How to merge partitions back onto drive.

yomamaisonfier

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Jan 5, 2013
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I just got a new hard drive, reinstalled Windows, and have gotten all the files I want off of my old hard drive. Now I want to format it and use it for something else. However, when I go to format it, I realize that it's only going to format that piece of it. When I got this computer with it's hard drive in it, it had two partitions; One recovery, and one unnamed, odd partition. See picture:
b77ca636e8.png

As you can see, I have my new hard drive in (named "Main Hard Drive") my second hard drive (named "2nd Hard Drive") and my old hard drive I got with the computer (named "Old Hard Drive" ). I would like to format my old hard drive and have it just be a blank, empty drive that I can put whatever in, like my 2nd hard drive is currently. I don't want partitions, I want all my GBs 😀
Clearly formatting the drive will only format the main, largest partition. Is there any way to merge the other two partitions into the main one? And thank you for all who help :)
 
Solution
First, I just want to be sure about something: you do NOT want to save ANYTHING from that old HDD, right? Because my suggestion will destroy all its old data and apps.

I think this is what has happened: Windows often protects itself from user mistakes by refusing to Format a Partition or even Delete any Partition from a HDD that is bootable and contains Windows OS. But there are other ways to do this with third-party utilities.

As an additional thought, my preference when preparing to re-use older HDD's is to wipe it completely clean AND force a thorough self-diagnosis of the drive unit. The best way to do this is to Zero-Fill the old HDD. This writes all zeroes to every sector of the drive. Each such write also triggers an internal...


That sounds simple enough, however...
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I've been doing this quite frequently lately with old drives. Open a command prompt as administrator and type DISKPART then type LIST DISK. You'll see a list of drives. Type SELECT DISK followed by the number of the drive you want to get rid of the partition on. Then type CLEAN. Now you can initialize and format the drive using the disk utility you were trying at first.
 


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And yes, I did run it as admin. 😛
The drive has disappeared from My Computer and still has partitions in Disk Management.
 
First, I just want to be sure about something: you do NOT want to save ANYTHING from that old HDD, right? Because my suggestion will destroy all its old data and apps.

I think this is what has happened: Windows often protects itself from user mistakes by refusing to Format a Partition or even Delete any Partition from a HDD that is bootable and contains Windows OS. But there are other ways to do this with third-party utilities.

As an additional thought, my preference when preparing to re-use older HDD's is to wipe it completely clean AND force a thorough self-diagnosis of the drive unit. The best way to do this is to Zero-Fill the old HDD. This writes all zeroes to every sector of the drive. Each such write also triggers an internal self-diagnosis process that re-reads the Sector and analyzes the quality of the signal. If the signal is weak in any way, the drive treats that as a warning of future failure. So it retires that Sector, and replaces it from a stock of known-good spares. When it is finished the entire operation (takes hours!) there is NO "Bad Sector" on the HDD that any OS could gain access to and use, so the HDD appears perfect to Windows. This is a normal background process that Windows (or any other OS) does not know about, but it is supposed to happen all the time during normal use. But just in case that has missed something in the past (say, a Sector went bad but nothing tried to read from it later), this Zero-Fill process will force EVERY Sector to be examined as it is wiped clean of old data.

In a linked step, the HDD's on-board SMART system does many things to monitor the unit, including keeping track of how many Sectors have been replaced as suspect. Eventually it hits a limit and sends out a warning that many replacements have been made. This foretells two things: (a) the stock of spare good Sectors is getting low, and this cannot continue forever; and (b) since so many Sectors have been found "bad", the projection is that this will continue to happen at an increasing pace. For both those reasons, THIS is the time to back up your HDD completely and replace it while you still CAN read all its data. So, IF you get a SMART warning of failure in the near future after doing the Zero Fill, just replace the drive. If not, use it in full confidence that it has no significant problems.

