Question General help/advice for buying this 2nd hand PC and what to look out for ?

[2070s]

I've never even touched a gaming PC before.

Long story short I have never looked that deeply into building one or the specs of gaming pc as I have been playing on a potato for past 9-10 yrs until I just grew tired of it and now recently in the market for a gaming pc. Most what I know is knowledge from petty binge watching Linus build his "not so budget pc" 💀 dreaming to do the same one day and even than idk alot. And so with my budget of ~400ish give or take, I found this one.

Sellers ask $455ish/w tax, PC Spec: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/vwKhb8 and Win 11 (didn't specify edition)
From Q/A with the seller he says he had it for a year + few months and now selling to upgrade to another. Non miner gpu, non smoker but has a dog at home. The build def has a thin layer of dust from the pictures.

My questions right now are with all this is it worth it? what kinda fps can I expect? pcbenchmark did help but I wanna be sure. I don't have a preference for red team or blue team, I'm just on the team that gives me better performance and bang of bucks. How can or should I stress test this? what kinda things should I look out for? bios? I just wanna make sure I can definitively say if I get scammed/dealt bad parts to return it. Literally any advice that can get me to a "buy" or "no buy" answer and what to do with it after buying.

 

[Lutfij]

Welcome to the forums, newcomer!

You should ask the seller what the age of the entire unit and the PSU is. Few years? How many years?That should give you some indication of how hard it was taxed. If I were you, I'd weigh in on how much more you'd need to spend if you got something concurrent, even if it was a B550 chipset/Ryzen5600x/DDR4-3600MHz ram/RTX3060.
^ In essence, how much can you go if you wanted to build a system from the ground up?

Benchmarks include;
Cinebench
Superposition
are two that come to mind.

+ lastly, that case is bad airflow wise, so you'd be cooking your hardware eventually.

 

[Aeacus]

Build looks solid. At least PSU in there is of good quality and that is important, since PSU powers everything and thus, is the most important component inside the PC.

Though, since PSU is 550W unit, you're very limited in terms of GPU upgrade. RTX 4070 would be tops in there.

PC case is personal choice and not much to say about that one. It's a fishbowl case.

SSD (970 Evo), is very solid. Albeit a bit small capacity (500 GB), but should suffice for OS and few games.

HDD is cheap, extended storage. Only good to put pics/vids/music there. But it is slow read/write and not much point to put any games there. Else-ways, you'll die waiting for games to load.

RAM is good and it has plenty of it. Current day norm is 16GB but there it has it 32GB. So, you could do even some light 3D work. RGB is eyecandy and doesn't give more FPS. 3600 Mhz is good speed for that 3rd gen Ryzen, IF the EXPO holds, that is. If not, RAM should default to 2133/2666/2922 Mhz.

GPU, RTX 2070 Super, is good for 1080p gaming. Can do 1440p (2K) as well but latest games may drop the FPS to ~60 or so. And while it can do 4K as well, FPS would be low. So, best to pair it with 1080p monitor. Or when going with RTX 4060/Ti/4070, FPS in games improves a lot.

CPU cooler - 360mm rad. Plenty of cooling performance but a lot of unicorn puke on there as well. Also, do note that AIOs last 2-3 years (high end ones 3-5 years) before the pump on it goes bad and you need to replace the whole thing.

CPU - 3rd gen Ryzen. A bit old for today's standards but can manage.

MoBo - good X570 chipset, whereby you can upgrade the CPU to 5th gen Ryzen. E.g R7 5800X3D (tops that MoBo can support). Would give ~20% uplift in performance compared to R7 3700X.

All-in-all, for ~460 bucks, solid PC.

and Win 11 (didn't specify edition)

Do note that seller can't ask any money for Win11, since Win11 can not be sold to other people. Current owner owns Win11 and they should format all drives, before handing the PC over to you, whereby you then buy and install your own copy of Win11 to it.

what kinda fps can I expect?

Completely depends on a game, reso and in-game graphical settings.

I'm just on the team that gives me better performance and bang of bucks.

Solid idea is to buy the baseline build and then upgrade it according to your needs. E.g need more FPS in GPU heavy games? Better GPU. Need more FPS in CPU heavy games? Better CPU.

Speaking of upgrades, here is comparison between default and possible max upgrade you can have, without replacing PSU;
(Default as baseline, possible upgrade as alternative. With better CPU, GPU and SSD.)

Userbenchmark PC Build Comparison

Baseline Bench: Game 104%, Desk 94%, Work 104%
CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X
GPU: Nvidia RTX 2070S (Super)
SSD: Samsung 970 Evo NVMe PCIe M.2 500GB
HDD: Seagate Barracuda 2TB (2016)
RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 3600 C18 2x16GB
MBD: Gigabyte GA-X570 GAMING X

Alternative Bench: Game 194%, Desk 107%, Work 187%
CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D
GPU: Nvidia RTX 4070
SSD: Samsung 970 Evo Plus NVMe PCIe M.2 2TB
HDD: Seagate Barracuda 2TB (2016)
RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 3600 C18 2x16GB
MBD: Gigabyte GA-X570 GAMING X

How can or should I stress test this?

