Help! First Gaming PC

[Pgimme]

So as the title says it need help with the parts of my first pc build. So the specs are

AMD Athlon X4 860K 3.7GHz Quad-Core Processor

ASRock FM2A68M-DG3+ Micro ATX FM2+ Motherboard

PNY Anarchy 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory

Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5"
7200RPM Internal Hard Drive

MSI Radeon R7 360 2GB Video Card

Rosewill RANGER-M MicroATX Mini Tower Case

EVGA 430W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply

Is this a good build? My biggest concern is the mobo and RAM stick. Are those ok or should I find something else? This build is about $415 so if you could please try to keep it below about $450. Thanks!

 

[Water_Damage]

I'd try and get an i3 in there
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i3-6100 3.7GHz Dual-Core Processor ($110.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: Asus H110M-A Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($57.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Kingston FURY 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($35.88 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($47.49 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: PowerColor Radeon RX 460 2GB Red Dragon Video Card ($111.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Raidmax Vortex ATX Mid Tower Case ($38.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($43.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $447.32
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-08-18 22:36 EDT-0400

 

[damric]

This is faster, and can be overclocked. Later, if you decide to get a more powerful graphics card, be sure to get a better PSU.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i3-6100 3.7GHz Dual-Core Processor ($110.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: ASRock Z170M Pro4S Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($84.44 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws 4 Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($51.74 @ Amazon)
Storage: AMD Radeon R3 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($59.54 @ NCIX US)
Case: Apex TX-381 MicroATX Mid Tower Case w/300W Power Supply ($26.99 @ Directron)
Other: PowerColor RED DRAGON Radeon RX 460 ($114.99)
Total: $448.69
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-08-18 22:43 EDT-0400

 

[Pgimme]

This is faster, and can be overclocked. Later, if you decide to get a more powerful graphics card, be sure to get a better PSU.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i3-6100 3.7GHz Dual-Core Processor ($110.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: ASRock Z170M Pro4S Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($84.44 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws 4 Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($51.74 @ Amazon)
Storage: AMD Radeon R3 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($59.54 @ NCIX US)
Case: Apex TX-381 MicroATX Mid Tower Case w/300W Power Supply ($26.99 @ Directron)
Other: PowerColor RED DRAGON Radeon RX 460 ($114.99)
Total: $448.69
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-08-18 22:43 EDT-0400

I feel like that is not needed, all I really want to play on this PC are games like Minecraft or CS:GO and the dolphin emulator. And even with those games I only want to play like medium settings 1080p 60fp at the most. I think my build could do that but i could be wrong. So can you tell me if my build can or can't would be helpful. If it can't then I'll use your build. Thanks again!

 

[Berkin]

For 30$ more you definetly should consider the other builds, don't get your build or you will have regrets in the future.

 

[Pgimme]

For 30$ more you definetly should consider the other builds, don't get your build or you will have regrets in the future.

Would you recommend water_damage's or dimric's build? I think water's because of the power supply, it's obviously a lot better and I feel like upgrading my gpu and cpu isn't as important at the moment if I'm going for lighter games. I can always upgrade in the future but I feel a better psu is a good safety measure.

 

[damric]

The EVGA isn't that great either (poor temperature rating). But the thing is, that graphics card pulls very little power (less than 75W from the PCIE slot), and the CPU is also only 65W, so I wouldn't worry about it.

My build will seem much faster with the SSD over the slow HDD. Also my pick for motherboard and memory allows you to overclock your CPU if your performance should ever need to be boosted in the future.

There's really no good reason to go with the slow Athlon over an i3, or the slower R7 360 over the RX 460, as we have clearly demonstrated.

 

[turkey3_scratch]

I don't know, even I'd be hesitant to go with that case-included PSU Damric. Just think about how dirt cheap that case/PSU combo is. It might not even have the required 6-pin PCIe cable for the GPU. The EVGA is probably way better. It probably doesn't have any transient filter; I wouldn't use it. Really, he can get the Corsair CX450M for $30 after rebate on Newegg. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139146

 

[Pgimme]

To both Damric and turkey scratch, I agree with turkey in this case (ha get it) because I really don't trust that case if it's less than $30 and it comes with a power supply

 

[turkey3_scratch]

To both Damric and turkey scratch, I agree with turkey in this scratch in this case (ha get it) because I really don't trust that case if it's less than $30 and it comes with a power supply

Well I'd trust the case but not the power supply.

