Question Headset mic buzz but stop if I put my hand on my PC case

[volarevin]

Hello guys,


I have this problem that headphone mic makes a loud buzzing sound that makes me inaudible, and I think it's a grounding issue, if I touch my PC case, the buzz stops and I can only hear a hissing background sound. I had this problem for years and tried fixes I could but the headset mic buzz still persist, the only thing could help me to indure this is because of a great noise cancellation software, but it's too much that it won't pick up my voice sometimes. I'm still not sure if it's the PSU, I'm planning to save money to replace it with a better one but kinda scared that it still persists. I'm still a student with a tiny knowledge about these stuffs, a reply would mean a lot, thanks!

PC Specs:

• Motherboard: Gigabyte B450M dsh3 wifi
• CPU: Ryzen 5 5600g
• GPU: Integrated
• RAM: 8gb x 2
• SSD: Teamgroup 256gb
• PSU: Generic one, I forgot the brand and the wattage since it's a long time ago and already disposed the box.
  
  The fixes I tried so far:

1. It tried replacing my motherboard first because i thought it was the bad audio ports but it's not.
2. I replaced my headset as well which is now Razer Blackshark V2, I bought different audio to USB soundcards(cheap ones). It didn't work.
3. I tried connecting frayed speaker wires(copper) from PC case to a metal but it still didn't work.
4. Using every sockets in our house makes no difference.
5. Tried unplugging appliances/pc pirepherals one by one to see if that's the problem but it isn't.

 

[Lutfij]

Welcome to the forums, newcomer!

I have this problem that headphone mic makes a loud buzzing sound that makes me inaudible, and I think it's a grounding issue, if I touch my PC case, the buzz stops and I can only hear a hissing background sound.
Yes. That's usually a sign that you're having a grounding issue. That ground is completed when you touch the metal part of your case. It could also be a bad quality PSU or the power cord from the PSU to the wall outlet isn't up to par.

PSU: Generic one, I forgot the brand and the wattage since it's a long time ago and already disposed the box.
You should mention the make, model and age of the PSU. Depending on your answer, you might need to replace your PSU apart from sorting out the grounding issue in your abode.

Pertaining to the grounding issue, you call in a certified electrician and you ask said professional to inspect the wiring in your abode.

Moved thread from Computer Peripherals section to Systems section.

 

[Misgar]

1. I replaced my headset as well which is now Razer Blackshark V2, I bought different audio to USB soundcards(cheap ones). It didn't work.

From what I can see the Blackshark doesn't use baseband (ordinary) audio connections on 3.5mm jack plugs. Perhaps your old headset used wired connections?

Did you (or Windows) successfully load a USB driver for the Razer Blackshark V2 headset? If not, that's explains why USB didn't work. You might need to download a suitable USB driver from the Razer web site.

If you're not using USB with the Razer, are you using 2.4GHz Wireless or Bluetooth? They both use radio waves, but different protocols.

If the connection is Bluetooth, are you using Bluetooth 4 or 5?

The spec for the Blackshark shows Bluetooth 5.2, but for all I know, you're using the older Bluetooth 4 standard.

If you can get the USB connection to work, the headset will be "grounded" to the computer chassis, via the 0V wire in the USB cable.

When the Blackshark is operated "wirelessly", then quite obviously, the entire headset is isolated from ground. It's designed to work normally this way and shouldn't buzz (but it does).

You've changed the motherboard and the headset, but the problem persists.

if I touch my PC case, the buzz stops and I can only hear a hissing background sound.

It's vaguely possible that both headsets are being affected by a source of RFI (radio frequency interference). A common source of RFI would be a powerful amateur radio (ham) transmitter. I doubt this is the source, unless your father is a ham radio operator (or a there's neighbour close by).

It's also possible your microwave oven (which probably operates at 2.4GHz) is interfering with the wireless connection between your headset and the computer.

A microwave oven should only emit RFI when it's switched on and heating something, so again, it's probably not the culprit.

Do you have any other sources of 2.4GHz radio frequency signals nearby, e.g. a USB dongle on the computer for a wireless keyboard or mouse? These USB dongles often transmit on 2.4GHz. It might interfere with the headset.

You might have two USB dongles plugged into the computer. One for the headset, the other for a keyboard/mouse. If so remove the second dongle and try a wired keyboard and mouse.

The next thing I'd check as mentioned by @Lutfij is the grounding of all the mains outlets (wall sockets) in your home. You could buy a cheap mains tester as a confidence check. In the USA:
https://www.amazon.com/Earth-Potential-Standard-Electrical-Outlets/dp/B09KY5W4XB/ref=sr_1_37

If your ATX PSU is not properly grounded to a mains safety earth, the Class-Y RFI filtering capacitors will not be grounded.

The result will be an increased level of RFI emitted from the PSU. The main reason for the safety earth is to protect you against fatal electric shocks if a serious fault develops in the PSU.
https://resources.altium.com/p/how-use-class-x-and-class-y-safety-capacitors

ATX PSUs and all the other digital electronic components in a computer are notorious for emitting significant levels of RFI, which can affect nearby equipment.

Just place an old AM or short wave radio near a computer and tune to a blank spot between stations. You'll hear RFI noise radiated by the computer.

As an EMC Systems Engineer, my job involved testing Industrial PCs and getting them through EMC/EMI compliance.
https://compliancetesting.com/emi-emc-testing-basics/

If your mains outlets are correctly earthed, plus your mains extension leads are correctly earthed and your mains lead up to the ATX PSU is correctly earthed, the next thing I'd change is the PSU.

If it's a badly designed cheap PSU and especially if it's getting old and the warranty has expired, the electrolytic capacitors inside may be drying out. This causes increased high-frequency ripple voltage and more RFI.

The cheapest option is to get the USB connection working on the Razer headset. If touching the computer case stops the buzz, a permanent wired (USB) connection should perform the same function.

PSU: Generic one, I forgot the brand and the wattage since it's a long time ago and already disposed the box.

Get your dad (the electrician) to take the side panel off your computer (with the mains lead disconnected) and check the manufacturer's label on the side of the ATX PSU. If you're lucky, the PSU label should be visible.

If not remove any internal panels to reveal the PSU label. If it's still hidden, remove the 4 screws on the rear panel securing the PSU and ease it gently out of the chassis. You should be able to do this without unplugging any DC leads.

Report back with the Manufacturer and the Model (Part) number, so we can advise if the PSU is excellent, good, average, poor, or an absolute heap of junk, likely to explode or catch fire at any moment.

A good PSU is the heart of a computer. A really bad PSU might destroy the rest of your computer. Don't cheap out on a low quality PSU. Pick a good one.
https://www.zachstechturf.com/psutierlist
https://cultists.network/140/psu-tier-list/