
 

Muckster

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Ug, this is my whole day again. lol.

I think I'm gonna go with:
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/r8...8gb-xc-ultra-gaming-video-card-08g-p4-2183-kr

This model, 08G-P4-2183-KR, is the newest version and the reviews were better than others.

Well, here's what I think is the final build:
https://pcpartpicker.com/user/pshopper/saved/#view=22dq3C

Let me know if you notice anything wrong. I'm gonna check for fan splitters, stata cable, etc... I can do the checking but let me know if you think of anything else I should check for. I assume the CPU stock fan comes with its own thermal paste, right? I've got some Arctic Cool stuff, but it's pretty old...
 
That looks good. SATA cables should come with the motherboard, however, fan splitters won't. That is something you would have to buy on your own, or have them run at full speed with molex adapters. Overall this should be a screaming system when all is said and done.
 
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Muckster

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That looks good. SATA cables should come with the motherboard, however, fan splitters won't. That is something you would have to buy on your own, or have them run at full speed with molex adapters.

I'm not seeing the pins on fans, but these should work, right?

31lzwbP5jYL.jpg

https://www.amazon.com/JBtek-Black-...=fan+splitter&qid=1560206626&s=gateway&sr=8-3


Enermax Marathon 80mm Silent PC Case Fan
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XBF466/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 

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