I'd get a cheaper GPU honestly just so I could get a PSU that won't be so darn loud like those cheap ones where the fan runs at a constant RPM. Noise bugs me, I don't know about you guys.

 

[damric]

I don't know, even I'd be hesitant to go with that case-included PSU Damric. Just think about how dirt cheap that case/PSU combo is. It might not even have the required 6-pin PCIe cable for the GPU. The EVGA is probably way better. It probably doesn't have any transient filter; I wouldn't use it. Really, he can get the Corsair CX450M for $30 after rebate on Newegg. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139146

There's no PCIE power connector on that card. It's very low power draw. Like I said in my first post, if you decide to upgrade your graphics card later, replace PSU first. Otherwise it should be fine for the i3+RX 460.

 

[turkey3_scratch]

I don't know, even I'd be hesitant to go with that case-included PSU Damric. Just think about how dirt cheap that case/PSU combo is. It might not even have the required 6-pin PCIe cable for the GPU. The EVGA is probably way better. It probably doesn't have any transient filter; I wouldn't use it. Really, he can get the Corsair CX450M for $30 after rebate on Newegg. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139146

There's no PCIE power connector on that card. It's very low power draw. Like I said in my first post, if you decide to upgrade your graphics card later, replace PSU first. Otherwise it should be fine for the i3+RX 460.

We're still talking about the most dirt cheap power supply. I see you advise against the low-end EVGA units altogether, but this is something way lower in the pit whereas the EVGA ones have been tested and shown to be okay budget performers. I'll have to disagree with you on this one, even with the low load of his machine his PSU will probably suck. I've seen the insides of enough junk PSUs as well as the out-of-spec ripple and early-failing fans and caps to know to avoid them. As far as I'm concerned we have no proof that this PSU is anything other than terrible. It probably won't be loaded high enough to blow up but it still probably uses way too high gauge wiring and has other problematic issues, lacking adequate protection. The probably lack of a transient filter can even affect other electronics through the mains.

 

[damric]

I don't know, even I'd be hesitant to go with that case-included PSU Damric. Just think about how dirt cheap that case/PSU combo is. It might not even have the required 6-pin PCIe cable for the GPU. The EVGA is probably way better. It probably doesn't have any transient filter; I wouldn't use it. Really, he can get the Corsair CX450M for $30 after rebate on Newegg. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139146

There's no PCIE power connector on that card. It's very low power draw. Like I said in my first post, if you decide to upgrade your graphics card later, replace PSU first. Otherwise it should be fine for the i3+RX 460.

We're still talking about the most dirt cheap power supply. I see you advise against the low-end EVGA units altogether, but this is something way lower in the pit whereas the EVGA ones have been tested and shown to be okay budget performers. I'll have to disagree with you on this one, even with the low load of his machine his PSU will probably suck. I've seen the insides of enough junk PSUs as well as the out-of-spec ripple and early-failing fans and caps to know to avoid them. As far as I'm concerned we have no proof that this PSU is anything other than terrible. It probably won't be loaded high enough to blow up but it still probably uses way too high gauge wiring and has other problematic issues, lacking adequate protection. The probably lack of a transient filter can even affect other electronics through the mains.

I agree with you that the included PSU is garbage, but really anything less than a 50C rated PSU is just throwing money in the trash. Is the OP going to shell out $80 for a REAL PSU? I doubt it. If he could raise his budget to $500, I'd say get the Rosewill ARC 450W, which is one of the best 40C rated PSUs I've built with (hell no not in my own rigs).

