Question Hitachi hard drive just dead heelp!!

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gizzar

Feb 13, 2021
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Hello guys

I came across this site in my search of a solution for a hard drive fix

I have this client that asked me if i could get his data out of his dead hard drive, and i say okay i wanna give it a go!

He told me the drive would not read when pluged in, maybee wrong power connected to it back in the days or something he dont know he cant remember because its a old drive with pictures on it he wants

First i thought it was stuck reader arm, but it was not and everything in there seamed fine, so i started to search and found some videos and info in google that TVS diode can go bad, so i took out the circuit board and started measuring on it, but the thing is i am not sure what readings i should get on the diffrent diodes, fuses, capasitators hope you can help me out here and also maybe find my problem and tell me if its something DIY or its a board replacement and a bios swap?

i am pretty sure i am on the right pass, but this may be out of my range soo need some help please to tell me

i post some pictures of the board and some videos of me measuring on the board, maybe you can tell me what i need to test and what output it have to give, i am pretty sure i am doing something right in locateing the problem but again not sure

or hope somebody out there have a solution

Best regard
Gizzar

Board is a Hitachi 500gb 0A58732 <--- white label number

https://www.hddzone.com/hts545050b9a300-hitachi-pcb-0a58732-p-2400.html <----- this one

Pictures:

https://easyupload.io/g76rtx

https://easyupload.io/yf5qbt

https://easyupload.io/tag1n7

https://easyupload.io/kanzsp

Videos:

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCWZqXfHFmmuh2Xb_KiShItw/videos <---- 3 videos
 
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i connected the drive like you describe here

How Many SATA Cables Will I Need/ To Buy??

Here's my build: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/n8mZGG I've ordered all my parts but I'm just worried I may need to buy some extra SATA data and power cables. The motherboard has already arrived and it came with 2 SATA data cables. I assume I will need 4 SATA data and power cables for my -SSD...
forums.tomshardware.com forums.tomshardware.com
 
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NightHawkRMX said:
Can I see a pic of the pcb, both sides.
Click to expand...

https://ibb.co/PN1F834

https://ibb.co/ysbXHVb

https://ibb.co/6FKrtFK

i can get a picture of the back of the board in 1-2 hours but there is nothing burn marks on the back as i can see or nothing i can see is wrong but what do i know

what i can see on the print board is like in the middel there is 2 semi black spots near the SATA connection but its not on or under the print board is like in between could look like dirt or something i will get a pic of this also

UPDATE: got it here https://ibb.co/DWchb4Z
 
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And the 2 black spots above is like on the yellow line, i mean in between the boards, but i dont know if this means anything as i cant see anything on top or under?

i will take better pic of the back side in 1-2 hours
 
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NightHawkRMX said:
In this photo, the diodes at the top marked D1 and D2 look like the TVS diodes, but I am not 100% sure, fair warning. Ones probably for 5v, the other for 12v.

https://imgbb.com/PN1F834

You can check them for continuity with a multi meter.

If they are bad they will have gone short circuit.

I doubt this is the issue, but since the drive does not seem to power on it could be related.
Click to expand...

i have been wondering that

thats why i ask in here sombody to tell me if i get the correct readings on the diodes

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8NrowyhMqHI

there is also a fuse i dont know about ?? but i dont know what it has to read because if you take some ohm resistors they say like they shorten out and should be normal right ?
 
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NightHawkRMX said:
In this photo, the diodes at the top marked D1 and D2 look like the TVS diodes, but I am not 100% sure, fair warning. Ones probably for 5v, the other for 12v.

https://imgbb.com/PN1F834

You can check them for continuity with a multi meter.

If they are bad they will have gone short circuit.

I doubt this is the issue, but since the drive does not seem to power on it could be related.
Click to expand...


in this picture i dont get any reading on the f1 what so ever regardless of what i set the multimeter to ??? and its all near the circuit power
 
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NightHawkRMX said:
It's dead. Cut your losses.
Click to expand...


What do you base this off?

I found something i need help with could be the problem

HOW TO CHECK A Schottky diode

"Listen for a “beep” or a “buzz” from the multimeter. If the Schottky diode responds as expected, the multimeter will sound a tone. If the multimeter does not sound a tone, the Schottky diode is not functioning correctly."

