[SOLVED] Graphics card cooling

[LunaticLooter]

Hello!

I've been having some temp problems with my graphics card, and decided to turn to the community here, for guidance and help.
It all started with my 2080Ti getting really hot, in the 95-96 celcius range (203-204 f). I decided to attempt installing a Kraken G12 on it, to see if that would help. On the GPU itself, it did, at least in the beginning. It dropped from the 90's range, down to around 70-75 (158-167), but lately it started getting hotter again.

So I installed HWmonitor, so I could check the other sensors on the card while playing games. Results in the uploaded image here.
First lines are 5 minutes after booting (just in windows) the second and third are from 10 and 20 minutes respectively in a game.
The highest I've seen it go, which I don't have screenshots of, are 98 (208,4) on the hot spot. Screenshot of some samples here:



I'm going to assume that's far, far from a safe temp range, but I'm at a loss as to what I can really do about it.
The GPU is an Asus GeForce® RTX 2080Ti 11GB ROG Strix card, now with the mounted G12, along with an NZXT Kraken x53 AIO cooler.
The case is a Corsair Carbide 600C inverse, and I can't think of ways to get air cooling to fit in that case, to get more air around the GFX.

So, I guess my questions are:
Should I change to a full pre-built aftermarket cooler for it and, if so, which models would you guys suggest?
I've been under the impression that buying and mounting small heatsinks wouldn't help in this case, because the heat still can't properly "escape" the card, as there's no fans that point directly to/from the area?
Are there other relatively easy-to-mount cooling units that could be used for the rest of the card, where the G12 is insufficient?

Thanks for your time, if you made it through my rambling

 

[Crosslhs82x2]

I quess I got lucky getting a used 2080 ti that doesn't run hot.
In the pics I linked you can see the my initial results.
The seller had a ek quantum vector wb on it but removed it to return the card to stock with new pads, and Corsair tm50 paste for selling.
I got the 2080 ti, ek wb and ek wb backplate for $900 he also gave me a copy of the original receipt from Micro Center
When I reregistered it last Saturday with evga it still had 204 days left under warranty.

As to undervolting it has helped my gtx 1070 ti and my gtx 1060 6gb in a Asus Fx504 gaming laptop.

Currently I have the 2080 set @ .987v
Core clk set 1?? Something showing pretty steady 1995mhz.
https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/64590877

https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/64591175
I will get some time with Ghost Recon Wildlands tomorrow evening.

Would help if case manufacturers or somebody come out with expansion slot filters / fan adapters.
But would still need a filter for those rectangular grids they also add,

 

[Strictlybiz09]

Yes, that's awesome! My next build, I'll have to research a little as I want to do a custom loop, but right now I'm afraid I'll destroy all components.. (lol)
Water block is definitely the way to go.. That's when you drool seeing someone else temps in the single digits like yours... (lol)
The 2080ti is an amazing card.. Its just unobtainable right now. I did see an update that GPU's will go down in price soon, then I'll grab the 3080, but only at retail price for what its worth.
I'll save your thread as I am sure I'll be asking you advice about it. But, excellent job on your build.. Gotta shout out those that succeeded!!

Adding a screenshot in game... the way I have my bios setup is that with a Load Line Calibration set at 1 - Low, my computer will dial back if cpu/gpu gets high.. Current SS shows 4.0ghz, but its set at 4.4ghz when its needed.. Looks like this game is CPU focused so that's good.. Temps are still low at 144 fps running at 2k settings. My GPU in MSI Afterburner is set at 1696mhz @0.850mv. I had it clocked at 2024mhz, but higher temps at 1.2mv with the same speed so its not worth it.

 

[Crosslhs82x2]

These mite help fighting dust.
https://www.newegg.com/p/1W8-01A3-00001

 

[LunaticLooter]

As someone who doesn't own any powertools, creating fan mounts in the side panel will be relatively difficult, though. I'd have to pay a company to do it, or find someone to do it "orange" as we say here in denmark (tax avoidance is bad. I'd never. Really. Obviously).
But then we're likely half-a-new-case on the price range already, so it might be better to look at alternatives for the case.

So far, I've been looking at the Lian Li Lancool II mesh performance, and the Fractal Design Meshify 2 Compact. It's a jungle out there, with PC cases, though.

 

[Crosslhs82x2]

A new case would certainly make it easier.

So you just said regular air flow fans on the x53 ( that could be part of the problem )
It wouldn't hurt to invest in a couple Sp fans
(Static Pressure) which will push or pull air through the rad betted.
There are many different sp fan that can work but when it come down to fans for rads I use Noctua's Ippc 3000rpm line.
But they aren't cheap at about $25-28 usd each.
https://noctua.at/en/nf-f12-industrialppc-3000-pwm/specification

Same thing for the 140mm as well.
Just know at full blast they are loud.
But for me I will put up with more noise as long as it is getting the job done.

It mite not hurt to try a pair of these fisrt.

 

[LunaticLooter]

A new case would certainly make it easier.

So you just said regular air flow fans on the x53 ( that could be part of the problem )
It wouldn't hurt to invest in a couple Sp fans
(Static Pressure) which will push or pull air through the rad betted.
There are many different sp fan that can work but when it come down to fans for rads I use Noctua's Ippc 3000rpm line.
But they aren't cheap at about $25-28 usd each.
https://noctua.at/en/nf-f12-industrialppc-3000-pwm/specification

Same thing for the 140mm as well.
Just know at full blast they are loud.
But for me I will put up with more noise as long as it is getting the job done.

It mite not hurt to try a pair of these fisrt.

The fans mounted on the X53 are the default ones, which is the Aer P 1200mm fans. They are SP fans, so should be fine with those, without further cost.

 

[Crosslhs82x2]

Ok
When you said airflow started thinking you put just some regular case fans on.
Ya those are good.

 

[Crosslhs82x2]

If I ever decide to do a custom loop for the 2080, I can mount a 280mm in my front and I already have a pair of 140mm Noctua Ippc from having them on a corsair h110i.
I mite do a push/pull as thinking of a 45mm thick rad.

I Have a corsair H150i Elite Capellix on the 3600x at top.

 

[Strictlybiz09]

The fans mounted on the X53 are the default ones, which is the Aer P 1200mm fans. They are SP fans, so should be fine with those, without further cost.

Do your case some justice if you want to keep it and review, the Arctic Freezer II 360. Your case is named inverse for a reason. The whole design concept was to suck all of the air out vs. having more air come in. The only air intake should in the back. All others should be exhaust i.e. front and bottom. The bottom I'd have a 360mm AIO on the CPU as exhaust, the front I'd have a 280mm AIO on the GPU as exhaust, the back I'd have a 140mm high airflow fan at the back. The artic 360 comes with 3 high static pressure fans and they are dead quiet at max speed. That 3000rpm fan you have is prob the loudest fan Ive heard to date for a case fan.. Go with a Noctua 140mm in the back. They make excellent fans with high cfm airflow. Otherwise, get a new case and look at the Lian Li PC-01 dynamic mini/XL. Best case in my opinion (mini) right now on size, looks and cooling.

 

[Crosslhs82x2]

A new case would certainly give you more options for better airflow.