Question high cpu temps because of bios?

Nov 7, 2023
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Hi, I need help, BADLY

I'll try and make it short. I'm on my 1st pc build, not even a year old. Everything was fine until from one day to another, my CPU temps went from 30-40 degrees (Celsius) in idle to 70-80. Gaming temps went from 50-60 to 90-100. As I'm writing this, my CPU is at 96, I want to cry. So I checked task manager, nothing's running (CPU usage is always below 10%), reapplied thermal paste, cleaned my components... Even sent back my cooler to the seller, they got it tested on the same CPU and mobo... Temps in bios were 30-40. So I don't think it's because of a failing component. However, I do faintly remember me messing about with settings in bios (stuff idk much about), and I think it's after that when my temperatures started SPIKING.

So yesterday I set the default settings in bios, rebooted pc and temperatures were back to cool! I played gta at around 50-60 degrees. A while later, I boot my pc again, temperatures are fine, I play Syberia The World Before (which is quite heavy), temps reached up to 100 and never got down as soon as I closed the game :) So today, when I booted my pc up for the first time, temperatures we're cool again! So I test out Syberia again, temps got high... I restarted my pc and now after an hour, my temps are still freaking high and not going down.

Mind you, my bios settings are still in default... So, what could it be? Also, what exact things do I have to adjust in bios? And I mean everything, because I still have to adjust fan curves, XMP and I don't really know much about that stuff... So I guess, in detail, what things would I have to adjust in bios so my temps can get back to normal? Could my high temps be caused by anything else? I already did a windows threat scan, my drivers are all updated (I think)... I've also seen stuff about undervolting, is this all necessary? This is all going beyond my knowledge and I'm really lost.

PSU - Asus ROG Strix gold 850W

CPU cooler - Enermax Liqmax III 360mm ARGB

memory - D416GB 3600-18 Trident Z Royal

CPU - AMD Ryzen 7 5700X

GPU - MSI 8GB RTX 3060 Ti

mobo - ASUS Tuf Gaming X570-Plus wifi

Windows 11 Pro
 
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Since your cpu is getting hot at idle I would start with your cpu cooler. If it is hot at idle then it is not doing its job. I would remove the cooling plate, clean the cpu and cooling plate. Put a pea size dab of thermal paste on the cpu. Then install the cooling plate as normal. Then remove the cooling plate and see if the thermal paste is spreading evenly across the cooling plate. Where is the radiator installed in your pc?
 
Since your cpu is getting hot at idle I would start with your cpu cooler. If it is hot at idle then it is not doing its job. I would remove the cooling plate, clean the cpu and cooling plate. Put a pea size dab of thermal paste on the cpu. Then install the cooling plate as normal. Then remove the cooling plate and see if the thermal paste is spreading evenly across the cooling plate. Where is the radiator installed in your pc?
https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-2196.ZZiseI guess I can try removing my cooler again, but then why do my temperatures sometimes remain cool? For the time being, I’ve added a pc pic so you can see my configuration. Don’t mind my messy cables, I still have to perfect my build
 
...I do faintly remember me messing about with settings in bios (stuff idk much about), and I think it's after that when my temperatures started SPIKING.

So yesterday I set the default settings in bios, rebooted pc and temperatures were back to cool!...
BIOS settings could still be part of your problems...check how the AIO pump and fans are is running with custom fan profiles in BIOS. The pump should be running at full speed 100% of the time. The radiator fans should run at fairly high speed (limited by sound they make) even when CPU temperature is cool in order to keep the liquid in the loop cool as the nature of liquid cooling is it rapidly takes up a lot of heat but gives it up slowly to the air. That's an adjustment in BIOS. You could also just attach the pump to +12V using a SATA power plug with an adapter, although you then loose ability to monitor RPM.
...CPU cooler - Enermax Liqmax III 360mm ARGB...
I've no idea how new this AIO is, but the Liqmax line has been plagued with problems from contamination that plugs up liquid flow in the pump. It usually shows up after a year or so but it might do it earlier if especially bad I suppose. I'd also like to think by the third generation of Liqmax they got it right...but you never can tell.
 
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BIOS settings could still be part of your problems...check how the AIO pump and fans are is running. The pump should be running at full speed 100% of the time and the fans at fairly high speed even when CPU temperature is cool in order to keep the liquid in the loop cool. That's an adjustment in BIOS. You could also just attach the pump to +12V using a SATA power plug with an adapter.

I'm not sure how new this AIO is...but the Liqmax line has been plagued with problems from contamination that plugs up liquid flow in the pump. It usually shows up after a year or so but it might do it earlier if especially bad I suppose. I'd also like to think by the third generation of Liqmax they got it fixed...but you never can tell.
Yeah, I also looked up reviews of Liqmax and saw the same... But the company I got it from tested it and said it was fine, so...

I just did a benchmark test. Everything performs above expectations, except for my ssd:

UserBenchmarks: Game 135%, Desk 101%, Work 130%
CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 5700X - 102.1%
GPU: Nvidia RTX 3060-Ti - 133%
SSD: WDC WD20EZBX-00AYRA0 2TB - 26%
RAM: G.SKILL F4 DDR4 3600 C18 2x8GB - 95.3%
MBD: Asus TUF GAMING X570-PLUS (WI-FI)

What is happening with my ssd then?
 
Yeah, I also looked up reviews of Liqmax and saw the same... But the company I got it from tested it and said it was fine, so...

I just did a benchmark test. Everything performs above expectations, except for my ssd:

UserBenchmarks: Game 135%, Desk 101%, Work 130%
CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 5700X - 102.1%
GPU: Nvidia RTX 3060-Ti - 133%
SSD: WDC WD20EZBX-00AYRA0 2TB - 26%
RAM: G.SKILL F4 DDR4 3600 C18 2x8GB - 95.3%
MBD: Asus TUF GAMING X570-PLUS (WI-FI)

What is happening with my ssd then?
I'd trust that "company tested it and it's fine" claim about like I trust the e-bay listings saying "good as new". Also, it takes some time for the contamination to form enough of the gel substance to clog the pump fins and affect cooling performance. So assuming they DID do a valid test it could have built up in the period of time you've owned and used it.

It's normal for SSD's to lose performance in benchmarks once they've been used a while and have a large amount of used memory data blocks. That being the case, the only valid performance tests are made on completely empty SSD's.
 
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Ofcourse you’re right I will never know for sure if they performed a valid test :/ I guess if truly all else fails, I'll have to get a new cooler, perhaps not an AIO one
 
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Contacted the sellers and they said to bring my pc in for a full diagnosis. They also stated it's probably not the cooler's fault my CPU has such high temps but at first they did... Honestly, should I just get a bequiet! air cooler in the meantime and see if that fixes it? That cooler is gonna cost less than the diagnosis they want to do
 
... That cooler is gonna cost less than the diagnosis they want to do
I think I would too. When working properly a 360mm AIO is overkill for a 65W TDP 5700X anyway. Even a cheap ID Cooling 120mm AIO would probably work well enough.

The thing to watch with an air cooler is case ventilation. Case fans front and back pulling cool air into and through the case is important to ensure hot air exausting from the GPU isn't being used for the CPU cooler. That makes it very inefficient so the CPU runs with higher temps in-game and can't boost as high when it's needed. But this shouldn't be hard to solve since the AIO has three good fans you can still use.
 
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