CPU - Cinebench 2024, AIDA64, Prime95. Take your pick.
GPU - Unigine Superposition. Default presets are good.
RAM - Memtest86. Will take a lot of time, since 4 full passes is acceptable, but will find out if there are RAM issues.
SSD - Samsung Magician. Has built-in benchmark, among other telemetry info.
HDD - CrystalDiskMark. Used to validate drives read/write performance. Can be used with Samsung SSD as well.

 

[2070s]

Build looks solid. At least PSU in there is of good quality and that is important, since PSU powers everything and thus, is the most important component inside the PC.

Though, since PSU is 550W unit, you're very limited in terms of GPU upgrade. RTX 4070 would be tops in there.

PC case is personal choice and not much to say about that one. It's a fishbowl case.

SSD (970 Evo), is very solid. Albeit a bit small capacity (500 GB), but should suffice for OS and few games.

HDD is cheap, extended storage. Only good to put pics/vids/music there. But it is slow read/write and not much point to put any games there. Else-ways, you'll die waiting for games to load.

RAM is good and it has plenty of it. Current day norm is 16GB but there it has it 32GB. So, you could do even some light 3D work. RGB is eyecandy and doesn't give more FPS. 3600 Mhz is good speed for that 3rd gen Ryzen, IF the EXPO holds, that is. If not, RAM should default to 2133/2666/2922 Mhz.

GPU, RTX 2070 Super, is good for 1080p gaming. Can do 1440p (2K) as well but latest games may drop the FPS to ~60 or so. And while it can do 4K as well, FPS would be low. So, best to pair it with 1080p monitor. Or when going with RTX 4060/Ti/4070, FPS in games improves a lot.

CPU cooler - 360mm rad. Plenty of cooling performance but a lot of unicorn puke on there as well. Also, do note that AIOs last 2-3 years (high end ones 3-5 years) before the pump on it goes bad and you need to replace the whole thing.

CPU - 3rd gen Ryzen. A bit old for today's standards but can manage.

MoBo - good X570 chipset, whereby you can upgrade the CPU to 5th gen Ryzen. E.g R7 5800X3D (tops that MoBo can support). Would give ~20% uplift in performance compared to R7 3700X.

All-in-all, for ~460 bucks, solid PC.


Do note that seller can't ask any money for Win11, since Win11 can not be sold to other people. Current owner owns Win11 and they should format all drives, before handing the PC over to you, whereby you then buy and install your own copy of Win11 to it.


Completely depends on a game, reso and in-game graphical settings.


Solid idea is to buy the baseline build and then upgrade it according to your needs. E.g need more FPS in GPU heavy games? Better GPU. Need more FPS in CPU heavy games? Better CPU.

Speaking of upgrades, here is comparison between default and possible max upgrade you can have, without replacing PSU;
(Default as baseline, possible upgrade as alternative. With better CPU, GPU and SSD.)

Userbenchmark PC Build Comparison

Baseline Bench: Game 104%, Desk 94%, Work 104%
CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X
GPU: Nvidia RTX 2070S (Super)
SSD: Samsung 970 Evo NVMe PCIe M.2 500GB
HDD: Seagate Barracuda 2TB (2016)
RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 3600 C18 2x16GB
MBD: Gigabyte GA-X570 GAMING X

Alternative Bench: Game 194%, Desk 107%, Work 187%
CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D
GPU: Nvidia RTX 4070
SSD: Samsung 970 Evo Plus NVMe PCIe M.2 2TB
HDD: Seagate Barracuda 2TB (2016)
RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 3600 C18 2x16GB
MBD: Gigabyte GA-X570 GAMING X


CPU - Cinebench 2024, AIDA64, Prime95. Take your pick.
GPU - Unigine Superposition. Default presets are good.
RAM - Memtest86. Will take a lot of time, since 4 full passes is acceptable, but will find out if there are RAM issues.
SSD - Samsung Magician. Has built-in benchmark, among other telemetry info.
HDD - CrystalDiskMark. Used to validate drives read/write performance. Can be used with Samsung SSD as well.

Thank you for the respond. I completely hate RGB and see it as unnecessary eye candy! and as for updating components I don't see myself doing that anytime soon (im broke). And I also don't like to seek out top of the line performance. A decent playable stable 70-100fps with no stutters does for me, I'm essentially looking for a pc version of a long lasting, reliable, minimal Toyota. I just want to run with what I have and only update what's necessary and priced within reason. Would you suggest this as the optimal mount for the AIO?

https://imgur.com/a/wY7hJnS

View: https://imgur.com/a/wY7hJnS


I was thinking of buying it, leaving the radiator up front but rotating the tubes to come out the bottom. And are there any way to know if this specific AIO can be refilled after more air fills up? or if there is a fan alternative you would suggest if I wanted to get of air cooler.

 

[Aeacus]

was thinking of buying it leaving the radiator up front but rotating the tubes to come out the bottom.

Front rad should have tubing at the bottom, since when tubing is at the top, the air from the rad can easily make it's way into the pump, creating bubbling noise and reducing pump cooling effectiveness.

Personally, i'd mount the rad on the top, in pull configuration. Easiest to maintain this way.

Reason seen here as well:
(At 3:45)

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UyC3lZ5WFMk#t=3m45s

And are there any way to know if this specific AIO can be refilled after more bubble fills up?

