Question How to drain & refill custom loop with no drain valve or fill port?

Masohas

Prominent
Nov 27, 2023
3
0
510
Hey everyone!

Some time ago I bought a used PC with a custom loop cooling system, and now I’d like to change the coolant. Unfortunately, most tutorials on YouTube show how to do it when you have a drain valve and a top fill port.

As far as I can tell, I don’t have either of those — or maybe I’m just blind (or an idiot 😅). I’d really appreciate any advice on how to safely drain the old liquid and refill the system without damaging anything.

Custom loop Barrow

Thanks in advance for your help!


Image
 
1| Tilt the case onto the side so the port on the reservoir has the air pocket, attach a fitting with a length of tubing to the reservoir's unused port, then tilt the case right side up and let the fluid drain.
or
2| Disassemble the watercooling components without disconnecting the tubing. Once it's all outside of the case, you detach the tubing from the components and drain into a bucket.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Masohas
From what I found, Barrow is a firm that sells many types of liquid-cooled systems. What many people call a "custom loop" system is really assembled from several separate components that the user chooses and assembles. Typically such systems have a separate water tank with removable top for easy cleaning and refill, plus tubing, radiator/fans, a pump and a waterblock fastened over the CPU chip. Your photos show such a system, with the pump and waterblock on the CPU as one combined unit.

The real tricky part of this is how to open the system and flush it thoroughly, then refill without spreading water all over everything, So you need to figure that out. To start, if you can dismount and remove partially the TANK unit without disconnecting anything, maybe you can get that outside the case to begin. Next, remove that screw plug on the side of the tank bottom to drain. When mostly drained, you can disconnect the two hoses at top and bottom of that tank. For the hose clamps shown this can be relatively simple with a pair of pliers and a screwdriver. Start with the hose on top of the tank. See that each clamp is ring whose end was slipped through a loop and then bent up? You do NOT try to un-bend. Just take the pliers and open the jaws so that they span across that area. One jaw is outside the loop part, and the other outside the bent-up end. Squeeze the pliers so that the bent-up end moves back against the loop. This expands the entire loop to loosen it. Now gently slide that entire clamp along the hose back away from the hose end about an inch until it is off the clamping area. To do this you MAY need the screwdriver to help push it. Now use the screwdriver again to push the open END of the hose away from the tank body and off the end of the hose fitting neck. Presto! Watch out for leaks!Repeat for the hose at the tank bottom, again watching for leaking. With those two hoses detached you have the entire tank free from the system for flushing and cleaning. You can make temporary connections to the two hose ends to force flushing fluid through the rest of the system.

Doing all this will end up filling your system with plain water for flushing. But you want to refill with a particular mixture of a new fluid. Maybe you buy a pre-mixed solution, or maybe you buy some concentrated additive and mix your own with water - whatever. But BEFORE you try to refill, do what you can with air to blow flushing water out of your system so it is almost empty.

Refilling will take a few steps. Start by re-connecting the BOTTOM hose to the tank. Just slip the hose end onto the neck. Use the pliers to re-open the clamp and slide that up to the hose end, then release the pliers to let the clamp close down tight. Re-install the drain plug. Fill the tank with new fluid mix. Connect a spare piece of hose to the top tank fitting, and ensure the disconnected normal top hose open end is over some small container to catch extra fluid. Try to blow the new fluid up around the system to fill it. If the tamk gpoes empty, refill and continue until you get fluid escaping from that loose top hose end. Refill the tank until it is ALMOST full with some air space at top. Now re-connect the normal top hose and re-mount the tank into the case so everything is back to normal.

Make SURE all connections are secure. Start up your system and WATCH immediately for signs of leaks that MUST be fixed. Let your system run and watch the tank fluid level. IF there are still air bubbles in the system, circulation will move them to the tank top and its level will drop. If that happens, you may need to disconnect the tank top hose and top up the system. When all loooks good, try your system and watch the CPU temperture info over normal workloads. If that temp goes too high, or if the rad fans start running much faster than was "normal", you may still have an air bubble in your system that needs to move to the tank by tilting your entire system while running. If that happens, you might need to top up the tank again.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Masohas