Now, how to do that? Check which manufacturer made the drive. There are third-party utility packages you can buy or download for free that will do a Zero Fill. But the handiest source may be your drive's manufacturer's website - the "trick" is, their utilities are specially coded to work mostly on their HDD's and not others. So if your old HDD is from Seagate, download their Seatools diagnostic utility. IF it's from WD, get their Data LifeGuard utility. (Other makers may have similar diagnostic utility suites.) Each of these has many tools to test and fix (in some cases) their HDD units, and include the Zero Fill tool. Each also comes in several forms - a "for DOS" version and a Windows app, for example. Personally, I prefer the "for DOS" versions because they are used as bootable CD's that install their own mini-DOs and let you work with NO functioning HDD in your computer - you do NOT need any OS or working HDD to use this tool, so it can help even in tough situations when your OS cannot deal with the troubled HDD. The "trick" requirement, however, is that the "for DOS" versions actually download as an .iso file. This is just an image of the CD you need to burn yourself. So you need a CD-R disk and writer and a CD burning utility like Nero that can burn the .iso image to the CD-R. Once you have that CD made, you place it in your optical drive. Power on and go immediately into BIOS Setup and set your Boot Priority Sequence. Make the optical drive the first boot device, and the normal C: HDD your second one. SAVE and EXIT and the machine will boot from the CD. It will load its own mini-DOS and ask you to specify which HDD unit you want to work on. Make sure you get that right! It will show you some info on the HDD, including a readout of the SMART data it has. Then you get a menu of tests and tools to use on that unit. Many of the regular tests do NOT destroy any data. BUT some tools do, and they will warn you of that and require confirmation that you do wish to proceed. In your case, the Zero Fill tool will be like that - it DOES destroy all the old stuff on the HDD so you must confirm. Then wait patiently. When it's done, check the new SMART info to ensure there are no important warnings.

There is no simple exit from this utility. You should remove the CD from your optical drive and reboot - it will boot normally with no CD in the optical drive. Now you can go into Disk Management to find the old HDD completely empty like a new unit. RIGHT-click on its Unallocated Space and choose to Create a New Simple Volume (Win 7 or 8), or Initialize (later versions of XP, etc.). You can specify the size of the Partition (I assume you'll want to make one Partition that uses the entire HDD). You probably should make this NOT bootable, since it is to be used only for data (no OS installed on it). For Formatting options, use the NTFS File System (default) but you don't need to do a Full Format. Full tests every Sector and takes a long time, but you just did that with the Zero Fill operation. Just use a Quick Format.

 
Solution


My HDD that came with my computer is a Seagate. I downloaded their "SeaTools" program, but I see nothing anywhere about any "Zero Fill" option. I'll try the DOS version.
 
I did the full erase. Now my computer says there is no drive to boot from. Going to look more into it...

EDIT: upon putting in a copy of Windows, I can see that my 3 drives are still there, with my main and 2nd hard drive saying they have their respected free space. And that my old hard drive, is empty. This is confusing. Why am I unable to boot now? This process took a very long time (about 5 hours) and it's 4am. I'm using my phone to do this, and I'm going to go to bed and try to deal with this later. At this point, any and everyone's help will be extremely appreciated.

EDIT 2: I don't know if this could have anything to do with it, but I used to have it to where it would ask me which Windows to boot into every time I started up my computer, in case I needed to boot into the other drive for something.
 
I appears your computer is trying to boot from the wrong place. Two possibilities: (a) it reset itself to some default setting that is wrong; or, (b) when you set the Boot Priority Sequence, you did not tell it to go to the proper HDD as the second choice. Either way, the fix is the same.

Power on and go immediately into BIOS Setup. Check that all three HDD's are detected properly. Now go to where you set the Boot Priority Sequence. I suggest you set the optical drive as the first choice, and the HDD that has your Windows OS installed on it as your second choice. Maybe you could set the "2nd Hard Drive" as a third choice. The list should NOT include any HDD that you will never boot from, such as the old (now blank) one you will only store data on. Make sure to SAVE and EXIT, and the machine should boot properly.

I set my machine up in this fashion for the following reason. On rare occasions I want to boot from the optical drive if I'm doing diagnostics or something that avoid using the normal OS. To do that I place a bootable CD (like the Seatools for DOS disk) in that drive and boot from it. On all other occasions I just leave the optical drive empty, and the machine checks it, sees there is no bootable disk in it, and jumps down to the second choice and boots from there. However, if you decide you would rather not try the optical drive unless you specifically use BIOS to set it up, just do NOT put that unit as the first choice of boot device. Make your first choice your normal boot HDD.
 
I already tried that. That was my first guess as the problem, and that's what I did, was try to boot from the drive using boot options. It still doesn't work, I didn't change any boot settings when I used the disk, I just selected it during startup.
 
Are you sure you wiped clean only the OLD HDD?

You say, "upon putting in a copy of Windows, I can see that my 3 drives are still there, with my main and 2nd hard drive saying they have their respected free space. And that my old hard drive, is empty." From that I understand some version of Windows was used to look at the storage devices. I don't understand how you got a "copy of Windows" running on your computer that cannot boot from its hard drives.