When i measure on d1 and d2 in countinious mode i dont get any beep and i get the same reading on both 0,94 or something see this video i made

View: https://youtu.be/8NrowyhMqHI


I can clearly measure from one end of the olther on the board and get readings but when i put the black probe on the grond on check connection to (power circuit area) i get shorten out, if i measure the other end of the board i get good readings, soo i think i have narrowed it down to some error arround the Power circuit area near TVS diode 5v and some fuse or capasitator?

check my videos in the topic on youtube

i dont just buy, that is just dead, come on cant we really find the error `?

i really just need a guy to tell me if i get the correct readings on the PCB board on the diodes and fuse or what it is ?
 
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gizzar said:
What do you base this off?
Click to expand...
To recap:

  • his dead hard drive
  • maybee wrong power connected to it back in the days or something he dont know he cant remember
  • open the drive and saw the arm and it looked okay i gently pushed it back from the lock side
  • i have tryed SATA to USB c adapter the standart one it came with no power, then i tryed another USB c cable to the SATA-USB-c adapter
  • this drive was connectet to a print board for SATA power and DATA to USB-C to USB but the cable is a 3way split so USB-C to USB and nother out fra USB-C to A minijack
  • he think it might have been dropped back in the days, running or not he dont know


Is he paying you for this service?
How much time are you planning to invest in this?
 
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USAFRet said:
To recap:

  • his dead hard drive
  • maybee wrong power connected to it back in the days or something he dont know he cant remember
  • open the drive and saw the arm and it looked okay i gently pushed it back from the lock side
  • i have tryed SATA to USB c adapter the standart one it came with no power, then i tryed another USB c cable to the SATA-USB-c adapter
  • this drive was connectet to a print board for SATA power and DATA to USB-C to USB but the cable is a 3way split so USB-C to USB and nother out fra USB-C to A minijack
  • he think it might have been dropped back in the days, running or not he dont know
Is he paying you for this service?
How much time are you planning to invest in this?
Click to expand...

yeah alittle but for me its not the money
i am interessted in this now also for further education, and because i had seen this problem before with hard drives

Really just want to find the error at least, maybee its lost okay, but really wanna find out what caused this

he actually told me to stop or at least dont charge for more time, now there went sport in it for me, so this is for my own sake and not for money now

and i told him everything about send it to recovery data center, and that i dont have any guarantee, and i am not totally specialist in this but wanted to try, and he didnt want to sendt it to data center, soo eveything is agreed on
 
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and if 1 guy out there want to troubleshoot this with mee to see if we cant find the error og fix it, i gladly pay 10-15$ for help and your time

and to your question about how long i will spend on this, i am soon done

my last steps would be, find the problem if possible (and it should be)
tell client what is wrong, tell him solution (new PCB or what so ever)

and if he want i can try buy new PCB go to shop and get the BIOS or whatever swapped, but this is not included in what i am doing now

so for now i just need a guy to tell me if i am getting the right readings on PCB board or maybee tell me where i should search on the board or what else i could do
 
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Or how can i check if the motor in the drive is dead? Or check if the PCB boards takes power? So i can exclude one or the other??

Talk to client, drive worked it got droped og didnt work after

So yeah proberly dead but can i check whats dead ? With multimeter? Or see if the circuit board get its power?
 
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gizzar said:
Or how can i check if the motor in the drive is dead? Or check if the PCB boards takes power? So i can exclude one or the other??

Talk to client, drive worked it got droped og didnt work after

So yeah proberly dead but can i check whats dead ? With multimeter? Or see if the circuit board get its power?
Click to expand...
"it got dropped", then "opened it up"

It is no longer usable as a hard drive. Even if you get it to spin up.
 
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Maybee its done because it got dropped yeah, but i was just checking the heads was i park position i almost didnt touch it,

I didnt do it in a clean room but you can say almost, did it very clean, so i think it should be possible to still get i going, not because it got opened
 
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NightHawkRMX said:
Even microscopic dust not visible to the naked eye can cause damage.
Click to expand...

I am aware of this i also have a 40x microscopic, but lets say little dust landed, i could still startup the drive it would then just make error and bad sectors, i would like to see that :)

Can i somehow check if the PCB board gets its power??? If i plug only the PCB board in the PC i should see something if the board is okay??
 