Only VERY few AIOs have fill port to fill them afterwards. Most, including the AIO in there, do not have fill port. So, there is no maintenance you can do. Other than cleaning the rad from dust and replacing the fans on the rad.

I, personally, prefer air coolers over AIOs any day of the week.

As far as AIOs vs air coolers go, you won't gain any cooling performance if you go with AIO over air cooler since both are cooled by ambient air.
For equal cooling performance between AIOs and air coolers, rad needs to be 240mm or 280mm. Smaller rads: 120mm and 140mm are almost always outperformed by mid-sized air coolers. Single slot rads are good in mini-ITX builds where you don't have enough CPU cooler clearance to install mid-sized CPU air cooler.

Here are the positive sides of both (air and AIO) CPU cooling methods;

Pros of air coolers:
less cost
less maintenance
less noise
far longer longevity
no leakage risks
doesn't take up case fan slots
additional cooling for the RAM
CPU cools down faster after heavy heat output

Pros of AIOs:
no RAM clearance issues*
no CPU clearance issues
CPU takes longer time to heat up during heavy heat output (about 30 mins)
* on some cases, top mounted rad can give RAM clearance issues

While how the CPU cooler looks inside the PC depends on a person. Some people prefer to see small AIO pump in the middle of their MoBo with tubing going to the rad while others prefer to see big heatsink with fans in the middle of their MoBo.

Main difference between AIO and air cooler is that with AIO, you'll get more noise at a higher cost while cooling performance remains the same.
Here's also one good article for you to read where former king of air coolers (Noctua NH-D15) was put against 5x high-end AIOs, including former king of AIOs (NZXT x61 Kraken),
link: http://www.relaxedtech.com/reviews/noctua/nh-d15-versus-closed-loop-liquid-coolers/1

Personally, i'd go with air coolers every day of the week. With same cooling performance, the pros of air coolers outweigh the pros of AIOs considerably. While, for me, the 3 main pros would be:
1. Less noise.
Since i like my PC to be quiet, i can't stand the loud noise AIO makes. Also, when air gets trapped inside the AIO (some AIOs are more prone to this than others), there's additional noise coming from inside the pump.
2. Longevity.
Cheaper AIOs usually last 2-3 years and high-end ones 4-5 years before you need to replace it. While with air coolers, their life expectancy is basically unlimited. Only thing that can go bad on an air cooler is the fan on it. If the fan dies, your CPU still has cooling in form of a big heatsink. Also, new 120mm or 140mm fan doesn't cost much and it's easy to replace one. While with AIOs, the main thing that usually goes bad is the pump itself. And when that happens, your CPU has no cooling whatsoever. Since you can't replace pump on an AIO, you need to buy whole new AIO to replace the old one out.
3. No leakage risks.
Since there's liquid circling inside the AIO, there is always a risk that your AIO can leak. While it's rare, it has happened. It's well known fact that liquids and electronics don't mix.

 

[2070s]

Front rad should have tubing at the bottom, since when tubing is at the top, the air from the rad can easily make it's way into the pump, creating bubbling noise and reducing pump cooling effectiveness.

Personally, i'd mount the rad on the top, in pull configuration. Easiest to maintain this way.

Reason seen here as well:
(At 3:45)

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UyC3lZ5WFMk#t=3m45s



Only VERY few AIOs have fill port to fill them afterwards. Most, including the AIO in there, do not have fill port. So, there is no maintenance you can do. Other than cleaning the rad from dust and replacing the fans on the rad.

I, personally, prefer air coolers over AIOs any day of the week.

As far as AIOs vs air coolers go, you won't gain any cooling performance if you go with AIO over air cooler since both are cooled by ambient air.
For equal cooling performance between AIOs and air coolers, rad needs to be 240mm or 280mm. Smaller rads: 120mm and 140mm are almost always outperformed by mid-sized air coolers. Single slot rads are good in mini-ITX builds where you don't have enough CPU cooler clearance to install mid-sized CPU air cooler.

Here are the positive sides of both (air and AIO) CPU cooling methods;

Pros of air coolers:
less cost
less maintenance
less noise
far longer longevity
no leakage risks
doesn't take up case fan slots
additional cooling for the RAM
CPU cools down faster after heavy heat output

Pros of AIOs:
no RAM clearance issues*
no CPU clearance issues
CPU takes longer time to heat up during heavy heat output (about 30 mins)
* on some cases, top mounted rad can give RAM clearance issues

While how the CPU cooler looks inside the PC depends on a person. Some people prefer to see small AIO pump in the middle of their MoBo with tubing going to the rad while others prefer to see big heatsink with fans in the middle of their MoBo.