 

[damric]

Here's another idea. Overclock the balls off this Celeron.Replace with i5 or i7 later.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Celeron G3900 2.8GHz Dual-Core Processor ($50.17 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: ASRock Z170M Pro4S Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($99.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws 4 Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($51.74 @ Amazon)
Storage: AMD Radeon R3 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($59.54 @ NCIX US)
Case: Enermax Thorex ATX Mid Tower Case ($28.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: Rosewill 450W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($39.99 @ Amazon)
Other: PowerColor RED DRAGON Radeon RX 460 ($114.99)
Total: $445.41
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-08-19 00:37 EDT-0400

 

[turkey3_scratch]

I don't know, even I'd be hesitant to go with that case-included PSU Damric. Just think about how dirt cheap that case/PSU combo is. It might not even have the required 6-pin PCIe cable for the GPU. The EVGA is probably way better. It probably doesn't have any transient filter; I wouldn't use it. Really, he can get the Corsair CX450M for $30 after rebate on Newegg. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139146

There's no PCIE power connector on that card. It's very low power draw. Like I said in my first post, if you decide to upgrade your graphics card later, replace PSU first. Otherwise it should be fine for the i3+RX 460.

We're still talking about the most dirt cheap power supply. I see you advise against the low-end EVGA units altogether, but this is something way lower in the pit whereas the EVGA ones have been tested and shown to be okay budget performers. I'll have to disagree with you on this one, even with the low load of his machine his PSU will probably suck. I've seen the insides of enough junk PSUs as well as the out-of-spec ripple and early-failing fans and caps to know to avoid them. As far as I'm concerned we have no proof that this PSU is anything other than terrible. It probably won't be loaded high enough to blow up but it still probably uses way too high gauge wiring and has other problematic issues, lacking adequate protection. The probably lack of a transient filter can even affect other electronics through the mains.

I agree with you that the included PSU is garbage, but really anything less than a 50C rated PSU is just throwing money in the trash. Is the OP going to shell out $80 for a REAL PSU? I doubt it. If he could raise his budget to $500, I'd say get the Rosewill ARC 450W, which is one of the best 40C rated PSUs I've built with (hell no not in my own rigs).

I don't understand why you care about temperature ratings so much. They really don't mean much of anything, they are simply a rating. There isn't really a standard by which temperature ratings are made, especially since you see 40C rated PSUs that house OTP and don't shut off until like 47C or even higher.

The temperature rating really doesn't matter too much; internal analysis's and teardowns will show the heat and current all the components can handle without burning up. Most reviewers test PSUs in hotter environments, and you'll see on Tomshardware and Techpowerup reviews many PSUs rated 40C and below handling the 45C+ internal temps just fine even under full load and until they shut off from OCP or OPP.

I'd much rather look at the fan profile, capacitor placement and quality (diameter, lifetime rating, ripple handling, ESR), transient response tests, and other facets of quality. You can't just assume that 50C PSUs are great and ones below that suck.

The new Corsair CX450M for $30 after rebate of $50 before should be a lot better than the Rosewill Arc. Has 2 years longer warranty, more PCIe cables, and has been tested and shown to be very good.

 

[damric]

I don't know, even I'd be hesitant to go with that case-included PSU Damric. Just think about how dirt cheap that case/PSU combo is. It might not even have the required 6-pin PCIe cable for the GPU. The EVGA is probably way better. It probably doesn't have any transient filter; I wouldn't use it. Really, he can get the Corsair CX450M for $30 after rebate on Newegg. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139146

There's no PCIE power connector on that card. It's very low power draw. Like I said in my first post, if you decide to upgrade your graphics card later, replace PSU first. Otherwise it should be fine for the i3+RX 460.

We're still talking about the most dirt cheap power supply. I see you advise against the low-end EVGA units altogether, but this is something way lower in the pit whereas the EVGA ones have been tested and shown to be okay budget performers. I'll have to disagree with you on this one, even with the low load of his machine his PSU will probably suck. I've seen the insides of enough junk PSUs as well as the out-of-spec ripple and early-failing fans and caps to know to avoid them. As far as I'm concerned we have no proof that this PSU is anything other than terrible. It probably won't be loaded high enough to blow up but it still probably uses way too high gauge wiring and has other problematic issues, lacking adequate protection. The probably lack of a transient filter can even affect other electronics through the mains.

