High graphical games freezing and blackscreen on NEW PC!

[BeN00bly101]

Hi. So I put up a post of this yesterday but for some reason, as annoying as it is, it got removed... I followed all guidelines, nothing inappropriate and I didn't get any help.. So I'm going to have another try. :|

Alright so, I built this new gaming computer two months ago and been having the same graphical problems ever since.
I have:

CPU: Intel Core i7 6700
GPU: MSI RX480 Gaming X 8GB
PSU: EVGA 500w
RAM: 16GBs
MOBO: MSI Bazooka B150M
HDD(1TB) and SSD (120GB)

Basically whats been happening is everytime I play a highly graphical game like Grand Theft Auto V, Black Ops 3 and FarCry 4 I'll either be able to play it for a couple of hours or it does it straight away. It Freezes on a frame and then blackscreens. Most of the time I can get task manager open and close the program but other times it ceases my whole computer which makes me have to force turn off my PC by holding the button.

I have tried with GTA verifying the integrity of the game cache. I have tried a complete wipe of all things AMD on my PC including graphics drivers and reinstalled the absolute latest drivers, at least I hope because their drivers and software are very confusing to me.. If I run GTA in low it will work for some time until doing it again.
One other interesting thing to note is that when I run GTA in Direct X 10 it goes for a couple of hours most of the time. When I run GTA in Direct X 11 it goes almost instantly.

I have a bit of an old monitor (1440x900, 60hz, No HDMI) and it is plugged directly into the RX 480 via DVI, I don't know if that has anything to do with it or not. As for temps, I managed to play GTA V for at least 3 hours (On Very High Graphics Settings but Direct X 10) the other day and right after I opened MSI AfterBurner (I have not tweaked or overclocked anything I just use for temp readings), the highest for my CPU was 63 degrees, GPU was 68 degrees but were both averaging around 58.

Now if someone could help me that would be fantastic. I know this PC has a much more massive potential then what it is reaching right now and I haven't been able to use that potential yet 🙁
Please don't removed this post because I would actually like it solved :/
Thank you.

 

[weberdarren97]

I'm sorry your post was removed. However, it was likely done for a reason. What that reason is, I don't know.

What is the model of your power supply?

Has this copy of Windows ever had a different graphics card installed on it? Sometimes an AMD file "C:\Windows\System32\atieclxx.exe" causes instabilities if Nvidia hardware has ever been on the machine in the past.

What are CPU and GPU temperatures while idle? What are they while gaming?

 

[BeN00bly101]

I'm sorry your post was removed. However, it was likely done for a reason. What that reason is, I don't know.

What is the model of your power supply?

Has this copy of Windows ever had a different graphics card installed on it? Sometimes an AMD file "C:\Windows\System32\atieclxx.exe" causes instabilities if Nvidia hardware has ever been on the machine in the past.

What are CPU and GPU temperatures while idle? What are they while gaming?

Im not sure about the power supply all I know is that it is an EVGA 500W 80plus Platinum
No this copy of windows has only had this graphics card and this one only.
As for Idle temps GPU around 27 degrees, and CPU around 25 degrees. As for gaming GTA at very high around GPU 68, CPU 63. Any other game around 50 to 60 (70 GPU)

 

[BeN00bly101]

Anyone please

 

[LogicBomb31]

The PSU is on the weak side, if it came with your case or you're unsure it's high efficiency then I'd get a 650-750W tier 1/2. Runs cooler/future-proof/peace of mind.

So I presume you did fresh install of windows for your rig, did you DDU the default driver package? Did you update your chipset infs.

If your temps are good then it's power or BIOS/Catalyst CP/software config.

 

[BeN00bly101]

The PSU is on the weak side, if it came with your case or you're unsure it's high efficiency then I'd get a 650-750W tier 1/2. Runs cooler/future-proof/peace of mind.

So I presume you did fresh install of windows for your rig, did you DDU the default driver package? Did you update your chipset infs.