Main difference between AIO and air cooler is that with AIO, you'll get more noise at a higher cost while cooling performance remains the same.
Here's also one good article for you to read where former king of air coolers (Noctua NH-D15) was put against 5x high-end AIOs, including former king of AIOs (NZXT x61 Kraken),
link: http://www.relaxedtech.com/reviews/noctua/nh-d15-versus-closed-loop-liquid-coolers/1

Personally, i'd go with air coolers every day of the week. With same cooling performance, the pros of air coolers outweigh the pros of AIOs considerably. While, for me, the 3 main pros would be:
1. Less noise.
Since i like my PC to be quiet, i can't stand the loud noise AIO makes. Also, when air gets trapped inside the AIO (some AIOs are more prone to this than others), there's additional noise coming from inside the pump.
2. Longevity.
Cheaper AIOs usually last 2-3 years and high-end ones 4-5 years before you need to replace it. While with air coolers, their life expectancy is basically unlimited. Only thing that can go bad on an air cooler is the fan on it. If the fan dies, your CPU still has cooling in form of a big heatsink. Also, new 120mm or 140mm fan doesn't cost much and it's easy to replace one. While with AIOs, the main thing that usually goes bad is the pump itself. And when that happens, your CPU has no cooling whatsoever. Since you can't replace pump on an AIO, you need to buy whole new AIO to replace the old one out.
3. No leakage risks.
Since there's liquid circling inside the AIO, there is always a risk that your AIO can leak. While it's rare, it has happened. It's well known fact that liquids and electronics don't mix.

ya im starting to change my mind on this pc to now hearing more about the AIO and maintenance. This is a 2nd pc I was looking at first for a while but decided not to pursue because it had a 2060 super and a i5 10400f now idk the equivalence for that to amd cpu. What are your thoughts on this?

Mercari: Your Marketplace

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www.mercari.com

 

[Aeacus]

This is a 2nd pc I was looking at first for a while but decided not to pursue because it had a 2060 super and a i5 10400f now idk the equivalence for that to amd cpu. What are your thoughts on this?

Looked the link and this Intel PC, IMO, is not worth the ~400 bucks asked of it. Maybe 200 bucks.

Sure, it does have i5-10400F but R7 3700X is quite a bit better CPU,
comparison: https://technical.city/en/cpu/Ryzen-7-3700X-vs-Core-i5-10400F

Ryzen 5 3500 would be equal to Intel i5-10400F.

i5-10400F did came with Intel stock CPU cooler, making the aftermarket air cooler on top of it, waste of money. Sure, a bit lower CPU temps but Intel stock CPU cooler would've sufficed as well.

The list says it has 16GB of RAM. Doesn't say at which speed the RAM is. Could be anywhere from 2133 Mhz to 2933 Mhz. Also, based on the product pic, it only has 1x 16GB DIMM in there, running in single-channel (which is far slower, compared to running 2x RAM DIMMs in dual-channel). And that too is plain green PCB. So, most likely very cheap value RAM. Not even heatsink on the RAM (not that RAM needs it), let alone RGB LEDs for eyecandy.

MoBo is bottom of the barrel. H410 chipset is as cheap/barebones as it gets. AMD equivalent for barebones would be A320 and A520 chipsets. But the AMD build you're looking at, has much better chipset MoBo in it, X570.

SSDs. Listing says 1x M.2 Gen 3 256GB SSD and 1x SATA SSD 1TB.
What the M.2 drive is - 0 word. Most likely very cheap, low end drive. SATA SSD seems to be Crucial MX500 1TB (based on the picture). That is actually good SSD. Samsung SATA SSD (e.g 870 Evo) would be better, but Crucial MX500 is still good.
Even i have MX500 1TB SSD in my build (works well, until you don't fill it with data. But if you do, it will slow down.).

For GPU, RTX 2060 Super is a bit weaker than RTX 2070 Super in AMD build.
Comparison: https://gpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Nvidia-RTX-2060S-Super-vs-Nvidia-RTX-2070S-Super/4049vs4048

PC case. Like i said, personal preference. But this one has plexiglass side panel, while AMD build has it tempered glass. Most people prefer TG side panel over plexiglass. Don't know about you.

PSU.... Yes, it has Seasonic in it. But it is S12II-430. It was good PSU, 15 years ago. But at today's date and time, this group regulated PSU should be replaced ASAP. While the PSU can work even today (Seasonic is known to make reliable PSUs), S12II series were released back in 2009. That makes this PSU at least 10+ years old. If not 15 years old. So, due to the age alone, i'd replace it. Btw, S12II-430 came with 3 years of warranty back in 2009.
And another reason to replace the PSU, besides age, is that the current build, especially GPU, is pushing the 430W PSU hard. RTX 2060 Super is 175W GPU and i, personally, would use 650W unit with it. Nvidia suggests minimum 450W unit with the GPU. But PSU in the build is 430W, not even meeting the minimum requirement.


With all that said, AMD build at ~460 bucks is far better option, since you have easy upgrade paths. And you do not have to deal with an AIO. With as little as 34 bucks, you can replace the AIO with king of air coolers: Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE,
pcpp: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/hY...sassin-120-se-6617-cfm-cpu-cooler-pa120-se-d3

120 SE is twin-tower big boy air cooler, that will fit into the PC case just fine.

So, maybe you can even strike a deal with AMD build seller, whereby they take out the AIO and keep it for themselves, while knocking ~100 bucks off from the PC price. And you can then buy 120 SE for 34 bucks to cool the CPU.

 

[2070s]

Looked the link and this Intel PC, IMO, is not worth the ~400 bucks asked of it. Maybe 200 bucks.

Sure, it does have i5-10400F but R7 3700X is quite a bit better CPU,
comparison: https://technical.city/en/cpu/Ryzen-7-3700X-vs-Core-i5-10400F

Ryzen 5 3500 would be equal to Intel i5-10400F.

i5-10400F did came with Intel stock CPU cooler, making the aftermarket air cooler on top of it, waste of money. Sure, a bit lower CPU temps but Intel stock CPU cooler would've sufficed as well.

