Help building a PC mostly for gaming, please.

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cowboyfromhell

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Oct 14, 2014
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I'm looking to build a gaming pc, the next month, around $1500ish dollars (only from the components listed below), i'll mostly be playing, but i plan to do some modeling and rendering plus the normal stfuff like browsing, etc. I'd prefer an Intel CPU, and asus motherboard since it's the easiest to obtain round here, but i'll take any advice, and try to find the pieces if you recommend something else. No need of a SO, i can get it from school. I have a toaster and have save some money to get a good PC, and i really want to build one, but since im new i to this, i prefer to not overclock.

What i need:

CPU:
CPU Cooler:
Motherboard:
Memory
Video Card:
Power Supply:
Optical Drive:

So thanks in advance for any advice you give me, i'll take all suggestions.
 
Solution
This, will do everything you want. Plus, IF you want, you can overclock it later when you feel more comfortable with it. In the meantime, it's a smashing good system as is.:


PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($328.97 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U14S 55.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus MAXIMUS VII HERO ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($203.99 @ NCIX US)
Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-2133 Memory ($84.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($82.98 @ Newegg)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5"...
nooooooooooooooooooooo your lier!!!!!!!!!!!!!! asus motherboard is bad !!!!! you will kill your self if you buy it get gigabyte motherboard you wont have any problems with it 😉
 


Even is Sidik01 is a bit of a di**, they've got me thinking. What really makes a good motherboard. From my point of view on the few builds that I have done I have always found them to be the hardest part to decide on. I always feel bogged down in choice, and tend to choose one based on cost, socket, and whether or not I need support of OCing or SLI. Still though I always feel the least comfortable about my choice, and don't really understand what makes one good or bad.
 


you pice of sh**t get gigabyte motherboard if your a gamer
 
Actually.. for the MOBO, I would suggest going with an MSI z97 gaming 7 or 9. And pair that with an MSI gtx970, their boards are amazing, reliable, and to top it off, they calibrate their cards to run perfectly on their MOBOs. You cant go wrong with this setup.
 


In my opinion, and at the risk of getting the superfreak going again, most boards in similar price ranges have similar features, give or take. So reliability and BIOS support for hardware out of the box are important to me, as is quality. ASRock boards, for example, are often built with thinner PC boards and are therefore more prone to warping due to heat or the weight of a heavy CPU cooler. Reliability is often, but not always, indicated somewhat by general consensus but also by RMA rates.
 
When I was called into this thread, I had no idea I'd feel like I'd gone back sixty years into the school playground in the 1950s.

I'm not taking sides in a "he said she said" argument over different manufacturers - if any one of them was that bad, it would be out of business. I'm also not going to sanction any poster on this occasion although I did come very close, sidik01.

I say only - stop the personal remarks and back your opinions with facts. Any further arguing in this thread or any other will end in tears!
 
Ok, I tweeked Darkbreeze's build:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($329.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.98 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: MSI Z97-GAMING 7 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($169.99 @ NCIX US)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($149.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($85.44 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($51.99 @ Directron)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card ($349.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Cooler Master Storm Enforcer ATX Mid Tower Case ($85.99 @ Directron)
Power Supply: Corsair Professional 850W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus BW-12B1ST/BLK/G/AS Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($54.99 @ Newegg)
Case Fan: Noctua NF-S12A PWM 120mm Fan ($19.48 @ Amazon)
Total: $1404.82
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-11-18 03:51 EST-0500

With MSI board and GPU (great combo)

And I downgraded the cpu cooler (hyper 212 is more than enough for OP's needs - for now, maybe even dont get an aftermarket cooler until OP is ready to overclock, stock fan is enough), and with the extra cash I increased the RAM to 16GB, and also increased the power and efficiency of the PSU, because in essence this is a gaming rig, and need to have comfortable room in wattage, especially to give OP the option for SLI in the future. 650 bronze is cutting it close for my taste.

And here is a further tweaked 'eco/performance build', in case OP is 100% sure he will not overclock:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-4790 3.6GHz Quad-Core Processor ($289.98 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: MSI Z97-GAMING 7 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($169.99 @ NCIX US)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($72.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($85.44 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Green 1TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive ($53.00 @ Amazon)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 970 4GB Twin Frozr V Video Card ($349.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Cooler Master Storm Enforcer ATX Mid Tower Case ($85.99 @ Directron)
Power Supply: Corsair Professional 850W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus BW-12B1ST/BLK/G/AS Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($54.99 @ Newegg)
Case Fan: Noctua NF-S12A PWM 120mm Fan ($19.48 @ Amazon)
Total: $1271.84
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-11-18 03:56 EST-0500


EDIT 1: the 16GB is important if OP wants to do some modeling / rendering / do video editing like he mentioned
 


I guess this is the last we'll see of you - so with that, I bid you farewell!
 