I agree with you that the included PSU is garbage, but really anything less than a 50C rated PSU is just throwing money in the trash. Is the OP going to shell out $80 for a REAL PSU? I doubt it. If he could raise his budget to $500, I'd say get the Rosewill ARC 450W, which is one of the best 40C rated PSUs I've built with (hell no not in my own rigs).

I don't understand why you care about temperature ratings so much. They really don't mean much of anything, they are simply a rating. There isn't really a standard by which temperature ratings are made, especially since you see 40C rated PSUs that house OTP and don't shut off until like 47C or even higher.

The temperature rating really doesn't matter too much; internal analysis's and teardowns will show the heat and current all the components can handle without burning up. Most reviewers test PSUs in hotter environments, and you'll see on Tomshardware and Techpowerup reviews many PSUs rated 40C and below handling the 45C+ internal temps just fine even under full load and until they shut off from OCP or OPP.

I'd much rather look at the fan profile, capacitor placement and quality (diameter, lifetime rating, ripple handling, ESR), transient response tests, and other facets of quality. You can't just assume that 50C PSUs are great and ones below that suck.

The new Corsair CX450M for $30 after rebate of $50 before should be a lot better than the Rosewill Arc. Has 2 years longer warranty, more PCIe cables, and has been tested and shown to be very good.

I'll never recommend anything CX again after so many hundreds of failures here regardless of whether or not they finally updated the platform. Same goes for all those low end EVGAs and other cheap HEC and CWT stuff that has plagued the forum for years.

The 50C is just simple for noobs to remember. I've given up trying to teach people how to analyze how PSU components work, though I must say I'm very proud of you and your work here on this forum.

 

[turkey3_scratch]

I'll never recommend anything CX again after so many hundreds of failures here regardless of whether or not they finally updated the platform. Same goes for all those low end EVGAs and other cheap HEC and CWT stuff that has plagued the forum for years.

The 50C is just simple for noobs to remember. I've given up trying to teach people how to analyze how PSU components work, though I must say I'm very proud of you and your work here on this forum.

Well thank you for that compliment!

In a way, I guess you are right: the temperature rating can be indicative of reliability. Very simple to remember. In the end, everybody looks at power supplies a different way I suppose. I look at things in a very technical matter, some people look at them other ways; it's just understanding that not one way is the right one, though, that goes a long way.

You're actually the one who got me interested in PSUs, back in late 2014 or really early 2015 you told me my EVGA 500W wasn't as good as I thought it was, which actually jumpstarted my interest in PSUs a little bit which furthered into me undergoing a lot of research in the later portion of 2015 all the way up to now. So I ought to thank you for that! Scared me out of my pants at the time

 

[damric]

I'll never recommend anything CX again after so many hundreds of failures here regardless of whether or not they finally updated the platform. Same goes for all those low end EVGAs and other cheap HEC and CWT stuff that has plagued the forum for years.

The 50C is just simple for noobs to remember. I've given up trying to teach people how to analyze how PSU components work, though I must say I'm very proud of you and your work here on this forum.

Well thank you for that compliment!

In a way, I guess you are right: the temperature rating can be indicative of reliability. Very simple to remember. In the end, everybody looks at power supplies a different way I suppose. I look at things in a very technical matter, some people look at them other ways; it's just understanding that not one way is the right one, though, that goes a long way.

You're actually the one who got me interested in PSUs, back in late 2014 or really early 2015 you told me my EVGA 500W wasn't as good as I thought it was, which actually jumpstarted my interest in PSUs a little bit which furthered into me undergoing a lot of research in the later portion of 2015 all the way up to now. So I ought to thank you for that! Scared me out of my pants at the time

Well I give you much credit for bothering to learn this stuff. Not too many people know what filter circuits are, ect.

 

[turkey3_scratch]

I'll never recommend anything CX again after so many hundreds of failures here regardless of whether or not they finally updated the platform. Same goes for all those low end EVGAs and other cheap HEC and CWT stuff that has plagued the forum for years.

The 50C is just simple for noobs to remember. I've given up trying to teach people how to analyze how PSU components work, though I must say I'm very proud of you and your work here on this forum.

Well thank you for that compliment!