The list says it has 16GB of RAM. Doesn't say at which speed the RAM is. Could be anywhere from 2133 Mhz to 2933 Mhz. Also, based on the product pic, it only has 1x 16GB DIMM in there, running in single-channel (which is far slower, compared to running 2x RAM DIMMs in dual-channel). And that too is plain green PCB. So, most likely very cheap value RAM. Not even heatsink on the RAM (not that RAM needs it), let alone RGB LEDs for eyecandy.

MoBo is bottom of the barrel. H410 chipset is as cheap/barebones as it gets. AMD equivalent for barebones would be A320 and A520 chipsets. But the AMD build you're looking at, has much better chipset MoBo in it, X570.

SSDs. Listing says 1x M.2 Gen 3 256GB SSD and 1x SATA SSD 1TB.
What the M.2 drive is - 0 word. Most likely very cheap, low end drive. SATA SSD seems to be Crucial MX500 1TB (based on the picture). That is actually good SSD. Samsung SATA SSD (e.g 870 Evo) would be better, but Crucial MX500 is still good.
Even i have MX500 1TB SSD in my build (works well, until you don't fill it with data. But if you do, it will slow down.).

For GPU, RTX 2060 Super is a bit weaker than RTX 2070 Super in AMD build.
Comparison: https://gpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Nvidia-RTX-2060S-Super-vs-Nvidia-RTX-2070S-Super/4049vs4048

PC case. Like i said, personal preference. But this one has plexiglass side panel, while AMD build has it tempered glass. Most people prefer TG side panel over plexiglass. Don't know about you.

PSU.... Yes, it has Seasonic in it. But it is S12II-430. It was good PSU, 15 years ago. But at today's date and time, this group regulated PSU should be replaced ASAP. While the PSU can work even today (Seasonic is known to make reliable PSUs), S12II series were released back in 2009. That makes this PSU at least 10+ years old. If not 15 years old. So, due to the age alone, i'd replace it. Btw, S12II-430 came with 3 years of warranty back in 2009.
And another reason to replace the PSU, besides age, is that the current build, especially GPU, is pushing the 430W PSU hard. RTX 2060 Super is 175W GPU and i, personally, would use 650W unit with it. Nvidia suggests minimum 450W unit with the GPU. But PSU in the build is 430W, not even meeting the minimum requirement.


With all that said, AMD build at ~460 bucks is far better option, since you have easy upgrade paths. And you do not have to deal with an AIO. With as little as 34 bucks, you can replace the AIO with king of air coolers: Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE,
pcpp: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/hY...sassin-120-se-6617-cfm-cpu-cooler-pa120-se-d3

120 SE is twin-tower big boy air cooler, that will fit into the PC case just fine.

So, maybe you can even strike a deal with AMD build seller, whereby they take out the AIO and keep it for themselves, while knocking ~100 bucks off from the PC price. And you can then buy 120 SE for 34 bucks to cool the CPU.

I have already over stayed your help now Im truly in debt. So can you just do me one last favor and tell me your opinion on these a 1-10 rating or even a "yes" "no" go or don't go for it will do. I don't wanna take more of your time.

1. https://www.mercari.com/us/item/m25098300630
my doubts with this is that it only has one ram stick idk if this is what is compatible with or im just getting bs, 450w doesn't seem sufficient enough power for this and is i3 line even if a 10th gen decent for gaming in 2024? talked em down to $395 for it.

2. https://www.mercari.com/us/item/m93667038103/?ref=search_results
Seems decent i just don't know what bad im looking for here. i7 is already a good cpu for all ik even if its 8th but idk about that psu tho.

3. https://www.mercari.com/us/item/m24441886515/ seems like a solid to me, thoughts?

4.https://www.mercari.com/us/item/m33868244659/ this ones def good but I think its over priced or maybe its just me


And do you have any website you would suggest to compare pc parts? something like userbenchmark perhaps even more accurate and credible cause I keep reading they are biased to intel. And other than ebay or amazon do you have any other website where I can find more decent deals? second hands fine.

I really wish more people helped out people like me. I'm just out of words I was legit going to buy that intel 10400f build had my card not been rejected and their website bugged multiple times like some divine intervention 😂 . Feeling sad the whole time, I have really just been taking the words of sellers being honest and deciding my opinion on the pc based on what little I know. And even than it was pcpartpickers that notified me of the low watts on that PSU. Thank so much for your help.

 

[2070s]

Thanks to your Aeacus I ended up suggesting a price change from the guy in exchange for the AIO cpu cooler from $390 to his given range of $360-370. Paid em $370 cause bro deserved it and with tax and processing scam from mercari 💀💀 to a total of $432.42. Bro did not even want the AIO cpu cooler and just gave me the price lowered. I will def invest into a https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09LGY38L4


EDIT: Btw aeacus idk if technical city is a trustable source to you but there is no way these numbers its shoot out can be accurate

https://imgur.com/a/q8Lrip0

if this is accurate than what i've seen in userbench is wrong?

 

[Aeacus]

if this is accurate than what i've seen in userbench is wrong?

Userbenchmark is Intel biased and do not compare AMD and Intel CPUs there. Since if you do, Intel CPUs are favored way too much, while AMD CPUs are downplayed.

