Question Hitachi hard drive just dead heelp!!

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Feb 13, 2021
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Hello guys

I came across this site in my search of a solution for a hard drive fix

I have this client that asked me if i could get his data out of his dead hard drive, and i say okay i wanna give it a go!

He told me the drive would not read when pluged in, maybee wrong power connected to it back in the days or something he dont know he cant remember because its a old drive with pictures on it he wants

First i thought it was stuck reader arm, but it was not and everything in there seamed fine, so i started to search and found some videos and info in google that TVS diode can go bad, so i took out the circuit board and started measuring on it, but the thing is i am not sure what readings i should get on the diffrent diodes, fuses, capasitators hope you can help me out here and also maybe find my problem and tell me if its something DIY or its a board replacement and a bios swap?

i am pretty sure i am on the right pass, but this may be out of my range soo need some help please to tell me

i post some pictures of the board and some videos of me measuring on the board, maybe you can tell me what i need to test and what output it have to give, i am pretty sure i am doing something right in locateing the problem but again not sure

or hope somebody out there have a solution

Best regard
Gizzar

Board is a Hitachi 500gb 0A58732 <--- white label number

https://www.hddzone.com/hts545050b9a300-hitachi-pcb-0a58732-p-2400.html <----- this one

Pictures:

https://easyupload.io/g76rtx

https://easyupload.io/yf5qbt

https://easyupload.io/tag1n7

https://easyupload.io/kanzsp

Videos:

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCWZqXfHFmmuh2Xb_KiShItw/videos <---- 3 videos
 
If a fuse is open circuit, it has blown

On this picture if i test each individually i get readings on D2 - D1 - 2 yellows - nothing on F2(multimeter show OL) - there is nothing in F1? - havent tested the little black one under F2

so is F2 blown? its also this area i get shorten out on the board please see this video i made and tell me if F2 is blown?

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8NrowyhMqHI


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Fh8jaQNG9Q


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TKjFSsNYMXY


its also arround the power/cable area so maybee we are getting closer?

because the disk dont take power at all
 
Not as clean as the right thing true, but i was carefull

Not remotely clean. "Clean room" doesn't mean that you washed the floors and dusted and were really careful. Clean room means something specific like this.

_aGi-ouFFj7bARf961Fo0CPnXLzs0ymokOF9cQIHsnM-7PjnypR6izgeCfIQhshaD-PlU8N0EIvAFGoK2c3rMlQ1fn-Q4nePAOU70WCeuyyLQVT6jRQsJA8FOL-qNm-K


"Being careful" is about as close to a "clean room" as driving while drinking a quart of whiskey is to safe driving.
 
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Not remotely clean. "Clean room" doesn't mean that you washed the floors and dusted and were really careful. Clean room means something specific like this.

_aGi-ouFFj7bARf961Fo0CPnXLzs0ymokOF9cQIHsnM-7PjnypR6izgeCfIQhshaD-PlU8N0EIvAFGoK2c3rMlQ1fn-Q4nePAOU70WCeuyyLQVT6jRQsJA8FOL-qNm-K


"Being careful" is about as close to a "clean room" as driving while drinking a quart of whiskey is to safe driving.

i know 😀 i was not what i mean by almost

i open it quick and did it under a food bag (sterilised bag for food) so i was carefull

but no fokus on why the drives gets no power at all, we all know its not because a micro dust landed on the plate
 
Okay so i measured further on the board

https://imgbb.com/PN1F834 (THERE IS A BLACK N ON THE F1 FUSE IF THIS TELLS YOU ANYTHING)

In continuous mode:

F1: no reading at all no biip no nothing UPDATE NOW I GET SHORTEN OUT
F2: no fuse here but i get biip here

Little black fuse under F2: i geet biip (but with this reading its also like totching the probes i think because its the start of the print board)

In 200 Ohm range

F1: UPDATE: start at 8!!! and jumps to 3 and stable at 02.7 ??????????
F2(no fuse): nothing

Little black fuse under F2: 0,06 (witch should be very right and good and that means that there is power to this little black fuse BUT SINCE THE NEXT CONNECTION TO THIS IS F1 AND I DONT GET 0,06 OR A BIIP THIS MEANS THIS IS DEAD??)

CAN SOMEBODY CONFIRM THIS ? :)😱

In continuous mode now i get shorten out both ways on F1

and in 200 Ohm range it start on 8 and drops fast to 4 and get stable at 02,7 ????

Seems like the F1 i blown and its to the 5v pins witch the drives runs on only... i am right here???
 
Last edited:
So nodoby can tell me if the F1 fuse is shorten out or blown based of my readings above?

and if so can i just remove it? replace it ? soldering the 2 points efter removeing ?
 
Fuses can be bypassed by shorting across them, but there is a reason the fuse failed to begin with, and bypassing the fuse could cause further damage to the drive and or cause burning.

yeah i am aware of that

by shorting it you mean soldering the ends back together when removes right ?

i thinken about replace it with a new one

but cant we for sure say out of my reading above that this fuse has died?

if i remove it and plug it in a PC its gonna be my really old working pc i dont care about
 
So i am 99% sure i found the error at least one of them

Just testet on other drive on the POWER pins 5V and got good readings in 200k ohm range

Now i did the same to the dead hitachi drive witch only runs on 5V (2,5" HDD) and i gor nothing!

So the circuit board dont revices it power (5V) that explain why i get shorten out of the F1 fuse, and get weird readings, beyond the F1 fuse all other diodes/fuses ect seams good, not get shorten out and get good readings

So i will most likely order new PCB board with firm transfer, and i expect the drive to startup, but i will also expect bad sectors that will prevent me from getting all the data, i am just happy if the drive spins and maybee get 20% data out :) what the hell i learned 200%