In a way, I guess you are right: the temperature rating can be indicative of reliability. Very simple to remember. In the end, everybody looks at power supplies a different way I suppose. I look at things in a very technical matter, some people look at them other ways; it's just understanding that not one way is the right one, though, that goes a long way.

You're actually the one who got me interested in PSUs, back in late 2014 or really early 2015 you told me my EVGA 500W wasn't as good as I thought it was, which actually jumpstarted my interest in PSUs a little bit which furthered into me undergoing a lot of research in the later portion of 2015 all the way up to now. So I ought to thank you for that! Scared me out of my pants at the time

Well I give you much credit for bothering to learn this stuff. Not too many people know what filter circuits are, ect.

I wish I knew more, but I do learn more every day at least and am about to start college for computer engineering so while that may not particularly be as beneficial for PSUs as electrical engineering I do hope to learn some more about electronic components since transistors, rectifiers, etc. are the things that confuse me the most and I have the most questions about.

 

[damric]

I'll never recommend anything CX again after so many hundreds of failures here regardless of whether or not they finally updated the platform. Same goes for all those low end EVGAs and other cheap HEC and CWT stuff that has plagued the forum for years.

The 50C is just simple for noobs to remember. I've given up trying to teach people how to analyze how PSU components work, though I must say I'm very proud of you and your work here on this forum.

Well thank you for that compliment!

In a way, I guess you are right: the temperature rating can be indicative of reliability. Very simple to remember. In the end, everybody looks at power supplies a different way I suppose. I look at things in a very technical matter, some people look at them other ways; it's just understanding that not one way is the right one, though, that goes a long way.

You're actually the one who got me interested in PSUs, back in late 2014 or really early 2015 you told me my EVGA 500W wasn't as good as I thought it was, which actually jumpstarted my interest in PSUs a little bit which furthered into me undergoing a lot of research in the later portion of 2015 all the way up to now. So I ought to thank you for that! Scared me out of my pants at the time

Well I give you much credit for bothering to learn this stuff. Not too many people know what filter circuits are, ect.

I wish I knew more, but I do learn more every day at least and am about to start college for computer engineering so while that may not particularly be as beneficial for PSUs as electrical engineering I do hope to learn some more about electronic components since transistors, rectifiers, etc. are the things that confuse me the most and I have the most questions about.

I got to take basic electronics as a vocational class in high school, and actually got to calculate and build my own filter stages on breadboards. That got me interested enough to join the Navy and become an electronics technician. From there I worked in the steel mill on PLCs, drives (think DC to AC oscillator type stuff), rectifiers, and all kinds of other stuff. I'm still a few credits shy of my engineering degree, damn calculus kicking my ass. The computer repair thing though, that's just fun stuff I love doing (in small handfuls).

 

[turkey3_scratch]

I got to take basic electronics as a vocational class in high school, and actually got to calculate and build my own filter stages on breadboards. That got me interested enough to join the Navy and become an electronics technician. From there I worked in the steel mill on PLCs, drives (think DC to AC oscillator type stuff), rectifiers, and all kinds of other stuff. I'm still a few credits shy of my engineering degree, damn calculus kicking my ass. The computer repair thing though, that's just fun stuff I love doing (in small handfuls).

Unfortunately in America a lot of high schools (like mine) don't really have a lot of tech or electronic oriented classes. My physics class did not cover electronics, and the only tech class at the school was an Autocad class and a Google class :| it's too difficult to learn about most electronics from reading online. I try, but it's all just over-complicated. I've read up on a bunch of electric theories and principles relating to charge and electric fields, so that peaked my interest but the applications of all of it are where I struggle. One author who I have been able to understand online is William Beaty. But other articles I find on transistors for instance don't make much sense. Thanks to that author (William Beaty), I have somewhat of an understanding at least of how transistors work, with the depletion insulating layer getting thinner from an increased voltage which allows the charge to then flow since they electrons that are trapped in p-holes get untrapped (if I remember correctly). I actually sort of know how transistors work, yet I don't know really how they are used. For most people stuff is the other way around, they know what something does but now how it works; I'm the opposite when it comes to electronics it seems.