If your temps are good then it's power or BIOS/Catalyst CP/software config.

yeah clean install of windows and drivers, everything. I really hope its not the power because I don't think i have any way of returning it 🙁 I was however weary of how much wattage I was going to get when I was planning it... CRAP :/ Any more causes? I just really hope its not the PSU

 

[chegalhavara]

My bet goes also to the PSU. Anyway you should also try updating your BIOS to the latest version.

 

[BeN00bly101]

My bet goes also to the PSU. Anyway you should also try updating your BIOS to the latest version.

How do you do that?

 

[BeN00bly101]

actually guys is there a way to check how much power the PSU is giving off when gaming, just so we can be sure because if it is then im pretty much screwed...

 

[chegalhavara]

My bet goes also to the PSU. Anyway you should also try updating your BIOS to the latest version.

How do you do that?

You have to go here: https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/support/B150M-BAZOOKA.html#down-bios
download the latest version and update it as shown here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LRyFMf0D9Lc

Btw you need a power meter to really know how much power you are using in real time. something like "Kill-A-Watt"

 

[BeN00bly101]

My bet goes also to the PSU. Anyway you should also try updating your BIOS to the latest version.

How do you do that?

You have to go here: https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/support/B150M-BAZOOKA.html#down-bios
download the latest version and update it as shown here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LRyFMf0D9Lc

Btw you need a power meter to really know how much power you are using in real time. something like "Kill-A-Watt"

Alright im going to update my BIOS now or at least try to.

 

[weberdarren97]

My bet goes also to the PSU. Anyway you should also try updating your BIOS to the latest version.

How do you do that?

You have to go here: https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/support/B150M-BAZOOKA.html#down-bios
download the latest version and update it as shown here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LRyFMf0D9Lc

Btw you need a power meter to really know how much power you are using in real time. something like "Kill-A-Watt"

Alright im going to update my BIOS now or at least try to.

All a Kill-A-Watt will tell you is how much power the PSU is consuming. What you need to know is what voltages it's providing.

Do you have a multimeter? I have a video on how to check your power supply with a multimeter. Do not trust software (HWinfo, AIDA64, etc) to correctly display voltages.

 

[BeN00bly101]

My bet goes also to the PSU. Anyway you should also try updating your BIOS to the latest version.

How do you do that?

You have to go here: https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/support/B150M-BAZOOKA.html#down-bios
download the latest version and update it as shown here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LRyFMf0D9Lc

Btw you need a power meter to really know how much power you are using in real time. something like "Kill-A-Watt"

Alright im going to update my BIOS now or at least try to.

All a Kill-A-Watt will tell you is how much power the PSU is consuming. What you need to know is what voltages it's providing.

Do you have a multimeter? I have a video on how to check your power supply with a multimeter. Do not trust software (HWinfo, AIDA64, etc) to correctly display voltages.

No I don't have any of those unfortunatly :/ I went on http://outervision.com/power-supply-calculator and put in every single piece of hardware exactly in my pc and it says the recommended power wattage is 320 and it recommends the EXACT power supply that I have. Also I know you can't really trust these sites to give an accurate reading but I don't know what else to do :/

 

[LogicBomb31]

Also run HWMoniotor and ensure your +12V/5V/3.3V errors fall within the acceptable ATX tolerance of 5%, I'd be alarmed if they were out more than 2%. A good 12V (where video card is attached) is usually very very close to 12V.

 

[weberdarren97]

Also run HWMoniotor and ensure your +12V/5V/3.3V errors fall within the acceptable ATX tolerance of 5%, I'd be alarmed if they were out more than 2%. A good 12V (where video card is attached) is usually very very close to 12V.

Software voltage readings should not be trusted. They rely on voltage sensors on the PCB, but other things (integrated circuits, MOSFETs, etc) are introducing noise into this circuit and reducing the chances of the voltage that reaches the sensors being the same voltage that the PSU is putting out. Also, there's no guarantee that the sensors are accurate anyways. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fFqdULXCBo0

Also, Outervision is crap. All online PSU calculators are crap. Just add up how much wattage each component draws, add 10% for ICs and other variables and call it a day. If you'd like the PSU to be quiet, buy a higher wattage unit so it doesn't have to work as hard and the fan doesn't have to spin as fast.

