Update:
I decided to make my own custom laptop cooler tonight, so I did so -- attached are pictures.
Temperature Without "Homemade" Cooler:
Hard-Drive: 114.8 Degrees Fahrenheit
Temperature With "Homemade" Cooler:
Hard-Drive: 98.4 Degrees Fahrenheit
The only temperature probe I could read through software is the hard-drive -- unfortunantly.
Notice:
The average motherboard USB port supports 500miliamps, or 0.5amps -- while the average 80mm fan draws around 130miliamps. Beware to not exceed the rating limit of the USB port!
My fans are 150miliamp, while my USB port is 500miliamp rated -- therefore I am utilizing 450/500 which is 90%.
What I used to make the cooler:
x1 Plexiglass / Lexan from Lowes (18" x 11")
x1 8" of 1/4" PVC pipe
x4 1/4" PVC End Caps
x3 80mm, 34.5 CFM fans with LED's
x1 USB Extension Cable
x2 22AWG Twist-Tie connectors
x1 Extra-Small Zip-Tie
x10 1/8" self-tapping sheet-metal screws (two for each fan, and one for each end cap)
What to do with the parts:
- Jig-Saw and blade
- Drill and various Drill Bits
- Skill-Saw and blade
- Screw Driver
- PVC Piper Cutting Tool
- Wire Strippers
- Wire Snips
- Razor Blade
- Lighter
What to do with the parts:
Step 1
Take the plexi-glass and measure it to fix your laptop, and then transpose the fan areas on the plexi-glass so you know where to cut.
Take the plexi-glass and use a skill saw to cut it to size, or just etch and break -- depends on how thick it is (mine was thick).
Step 2
Take a drill bit the size of (and a bit bigger) the jig-saw blade and drill on the edge of each fan cutout area.
Take the jig-saw and cut the fan cutout area circle out of the plexi-glass. A word of advice, spray oil or water on the saw and drill as you use them else the friction will produce enough heat the plexi-glass will fuse together again, making the cut almost useless and making a tacky looking cut).
Step 3
Next you are going to want to find the center of your hole for each fan cutout area, and the center of the fan measurements and transpose the edge lines on the plexi-glass so your fans will be on the exact center of the fan cutout holes (just make it look nicer if everything is lined up and added detail).
Use a marker to draw the top and right edges of the new fans on the plexi-glass using the measurements obtained.
Take the drill and a drill bit a bit smaller than your screws and drill a hole through the plexi-glass lined up with the new (to be installed) fan at the upper-right fan screw-hole, and the lower-left fan screw-hole.
Secure all of the fans to position on the plexi-glass using at-least two screws per fan.
Make SURE to pay special attention to the arrows on the fans, and the fan direction of the laptop -- if the fans on your laptop bring air in the bottom (sucking air) then you want to ensure the fans on the cooling plexi-glass are pushing air to them and not pulling -- follow the drift?
Step 4
Take the wires from all of your fans and run them to the center in the exact route you will want them to run; then cut them to length, ensuring you leave a bit of room to strip and splice at the ends.
Take the purchased USB cord and cut the end off (make SURE you LEAVE the USB connection end to plug into the computer).
Strip the wire ciating and shield off of the USB cable near the end you cut, exposing approx. one-inch. You will then need to seperate the metal shielding wires, and cut them with wire snips, and then fold the aluminum shield and burn it away with the lighter.
You now have a RED, BLACK, GREEN and WHITE wire exposed -- cut the GREEN and WHITE wire off at the base, and strip the coating off of the RED and BLACK wires leaving approx. 1/4" of wire exposed.
Do the same for the fan wires, strip the coating off.
Step 5
Now we are ready to attach the USB cable wires to the fan cables using our 22AWG twist tie connectors. Simply attach all RED wires to the RED USB wire, and all BLACK wires to the BLACK USB wire.
Next, route the USB wire to the back of the plexi-glass, shoving a bit of slack between the end of the plexi-glass and the junction area where we connected the wires.
Now make a mark with the marker (to drill two holes) around the USB cable at the back, center of the plexi-glass. Use a larger drill bit that you will be able to fit a zip-tie through so you can secure the USB cable to the plexi-glass, preventing it from accidently being pulled and messing with the junction we just established.
As always "tuck your tails", but not exactly "tails" -- just tuck all of the wires at the junction under the fan guard so they are not in the way. Hopefully if you followed directions you trimmed the wires to the exact length so you don't have any extra and it is tight to the board.
Step 6
We now have the wiring complete for the fans -- next we need to build the stand.
Take the PVC pipe we have and cut it to length -- I cut my pieces all around 1 1/2" long -- you need to cut 4 pieces.
Take the PVC end caps and use a drill bit slightly smaller than your screws to drill through the CENTER of the end cap at a LEVEL angle, and then transpose to 1"x1" from the edge of the plexi-glass at all four corners.
Take a screw and secure the end caps to the plexi-glass, and then take your 1 1/2" long PVC and secure them into the end caps.
You now have a elevated cooling system for your laptop that has positive induction air-flow.
Took a total of 2 hours and 30 minutes to make it.