But Userbenchmark is still good when comparing Intel vs Intel, or AMD vs AMD. And same goes for their GPU, SSD, RAM and HDD comparisons. Only Intel vs AMD CPU comparison is biased. Hence why i linked the CPU comparison from different site.

So can you just do me one last favor and tell me your opinion on these a 1-10 rating or even a "yes" "no" go or don't go for it will do. I don't wanna take more of your time.

While you already bought the PC, i'll still give my opinions on the 4 additional ones you listed, since maybe there is someone else who looks at those builds and decides to maybe buy them (since TH forums is public forums).

1. https://www.mercari.com/us/item/m25098300630
my doubts with this is that it only has one ram stick idk if this is what is compatible with or im just getting bs, 450w doesn't seem sufficient enough power for this and is i3 line even if a 10th gen decent for gaming in 2024? talked em down to $395 for it.

GPU - listing says it has Radeon RX 7600 XT in there, but picture does not match the GPU in the listing.
Gigabyte RX 7600 XT looks like so: https://www.techpowerup.com/gpu-specs/gigabyte-rx-7600-xt-gaming-oc.b11482
While what is seen on the picture, is Gigabyte RX 7600. Looking like so and matching pics on listing: https://www.techpowerup.com/gpu-specs/gigabyte-rx-7600-gaming-oc.b11212
So, seller lies about GPU.

CPU cooler - Waste of money since i3-10100F came with Intel stock CPU cooler. And that weak CPU does not need better CPU cooler. Better CPU cooler there is mainly for eyecandy.

CPU - i3-10100F was weak 4 years ago, when it launched. Today, it is even worse. Only good for office/ web browsing. But for gaming, it won't be sufficient.

MoBo - Not said in listing, but based on image, it has AsRock B560M-HDV board in it. B560 chipset isn't great (e.g like Z570) but isn't bad either (e.g like H510). It's mediocre chipset, good enough for most people.
MoBo specs: https://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/B560M-HDV R3.0/index.us.asp
But MoBo having only 2 RAM slots, makes RAM upgrade difficult.

RAM - 1x stick of unknown DDR4. Not said in listing anything about it. Capacity or frequency. Nada. But based on images, it is Patriot Viper Elite DDR4 3200 Mhz RAM. And that RAM was sold either as 2x 4GB set or 2x 8GB set. But since build has only one stick of it, it could very well be 1x 4GB stick in there.
Here's how the RAM looks like when it was sold: https://pcpartpicker.com/products/compare/DwRFf7,vRQRsY/

PSU - Some Gigabyte 450W 80+ Bronze unit. 0 word about what the PSU model is. But based on that info, it only can be Gigabyte P450B, since that is only Gigabyte unit that is 450W and 80+ Bronze. This is a low quality PSU, borderline crap quality.
Here's how the PSU looks like: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/LZ...80-bronze-certified-atx-power-supply-gp-p450b

All-in-all, it is an office PC. Not even worth to buy it as gaming PC and upgrade it to gaming PC. Since it needs new: RAM, PSU, CPU. 100 bucks for it, tops 150 bucks.
Listing says that price isn't negotiable, but somehow, price has dropped 100 bucks from the time it was initially listed. Still ~430 bucks is way too much for it.

2. https://www.mercari.com/us/item/m93667038103/?ref=search_results
Seems decent i just don't know what bad im looking for here. i7 is already a good cpu for all ik even if its 8th but idk about that psu tho.

GPU - It does NOT have RTX 2080 in there. Pic clearly tells that GeForce GTX GPU is in there, and not RTX.
After researching what MoBo is in there, it turns out that this PC is prebuilt. It is HP Omen 875 Desktop and GPU in there is GTX 1060 3GB.
Specs: https://cravingpcs.com/products/hp-...-wifi-bluetooth-windows-10-professional-64bit

HP Omen 875 was sold with RTX 2080 as well, but if you look the pics of the listing and compare it to the pics of HP Omen 875 with GTX 1060 3GB in it, you'll see that the GPUs wil match.
So, this seller also lies about GPU and big time.

PSU in prebuilt PCs is usually low quality and in this case, it has HP own branding on it. With this, it is impossible to tell what the PSU actually is.

100 bucks for that prebuilt would be tops. At current day, GTX 1060 can push ~40 FPS on 1080p, but this isn't considered as gaming PC. Light games work on it just fine, but not the latest AAA games. GTX 1060 came in 2 variants, 3GB VRAM and 6GB VRAM. But the specs i found, says it has 3GB VRAM version of GTX 1060 in it. So, any game that needs 4GB of VRAM, will not work on it.

3. https://www.mercari.com/us/item/m24441886515/ seems like a solid to me, thoughts?

GPU - RTX 3050 is weak and not for proper gaming. It can do 1080p with ~55 FPS tops. But for more enjoyable experience, in-game graphical settings must be lowered. It is good for light gaming, especially since it's paired with Core i3. Also, good for office PC.

PSU - No word about make and model. But knowing what PSU is in there, is very important. This PC is another prebuilt, by iBuyPower. And PSUs in prebuilts are usually low quality.

SSD - Some random 500 GB M.2 drive. I see green PCB on M.2 drive, so it most likely is some very cheap, low end drive.