If overclocking, add another 15% onto the wattage calculation.

What is the specific model of your power supply? EVGA 500w is not enough information. Also, EVGA does not make a platinum unit that outputs 500w.

Is there a part number on there anywhere? It's usually something like 100-w1-0500.

 

[LogicBomb31]

So true, I only don't trust the reading when they are out of whack, investigate, see what BIOS says, ensure the incorrect value is indeed incorrect then proceed. On the contrary if the readings are good I trust it and leave it.

 

[BeN00bly101]

Also run HWMoniotor and ensure your +12V/5V/3.3V errors fall within the acceptable ATX tolerance of 5%, I'd be alarmed if they were out more than 2%. A good 12V (where video card is attached) is usually very very close to 12V.

Software voltage readings should not be trusted. They rely on voltage sensors on the PCB, but other things (integrated circuits, MOSFETs, etc) are introducing noise into this circuit and reducing the chances of the voltage that reaches the sensors being the same voltage that the PSU is putting out. Also, there's no guarantee that the sensors are accurate anyways. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fFqdULXCBo0

Also, Outervision is crap. All online PSU calculators are crap. Just add up how much wattage each component draws, add 10% for ICs and other variables and call it a day. If you'd like the PSU to be quiet, but a higher wattage unit so it doesn't have to work as hard and the fan doesn't have to spin as fast.

If overclocking, add another 15% onto the wattage calculation.

What is the specific model of your power supply? EVGA 500w is not enough information. Also, EVGA does not make a platinum unit that outputs 500w.

Is there a part number on there anywhere? It's usually something like 100-w1-0500.

Yep I see it on the box its: 100-W1-0500-KR

 

[weberdarren97]

So true, I only don't trust the reading when they are out of whack, investigate, see what BIOS says, ensure the incorrect value is indeed incorrect then proceed. On the contrary if the readings are good I trust it and leave it.

But what if the voltage is too high and the sensors are just not accurate enough to detect it?

Also, BIOS relies on the same sensors. It's going to be just an inaccurate.

Yep I see it on the box its: 100-W1-0500-KR

Very low quality. Please replace. What's your budget for a new unit?

 

[BeN00bly101]

So true, I only don't trust the reading when they are out of whack, investigate, see what BIOS says, ensure the incorrect value is indeed incorrect then proceed. On the contrary if the readings are good I trust it and leave it.

But what if the voltage is too high and the sensors are just not accurate enough to detect it?

Also, BIOS relies on the same sensors. It's going to be just an inaccurate.

Yep I see it on the box its: 100-W1-0500-KR

Very low quality. Please replace. What's your budget for a new unit?

serious? What am I going to do with this one then? its completely new 🙁 Also it doesn't really matter about budget I guess...

 

[LogicBomb31]

Live and learn. Never cheap out on a PSU, I made that mistake too.

Also do some research you will come realize clean stable power is very important.

 

[weberdarren97]

So true, I only don't trust the reading when they are out of whack, investigate, see what BIOS says, ensure the incorrect value is indeed incorrect then proceed. On the contrary if the readings are good I trust it and leave it.

But what if the voltage is too high and the sensors are just not accurate enough to detect it?

Also, BIOS relies on the same sensors. It's going to be just an inaccurate.

Yep I see it on the box its: 100-W1-0500-KR

Very low quality. Please replace. What's your budget for a new unit?

serious? What am I going to do with this one then? its completely new 🙁 Also it doesn't really matter about budget I guess...

Your computer is fine. That PSU is not bad enough to actually damage anything. All you need to do is replace the PSU with a higher quality model.

Compare my recommended units. They're both highly reliable and will definitely increase the stability of your system. The S12II 620w model is the best bang for the buck but is not modular, this means that the cables are not removable. The M12II 520w model is slightly more expensive for the wattage you're getting, but it is fully modular. This means you can remove the cables you're not using and stow them away somewhere where they're out of the way.