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gizzar said:
Maybee its done because it got dropped yeah, but i was just checking the heads was i park position i almost didnt touch it,

I didnt do it in a clean room but you can say almost, did it very clean, so i think it should be possible to still get i going, not because it got opened
Click to expand...
  1. In regards to the HDD innards, "almost clean room" = "not clean at all"
  2. Buy an exact replacement PCB, and swap it. See if it runs.
 
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USAFRet said:
  1. In regards to the HDD innards, "almost clean room" = "not clean at all"
  2. Buy an exact replacement PCB, and swap it. See if it runs.
Click to expand...

Not as clean as the right thing true, but i was carefull

Yeah but before i considder that solution, i want to test if this PCB takes power at all, if it is the PCB bord that is the problem how can i test that???
 
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These PCBs have unique calibration data in an NVRAM chip. The PCB firmware (aka "ROM") is in a serial flash memory chip. Both ICs need to be transferred from patient to donor.

This PCB supplier includes a free firmware transfer service:

https://www.hdd-parts.com/13022426.html

The two chips are marked in this photo (larger IC is ROM, smaller is NVRAM):

https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-14437584971410/91711063-6.gif

As I explained to the OP privately, D2 is the 5V TVS diode and D1 is a Schottky rectifier. F1 and F2 are smt fuses. (I'm sorry if this has already been discussed).

The OP tells me that both diodes measure 50 ohms in both directions on the 200 ohms range of a DMM. In my experience this usually points to a fault in the area of the motor controller IC (TLS2505). Hopefully I am wrong and one of the diodes is the culprit.

I would measure the resistance between ground and each of the two inductors ("H" and "A", L1 and L2) near the motor controller. Those are the voltage test points, probably +3.3V and +1.2V. You can use a screw hole as the ground point.

D2 and D1 can both be removed without affecting the function of the circuit.
 
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fzabkar said:
These PCBs have unique calibration data in an NVRAM chip. The PCB firmware (aka "ROM") is in a serial flash memory chip. Both ICs need to be transferred from patient to donor.

This PCB supplier includes a free firmware transfer service:

https://www.hdd-parts.com/13022426.html

The two chips are marked in this photo (larger IC is ROM, smaller is NVRAM):

https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-14437584971410/91711063-6.gif

As I explained to the OP privately, D2 is the 5V TVS diode and D1 is a Schottky rectifier. F1 and F2 are smt fuses. (I'm sorry if this has already been discussed).

The OP tells me that both diodes measure 50 ohms in both directions on the 200 ohms range of a DMM. In my experience this usually points to a fault in the area of the motor controller IC (TLS2505). Hopefully I am wrong and one of the diodes is the culprit.

I would measure the resistance between ground and each of the two inductors ("H" and "A", L1 and L2) near the motor controller. Those are the voltage test points, probably +3.3V and +1.2V.

D2 and D1 can both be removed without affecting the function of the circuit.
Click to expand...

veryyy veryy usefull info thx!!

i will check all you told me here in 1-2 hours max i am going to look at the board there again hopefully you can tell me if i get the correct readings on thoose

maybee point out where i have to measure from and to

any reason i should remove D2 and D1 in this situation ?

and cant i somehow just check if the boards recives power? i mean only plug the circuit board in?
 
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fzabkar said:
These PCBs have unique calibration data in an NVRAM chip. The PCB firmware (aka "ROM") is in a serial flash memory chip. Both ICs need to be transferred from patient to donor.

This PCB supplier includes a free firmware transfer service:

https://www.hdd-parts.com/13022426.html

The two chips are marked in this photo (larger IC is ROM, smaller is NVRAM):

https://sep.yimg.com/ay/yhst-14437584971410/91711063-6.gif

As I explained to the OP privately, D2 is the 5V TVS diode and D1 is a Schottky rectifier. F1 and F2 are smt fuses. (I'm sorry if this has already been discussed).

The OP tells me that both diodes measure 50 ohms in both directions on the 200 ohms range of a DMM. In my experience this usually points to a fault in the area of the motor controller IC (TLS2505). Hopefully I am wrong and one of the diodes is the culprit.

I would measure the resistance between ground and each of the two inductors ("H" and "A", L1 and L2) near the motor controller. Those are the voltage test points, probably +3.3V and +1.2V.

D2 and D1 can both be removed without affecting the function of the circuit.
Click to expand...

and can you check private message because i dont get any reading on F1 at all??
 
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