You say the old HDD shows as "empty". What tells you that? You also say the other two HDD's show they "have their respected free space." Now, "Free Space" has a specific meaning in My Computer. On a HDD there is a total amount of storage space available in any "drive" (Partition on a HDD) - for example, 930 Gb on a so-called "1 TB HDD". Then, after deducting the space already occupied by files stored on it, the remainder currently unused and available for new files is called "Free Space". Is that what you meant by using that phrase? Because I'd be interested to know how you got the number for "Free Space", and whether it matches what you already knew about the unused space available on those two drives. If they really do have the correct amount of Free Space, that means their previously-stored files are still there.

I sincerely hope you are not seeing some display of the HDD units that show "Unallocated Space" that matches the entire capacity of each drive unit!
 
Sorry I didn't elaborate. By "copy of windows" I mean a disk to install Windows 7 with. When you go to install windows, it shows all the hard drives plugged in, their total space, and their free space. It said my 2 HDDs (main and 2nd) have their respected free spaces, as in, they aren't even close to empty. (for example, my main is 930GB total, and it has 260GB free) And my old hard drive is empty saying "930GB total, 930GB free."
 
OK, that helps. However, a I did not think a Windows Install disk would tell you about the Free Space on a "disk" (Partition) on a HDD unit. Maybe I'm wrong there.

Is it possible for you to remove the Main and 2nd HDD units from your machine and temporarily connect them into another machine, one at a time? If you can, each should show up in My Computer with all its files in place and accessible. That would prove that those HDD units are OK.

The other path I suggest is this:
1. Disconnect all hard drives in your machine. Power on and go into BIOS Setup and go to where you set the Boot Priority Sequence. You should have only one choice available - your optical drive - so set that as your only boot device. Make sure there is no CD in the optical drive. SAVE and EXIT, and the machine should fail to boot, giving you a message there is no bootable drive. This will completely re-set the BIOS's records of what boot devices exist where.
2. Now reconnect ONLY your "Main Drive" to its original port. Power on and go directly into BIOS Setup. Go to where you set the Boot Priority Sequence and make sure it will boot from that drive. (Your choice whether you want to have it boot from the optical unit first and the HDD second, or just from the HDD.) SAVE and EXIT and the system should be able to boot cleanly. Shut down. This will re-establish in BIOS's records where that HDD is located so it can find and boot from it.
3. Assuming that worked, now reconnect the "2nd Drive" to its former port and boot up. Again, go into BIOS Setup and check the Boot Priority Sequence settings. I gather that you used to have it set up so that either of these two HDD units could be used to boot. So, set this "2nd Drive" as your last choice for a boot device. SAVE and EXIT. It should still boot, only this time you should be able to see and use BOTH your drives as you used to. Shut down.
4. Do not change the connections for those two drives. Now connect the "old drive" to a third port and power up. Again, go into BIOS Setup and Boot Priority Sequence. Make sure your previous settings are still there - (maybe the optical drive), the Main Drive, then the 2nd Drive - and NO mention of trying to use your "old drive" as a boot device. If you have to change anything, remember to SAVE and EXIT. It should boot up properly and let you see and use your two previous drives. But I expect the "old drive" will NOT show up in My Computer. Does it work?
5. If that all works, now you can use Windows' Disk Management to go to the empty "Old Drive", RIGHT-click on its Unallocated Space, and choose to Create a New Simple Volume. This does NOT need to be bootable, but all the other default settings should be right. When it's done, back out of Disk Management and reboot to update Windows' Registry files. It should boot and show you all three drives in My Computer.
 
I did your step 1 then 2, and I got this screen with just my main hard drive in:
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So, I guess it "needs" that old windows the be there in order to boot (which is a stupid flaw might I add). If I understand correctly, using the disk to repair windows will erase the drive. So I guess I will have to do my last ditch solution: install another windows on to my old hard drive, copy everything I need to it from my new one, then reinstall (or "repair") it and copy it all back over. What a friggin hassle to just format a simple hard drive I didn't want to use....
 
UPDATE: So I finally fixed the problem. And it was much too simple of a fix. All I needed to do was put the install disk back in and hit repair. It took literally about half a second, then booted into my drive. Fantastic. All that wasted time for such a simple thing. Thank you Paperdoc for the help, your solution was perfectly fine, I was just too cautious and Google sucks sometimes.
 
Just putting in my 2 cents. I use a software called AOMEI Partition. You can do anything from merging partitions, add partitions, delete partitions, convert a partition from NTFS to FAT32 without formatting the partition or drive. Create a bootable hard drive using a built in Windows To Go Creator, and many more things. Plus it's free.