 

[BeN00bly101]

So true, I only don't trust the reading when they are out of whack, investigate, see what BIOS says, ensure the incorrect value is indeed incorrect then proceed. On the contrary if the readings are good I trust it and leave it.

But what if the voltage is too high and the sensors are just not accurate enough to detect it?

Also, BIOS relies on the same sensors. It's going to be just an inaccurate.

Yep I see it on the box its: 100-W1-0500-KR

Very low quality. Please replace. What's your budget for a new unit?

serious? What am I going to do with this one then? its completely new 🙁 Also it doesn't really matter about budget I guess...

Your computer is fine. That PSU is not bad enough to actually damage anything. All you need to do is replace the PSU with a higher quality model.

Compare my recommended units. They're both highly reliable and will definitely increase the stability of your system. The S12II 620w model is the best bang for the buck but is not modular, this means that the cables are not removable. The M12II 520w model is slightly more expensive for the wattage you're getting, but it is fully modular. This means you can remove the cables you're not using and stow them away somewhere where they're out of the way.

Im in Australia and I only get things off of Australian websites like PC Case Gear or Umart

 

[weberdarren97]

Live and learn. Never cheap out on a PSU, I made that mistake too.

Also do some research you will come realize clean stable power is very important.

Yes it is, one of my machines (cheaped out on everything on purpose) broke down in less than a month. There was evidence of excessively high voltage seen on the motherboard and graphics card. This consisted of blown caps, scarring across the boards as if there was arcing, etc.

Read the article here.

 

[weberdarren97]

So true, I only don't trust the reading when they are out of whack, investigate, see what BIOS says, ensure the incorrect value is indeed incorrect then proceed. On the contrary if the readings are good I trust it and leave it.

But what if the voltage is too high and the sensors are just not accurate enough to detect it?

Also, BIOS relies on the same sensors. It's going to be just an inaccurate.

Yep I see it on the box its: 100-W1-0500-KR

Very low quality. Please replace. What's your budget for a new unit?

serious? What am I going to do with this one then? its completely new 🙁 Also it doesn't really matter about budget I guess...

Your computer is fine. That PSU is not bad enough to actually damage anything. All you need to do is replace the PSU with a higher quality model.

Compare my recommended units. They're both highly reliable and will definitely increase the stability of your system. The S12II 620w model is the best bang for the buck but is not modular, this means that the cables are not removable. The M12II 520w model is slightly more expensive for the wattage you're getting, but it is fully modular. This means you can remove the cables you're not using and stow them away somewhere where they're out of the way.

Im in Australia and I only get things off of Australian websites like PC Case Gear or Umart

http://au.pcpartpicker.com/product/wrp323/silverstone-strider-plus-500w-80-bronze-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-sst-st50f-pb

 

[BeN00bly101]

So true, I only don't trust the reading when they are out of whack, investigate, see what BIOS says, ensure the incorrect value is indeed incorrect then proceed. On the contrary if the readings are good I trust it and leave it.

But what if the voltage is too high and the sensors are just not accurate enough to detect it?

Also, BIOS relies on the same sensors. It's going to be just an inaccurate.

Yep I see it on the box its: 100-W1-0500-KR

Very low quality. Please replace. What's your budget for a new unit?

serious? What am I going to do with this one then? its completely new 🙁 Also it doesn't really matter about budget I guess...

Your computer is fine. That PSU is not bad enough to actually damage anything. All you need to do is replace the PSU with a higher quality model.

Compare my recommended units. They're both highly reliable and will definitely increase the stability of your system. The S12II 620w model is the best bang for the buck but is not modular, this means that the cables are not removable. The M12II 520w model is slightly more expensive for the wattage you're getting, but it is fully modular. This means you can remove the cables you're not using and stow them away somewhere where they're out of the way.

Im in Australia and I only get things off of Australian websites like PC Case Gear or Umart

http://au.pcpartpicker.com/product/wrp323/silverstone-strider-plus-500w-80-bronze-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-sst-st50f-pb

geez I hope the problem is the power supply if Im going to get another one...