I decided to make my own custom laptop cooler tonight, so I did so -- attached are pictures.
Temperature Without "Homemade" Cooler:
Hard-Drive: 114.8 Degrees Fahrenheit
Temperature With "Homemade" Cooler:
Hard-Drive: 98.4 Degrees Fahrenheit
The only temperature probe I could read through software is the hard-drive -- unfortunantly.
Notice:
The average motherboard USB port supports 500miliamps, or 0.5amps -- while the average 80mm fan draws around 130miliamps. Beware to not exceed the rating limit of the USB port!
My fans are 150miliamp, while my USB port is 500miliamp rated -- therefore I am utilizing 450/500 which is 90%.
What I used to make the cooler:
x1 Plexiglass / Lexan from Lowes (18" x 11")
x1 8" of 1/4" PVC pipe
x4 1/4" PVC End Caps
x3 80mm, 34.5 CFM fans with LED's
x1 USB Extension Cable
x2 22AWG Twist-Tie connectors
x1 Extra-Small Zip-Tie
x10 1/8" self-tapping sheet-metal screws (two for each fan, and one for each end cap)
What to do with the parts:
- Jig-Saw and blade
- Drill and various Drill Bits
- Skill-Saw and blade
- Screw Driver
- PVC Piper Cutting Tool
- Wire Strippers
- Wire Snips
- Razor Blade
- Lighter
What to do with the parts:
Step 1
Take the plexi-glass and measure it to fix your laptop, and then transpose the fan areas on the plexi-glass so you know where to cut.
Take the plexi-glass and use a skill saw to cut it to size, or just etch and break -- depends on how thick it is (mine was thick).
Step 2
Take a drill bit the size of (and a bit bigger) the jig-saw blade and drill on the edge of each fan cutout area.
Take the jig-saw and cut the fan cutout area circle out of the plexi-glass. A word of advice, spray oil or water on the saw and drill as you use them else the friction will produce enough heat the plexi-glass will fuse together again, making the cut almost useless and making a tacky looking cut).
Step 3
Next you are going to want to find the center of your hole for each fan cutout area, and the center of the fan measurements and transpose the edge lines on the plexi-glass so your fans will be on the exact center of the fan cutout holes (just make it look nicer if everything is lined up and added detail).
Use a marker to draw the top and right edges of the new fans on the plexi-glass using the measurements obtained.
Take the drill and a drill bit a bit smaller than your screws and drill a hole through the plexi-glass lined up with the new (to be installed) fan at the upper-right fan screw-hole, and the lower-left fan screw-hole.
Secure all of the fans to position on the plexi-glass using at-least two screws per fan.
Make SURE to pay special attention to the arrows on the fans, and the fan direction of the laptop -- if the fans on your laptop bring air in the bottom (sucking air) then you want to ensure the fans on the cooling plexi-glass are pushing air to them and not pulling -- follow the drift?
Step 4
Take the wires from all of your fans and run them to the center in the exact route you will want them to run; then cut them to length, ensuring you leave a bit of room to strip and splice at the ends.
Take the purchased USB cord and cut the end off (make SURE you LEAVE the USB connection end to plug into the computer).
Strip the wire ciating and shield off of the USB cable near the end you cut, exposing approx. one-inch. You will then need to seperate the metal shielding wires, and cut them with wire snips, and then fold the aluminum shield and burn it away with the lighter.
You now have a RED, BLACK, GREEN and WHITE wire exposed -- cut the GREEN and WHITE wire off at the base, and strip the coating off of the RED and BLACK wires leaving approx. 1/4" of wire exposed.
Do the same for the fan wires, strip the coating off.
Step 5
Now we are ready to attach the USB cable wires to the fan cables using our 22AWG twist tie connectors. Simply attach all RED wires to the RED USB wire, and all BLACK wires to the BLACK USB wire.
Next, route the USB wire to the back of the plexi-glass, shoving a bit of slack between the end of the plexi-glass and the junction area where we connected the wires.
Now make a mark with the marker (to drill two holes) around the USB cable at the back, center of the plexi-glass. Use a larger drill bit that you will be able to fit a zip-tie through so you can secure the USB cable to the plexi-glass, preventing it from accidently being pulled and messing with the junction we just established.
As always "tuck your tails", but not exactly "tails" -- just tuck all of the wires at the junction under the fan guard so they are not in the way. Hopefully if you followed directions you trimmed the wires to the exact length so you don't have any extra and it is tight to the board.
Step 6
We now have the wiring complete for the fans -- next we need to build the stand.
Take the PVC pipe we have and cut it to length -- I cut my pieces all around 1 1/2" long -- you need to cut 4 pieces.
Take the PVC end caps and use a drill bit slightly smaller than your screws to drill through the CENTER of the end cap at a LEVEL angle, and then transpose to 1"x1" from the edge of the plexi-glass at all four corners.
Take a screw and secure the end caps to the plexi-glass, and then take your 1 1/2" long PVC and secure them into the end caps.
You now have a elevated cooling system for your laptop that has positive induction air-flow.
Took a total of 2 hours and 30 minutes to make it.