~200 bucks would be decent for it.

4. https://www.mercari.com/us/item/m33868244659/ this ones def good but I think its over priced or maybe its just me

This is actually the one that lies the most.

Listing description says they upgraded to RTX 4080, but RTX 4080 isn't nowhere to be seen. Also, GPU upgrade doesn't require completely new PC. But based on the images, they have at least 2 desktop PCs.

1st image shows a unicorn puke build with Asus Rog Strix RTX 3090 GPU in there. 2nd and 3rd images show EVGA RTX 3080 GPU marketing pictures and 4th pic shows plenty of hardware retail boxes. I see two GPUs: EVGA RTX 3080, Asus RTX 3090, two AIOs and one air cooler.

Here, i think that listing only sells the EVGA RTX 3080 GPU. 500 bucks for RTX 3080 is a lot, since that GPU used goes for ~350.

And other than ebay or amazon do you have any other website where I can find more decent deals? second hands fine.

For 2nd hand, Ebay is main source. Craigslist and Facebook Marketplace are other two. Though, i deal with brand new components since used items are sold "as is", without warranty and they may not even work. So, brand new is better, since it comes with warranty and price is usually fixed. But used prices fluctuate wildly.

Oh, my rule of thumb is, used price is 50% of brand new price, regardless the hardware. Because used hardware doesn't come with a warranty and one has to take a risk buying used.

Regarding GPU prices, you can look this site, that tracks the accurate pricing of GPUs,
e.g RTX 3080 pricing: https://bestvaluegpu.com/history/new-and-used-rtx-3080-price-history-and-specs/

And from here, you can see GPU hierarchy, to see how GPUs fare against each other,
article: https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/gpu-hierarchy,4388.html

I have really just been taking the words of sellers being honest

If you trust seller, you can get scammed, easily. Better to ask 3rd opinion from the one who isn't biased. E.g like here in the forums. I'm not affiliated with you or any of the sellers, so, i say things how they are. Be it good or bad.

But sellers usually try to up the price, to get most for their old hardware. And for a person who doesn't know the specs of the hardware or the current pricing, it is easy to overpay for old hardware.

 

[IBuyNoPower]

I have already over stayed your help now Im truly in debt. So can you just do me one last favor and tell me your opinion on these a 1-10 rating or even a "yes" "no" go or don't go for it will do. I don't wanna take more of your time.

1. https://www.mercari.com/us/item/m25098300630
my doubts with this is that it only has one ram stick idk if this is what is compatible with or im just getting bs, 450w doesn't seem sufficient enough power for this and is i3 line even if a 10th gen decent for gaming in 2024? talked em down to $395 for it.

2. https://www.mercari.com/us/item/m93667038103/?ref=search_results
Seems decent i just don't know what bad im looking for here. i7 is already a good cpu for all ik even if its 8th but idk about that psu tho.

3. https://www.mercari.com/us/item/m24441886515/ seems like a solid to me, thoughts?

4.https://www.mercari.com/us/item/m33868244659/ this ones def good but I think its over priced or maybe its just me


And do you have any website you would suggest to compare pc parts? something like userbenchmark perhaps even more accurate and credible cause I keep reading they are biased to intel. And other than ebay or amazon do you have any other website where I can find more decent deals? second hands fine.

I really wish more people helped out people like me. I'm just out of words I was legit going to buy that intel 10400f build had my card not been rejected and their website bugged multiple times like some divine intervention 😂 . Feeling sad the whole time, I have really just been taking the words of sellers being honest and deciding my opinion on the pc based on what little I know. And even than it was pcpartpickers that notified me of the low watts on that PSU. Thank so much for your help.

I seen the pc you bought https://www.mercari.com/us/item/m69746052079/
it was on my cart before you bought it 😊 (cancel so I can buy it ) /s. But on serious note I would suggest double check that GPU cause it don't seem like a 2070 super. Atleast not one from gigabyte

 

[Aeacus]

But on serious note I would suggest double check that GPU cause it don't seem like a 2070 super. Atleast not one from gigabyte

Images show EVGA GPU in there (3rd pic, hard to make out EVGA logo on GPU, but possible).

And it looks to be EVGA RTX 2070 Super KO,
specs + pics: https://www.techpowerup.com/gpu-specs/evga-rtx-2070-super-ko.b7658

it was on my cart before you bought it 😊 (cancel so I can buy it ) /s.

When lingering around for too much and waiting for stars to align, you'll miss out on deals/good offers. But it's not the last PC on earth, there are plenty of 2nd hand rigs to buy.

 

[IBuyNoPower]

Images show EVGA GPU in there (3rd pic, hard to make out EVGA logo on GPU, but possible).

And it looks to be EVGA RTX 2070 Super KO,
specs + pics: https://www.techpowerup.com/gpu-specs/evga-rtx-2070-super-ko.b7658


When lingering around for too much and waiting for stars to align, you'll miss out on deals/good offers. But it's not the last PC on earth, there are plenty of 2nd hand rigs to buy.

Ya I was lingering around it from hesitation 😅idk if that would be considered better or worst for @2070s. Wish there was a forum section called "thoughts on this pc?" so folks like me can post about pc built and get genuine answers.