Sidiks1, 2 and 3 have been banned along with their IP address.

It's not something we enjoy doing and it's very much a last resort but disruptive influences don't help in a serious request for advice on a build, and future trolls will be given the same treatment after a little latitude.

@TomthePotato - I hope the OP returns and if he doesn't by tomorrow around 08:00 GMT, I'll PM him our apologies and explain it's safe to come out now.
 


The last bit of your message sure did make me chuckle, I have to admit. Apologies for the spam.
 


Don't ever tweak one of my builds you piece of ....., nah, just kidding. Glad to see the little brat is gone though. I'm sure he'll slip back through the cracks again, but since we know his MO, shouldn't be too hard to pick him out right away.

To the OP, any of these builds would serve your purposes just fine.
 


Haha, i saw the msg on my phone and instantly thought that was him 😛 then read more carefully 😀
 
I'm gonna have to bust down your build though. Keep in mind this is simply my opinion which may or may not reflect the views of this establishment. Oh, wait, wrong disclaimer.

Anyhow, of course going with the 212 EVO is cheaper, however, it's also louder. The 120mm fan on the cooler has to work MUCH hard and thus spin at a faster RPM, to try and do the same job as the Noctua NH-U14S which has a 140mm fan and can do the same job at a lower RPM which reduces noise. The heatsink on the Noctua fan is vastly better than the EVO's as well. I couldn't get either of two overclocked rigs to go past 4.1 without thermals becoming a problem using the EVO and with the Noctua they are both stable and cool at 4.5Ghz. So if there is any plan to overclock to the chips potential stable and thermally manageable ceiling, the Noctua is a better choice. Even without overclocking it's a better choice because it's quieter at any equivalent thermal setting.

The PSU is way overkill. Unless there is some intention to add a second card later, there is absolutely not necessity for any PSU over 650w with the GTX 970. 550w will run it fine without anything else seriously overclocked and 650w will be more than enough regardless of what else is being done so long as it's a good PSU and not a Tier 3 unit.

Also, I NEVER recommend Corsair power supplies. Their cheap ones have a high failure rate or at the very least are problematic. I see a ton of CX series issues here that are resolved by installing better units. Their good units are significantly more expensive than other units with the same quality. Therefore, I don't recommend them unless they happen to be on sale and are priced low enough to justify the purchase. Even then, I only do so with the AX, HX v2, GS, TX and as listed on the Tier list, a couple of the RM series models.

Bumping the RAM up to 16GB is never a bad thing in my opinion, except you dropped it from 2133Mhz CL9 modules to 1600Mhz CL10 modules. That incurs a performance penalty on both the clock speed of the module and the latency. Not good.

I'm not 100% certain on this, but I'm 90% certain that the WD Caviar Blue has a higher failure rate than the Seagate drive I chose, mostly for price reasons, and the Caviar green drive you chose is an even slower 5400RPM model that incurs a penalty for performance.

As I indicated earlier in the thread, if the OP needs to cut the budget down, going with an i5 and bumping the clock up is the best way to do so, shaving about a hundred bucks off the build.
 


lol



At the Noctua's price range, for a few bucks more I would then advise an H100i in its stead, its noise to performance ratio is inredible.



In this respect I agree with the different models, however in their 'good' models it's an all different league. I personally have a TX850, and its amazing. However for the overkill, I disagree, don't you believe that in the medium-long run, isn't it prudent to leave the door open for SLI? And with a little wiggle room to not pull max wattage out of a PSU? Instead of lets say in 18 months, OP decides he wants to SLI to keep playing 2016 AAA titles at ultra with decent FPS, but he would also need to upgrade the PSU? Or add a couple of fans in the case on top of that?



Agree, it should have been this RAM:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Memory: G.Skill Trident X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-2133 Memory ($157.50 @ Newegg)
Total: $157.50
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-11-19 04:59 EST-0500



Im not sure if you know this, your comment about the green leads me to believe so, but:
WD Black = Speed + performance at the expense of power consumption and shorter life span
WD Blue = Balance between speed/performance/life span
WD Green = Eco drive, slower, more reliable, long life span, low power consumption

Hence why i suggested the green drive in the 'eco build'
I tend to always use WD drives, either for HDD's or external HDDs, in my 12 years using their drives, have NEVER had any failure.



Agree, and this is where the H100i would truly help, I have an i5 4670k which i managed to keep stable at 4 GHz and upto 4.6 GHz in turbo boost, and its temps are still AMAZING with the H100i.
 


It is, and he can do it. After all, his name clearly defines him as a tourist which is another name for somebody from another country that is visiting, although probably drunk, is still likely amiable enough. With both traveling experience and mediating skills, his chances are good. Well, maybe not in that particular case since every people that's ever lived in that region has been embroiled in constant conflict, but it can't hurt.