The H500 is expected to be released in Q3, so I was wondering what is the best fan setup for it. At the convention, the case had the top 3 fan slots as 3x 120mm intakes, the front 2 as intake and only 1 140mm exhaust. Would this setup provide good airflow? Or should I have the top 3 as exhaust so I get negative pressure? I would be using an air cooler just so you know but I also don't know which air cooler to pick, I would be ok with getting an NH-D15 but it's quite ugly and I don't think that it would go well with a full RGB build.
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HAF H500 Best fan setup and Air cooler recommendations
- Thread starter Tmas_
- Start date
Are you talking about h500p from cooler master? Cause that has two front 200mm intakes and a 140 exhaust. You should not even need top fans. The top 3 they included i think to demonstrate liquid cooler compatibility where you could fit a radiator (obviously it's going to be a waste to try to fit it up front and replace 2x200 rgb fans so top is preferred). If you're going for air cooling, leave top off or set the last fan or two last fans to spin, to balance out massive intake from the 2x200 front so overall you have balanced CFM, slightly positive. The nearest top fan shouldn't spin as you then shortcircuit intake and exhaust flow without getting the chance to cool any components and that's a waste.
- Dec 26, 2012
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Fan setup depends on cooler setup. If you have a radiator, good bet it'll go on top. Maybe in front. You'll only need 2x fans as opposites to what the rad is doing. So if it's push/pull intake, use 2x up top as exhaust, that's it. Or vice versa.
If you have an air cooler, it depends on the cooler. Using a tower like the hyper212, you'll use the rear exhaust and a single top exhaust. If you use a broadcast/downdraft cooler like a Noctua nh-9i then use 2x on top exhaust, with 2x front intakes.
The only time you'll need a rear exhaust is with a tower or if you decide to use a single rad and stick one there.
The one thing about that ugly tan on those Noctua coolers that's actually quite remarkable is the color. It changes better than a chameleon with any color RGB other than bright white.
5x intakes and 1x exhaust will create a positive pressure system not negative. The downside to that is there's nowhere for the heat to go, it's constantly recycled. It was probably mounted like that to keep exhausted air low so customers/consumers/interested parties didn't get a face full of heat from 3x top exhaust fans. Generally that setup wouldn't be a good idea for any gpu heavy gaming pc.
If you have an air cooler, it depends on the cooler. Using a tower like the hyper212, you'll use the rear exhaust and a single top exhaust. If you use a broadcast/downdraft cooler like a Noctua nh-9i then use 2x on top exhaust, with 2x front intakes.
The only time you'll need a rear exhaust is with a tower or if you decide to use a single rad and stick one there.
The one thing about that ugly tan on those Noctua coolers that's actually quite remarkable is the color. It changes better than a chameleon with any color RGB other than bright white.
5x intakes and 1x exhaust will create a positive pressure system not negative. The downside to that is there's nowhere for the heat to go, it's constantly recycled. It was probably mounted like that to keep exhausted air low so customers/consumers/interested parties didn't get a face full of heat from 3x top exhaust fans. Generally that setup wouldn't be a good idea for any gpu heavy gaming pc.
- Dec 26, 2012
- 30,760
- 4,577
- 142,790
Rear-exhaust.
Top-exhaust.
Front-intake.
Floor-intake.
Deviation = fans fighting, cancelation, recycling air or circulatory patterns that really kill air flow and result in a bunch of noise with ineffective cooling, higher temps on both the cpu and gpu. Flooding a case with air does nothing after a while as that air just gets warmer, reducing efficiency of the heatsinks, raising temps, in a vicious circle.
https://youtu.be/8OmkmluAYAQ
Top-exhaust.
Front-intake.
Floor-intake.
Deviation = fans fighting, cancelation, recycling air or circulatory patterns that really kill air flow and result in a bunch of noise with ineffective cooling, higher temps on both the cpu and gpu. Flooding a case with air does nothing after a while as that air just gets warmer, reducing efficiency of the heatsinks, raising temps, in a vicious circle.
https://youtu.be/8OmkmluAYAQ
Clearance is...hard to tell. I couldn't see from the video what the spec is width wise but if the front can accomodate 2x200mm (sorry, correction, they're apparently 230mm fans so massive) fans, you know it's going to be around there, minus some width for the back where the cables go. Should be plenty for pretty much any air cooler on the market.
Here's a nice list:
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/best-cpu-coolers,4181.html
Here's a nice list:
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/best-cpu-coolers,4181.html
As we now know, the front intake isn't that great because of the plexiglas frontpanel blocks the air intake.
I have the H500P, fooled around and discoverd that the best setup is: 2x 200mm front intake, 3x 120/140mm top intake at minimum rpm, 1x 140mm exhaust at medium to high rpm.
If you have a radiator, set it in a pull config at the front of the case; making it a push/pull config with the 2x 200mm fans.
I have the H500P, fooled around and discoverd that the best setup is: 2x 200mm front intake, 3x 120/140mm top intake at minimum rpm, 1x 140mm exhaust at medium to high rpm.
If you have a radiator, set it in a pull config at the front of the case; making it a push/pull config with the 2x 200mm fans.
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