 

[2070s]

I seen the pc you bought https://www.mercari.com/us/item/m69746052079/
it was on my cart before you bought it 😊 (cancel so I can buy it ) /s. But on serious note I would suggest double check that GPU cause it don't seem like a 2070 super. Atleast not one from gigabyte

sorry 😱 I will let you know if it falls through which might be likely. The seller was talking about selling this one and buying an upgraded pc and after I bought his pc, guy told me yesterday he might have to keep the thing for a few more days cause "his new pc was having issues" mhm right.... the new pc just HAPPEN to arrive the day after I bought his thing 💀ok.

 

[2070s]

Images show EVGA GPU in there (3rd pic, hard to make out EVGA logo on GPU, but possible).

And it looks to be EVGA RTX 2070 Super KO,
specs + pics: https://www.techpowerup.com/gpu-specs/evga-rtx-2070-super-ko.b7658


When lingering around for too much and waiting for stars to align, you'll miss out on deals/good offers. But it's not the last PC on earth, there are plenty of 2nd hand rigs to buy.

Aeacus mind if I post some pics of the pc for you here, after I get my hands on it? I just wanna make sure my guy isn't pulling a fast one and switch up some parts or if smt came damaged. I will probably use userbenchmark and stuff too make sure too. I will try to test up the stress test stuff you suggested but I still don't know how to check bios settings or drivers info either. And finally rotate the rad.

 

[Aeacus]

Aeacus mind if I post some pics of the pc for you here, after I get my hands on it?

Sure, go ahead.

I still don't know how to check bios settings or drivers info either.

BIOS settings can be reverted back to factory default by clearing CMOS.

Though, when system runs good, there isn't much point in doing that. Only instability would come from manual CPU OC, that may have been done already, but clearing CMOS reverts it back to default/auto.

As for drivers, well... for that, i already said:

Current owner owns Win11 and they should format all drives, before handing the PC over to you, whereby you then buy and install your own copy of Win11 to it.

Reason to format everything and starting a new, are several:
* removes all bloatware/malware from the system (e.g previous owner could've installed keylogger into the system, which then will sniff out all usr/psw you input in the system).
* with clean Win install, software issues would also be removed, whereby you then install the drivers by yourself. This way, you have absolute control over what is going on software wise and there wouldn't be lingering "surprises".
* old Win installation is owned by old owner. Win license can not be transferred over to another person. So, if you want your PC to be yours, you need to make new Win installation. During that process, you can also choose your PC name and username for your profile.

And finally rotate the rad.

Nothing complex there. Rad is held on by screws. But when removing rad, don't pull it hard, since fan wires might not have much lead. So, you may need to unplug fan wires before pulling out the rad.

 

[2070s]

Sure, go ahead.


BIOS settings can be reverted back to factory default by clearing CMOS.

Though, when system runs good, there isn't much point in doing that. Only instability would come from manual CPU OC, that may have been done already, but clearing CMOS reverts it back to default/auto.

As for drivers, well... for that, i already said:

Reason to format everything and starting a new, are several:
* removes all bloatware/malware from the system (e.g previous owner could've installed keylogger into the system, which then will sniff out all usr/psw you input in the system).
* with clean Win install, software issues would also be removed, whereby you then install the drivers by yourself. This way, you have absolute control over what is going on software wise and there wouldn't be lingering "surprises".
* old Win installation is owned by old owner. Win license can not be transferred over to another person. So, if you want your PC to be yours, you need to make new Win installation. During that process, you can also choose your PC name and username for your profile.


Nothing complex there. Rad is held on by screws. But when removing rad, don't pull it hard, since fan wires might not have much lead. So, you may need to unplug fan wires before pulling out the rad.

-CMOS. alright I will add that to my list of things to check out. 👍interest but would you say updating drives worth it, even if just for the updating upto the current/latest version of mobo? if I reset all setting to default with CMOS. I don't expect to do any "hardcore gaming" either. I honestly don't know much about bios just passing mentions from youtubers I watched talking their gibberish about it.

-Ya malwares & keylogers were at the top of concerns buying old parts specially parts coming from a guy I barely even know for a day, since the seller already lied about the manufacturer of the GPU being gigabyte but I dont think it will affect performance much in the big picture of things. I will probably format the drives and try reinstall windows os like you said I dont wanna take the guy words for it. These two seem credible and through enough to follow for what I need. Thoughts?

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZsMdXlPIgYs

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xhHtHMQygzE&t=232s


-I also REALLY want to integrate some if not all of my old pc parts into this new one to lessen any e-waste or value I throw out. One of my other big concerns I had with buying a pc what will happened to my basically e-waste junk trooper that served me well for ~6 yrs . Idk if I can just remove the HDD and SSD from the old one and it be a "plug and play" type of deal, can this mobo take 2 of my old rams too? things already 32 gigs how far can this go? 🤔 idk if it got 4 slots or if adding 2 much inferior rams with 2 decent ones will bottleneck and break performance. Anything I can salvage without costing performance will be worth it for me. All this stuff just clouding my mind rn.

Current pc, brace your eyes for the rats nest shipping directly from Amazon refurbish😁

https://imgur.com/a/QnERzKw

View: https://imgur.com/a/QnERzKw



-Btw do the radiator fans go behind it or before it? is it case > 3 fans > rad or case > rad > 3 fans?